 This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Cynthia Lyons, Naperville, Illinois. Bohemian, San Francisco. The Elegant Art of Dining by Clarence Edwards. Section number 16. Paste Makes Waste. In an Italian grocery store, we noticed a great variety of pastes in boxes arranged along the counter and began counting them. The proprietor noticed us and, with a characteristic shrug of his shoulders, said, That is but a few of them. We have not room to show them all. In response to our inquiry regarding the number of kinds of paste made by Italians, he said they were more than 75. Ordinarily, we think of one. Spaghetti were possibly two, including macaroni. If our knowledge goes a little farther, we think also of tagliarini, Which is the Italian equivalent of noodles, as it is made with eggs. In New York, we were much impressed with the stress they laid on the serving of spaghetti. And one restaurant went so far as to advertise, Dinners given under the spaghetti vine. It appears that this is the only paste they know anything about. After one eats tagliarini or ravioli, one feels like paraphrasing the darkie and saying, Go away spaghetti, you don't lost your taste. Then comes tortellini, which like ravioli combines paste with meat and spinach. These may be considered the most prominent of the pastes. The others being variants in the making and cutting. Each serving a special purpose in cooking. Some being for soups, others for sauces, and others for dressing for meats. It is more than probable that the great variety comes from individual tastes in cutting or rolling. All Italian restaurants serve the paste as a relève rather than as an entree, Which it usually follows, preceding the roast in the dinner. As a separate and distinct dish, it can well be made to serve as a full meal. Especially when tagliarini is prepared after the following recipe. Tagliarini de bozar. Cook one pound of tagliarini in boiling water 25 minutes. Then draw off the water. To the tagliarini, add a handful of mushrooms which have been sliced and fried in butter. Then add three chicken livers which have been chopped small and fried. One sliced truffle, one red pepper chopped fine, and a little parmesan cheese. Make a brown sauce of one third beef broth thickened with melted butter and flour and two thirds tomato sauce and pour this over the tagliarini. Sprinkle with the parmesan cheese and serve very hot from a chafing dish. By Oliver, chef of restaurant de bozar Paris. In San Francisco, one finds both the imported and the domestic paste. And frequently one hears the assertion that the imported is the better. This idea is born of the thought that all things from Europe are better than the same made in America. In fact, the paste that comes from Italy is neither so good in taste nor is it so clean in the making. We have visited a number of paste factories in San Francisco and have found them all scrupulously clean with the best of materials in the composition of the pastes. One often wonders how the pastes came to be so many and how they received their names. Names of some of them are accidents as is illustrated by Macaroni. According to an Italian friend who vouches for the fact, it received its name from an expression of pleasure. Macari means fine, excellent, and the superlative is Macaroni. A famous Italian gourmet constantly desired the new dishes to please his taste. And one day his chef carried to him something that was unusual. The gourmet tasted it, cried out, Macari. Tasted again throughout his arms in delight and cried Macaroni. What is the name of this wonderful dish? You have named it. It is Macaroni. Tips and tipping. Tipping is variously designated. Some say it is a nuisance and should be abolished. Some call it an outrage and ask for legislative interference. Some say it is an extortion and refuse to pay it. Some say it is a necessary evil and suffer it. The wise ones look at it a little differently. Possibly it is best explained or excused, whichever way you wish to call it, by one of Gouverneur Morris's characters in a recent story who says, Whenever I go anywhere I find persons in humble situations who smile at me and wish me well. I smile back and wish them well. It is because at some time or other I have tipped them. To me the system has never been an annoyance but a delightful opportunity for the exercise of tact and judgment. We look upon tipping as a part of expense to be calculated upon. It is necessary to ensure good service, not only now but in the future and it should always be computed in the expense of a trip or a dinner. Tipping, to our minds, is the oil that makes the wheels of life run smoothly. The amount of the tip is always a matter of individual judgment, dependent on the service rendered and the way it is rendered. The good traveler wants to tip properly, neither too little nor too much. Thereby getting the best service, for in the last analysis the pleasure of a trip depends upon the service received. American prodigality and assininity is responsible for much of the abuse of tipping. Too many Americans when they travel desire to appear important and the only way they can accomplish this is by buying the subservience of menials who laugh at them behind their backs. A tip should always depend upon the service rendered. We