 Hello boys and girls, welcome to part 9 of the EJ25 build, getting closer the engine looks almost complete. This time I get to install partially the Get-A-Dumb, Dumb for Dominic, cylinder for cooling mod, also the flywheel clutch pressure plate, the pilot bearing gets installed on the flywheel, after all that the engine will be ready to go back to where it belongs. So as usual guys, subscribe, like, comment and enjoy the video. I can also install the blow-off valve which actually connects to the turbo inlet pipe, something like this. Make sure you position the clamp in a way so up in this case so it's easy to access. All right one less thing before the engine goes back to its home, reinstall this oil line. Okay this is a 14 and the torque is 11.8, I'm gonna do 12. That's the outlet for the oil and that's the coolant, not sure if that's the outlet or the inlet. I'm gonna spin these on here, I will be torquing these down once we get it off the stand. Nearly forgot, I'm also gonna install a Get-A-Dumb mod, basically what it is. It's a reliability mod, cylinder four always runs hotter on the EJ25 engines, so what this guy, Dominic, figured out. You take this plug out, this is the driver's side, take this plug out, it's the back of the cylinder head. I'm gonna clean this off and we'll be right back. All right basically what this mod does is it lets hot coolant escape out of the driver's side cylinder head, which is, this side is the cylinder four, which is always problematic if you are watching the engine teardown videos, the number four piston, the ring end on the number four piston broke. So it's always number four on these EJ25 engines. Anyways what you do is you basically screw this in right here and you tap in into the heater core outlet hose. So I figured I'm gonna install this line first, kind of tie it up here so it's out of my way and then there's gonna be a T connector that's gonna install here and one of these, not sure which one is the outlet and I'm gonna basically cut it and install the T in here and that's gonna let the hot coolant escape out of cylinder four and back into the system, back into the water pump. All right, RTV, I did clean the threads a little bit more, don't be afraid, just try whenever you're cleaning stuff like this and you're afraid it may fall in, just be careful so the dirt, RTV, whatever ends up on the thread, then what you do, obviously you need compressed air, stick it inside and blow, this will blow everything out. All right, so I'm gonna apply RTV on the last thread, that should be a good one inch, exactly. So don't know the torque, this thing anyway, it comes with pretty good directions, I just found out. So yeah, so no torque provided, obviously you wouldn't be able to torque it down the way it is, but since the fitting is aluminum, I'm just gonna apply the German torque which is good and tight. So we're gonna continue with this mod once the engine is inside the engine bay, for now I'm just gonna tuck it in here and just leave it like that. I should probably install the spark plugs to end coils, so about spark plugs, let's take a look at the old ones, they do look good, the iridium plugs they supposedly they last 100,000 but I don't recommend waiting that long, but but anyways I could put these back, just clean them up a bit and put them back, but I did get new ones, same exact ones, with a gap of 0.03 which is the same, mainly for one reason, if you know there's gonna be issues, what not, if the engine won't be running smoothly, I will be able to tell by looking at spark plugs, after it runs a little bit, I can take one out or all of them and look at them, and from the looks of a spark plug you can tell if the engine runs lean, rich or whatever if there's issues, I'm sure the tuner can figure that out too, but I mean that's basically my opinion, it's better to put new ones in, these are already dirty, obviously if there will be something wrong, most likely you would not be able to tell, so I am gonna, although they are pre-gapped, I am going to recheck for gap all four, and to check a gap, you need one of these or similar, without any force, there you go, I did not change a thing, 0.03, these torque down to 15, I should probably mention I won't be installing the purge valve for emissions, so no emissions at all, shh, don't tell Greta, I'm sure you've just noticed the chains I attached to the engine, I'm gonna show that later, and before I get the engine off the stand and onto the crane, or hoist crane, let's take care of the flywheel, as you can see this is the Exedy racing lightweight flywheel, I forget what the weight of this thing was, but this did get sent out to the machine shop for balancing, and as you can see right here, now I'm not sure if this is the machine shop work, or this is at the factory, I don't know if they balance it at the factory, I mean it kind of looks like they do, I don't know, but I'm gonna clean this off, it is kind of greasy, clean this surface off real good, this is where the clutch plate touches the flywheel, so