 FreeSalonEducation.com invites you to join us every Wednesday morning at 10 a.m. Eastern Standard Time for live and interactive classes from your favorite FreeSalon Education Educators. So grab a mannequin, get set up, and make sure to share your results using the hashtag FreeSalonEducation. FSE live starts now! Guys this is Matt Beck from FreeSalonEducation.com there we go. So we're here today FSE live this is number 10 pretty much everybody's here Justin's on his way traffic or something I don't know but we got Brian here with us Draya Bowlin right I'm sure yeah so and we got Thad Bowlin as you can see so we're today we're gonna go over a haircut that you guys requested actually Kristen Myers I came through on the FreeSalonEducation community and she requested the Michelle Williams haircut from the Louis Vuitton ad and I spelled the ton wrong so we're gonna fix that but she requested the Michelle Williams haircut I'm excited to do this haircut because there's a lot of aspects to it and I think we've done you know some basic hair cutting over the last few times that we've met together so just you guys know we have the live chat open a lot of you are already typing on that if you're watching this live if you're watching it later make sure you tune in every Wednesday morning at 10 a.m. and you can be a part of that chat room so we're gonna go through we're gonna use our scissors to cut this you could use a razor if you wanted to I'm a I like using scissors I'm not really I don't use the razor that often the thorns I don't want to pretend and do it in front of you guys you know for these type of haircut so I'll show you guys some different techniques but you absolutely could use a razor with this if you wanted the key aspects of this haircut that if you want to pull up the first image yeah perfect so the key thing with this haircut is there's a big disconnect through the interior part and I think a lot of people make the mistake when they're cutting this is they don't take the part deep enough within the haircut because if you see it's wrapped around her head it kind of flows over to the side but if she wanted to she didn't have to part it that deep and the rest of the hair would fall down and become part of that haircut so that disconnection would completely go away so you've got the really short side in here and if you don't part it deep enough you're gonna have all this side short and there's nothing she'll be able to do about it later on so just make sure that your parts nice and deep we're gonna be working with pushing the hair in this direction so we'll cut more of a triangular shape on top we're gonna work through the back if you show the side view that thing I love about this haircut is it does have kind of a graduated feel throughout the back of the haircut so it's a lot of texture a lot of graduation you have that short disconnection in the very front of the haircut and then the top is completely disconnected from that so when I saw this haircut in this picture I thought Kristen did a great job because it's not just oh she showed me a blurry picture instead I can't wait to learn this she showed three different angles of the haircut so we can get a really good idea of what this haircut should look like and then we can break it down step by step so I'm not saying that this is the how this haircut was done but if it was brought to me in this lawn this is how I would do it so we're gonna start off in the back of the haircut you want the third photo not yet I mean we'll show the third photo when we go to the top so back to me yeah so right in here we're gonna start working I'm gonna take a section I already parted off obviously parietal ridge I pretty much did parietal ridge on both sides what that does for me is that even if she has a side part most of the time we're not making the side part all the way down to the parietal ridge if they do then go a little deeper but for the most part parietal ridge is pretty a pretty solid starting point so we section that off in a horseshoe shape section coming right through mid crown and then what we're gonna do is take a vertical section straight down the back so straight down center back and that's gonna be our starting point with this haircut I'm gonna part the two sides over and like I say and you know in every haircut that I'm doing with you guys we're just gonna keep it really clean throughout the whole haircut and make sure that we're adjusting the mannequin or the guest you know properly it's not going out right it's okay I don't need up here all right so we're gonna work right at the occipital bone so I'm gonna take from the occipital bone over now based on the size of your guest head and the head shape of your guest you may take a little have a larger head then I would not go as far up as the occipital bone this mannequin has a pretty tiny head so it's okay to take that much hair at a time so we're combing all that over I'm gonna clip whenever you're taking sections in a haircut the best thing to do is a hair nice and tight over you don't have to twist it all up because that way you're gonna be working on the rest of this hair eventually anyways so if I just put a clip up into it instead of trying to clip down the hair will stay up and it'll stay exactly where I want so as soon as I take that clip out the hair is already in the direction of the part that I want so my flow becomes a lot faster so even though I section both sides off here what I'm gonna do is I'm still gonna split these because I'm gonna be working on each side I just wanted to get my section ready for the next part of the haircut so I'm gonna be working diagonal diagonal seems to be easiest for me especially when I'm working with shorter lengths might be best if I move over here except that seemed good or no did you come back like maybe just like a step closer to that we'll see we'll see how that goes all right so diagonal forward section and I'm not gonna start off by cutting any guideline right