make it a rule to withhold the tip from a careless or inconsiderate waiter and always add to the tip a word of commendation when there has been extra good service. The amount of the tip depends first on the service, second on the amount of the bill, and third on the character of the place where you are served. When we order a specially prepared dinner with our suggestions as to its composition and service, we tip the head waiter, the chef, the waiter, and the busboy. We have given dinners where the tips amounted to fully half as much as the dinner itself and we felt that this part of the expense brought us the greatest pleasure. It is impossible to make a hard and fast rule regarding how much to give a waiter. Each person must use his or her own judgment. If you are in a foreign country, you might do as we did on our first trip to Paris. We wanted to do what was right, but not what most Americans think is right. We were at a hotel where only French were usually guests and in order to do the right thing, we took the proprietor into our confidence and explained to him our dilemma. We asked him whom to tip and how much to give and he got us out of our difficulty and we found that the tips amounted to about as much for one whole week as we had been held up for in one day at the Waldorf Astoria. The mythical land. Notwithstanding the fact that Webster gives no recognition in his dictionary to the land of Bohemia or the occupants thereof, the land exists perhaps not in a material way but certainly mentally. Some have not the perception to see it. Some know not the language that admits entrance. Some pass it by every day without understanding it. Yet it as truly exists as any of the lands told of in our childhood fables and fairy stories. The old definition of Bohemian was a vagabond, a wayfarer. Possibly that definition may to a certain extent be true of the present day Bohemian for he is a mental vagabond and a mental wayfarer. In our judgment the word comes from the French bonhomme for surely the Bohemian is a good man. Whatever may be the derivation the fact remains that not to all is given the perception to understand nor the eyes to see and therein lies one of the dangers of writing such a book as this. If you read this and then hurry off to a specified restaurant with the expectation of finding the Bohemian atmosphere in evidence you are apt to be disappointed for frequently it is necessary to create your own Bohemian atmosphere. Then too all nights are not the same at all restaurants. For instance if you desire the best service afforded in any restaurant do not select Saturday or Sunday night but if you will lay aside your desire for personal comfort in service and wish to study character then take Saturday or Sunday night for your visit. It is very possible that you will think the restaurant has changed hands between Friday and Saturday. On Saturday and Sunday evening the mass of San Francisco's great cosmopolitan population holds holiday and the great feature of the holiday is a restaurant dinner where there is music and glitter and joyous human companionship. At such times waiters become careless and sometimes familiar. Cooks are rushed to such an extent that they do not give the care to their preparation that they take pride in. On other nights consoling themselves frequently with the thought that the Saturday and Sunday night patrons do not know or appreciate the higher form of gastronomic art. Remember also that the world is a looking glass. Smile into it and it smiles back frown and you get black looks. In Bohemia we sometimes find it well to overlook soiled table, nappery, sanded floor or untidy appearance. Of course this is not in the higher class of restaurants but there are times and places where when you must remember you are making a study of human interest and not getting a meal and you must leave your fastidiousness and squeamishness at home. It takes some time to get well within the inner circle of Bohemianism but after you have arrived you have the password and all doors are open to you. If our friends think of a new story they save it up until our next coming and tell us something that has always a bearing on Bohemia. For instance, how few of us know the origin of the menu card? It seems to be a natural thing yet like all things it had a beginning and this is the way it began according to a good friend who told it to us. Frederick the Great was the lover of good eating and his chef took pride in providing new and rare dishes for his delectation but it frequently occurred that the great ruler permitted his appetite to overcome his judgment and he would eat so heartily of all the food first set before him that when later and more delicious dishes came to the table he was unable to do them justice. To obviate this he ordered his chef to prepare each day a list of what was to be served and to show their rotation during the meal and in compliance with this order the first menu card was written. To Frederick the Great is also attributed the naming of the German bread now called pumpernickel. According to one of our Italian friends the story runs this way. Frederick wished some bread and his chef sent him a loaf that was of unusual color and flavor. It did not please the king and he was not slow to express his