 you guys if you are just joining us this is episode two of our sew-along formic calls eight two one eight this little knit jumpsuit today we are going to be making and sewing the bodice very exciting i am making the view that has the waist ties like the model is wearing so that's what i will be providing instruction for before we jump in like this video so other people will find it subscribe and click the notification bell if you want to be notified every time a video is added to this sew-along i have also linked the rest of the videos in this sew-along right up here so if you've missed the other two i would recommend going back and watching them if you're new here i'm lindsay welcome i'm happy that you are going on this sew-along journey with us i post videos about sewing all the time and do one of these sew-alongs four times a year also this sew-along is kindly sponsored by eliso i will be talking about them a little bit later in the video all right let's get into it we're gonna head to this cutting table and i will talk you through the steps of sewing the bodice all right so first things first let me show you a little trick that i like to do with all of my linings now this goes for knit linings or for woven linings i brought out the bodice back and the over back so you could see kind of what i'm talking about here but you line up the center front you can see that the edges of the over back and the back all line up they're the exact same so when we go to sew these together and turn it toward the inside you that seam is supposed to lay right along the edge of the garment and because i'm using different fabrics for the lining than i am for the outer there's a good chance you would be able to see my lining fabric from the right side of the garment and i want to make sure that doesn't happen so what i do is i take the lining which is actually the bodice back and i trim off ever so slightly a scant one eighth of an inch and when these two pieces when this one is smaller than this one are sewn together that seam is going to roll into the inside of the garment by like a sixteenth of an inch very very subtly and will not be seen from the right side take a rotary cutter and just very very carefully cut off that one eighth of an inch all right so now that i have that prepared we are going to apply our interfacing and as i discussed in the i think it was episode zero we're interfacing must stretch i mean this neckline is pretty open because we've got the deep v in the front in the back but if you're like me and your pear shape and you've got you know much wider hips than your shoulders you need to be able to stretch this garment so i absolutely love the thermo web all bias stretch interfacing this is iron on interfacing that stretches in all four directions it stretches more in one direction than another but it does stretch in all four directions as you can see and still has decent recovery so it still bounces back to where it came from this you can buy most like heat and bond and thermo web it's all the same company you can buy most of their products at like a joanne or a hobby lobby or even at michael's but i think that the all bias stretch you have to buy from their website they only sell it there but you guys it's a hundred percent worth it whenever you're sewing truly any knit garment that needs a facing but especially something like a jumpsuit where you need the opening or wherever you apply the interfacing to stretch out a little bit so the all bias stretch interfacing i have cut out the front and the back you know the back from the front because the back does not have a notch along the neckline and the front does have a notch along the neckline right so that's how i know from from back and according to the instructions we are going to be adhering the interfacing to the right side of the fabric and i know that's counterintuitive but it goes back to that this is a lining and whenever we turn this to be a lining we want to make sure the interfacing is sandwiched in between you'll see how it comes together but we're just going to do what the instructions tell us and the instructions say to put this on the right side so that's what we're going to do so this is the back pattern piece because again it does not have a neck notch and so this just gets laid in and then we are going to go press this because it's fusible i'm going to go press this into place just like so over at my ironing board same thing for the front piece as well all right because i'm working with the smaller facing piece i'm going to use my illiso mini iron how cute is this little thing um it comes with this little trivet that allows you to hang it on the wall which is awesome you guys know i love organization and then it has a storage side but it also has a resting side because this one doesn't have the feet that lift it up off the table you have a little trivet that you can hold it down on and i like to use the small iron on small pieces that makes sense right you're not trying to wield this large iron iron in order to get these small pieces and even though the mini iron has like an exceptional like steam quality it still has all of these little steam vents when you use the thermo web any thermo web interfacing you don't need any steam at all that's another reason why i like the thermo web so much is because when you use the steam on other interfacing it causes them to shrink up how many times have you guys experienced that so the thermo web is designed to be used without any steam and even though the illiso mini iron has a steam function we do not need it for this yet it does have many different settings for fabric i can adjust this to one of the lower settings and know that my interfacing is going to adhere like it should without messing up my fabric all right and there you have it you can tell that it's like adhered to the fabric i like to let my interfacing just rest here until it's cool to the touch which it these parts already are because the iron wasn't super super hot which it doesn't need to be in order to adhere the interfacing if you're having to turn your a crank your iron up for your interfacing glue