 When falling a tree, an effective plan, properly executed, will be beneficial in getting the tree to fall where you want and protect yourself and others around you. Based on the information that I looked at at this tree, I looked for overhead hazards and surrounding hazards. I've determined the lean to be forward and to the right. My scaper up is going to be off in that direction. Based on the size and shape of this tree, I've determined that the length of the hinge is going to be about 12 inches. The width of the hinge is going to be about an inch and a quarter. My back cut plan, because the tree leans to this side, I'm going to do my back cut standing on this side. I'm also going to do a plunge cut or a bore cut to establish my back cut. In doing that, I'll plunge the saw through the tree. It'll come out this side. I'll cut forward to establish my hinge. I'll cut to the back and leave about an inch and a half to two inches of wood holding in the back. I'll place a wedge in this side, make my release cut, and escape. To get the tree to fall where I want it to fall, I'm going to use an open-face notch, which means the opening of the notch is 70 degrees or greater. I'm going to establish that cut by first doing the sloping cut. When I'm doing that cut, I'm also establishing the direction I'd like the tree to fall. When I finish that cut, I'll stop and check the aim and make sure it's proper. If I need to change it, I'll do the changing at that time. I'll make another cut to re-aim the tree. The second cut of the notch is the undercut or the sloping cut, or the horizontal cut, is the second cut of the notch. I'm going to put the saw up against the tree and pivot it in. When I turn my body, I'll be able to see all the way across inside the very first cut that I made. Tree falling! I need to know the reactive forces of the saw chain on the guide bar. When I'm cutting with the top of the bar, the saw is pushed back towards me, so this is a push force. When I cut with the bottom of the bar, the saw is pulled away from me, so this is pull. The upper corner of the guide bar tip is a kickback corner. You never want to start a cut or use that part of the tip to establish our cutting. The bottom part of the tip we could plunge or bore cut with and cut with, and there's very little difference between the two, so when I start my plunge cut, I'm going to start with the bottom part of the tip with the saw at full throttle. In our initial plan, we wanted to establish a hinge that's about 12 inches long based on the size of the tree, and this wedge is 12 inches, and as you can see, we're at 12 inches, so we can continue on with our cutting. When I start my back cut, I want to be able to see all the way across the notch, so as I don't cut the hinge off. When I start my back, my plunge cut, I'm going to bore in, and I'm going to push the saw through the tree and come out over in this corner, and not try to establish the inch and a quarter hinge on the very first cut. About an inch to an inch and a half. At this point, I can take a look around and make sure that nobody's entered the cutting area and give another yell, a warning shout if I need to. Down the hill! We should come back and look at our stump and evaluate how well we did to our establish. We wanted the 12 inch hinge, which we already checked. We wanted an inch and a quarter hinge, which we've established, and our back cut is level. With an open-faced notch, I can create my back cut at the point where the notch cuts meet above or even below. I hope this helps you to be more effective and safer in tree filming.