disapproval. He owned a horse named Nicholas but commonly called Niccol and when the chef appeared before him to receive his censure for sending in distasteful bread Frederick threw the loaf at his head exclaiming, Bomporn Niccol, from this it received its name which has been corrupted to pumpernickel. After the doors are open to you you will find not only many new stories but you will learn of customs unusual and discover their origin dating back to the days whose history remains only in folklore. You will be led into family secrets of the alien quarters and will learn of hopes, aspirations and desires that will startle you with their strangeness. You will find artists, sculptors and writers of verse in embryo and if you remain long enough in the atmosphere you may see as we have some of these embryonic thinkers achieve fame that becomes nationwide. It is said of the islands of the south seas that when one eats of certain fruit it creates such a longing that the mind is never content until another visit is made. San Francisco's Bohemia lays no claim to persuasive fruit but it is true that when one breathes in the atmosphere of this mythical world it leaves an unrest that is only appeased by a return to where the whispering winds tell of enchanted land where you get the best there is to eat served in a manner that enhances its flavor and establishes it forever in your memory. End of Section 16. A few hints regarding the proper serving of wines may not be amiss and we give you here the consensus opinion of the most noted gourmets who have made a study of the best results from combinations. Never drink any hard liquors such as whiskey, brandy, gin or cocktails with oysters or clams as it is liable to upset you for the rest of the evening. With hors d'oeuvres serve verse with hors d'oeuvres serve vermouth, sherry, marsala or madira wine with soup and fish serve white wines such as rind wine, saterne or white burgundy with entrees serve clerits or other red wines such as swiss, bordeaux, Hungarian or Italian wines burgundy may also be served at any of the later courses with roasts serve champagne or any of the sparkling wines with coffee serve kirsch, french brandy or fine champagne after coffee serve a liqueur never serve more than one glass of any liqueur the following wines may be considered the best types amontillado, montillo and olorosa cherries Austrian burgundy is one of the finest wines possessing rich flavor and fine perfume other burgundies are chablis, a white burgundy dry and of agreeable aroma jambertine a sound, delicate wine with a flavor resembling raspberry clove de vejeaux similar to jambertine and often called the king of burgundy romanie, a very rare and costly wine of rich ruby color with a delicate bouquet wines are valued for their flavor and for their tonic properties some of the best are chateau gruyet, a dessert wine of good flavor and fine aroma chateau lafitte has beautiful color and delicate flavor chateau le rosé greater alcoholic strength and of fine flavor chateau margot rich with delicate flavor and excellent bouquet a heavier wine with good bouquet and fine flavor German wines are of lighter character and are generally termed Rheinwains the best varieties are Hochheimer a light pleasing and wholesome wine Braunenberger a good variety with pleasing flavor and aroma Dreymanner similar to Braunenberger Grafenberg light and pleasant good aroma Johannesberger Schloss one of the best of the German wines Ruedesheimer Schloss in class with Johannesberger Italian wines are mostly red the most noted in California being Chianti and it's California prototype Tipo Chianti made by the Asti colony La Crima Cristi Spumanti the finest Italian champagne dry and of magnificent bouquet Vindoro Spumanti a high-class champagne sweet and of fine bouquet and flavor La Crima Cristi a still wine of excellent flavor and bouquet Malaga a wine of high repute sweet and powerful a peculiar flavor is given to it through the addition of a small quantity of fine bouquet to it through the addition of a small quantity of burned wine Marsala is a golden wine of most agreeable color and aroma Souterne is a white Bordeaux a strong luscious wine the best known varieties being Chetto di Chem remarkable for its rich and velvety softness Barzac rich and good Chetto Fio of rich color and good flavor Bordeaux Blanche a white Souterne of exquisite bouquet Ott Souterne soft and mild of good flavor Vindegrave good and strong good aroma and flavor Vintage years have much to do with the quality of wines The best vintage years are as follows Champagnes, 1892 Rhin and Moselle 1893 Burgundy 1892 1899 and 1904 Claret 1898 and 1904 Port 1896 and 1904 Sherry 1882 1890 1898 This is a LibriVox recording All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Cynthia Lyons, Naperville, Illinois Bohemian San Francisco The Elegant Art of Dining by Clarence Edwards Section 18 A Good Bohemian Dinner Sometimes people desire to give a dinner and are at a loss as to the proper time to serve wines The following menu will give some idea on the subject Menu Gibson Cocktail Canopy Norwegian Serve these before entering dining room Artichoke hearts in oil ripe olives celery oysters on half shell bisque of ecrevis chablee or white sautern sand dabs edward the 7th sliced