to like melt and adhere to your fabric i highly suggest trying a different interfacing um better quality interfacings require less heat which is better for your fabric okay so the next step is to take our bodice front and back aka the lining and we are going to sew it right sides together which means interfaced side faces interfaced sides so i actually had that backwards let me swap this around the interfacing is on the right side it's so hard sometimes whenever you're trained to do something one way and then they throw you for a loop telling you to do the interfacing on the right side then your brain is just so confused but interfacing faces interfacing and we are going to come up here and we are going to sew the five eighth inch seam allowance along both side seams i'm going to be doing mine on the serger but you guys if you don't have a serger you can totally do this with a little zigzag stitch the little lightning bolt stitch on your sewing machine it'll be just fine all right while we are over at our machines let's set this aside we are also going to go ahead and start preparing our ties now they want you to reinforce these little corners so we have one corner here and one here and then same on the other side one here and one here to reinforce then you go to your regular sewing machine and you just do like a regular stitch length it doesn't need to stretch so straight stitch and you just stitch along the seam line through the little corner and it just reinforces that little that little corner where the dots are but something that i want to point out about this is that the seam allowances are not consistent throughout so coming through this area which is our like the bottom like the i guess yeah the hem of the overlay that is a five eighths inch seam allowance but once you get into the tie this is a three eighths inch seam allowance same thing as you come up here this is all three eighths but then this little part is five eighths so i know that that's like come on could y'all not just throw us a bone but they didn't so what i like to do just to remember that and also to help myself when i'm at the machine know exactly how far to stitch and when to take that turn i will just draw in my five eighths inch seam allowance with a marker and then i'll draw in my three eighths inch seam allowance like this this way i know once i start coming to this corner i'm coming in at the three eighths stitching stitching and then i'll take my turn way up here okay so i'll just draw in those little right angles and reinforcing you only need to do an inch or so of stitching along each okay so our linings are sewn only at the side seams perfect and our over front we have done the reinforcing stitches along the corners on the bottom so you go i'm showing you the right side so you guys can see that thread a little bit but those are the stitches that we did for that now we are going to stitch right sides together the over front and the over back okay so over front to over back right sides together at your serger okay then after that is done we're coming in and the over front and over back are going to be stitched together right here right so now we're going to have it looking like this where we've got a seam over here now what we are going to do is a scary thing but you're going to grab your scissors and you're going to cut through this little corner to the dot but not through it so to that stitching you made but not through it and be very very very careful because this is a hard thing to undo okay so once you've got that done now we've got this one whole long piece repeat this whole thing repeat on the other side and this whole thing gets hemmed right so you'll get turned under and you'll either run it through your cover stitch machine or just do a very simple zigzag stitch all right how good does this look like i said just a little zigzag stitch on my machine and while you're doing that you also end up hemming the entire back as well so make sure to steam all this really really well um press your side seams to the back if you haven't already um and doing that process but we have like that whole part hemmed and it's looking really cute okay moving right along so the next thing that we are going to do is finish off these ties and the way that you're going to do it is simply take one side of one tie and match it with its opposite side matching up those little notches that are in the ties like so get it nice and even all your raw edges even and then you're going to stitch three eighths of an inch right along here all right and once you get that done oh i also did forget to mention earlier that this little area between the ties also gets hemmed whenever you're doing that original zigzag and so you end up with something a little bit like this it's a little bit funky but when we go to turn these out you get your finished ties and they look really pretty and finished on all edges and then you will have your finished ties and don't be alarmed when they produce this that is okay that is kind of the point because when we go to tie these it's going to create that kind of draping situation anyways isn't that really pretty so yeah when you get yours together you're like oh no everything's not laying flat it's actually not supposed to it's supposed to have this kind of like folded situation in it okay so don't be freaked out by that all right so now we need to attach our fronts or i'm sorry our overlays to our bodice or the lining however you are referring to it at this point and to do that it's really simple you're doing the wrong side of the bodice which is this the non-interface side of the bodice with the right side so this needs to go inside out it's it's so confusing i can even begin to tell you how confusing it is to have the interfacing on the right side but just follow along with me here so we've got non-interfaced side of bodice slash lining with right side of overlays okay so that means all of this gets put in here like so and then you match up your fronts that's the front make sure that your little notches match up okay come through the v and stitch all the way back up the other side of the