we're gonna clean this off, first what we're gonna do, I'm gonna install this pilot bearing, which goes right in here, all right using a 24mm socket with the flat part, what we gotta do is drive it in, now just remember the bearing needs to be flush with the flywheel on the inside where the clutch plate goes, let me show you what I mean, so this is your factory one, you see how flush it is, so this is pretty much it, just flush on the inside of the flywheel, I'm gonna do this on the floor, so this surface is actually bigger than the actual bearing, which I don't have to really worry about driving the bearing too far in, because the socket will hit the flywheel first, there this should be good nice and flush, if you do drive it in too far in, I checked it's a 22mm but a impact socket, it's a little bit fatter, but whatever fits in here, just to make sure you don't hit the race, you hit the outside bearing, the most outside edge of the bearing, now the reason why I'm gonna clean this, I don't want any grease on the flywheel, is because so the clutch material, the little, the powder that it creates as you drive, it won't stick to the flywheel, I'm gonna just spray a little bit of primer, just to prevent this is bare metal, I don't want this to rust, that's it, all right so let me show you what's going on, so basically this chain right here, that's the one that's holding most of the weight, this second one is kind of a extra support slash safety, and I've used this AC bracket and this bolt here that connects to the cylinder head, okay the reason why I made this so long, so the chain doesn't hit, well it does, it is resting slightly on the bolt from the TGV and maybe a little bit on the turbo but not really mostly on the TGV here, which is not an issue, you know, see I can still move it so, and this one just found bolts, drove it into the block right here, so now I'm just gonna disconnect the stand and hopefully it will stay level, you want it level, well it's not ideal, I think it should be good, okay time for the flywheel, so make sure the surface of on the back of the crank is clean, super clean in fact, if you're reusing your old bolts make sure they are clean, clean on the threads, on the bolts and on the crank, now if you see there's a little dot and there's a dot on the flywheel, these do not align with each other, okay so I'm just gonna make sure, okay now these bolts get red glue, okay this is what you gotta do, torque is for the STI is 55.3 and this is the sequence, just use your imagination how to lock up the flywheel, all right number one, okay so the part that's sticking out on the clutch plate goes towards the transmission, so we're gonna slide the alignment tool through the clutch plate, alignment tool goes inside the pilot bearing, like so, stay, no glue on these, they do have lock washers, I am reusing my old ones, before you start tightening these up, move this around, kind of make sure that it's, the clutch plate is in the middle, force to force one or even tighten up any of them all the way in, look at the gap, still, that's all around the plate, so you don't want to end up bending this in any way, you probably, probably wouldn't, I mean this is thick stuff over here but just keep going round and round until it touches the flywheel, okay torque for these is 11.8 and now what I'm gonna do is just, just go, just like the flywheel, just go across, one, two, three, four, you know, okay so this thing is actually ready to go in, I think, you check this out, I did a a refresh of the crossmember here, had some rust spots here and there, you can kind of see the imperfection in the paint, maybe yeah right here, what I did was I took a wire brush and I cleaned out the rust, not fully, just the loose rust, then I sprayed it with, with this rust reformer, turns the rust into black primer, two coats of that stuff and then two coats of paint and primer in one can, just a cheap quick way to kind of slow down the oxidation process, looks all right, should last a bit longer, but we're here because I already installed a throat bearing in here, as you can see, basically it just slides in, you want to use a little bit of grease between the shaft, whatever this shaft is called, transmission shaft, whatever, anyways, then you are dropping the fork, so you know the grease is so, because this slide, as you're pushing the clutch, this actually slides back and forth, so and this, there's a groove in here right there, this will pop in right onto this ring, right here, now to make that fork stay in one spot, I'm going to install this pin, I'm going to use a little bit of white lithium grease on here on the surface, here we go and using a 10 mil bolt, this thing is threaded, I'm going to reinstall the pin, see there's a pin right here, it's going across, it sits horizontally so got to spin this pin so it goes, so the pin goes inside this big pin here, just like that and that's it, I'm going to leave that in there, the 10 mil bolt, in case I got a whatever, so we're going to leave it like that