cucumbers aist chateau la fite cassoulet of Terrapin, Maryland romaine tagliarini de beaux-arres punch pistache cigarettes alligator pairs with kumquats, French dressing chicken portola crude private cuvee brute creamed new potatoes celery victor french peas zablione reina cabot coffee royale cigarettes, grand marnier In our travels through Bohemia it has been our good fortune to gather hundreds of recipes of new, strange and rare dishes prepared by those who look farther than the stoking of the physical system in the preparation of foods. Some of these are from chefs in restaurants and hotels some from men and women of the foreign colonies and some from good friends who lent their aid in our pleasurable occupation that we cannot print them all in a volume of this size is our regret. But another book now in preparation will contain them together with other talks about San Francisco's foreign quarters. From our store we have selected the following as being well worth trying onion soup cut four large onions in large pieces and put them in six ounces of butter with pepper and salt. Slowly stew this in a little beef stock and a little milk stirring constantly for one hour. Add more stock and milk and let cook slowly for another hour. In a terrine place slices of bread sprinkled with two tablespoons of parmesan cheese. Beat the yolks of four eggs and mix them with a tablespoon foam of the soup and pour this over the bread and cheese. Cover this for five minutes and then pour over it the rest of the soup. Crayol gumbo soup. Take two young chickens cutting pieces roll in flour and fry to light brown. Take the fried chicken a ham bone stripped of meat for flavor. A tablespoon full of chopped thyme of rosemary to bay leaves a sprig of tarragon and four quarts of water until the meat loosens from the bones. Then slice and fry brown two large onions and add two heaping quarts of sliced okra and one cut up pod of red pepper. Stir all over the fire until the okra is thoroughly wilted then remove the larger bones and let cook three quarters of an hour before serving. Half an hour before serving add two boiled tomatoes or an equal quantity of fresh ones and a pint of shrimps boiled and shredded have a dish of well boiled and dry rice and serve with two or three tablespoons in each soup plate. Oyster salad To a solid pint of oysters use a dressing made as follows beat well two eggs and add to them half a gill and vinegar half teaspoonful mustard celery seeds salt each one tenth teaspoon cayenne and a tablespoon full of butter put all in a double boiler and cook until it is all is as thick as soft custard about six minutes stirring constantly take from the fire heat the oysters in their own liquor and add the dressing mixing lightly set away in cold place until needed Italian salad soak two salt herrings in milk overnight and then remove the bones and skin and cut up in small pieces cut in small pieces one and one half pounds each of cold roast veal and cold boiled tongue and add to these and the herrings six boiled potatoes half a dozen small cucumber pickles and two small boiled beets all cut up and two raw apples three boiled carrots and one large boiled celery root all minced mix all the above in salad bowl and pour over it mayonnaise dressing garnish the tops with hard boiled eggs sliced and capers these stones have been removed garnish the bowl with parsley and in the center put hard boiled eggs stuffed with capers Solari's crab louis take meat of crab in large pieces and dress with the following one third mayonnaise two thirds chili sauce small quantity chopped English chow chow a little Worcestershire sauce and minced tarragon shallots and sweet parsley season with salt and pepper and keep on ice souls with wine take filet of soul and pound lightly with blade of knife then soak them two hours in beaten eggs seasoned with salt and pepper when ready to cook roll them in breadcrumbs and fry in olive oil take a little of that oil and put in another pan with a tablespoon full of butter and season with salt and pepper and again cook fish in this adding half a glass of dry white wine sprinkle with chopped parsley and let cook five minutes sprinkle with parmesan cheese and put slices of lemon around it serve on hot plates grilled mushrooms skin and remove stalks from large fresh mushrooms and lay on a dish with a little fine olive oil pepper salt and over them for one hour broil on a gridiron over a clear shop fire and serve them with the following sauce mushroom sauce mince the stalks or any spare pieces of mushrooms fine put in a stew pan with a little broth some chopped parsley, young onions butter and the juice of a lemon or instead of the latter the yolk of an egg beaten up in cream and pour around the mushrooms Italian turta cut very fine the tender part of one dozen artichokes take one loaf of stale breadcrumbs moisten and squeeze and add three tablespoons full of grated cheese three cloves of garlic bruised one onion chopped fine several sprigs of parsley chopped fine a little celery olive oil mix all together thoroughly with plenty of pepper and salt and make into a loaf bake slowly 45 minutes eufs au soleil poach eight fresh eggs and then take them out and place in cold water until cool lay them for a quarter of an hour to marinate in a