away because I don't want a solid guideline in this haircut I wanted to have more of a textured feel towards the bottom so everything's gonna be elevated no line flat on the head so I'm gonna start this nice and short so working diagonal forward cutting palm-to-palm and the big thing you'll see here is everything came straight out and then I shift my finger angle because the head shape shifts so I want the same balance of weight throughout the whole haircut or throughout the back of this haircut so my finger angle was here and then it shifts down and changes a slight bit so Matt do you do that with all your short haircuts like so that way have a softer perimeter around the if I want a softer perimeter yeah okay it just depends on what we're looking for right now I'm not worried about building up a graduation at this point so everything's being cut straight out from the head I will have a slight wait line here but for the most part I'm collapsing this part and then the top or the the middle part of the haircut's gonna fall over top and create that graduation so we're really just removing this weight from the bottom right now now I feel like the kind of guests that I have that are gonna bring me this haircut are gonna be the ones that have a much skinnier density of hair yeah are you what are you gonna change back here to make sure that it doesn't collapse too much so that you can still maintain shape well even if so even if you look at somebody that has a lower density of hair that doesn't necessarily mean you want to keep a heavy weight line because if they have a lower density of hair the longer that hair is the more it's gonna collapse anyways you know so you need these shorter pieces haircut even if they have a low density of hair because the shorter it's kind of like somebody said to me one time if you run a tape measure out as soon as it gets to the ground because gravity pulls it down right it's the same thing with hair cutting even if you have a fine fabric if I hold this right here even though it's a fine fabric it stays straight and it's pretty pretty firm at that point right but if I were to hold you know this piece of hair out here then it falls over so even if they have a fine and a lower density of hair I still want to have some of those shorter pieces in there to build up that strong weight right at that occipital and then we'll leave a little extra weight right here on the top so maybe even keep it a little on the shorter side yeah to help make sure you get the foundation yep cool Matt you have a question here yeah it's from a beginner wouldn't it be easier and faster if you would cut big chunks and then just cut it all nice then cutting it nice and perfect like you are okay that's a good question so the reason that you wouldn't want to cut it into big chunks is kind of what I was just saying so if you go in and you don't cut structure in fine hair and you're just hurrying through to get done you're not going to have the structured lines and if you don't have structured lines within your haircut then there's nothing for the hair to sit on so for instance if I let's say I have this mannequin let me get this so let's say I'm going through and I'm doing this haircut and I just go in and I want to quickly just take this whole thing cut it hair cutting good works in three dimensions and that's something that you know any class that you're going to take you're going to probably learn it sort of in that way now the three dimensions are how how much weight do I want to push left and right how much weight do I want to leave or take off from up and down basically and then where do I want when you're looking at it how much density do you want to keep in the haircut so if I just grab all this hair and yes I could in a hurry just grab all this hold it here and then point cut through it and have it fall pretty okay right but the challenge with that is we're gonna make it look nice in the salon it's gonna look like it works then when the guest goes home and they want to recreate this style at their house they're gonna have trouble because there's no structure put into it there's you haven't told the weight where to go so the weights gonna be all over the place you haven't decided how much weight you want to remove or keep so it could be too heavy in places that you didn't want to so you can't just go in and take out a bunch of hair and just get done with the haircut you have to really go in take each line and we talked about this a couple weeks ago with the graduated Bob but if I take thick sections as soon as I grab all this hair in my hand you can see and hopefully that if you want to zoom in let me see if I I'll twist this up do I yep whoa I know so let me comb this straight out and I'll twist it so you guys can kind of get a better angle of it but you see here if I were to grab this whole section hold it straight out just like this and cut it right I'm pulling all this hair from way down here to my fingers and I'm pulling all this hair from up here to my fingers so what we're getting is we're collapsing it in the center and we're stretching it from everywhere else so we all know if we over direct hair it goes the other way right so if I'm cutting this hair just like this and I make that cut I've now pushed weight to the bottom and I've kept weight on top and in the center is the shortest point so there's no structure involved in that if I were to go in and take these small sections through here I'm not over directing the hair up or down at all and I'm just deciding how much weight and how much length I want to take off the haircut so that's really the best way to when you're cutting a precision cut you just have to take little bits at a time and that way you don't have to worry about the over direction and take putting hair where you didn't want it in the first place now if you were looking just to remove like some of the bulk would you think that that'd be advantageous or do you think that that would just