front here right so you're going to stitch this entire v at your sewing machine no need to do it on a serger and again remember that we have trimmed this back ever so slightly so this is going to be a little bit smaller we won't it won't be apparent now but when we go to do the arm size it will be so you are stitching this whole line here all of this v then flip it over and you are stitching the same v-neck in the back okay this is our back v so you're lining everything up through here and stitching all along this v right once you have those two done then you're coming to your arm's eye right this little circle here and you are stitching between the notches so between this notch here all the way around to this notch here all right do you see that so what we're going to have open and do that on both sides so what we're going to have open is from the notches to the shoulders and then the entire shoulder seam everything else is going to be stitched and again don't be freaked out that you can see this finished seam from the right side it's supposed to be wrong side of bodice which is this to right side of overlays which is this okay okay so once you're done with that this is what you should have both of your necklines completely sewn and your arm size sewn between those notches and I want to point out that through the neckline and the arm side your main fabric is going to be a little bit baggy that is the whole point of why we trimmed away some of the lining earlier and I'll show you exactly what happens as a result of us doing that so we're going to turn this right side out and you can see ever so slightly the main fabric is being pulled to the inside of the garment that is exactly the point of why we trimmed back that little bit of the bodice front and back it is like such a great little hack I do it with all of my linings and they always turn out like this so you don't have to do any under stitching none of that kind of stuff which this pattern doesn't call for anyways but you can see it just creates a really beautiful finish on those edges of your garment that are like where the seam is supposed to be on the like outside of it okay so turn both of them right sides out through the arm holes or through the shoulder seams should be really easy to do okay and now obviously we're going to go press this just to make sure it stays in place nicely all right so turned right side out pressed and now we are going to sew these shoulder seams together so to do that I have the front neckline facing up and the back neckline laying on the table then you come over to your shoulder seam right you're going to open this up like a book and expose that neckline seam and at this point you have your lining or your bodice front in your left hand and the bodice overlay in your right hand and then the back is still laying on the table right grab the back the same the the lining or whatever you're referring to it as place it right sides together with the front and then pull the overlay around so now you have all raw edges touching your necklines are meeting up as are your notches that you have in your shoulder okay and you're going to stitch right along this at your seam all right and when you're done with that this is what you've got again the front is facing up and the back is facing down and all you're going to do is flip this along the neckline like that and now you've got a beautiful finished neckline but the um out part of the shoulder of the arm side is still raw I am going to show you guys a super cool little hack for avoiding hand sewing and I like to think of this as a work smarter not harder situation you can also call it just being lazy and just really not liking hand sewing so we have this open edge here right so what you're going to do is turn in the overlay turn in the lining right so now you've got what would be what it would look like if it were finished okay let me make sure that's right yep okay now you take your hand and you run it in between the overlay and the lining so in between here and you're feeling for those raw edges that you just turned under and you're trying to pinch it all so that it's still right sides together otherwise it's real easy for it to get twisted okay do you see how I have my finger up here and my thumb down here and it's pinching together that shoulder seam right sides together okay then you turn it all wrong side out now you have right sides together and as you start working everything through the um strap basically it's what you're doing the wider your strap the easier this is to do if this were like a smaller strap it wouldn't work um but because this is such like a wide strap we can pull it off now you're going to go to your machine and you were going to stitch these raw edges together at your seam allowance at the five eighths inch seam allowance and you're going to come all the way around until you have none left you might have to stitch some and then pull some out stitch some and pull some out but eventually you will come to a place where this whole thing is stitched closed and then I'll show you the magic I thought about making you guys say abracadabra before I do this but if you want you can but either way there you go now your arm side and your neckline are all totally sewn without doing any hand stitching whatsoever so again go to your machine sorry go to your iron press all this out and you can see we've got a cutie little jumpsuit in the works and that is it for today if you want some other tips and tricks I have for sewing garments download my free ultimate guide of guides it has seven different garment sewing guides with tons of information about sewing garments in general some of which can even be applied to this specific jumpsuit it's linked in the description box and I mentioned it's free yeah free if you missed the other two episodes of this sew along I've linked it here for you on this end screen I will be back tomorrow for episode three where we will sew the pants like this video so others will see it subscribe and click the bell but that is going to do it for me today y'all thank you so much for watching and I will see you very soon bye