glass of white wine with sweet herbs dry on a cloth and dip in a batter of flour mixed with equal quantities of ale and water to the consistency of double cream fry to light brown eggs with wine put three cup full of red wine into a casserole and add three tablespoons full of sugar rind of a half of lemon raisins and sweet almonds blanched and chopped when the wine boils break the eggs into it as in poaching eggs let them cook well and then put in a serving dish add one tablespoon full of flour to the wine and cook to a cream then pour over the eggs Italian risotto soak two level tea cups of rice mash two cloves of garlic and mix with a little mince parsley soak a dozen dried mushrooms in a little water until soft then chop fine and drain cover the bottom of a soft pan with olive oil place over the fire until quite hot then put in the garlic, parsley and mushrooms and a half a can of tomatoes and cook half an hour drain the rice and put in a saucepan adding a little broth half a cup at a time to keep from burning then add, stirring constantly the other ingredients cooking all together until the rice is done salt to taste sprinkle with parmesan cheese scallops of sweetbread parboil the sweetbreads and then glaze in reduce aleman sauce dip in breadcrumbs and fry in butter until a light brown when done dish in close order and fill the center with Toulouse Ragu as follows Toulouse Ragu prepare a half a dozen fine large coxcombs two dozen button mushrooms small pieces of sweetbreads and a proportionate quantity of truffles place all in a stupan and add a small ladle full of drawn butter sauce and the juice of a lemon cook a few minutes lamb chops marinated soak kidney lamb chops in the following mixture for 12 hours and then broil 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1 small sliced onion 1 mashed clove of garlic 1 broken up bay leaf 12 whole black peppers 6 cloves 1 teaspoon of salt 2 teaspoons of dried thyme lemon peel Spanish chicken pie cut up a chicken and boil until tender cut up and fry in chicken fat 2 onions 2 green peppers stirring in 1.5 tablespoons full of flour have ready 5 tomatoes stewed and put in 2 dozen ripe olives with a small clove of garlic mashed great 7 large ears of corn with salt and put in a layer in a greased baking pan then chicken then the other ingredients with a little of the gravy stir all together and bake until brown chicken jambalaya cut a young chicken into small pieces and stew until tender having the meat covered with the broth when done remove the meat drain and fry to light brown with 2 slices of onion onion and 100 California oysters back into the broth and season with salt pepper juice of a lemon bruise clove of garlic chopped green pepper and a pinch of red pepper let all come to a boil wash and dry 2 cups of rice and put into the soup and cook until thoroughly done and moderately dry 25 minutes serve hot or cold in mole this is Mexican turkey in red pepper a favorite banquet dish cut a young turkey into small pieces and boil with shallots and salt take half a pound of red peppers scalded and seeded and grind fine with black peppers celery seed, cloves, allspice and mustard about half a teaspoon of each and add to this some of the broth in which the turkey was cooked put a pound of lard in a skillet and when boiling put in the mixture with the turkey and let cook 10 minutes sending it to the table hot Delmonico raisin sauce brown butter in a skillet and stir in a teaspoon full of flour forming a smooth paste add 1 cup of hot soup stock stirring constantly while boiling put into this a handful of raisins handful of blanched almonds pounded, half a lemon sliced thin, a few cloves a pinch of cinnamon and a little horseradish fine for roast beef Pule a la Napoli cut and trim a chicken as for fric-a-z take the wings, drumsticks, thighs and two pieces of the breast put them in cold water half an hour drain and wipe dry and dust over with flour and set aside take the rest of the chicken with the giblets and chop small with water let this simmer for two hours making a strong broth with a little veal two ounces or more slice an onion into rings which place in the bottom of a stew pan with an ounce of butter to this add the meat and a pint of white broth let all simmer but not boil or let color over this pour common broth until covered and bring slowly to boiling point add a small bouquet of herbs and simmer for an hour then strain thicken a little and then simmer in this the stalks and peelings of a quarter of a pound of mushrooms and the chicken that was previously prepared and dusted with flour when done strain them strain the sauce and thicken with flour until it is the consistency of a rather thin batter dip the pieces of chicken into the batter until well coated and set aside until it is cold then dip the chicken into well beaten eggs and cover with breadcrumbs let set and then repeat in hot olive oil fry the chicken until a golden brown serve on a napkin and garnish with parsley and potatoes duchesse cook the peeled mushrooms in the remaining sauce before the last thickening and serve in gravy boat to pour over the chicken zabeone beat together hard for six minutes six eggs and four teaspoons full of powdered sugar in a double boiler and place over a gentle fire never ceasing to whip