like add additional time to the haircut the reason that people have to go in I believe and remove extra bulk is because they didn't do what they wanted to do in the first place before you got started with the precision like hair cut like this mannequin has a lot of hair on it like if you had a guest who had hair that was like halfway down her back or longer and wanted this haircut would you go through and like cut like pony tails off would you like remove some of the length or would you just go like straight into it okay I know what you're saying I I like if they have long hair if they have long hair just like this I mean if it was down to the floor it obviously cut a blunt line across but at this length I like it because it's easier to section it's easier to keep clean it's when they come in for the haircut the second haircut is when it's the hardest because you're working with all that short hair absolutely so I definitely would say to just do the haircut with the hair the way it is cool so we're still shifting in I haven't changed the angle at all but what's changed is her head shape angle so you're starting to see how this hair is building up in there and that's exactly if you go to the side view of Michelle Williams hair you start to see that weight building up and that's what you see in her haircut too so it it builds up the way and then it tucks into her neck that's what we're trying to create now the reason that I haven't changed my finger angle is this was all straight out from the head and now as I work up the head starts to move away so that the weight starts to build up no matter what basically you could take your comb put it here and you're gonna see that this is pretty close to the head and as it gets further away that's where that bulk's gonna sit in so you can kind of judge that angle that you want that hair to sit at just by looking at where looking at your comb and kind of judging it that way yeah I like diagonal because first off it's if you work what we talked about it again a couple weeks ago but if you work horizontally you're focused mostly on the shape of the haircut so really how much hair are you over directing back but you're not worried so much about how much weight you're keeping or removing so when you look at diagonal you're kind of hitting both both angles in that it's just like if you were to place a diagonal foil as opposed to a horizontal foil or a vertical foil you're gonna get a more blended effect than a vertical foil but not as blended as a horizontal so it's and plus it's a comfort thing this is easier than me having my elbow up here or me having my elbow all the way down here I can pretty much this is a comfortable way for my body position to be so it's really important to make sure you focus on that elevation because you don't want to drop it too far down because what's gonna happen is that weight will start to push too much behind the ear and you really want it to be nice and soft right behind the ear someone asked would this cut look much different if you use vertical partings on the back and sides like could you get there with it yes but for ease and understanding you're going with diagonal I'm going with diagonal because that's what I would do you know I you could go horizontal and vertical very easily and it wouldn't be a big deal it just works for me I'm basically my finger angle is trying to create in the head right so it just makes the most sense for me when I'm cutting this shape and like I can see it sitting here I don't know if the camera picks it up as well well now it can't it's covered but when you actually like look at it you can see the angles cut into it right or it would yeah so now we've created that structure on the bottom so now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna work on top of my hands and we're gonna get into the fun part that you guys like we'll do a little point cutting just to soften a minute you're gonna have to lower the lower the mannequin that is unacceptable how's that that should be good better all right so we'll get into the point cutting I am gonna follow so we did have that build up a weight and you can see it right here you can see that little bit of angle so I don't want to cut that corner off I want to go past that and then I'm just gonna point cut the hair through so that will still lay so you can see how it still lays nice and full but tucks right into the neck just like the haircut that we were going for here as you're doing this Matt someone asked a question when I'm cutting with elevation I'm always losing my angles any advice pretty please I think the way that you don't lose your angles is I mean it happens to everyone but the best way to do it is just to make sure that you're consistent with all your combing and you're consistent with your body position so like you can see here and I got to go over this real quick but everything I'm doing is all the same so the small sections just like I said that's what's really important make sure that you're not taking too big a section and then you shouldn't have any issues because like you can see here there's the thing that we would think is a guide but that's a disconnection I want to leave underneath there and then I comb up and I can see that angle that I've been cutting that is my guide right there so you just really small sections is the key I know everyone's in a rush to get their haircuts done because they have a guest waiting not they don't want to take a lot of time on them but the more time you take on a haircut wet the less time you're gonna spend blowing a dry because it's already drying so I think when you speed through a haircut and spend five minutes on it all of a sudden you're spending a lot more time drying because it's so wet and this way you can kind of have the best of both worlds so well because I've been playing with the brocado stuff quite a bit lately and we're actually we're gonna cut it that guy but yeah yep couldn't hear him we need to hear it more ask my question again all right my question again is what is your favorite cutting gel to be using at this moment in time so can we grab that the brocado gel here's a good one oh yeah I like now the gel Matt while he's finding gel Marion from Sweden says in Sweden we don't use pointing that much and I'm scared to try any tips for a beginner it looks so hard so I just put together a list all these videos that I want to make I think I put together like 25 videos because we've just been so focused on these live classes which are great but we want to you know get back to the shorter three-minute videos for you guys that are just quick tips point cutting was one of them because I watched a video of a couple guys that were taking hair and you know they're coming through and point cutting just they're doing a lot of weird stuff and I think point cutting is as simple as what I've said in a lot of my classes throughout you want to point towards somebody else towards your buddy that's where they get the definition point cutting right point towards somebody else then point it right back at you and then that's how you're going to go through and point cut because if you go through like this this how a lot of people point cut but first off you can see that blade that do you want to go to the closer one real quick so when I don't want to cut myself right I'm going through here and and I want to the point cutting the way I'm talking about let's see there we go so the point cutting the way I'm talking about is you point away from your body then back towards yourself and then you have your steady blade going across your fingers and it allows you to go through you can change the angle of how much weight you want to take out of the haircut or how how much how PC you want the haircut to be and then if you shift it and you point cut the way that you see a lot of people point cutting you could see that that blade that moves is actually attacking your finger so attacking the finger yeah so this way this is how you're gonna definitely cut yourself but not only that if now that we can see the full angle this is way more comfortable and looks a lot better than this so and no one really wants to have their elbow up in the air like that so or attacking their fingers so here's one thing that now we're gonna move into so you can see this disconnection I like having that there you guys could keep it there if you want to and then remove all that weight from the side that's up to you I'm gonna connect these two sides together so I'm gonna start by now taking so this is all been diagonal forward now I'm gonna work diagonal back and somebody asked me about combination cutting before and that's really what it is it's just combining the the basic shapes of haircutting to create different looks so we're going to combine what was triangular and now cut a round shape which follows the round of the head and works its way back so we're going to when I scoop underneath I'm gonna elevate just a little bit because I want to push a little bit of length down along the cheek but not much so just a slight elevation hey Matt before you cut that can you move a little bit to your left this to your left my left the other left like that that will be a nice okay so here is straight out from the head and here is where we're gonna cut it so just a little bit higher than you normally would and I'll recomb again we're following the head shape so my feet will now be moving and sliding so you can see it just a little slight bit of course a mannequin sticks out a little bit but a slight bit of length down there which we want keeps a little more feminine to me in my opinion but I think this is really where people who first start doing these cuts get scared yeah I mean taking that much length off the front and seeing all that weight in the back and then they freeze right and that's they have to just kind of work past but we know that I love mullets so I'm not you do actually I'm not scared one bit right now I took a picture for yesterday there's a gentleman getting out of a pickup truck and he had a beginner mullet and I took a picture of it because it was a beginner mullet yeah it was like a mullet in training it was like mullet training wheels and I felt you enjoy it because he happened on a pickup truck okay so now I did comb up on the first section but you never want to comb your I got another one you never want to comb your guide into the new hair so I combed up on the first one just to get that little bit of elevation in there but now I'm going to comb the hair down into my into my guide we're going to find that guide underneath right there and we're going to cut through and instead of just letting that tiny little corner you guys can see how it comes out but there's a tiny little corner and that corner will add a lot of weight if you don't remove it so you want to make sure that you grab just that little bit and walk around the head and you could see there's the edge in the corner there those tiny little details will change your haircut so if you want this to be a true round feel to the haircut with a seamless feel to it you got to remove those weight the weight lines in there so combing back again I'm keeping that hair kind of in the direction that I'm going to take it later on then around the head and now we have this kind of longer disconnect from the back I'm actually going to tie that in just a little bit just the edge of it into what we're cutting now because I don't really want all that length in there anyways so just that disconnect is going to now connect with the front just to make that make a little more sense to you guys we're working through so when I cut this top part we were over directing it up so we got a lot of length that fell down in here so when I go through and I'm cutting this kind of undercut feel to the bottom I just go through and I just pass through that section a little bit and connect that disconnection so that we don't have you