until the contents become stiff enough to sustain a coffee spoon upright in the middle while whipping add three wine glass full of marsala and one liqueur glass of maraschino brandy pour into tall glasses or cups and serve either hot or cold peaches a la princess have six fine peaches not too ripe and place in saucepan with concave side up take one peach peeled and mince with a dozen macaroons adding the yolk of an egg and half an ounce of sugar mix all well together and with this fill the half peaches moisten all with half a cup of white wine and sprinkle with sugar bake in a hot oven and pour over zabayon and serve this will make a most delicious dessert dish sultana roll add the beaten yolks of seven eggs to one pint of boiling milk one cup of sugar one half teaspoon full of vanilla one quarter teaspoon full of almond extract when thick add two and a half cups of thick cream cool and freeze line the bottom of a mold with sultana raisins which have been soaked in sherry wine 24 hours put a layer of frozen cream then raisins continuing until all is used pack an ice and salt two hours and serve with caramel sauce caramel sauce butter the inside of a saucepan put in two ounces of unsweetened chocolate and melt over hot water add two cups of light brown sugar and mix well add one ounce of butter and half a cup of rich milk cook until mixture forms a soft ball when tested in cold water flavor with vanilla and pour while hot over each service of the roll it immediately hardens forming a delicious caramel covering to the ice cream Welsh rare bit take one pound of mild American cheese and put in saucepan add five wine glass folds of old ale place over the fire and stir until it is thoroughly blended and melted pour this over slices of delicately browned toast serving hot coffee royal take of the best mocha coffee one part of the best java coffee two parts put six tablespoons full of the mixture into a bowl and add an egg stir the mixture five minutes add half a cup of cold water cover tightly and let stand several hours put into a coffee pot the coffee mixture and add four large cups of boiling water stirring constantly let it boil briskly for five minutes only then set on the back of the stove five minutes before serving add a small tablespoon full of pure French brandy to each cup sweetened to taste arena cabinet mix at table and serve on hot toasted bent biscuit take a quarter of a pound of ripe dark roque for cheese and rub with a piece of butter and a slice of a walnut until smooth adding a teaspoon full of Worcestershire sauce and a wine glass full of sherry with a pinch of paprika rubbing until it is smooth this is best mixed in shallow bowl or soup plate Virginia eggnog beat separately the yolks and whites of ten eggs the yolks to a soft cream to the beaten yolks add one pound of granulated sugar beating until fully blended and very light let one quart of fresh milk come to a boil and pour over the yolk of egg and sugar stirring constantly until well blended to this add one gill of French brandy or one half pint of good whiskey on top of this place the beaten white of egg and grated nutmeg serve either hot or cold mint julep brew several sprigs of mint in a mixing glass with pulverized sugar fill the glass with ice and pour over it a jigger of whiskey let stand for ten minutes and then put in a dash of Jamaica rum dress with sprigs of mint and sprinkle with powdered sugar serve with straws index bills of fare beef steak Spanish celery Victor chicken country style in the shell jambalaya leondoro al anapoli pie Spanish portola chile riennes clam fritters chowder coffee royal crab louis stew dessert Italian eggnog Virginia eggs Spanish with wine fish souls with wine soul Edward the seventh sandab filet cold frito misto lobster a la newburg lamb chops marinate mussels mariner mushrooms grilled mint julep menu model oysters a la catalan a la poulette omelette peaches a la princess planked filet mignon polenti tolle on mole rice Spanish Milanese Italian rena kebucht salad Italian palace grill oyster sour brun sauce delmonico raisin caramel mushroom scrapple shrimp creole Antoine snails bordelez soup fish creole gumbo onion sultana roll sweetbreads scalloped turta Italian toulouse ragu tamales tagliarini de beaux arts terrapin a la maril mariland wines how to serve Welsh rare bit zabeone restaurants blankos boninis barn bongusto castilian coppers fashion charlie's felix floor fiordia detailia flytrap francs fred solaris gianduja hang farlow heidelberg in half brow hotel st francis jacks jules la madrillina liandoro lunas mint negros odeon palace hotel poodle dog berger francs portola louvre raftskeller shellfish grotto solaris tates teshows visuvius old time restaurants babs bouldin hotel bazouros berger california house call captain cropper campies christian good cliff house cobweb palace delmonico el dorado house francs gobies goodfellows goodfellows grotto hoffman house iron house johnson's oyster house jacks louvre matanta mannings marchands marshal's chop house martins meson doray nevada new york old louvre perini's pierre poodle dog pup peter job palace of art pop floyd reception sanguinetti tahama house three trees tortoni thompson's viticultural and zincans bohemian san francisco the elegant art of dining by clarence edwards