know she doesn't have a ton of length on that side she doesn't in the picture anyways so it's a good way to get rid of it so I'm adjusting the head as I work and the reason I'm doing that is because I want to stay consistent with my elevation but keep chasing the head shape as it kind of folds back then my elevation is going to change as well and you're going to get weight in places that you don't want so and again this is why you would want to make sure that you went past her parting because if she was going to part right here then you would have just this exposed and that's not really what the haircut's all about so I think what people like most about this haircut is that the top is disconnected and kind of wraps around the front and it just exposes that the rest of the haircut just a little bit but it's not too extreme that can you still see this I picked a bad seat I'm gonna have to go back and watch this tonight they can't see over there Brian's here and he's got the worst seat in the house oh well it looks great Brian for my view okay all right I'm gonna leave this little piece disconnected for later so I'm gonna comb that back I'm gonna do a little scissor over comb so I'm gonna grab a longer shear so obviously I'm using all Mizetani there was a question about that last week because everyone saw the gold scissor well the gold scissors Mizetani as well but what kind is it so well the gold one is based on the Ichi Nino sa number one which is was the FSE scissor but we did a limited run so it's not available anymore and this is the blacksmith fit 6.5 I like a longer scissor for scissor over comb because if you ever see somebody comb and they're inching at it trying to get that line that's because you don't have a long enough blade and you really want to go through here and just have one cut through it this is really just a you know soften the edges obviously when I'm holding things in my fingers is gonna lay a little bit different than how it lays naturally so going through with a the looser teeth of the comb and just kind of lifting that hair up and cutting it almost at its natural state is the best way to get a real natural feel to it okay Matt can you spend just ever so slightly here right I think it's a little bit better scissor over comb is always so difficult to like get on camera all right and we have that disconnection in there still so we're gonna leave that cutting with that piece when we're done all right now I'm gonna go through and the other side's a little easier that if you want to show the other side real quick the image of it so this one does kind of have a disconnected feel as well but it's not as I'm gonna say it's not as undercut obviously I'm not hanging out with her so I don't know exactly what her hair looks like underneath but um we're gonna go with not quite as disconnected so still short still has the pixie feel but not as extreme just in zero spray bottle over there look at you guys I'm gonna throw it like Mardi Gras oh nice skills that makes up for my beer pong skills he's been practicing people to make sure every night never will all right so when you keep the hair saturated just so that the haircut you know has the same feel all the way throughout water changes the density of the hair and kind of makes it stick together so if you're looking to have consistency in your haircut you can't cut half of it wet half of it dry and like I said before at the beginning with if you take your time on a cut like this is already drying so it's only going to take me a few minutes to actually blow it dry because I spent that extra time on the haircut so again people ask me about the diagonal diagonal is a lot easier I on both angles of the head so take my guide from the back here and work across diagonally only difference now is my finger angle is pointed down and that is for consistency because I want to cut both sides basically the same that doesn't mean that my finger angle stays the same or my my hand position stays the same it just means that the actual way that I'm cutting the hair stays the same and then again we split the middle in half the mid part of the head basically low crown that part will still be cut diagonal forward and then we'll move into some point cutting through the the mid or the yeah mid-ground they should be focused on two things when this is happening is your clean parting but then how my finger angle is here and if it's following that and also the elevation but then where my hand is in this area and I want it to be straight out from the head because if I over direct at all I'm creating too much of a weight build-up in the haircut so really stay focused on not over directing it and not taking too much hair in your hand at the time so we can see that slight angle there and now I'm going to cut down to the ear with my parting on this back and we're gonna work on a slight diagonal back through the top mid-ground lower how's that looks perfect alright I'm gonna follow my guide from the previous side we're gonna point cut through traveling guide through here though so once I make that first cut we are moving across the head hey Matt we have another question might it be a weird question when combing the hair you're putting the scissors away from the head I always pull it in my hand or I was put in my hand can you show how to do it but slow yeah I think there's a lot of ways to they call it palming your scissors you know I don't I don't really know if there's to be honest it's kind of just this is the habit that I thought was cool ten years ago I still can't get out of it this point but what I do is when I have my scissor in my hand I flip it back so I'll push it back with my pointer finger into my palm and I catch it you catch it with your pinkie there's the camera so you catch a scissor with your pinky and then when I release it I let go with my pinky and I just pull it swing it out so push it back with my pointer finger and then release it and catch it a lot of people will push it back and then just pull it back with their thumb that works I wish I could just do that you're a ninja but I am a ninja officially yes black belt in haircutting ninja but there's a disclaimer on that if you're a student do not get in that habit yeah because if you were at a state board exam and they see you doing that a lot of states I've interacted with will fail you for that some states because I was in PA and I was swaying them all over the place so I'm not sure it depends on the state but definitely written now it is like Connecticut and Florida I think Florida's like that too yeah yeah I know New Jersey they'll just fall for your head I think California too I was gonna say Maryland will dock you a point but only one point for flipping your chairs maybe I got docked then I didn't know maybe maybe I had points to spare but you get a point you know like they knock it off for every single time you do it it's just only once right alright guys so you can see so you can see we haven't cut the the side yet but you can see how that angle just tucks in nice that's why I like cutting with the diagonal I mean obviously you can get it with any any angle you want but now I'm gonna connect the side working diagonal forward so we'll clip that up and I'm gonna connect it to a piece right in here so you can see underneath here that's what I want to connect it to to me that just kind of adds to the flow of the haircut but I'm still gonna work with the round of the head so not over directing back at all softening that line forward you're gonna see some longer lengths in there because this top part that falls over is disconnected because I was over directing everything up so that short underneath is what we're basing all this the rest of the cut on so don't don't connect it to that top part don't be afraid to go pretty short on this this half of the head because that whole entire top is gonna fall over and if you don't go short enough and if you don't remove enough weight it's gonna be really thick and dense on that side when you let that top fall over it Matt when you have two seconds we got a question about how tight or loose the shears should be and I know there's that fun little trick of when you hold them and drop the one blade this is about where it should close to yeah if you want to talk about that that's fine I'm we should make a video about that too there's a little test that you can do just to see because putting scissors away in their little pouch or wherever you put them sometimes you hit the little screw that can tighten them or loosen them and like she's noticing right here if they're too loose it just opens and bends the hair and isn't cutting and just doesn't give you the the tightness that you need to really slice that hair off nice and even so the little test that I always do is when you when you hold them up in one hand and I can't think right now because I'm not holding scissors which side you hold but when you drop one of the blades it should close the way I think you hold the side with the tang and drop yeah you thumb yeah and then when it drops it should close most of the way but not all the way like that and my scissors are a little tighter because I do the stupid ninja swing thing so because you don't notice whether or not you're holding shears or well yeah when you go to swing them around they'll fly open if you have them not a little tighter so it's probably not good for the scissor I wouldn't recommend it but so now as I work through the top the very last option and and the way that I work with hair cutting is I was working like this but now I'm not comfortable with my elevation and holding my hands up this way so instead of going diagonal forward I'm gonna work diagonal back there's no difference in the cut it's not gonna change the cut what it's gonna do is it's almost like I'm cross-checking but I'm just adding in some of that hair so if you look at when I go to pull this hair up here I've actually got my angle already in the haircut so I'm just gonna follow that angle working diagonal back and almost cross-check my haircut at the same time so if I see any weird steps now the biggest thing with this is you want to make sure anytime you're cross-checking that I'm not over directing the hair anywhere that it wasn't in the first place so because everything was cut flat at the head everything needs to be taken out in small sections straight out from the head so work our way back you can see that angle right there so it's a good guide for me and then I run into my disconnection which I do not want to cut because I like how that disconnection falls within the haircut we'll cut that dry in a sec tops pretty easy so I'm gonna go through the top this on her haircut is kind of wrapped around and has that feel we're gonna pretend like we're not cutting it that way because that's not the whole purpose you want this haircut to be versatile and work in a couple different scenarios so not always showing that disconnection so I'm gonna part it where she would want to part it if she was gonna wear the haircut regular so we're calm we'll comb all that down now we're gonna first off work I need to lower this that that's you just need to bounce back to the other one that's good so I'm gonna part off of basically the center point so we're gonna look at this as a pinwheel around we want the way to be shoved mostly to this side so everything on this side this portion is gonna be over directed back to to our desired point with the amount of weight that we want so I'll kind of go over that once we get to that point but right now I want to blend the front and back so first section of the pinwheel me I'll turn this you guys can see good yeah so the first section of the pinwheel and we're gonna just go in and connect it you're gonna want to drop that drop what yeah yeah it's all we got you might have to go the other angle so we'll go through point cut with the round of the head again nice and soft take our next part of the wheel here over directing up using that previously cut as a guide through there same thing cutting through and now I'm not directing but not too crazy but I definitely want to show you guys the over direction and this is again all based on density so this last little bit we'll bring it back it'll be over directed to just just right at the ear maybe a little bit behind which will give us that angle in the front so if she wanted to she could wear this part down and if you see it's a little more see-through than you want it to be then you could go through and just add a little bit more to it but I think it's think it's good now we've got all that fun part going there so now we're just gonna work on this side key part here I'm gonna bring everything to me we got our guide right there so again I'll do a little point cutting working diagonal back but over directing towards myself so still creating that kind of push forward with the way a triangular feel to it and just adding a lot of texture to the top part of the haircut and even though we're cutting a lot of texture in it doesn't mean I don't want to get all those little loose hairs off the scalp first before I cut yes join the party all right then when we comb this over it's got a nice length off to the side so now I'm gonna quickly blow this dry and then we're gonna do some dry cutting to really just tie it all together I want to use the blow dryer to really lay down how the mannequins hair grows out as well so that will help with the overall look so somebody asked earlier what kind of color you would suggest for this kind of haircut I like blonde yeah you know I think that's I actually you know I think I think blonde goes best with it we were I had a bunch of brown mannequins that I could have used and I was I didn't want to because I don't feel like it'll showcase the haircut the same and usually blonde hair is a little more textured has a little more less density you know so personally I would say blonde like a blonde with any kind of yeah well I think doing obviously some balayage or some highlighting through the top will really showcase the disconnection a little bit more yeah and just make it visually a little more eye-catching because it's I mean it's a great haircut but there's so much structure put into it if it's all one color you might lose some of that when it's sitting there yeah so however your preferred method of creating a really cool dimension just having there be something a little bit different through that disconnection in the top then through the bottom I think will really just show off all the work that you put in haircut wise yeah along the lines of your jack-o-lantern block color would look really cool on this too especially on the top in the you know that more longer side yeah I think your client Jamie would probably look really good with this one so I'm just working with a flat wrap normal kind of technique working the front back and forth really just so that I don't have any kind of calic or anything get in the way of the dry cutting where all my products are on the shelf looking for the medium oh it's up there I think every time fad like ninja crawls I want the mission impossible theme song to play but what cracks me up that's ninja crawling past the cameras and he's in control of what cameras are showing the what I said that's ninja crawling so the cameras don't seem but he's in control of what cameras are filming yeah but the two cameras are right next to each other this is just a medium hold hairspray from brocado I like especially right when the hair is about dry helps with some of the flyaways and then just gets a nice hold in there smells good too so this is my favorite thing about this haircut that if you want to go to the other you could see the texture in it so that disconnection underneath but then as this flows over which we're going to cut into obviously but as that flows over it's just got all this fun disconnected pieces that they come over top of it as well so when we get into the dry cutting it's gonna be really fun to add all that texture into that and really let the haircut come to life and master I'm gonna smooth this a bit with the vibrating vibra straight iron I don't want to straighten it too much though I just really want to smooth out the ends in the longer part tension chatroom I'm unable to communicate Matt's computer turned off and I don't know the password uh-oh we got we got the rock stars on it it's fine almost finished Matt the double-sided Mizutani texturizers where are they to acquire where are they like do we have them anymore is just Mizutani oh no they're on they're on shop FSE okay I'm actually going to go through with some texturizers but we're gonna use the acro leaf wide which has a dry cutting blade so it's a little fatter it kind of has a rounder shape to it so it's gonna slide through the hair a lot better and is uh it's not so I don't know how many teeth this one has but I didn't want to go with like the really wide texturizing teeth we're going with a more of a medium feel to them with the wider teeth when you pinching shear than a texturizing yeah I mean it creates a lot I don't really use that one as much as as these now Matt when would you use a texturizing shear over just like a dry cutting technique with a dry cutting shear um that just personal preference personal preference I when I'm going through here I really want to soften right now all these disconnections so it's a little more forgiving using a texturizing scissor then it is a dry cutting scissor because dry cutting scissor you're really removing everything you know as you cut through so we're just gonna go through here I'm sliding through really just sliding through that disconnection not getting into the undercut part of it because I want to soften this and I want to look at how this is gonna lay for her and when we're thinking about a guest in the salon how it's gonna lay for her when she styles it so you can see how this stuff falls over so it has a nice cover up but then when she goes to part it then that disconnection gets exposed and I really I want that disconnection to expose a little bit more than it actually is so I'll just go through and really remove some of this length in that actually your thoughts on this while using a fitting shear have you seen the techniques where they get like two different pairs of fitting shears in their hands at once some people drive me crazy and I think how do you feel about I think it's silly I everything should have a purpose like you know and I'm definitely the guy that the first thing I learned in beauty school is how to spin my scissors because I thought it was cool you know so I'm not the guy that I understand the flashy and everybody wanted to be flashy when they're cutting hair but you really everything should have a purpose like all this stuff that I'm cutting all of this disconnection it was cut on purpose so I don't want to take it all out what I want to do is just soften into it and really just we're fine-tuning everything we got into dry cutting last week and you know I'm going to do it again because every haircut is dry so even I'm going to work diagonal forward so I'm just going to clean up some of this with scissor over comb just to fine-tune that back I really want it to fall nice and sleek and then even though I elevated all this so we don't have a real straight line in the back I'm going to go through and use the point of my scissor and soften the back of the haircut and when I'm working through here scissor over comb even though I lift it up horizontally I'm looking at my angles that I created diagonal so that doesn't mean I'm going in here and now making sure this is a horizontal line in the haircut I'm just going through and checking it in all angles to make sure that it's falling the way I want to alright now now we come to the front and the front I think is the key thing that people love about this haircut besides the disconnection so we really need to make that kind of tie in and make it work so I'm going to go in and point cut some more to lighten up but I also we're looking at the length here and I want you to kind of see that length and when we look at the picture so if you want to go to the one that shows more of a front angle that when you look at this this is a lot shorter than this so we're going to go in and create that texture that you're seeing in that haircut using some dry cutting techniques here so we're going to lighten the top and now I know where I wanted to fall I wanted to fall at our chin so all of these pieces I'm going to start doing our tease cutting technique that we show quite a bit and it's a half close of the scissor and really teasing into the hair which helps kind of shatter and break up the lines that you're creating so in the top of this haircut I really want to build in a lot of texture so we're going to be pretty severe with you know the amount of teasing that we're doing you can start to see that coming but not Michelle Williams so this isn't going to look the haircut will be similar and with this part this is the big kind of disconnect that falls over so I don't want to make that too short plus if you want this to wrap all the way around and not fall in her face all day you really don't you want to have some of that length in there I'm gonna do a little bit tease cutting in the back with this disconnection here so I'm just pinching the hair and going through and adding that texture I think the one of these last steps is really I mean I remember I first started doing these it just looked so mullity and I not until I found out how to finish a haircut did they look you know super clean and nice which again I think for like you know beginners is what really they should be paying most attention to well yeah and you're cutting in you know the texture in the haircut or you're cutting in the structure of the haircut first right and then you're going through and you're then putting in the details and all of that so we have our structure we had our structure that has you know the disconnections built into it but those disconnections are still heavy they still need to be cut so that's you know what we're doing now is just going through and fine-tuning every little bit of the haircut so now I want to go through add that texture yep extreme close-up your hair looks nice thanks I know a guy so a little bit of the carve which is like a cream texture-based product from Bercato which I really like I'm gonna work that through the hair then you can really start to see all those pieces that we cut and everything kind of come into life at that point questions on that show so you guys can see kind of how it tucks in here nice natural neckline we have the disconnection and in this part coming up over and wrapping around the head and that's really you know the basis of the haircut it's a mannequin it's a little bit tough some things I'd like to change but I think we have to do hair now so but that's pretty much the overall feel of the haircut so if you guys have any questions anybody have any questions now we've pretty much been and women chatting up okay all right well thank you guys so much for watching this is the 10th week we've been doing this so we'll be back next week with another class to see if you guys have any suggestions for that class post them in the comments below also follow us on our social media social media community on Facebook if you go to our website just hit community or look up free salon education community on Facebook and make sure you subscribe to us on YouTube and you'll know all the alerts and everything on all these videos that are coming out we'll see you guys tonight on our video podcast splitting hairs it will be at 730 Eastern Standard Time so hopefully you can catch it anything else no I think are pretty solid see you tonight all right we'll see you guys tonight thank you so much for watching and we'll see you next time