 This is an Ender 3 Pro and this is an Ender Extender Kit and today we're going to supersize this Ender 3 Pro. My name is Jim and this is the Edge Attack. So like I said today we're going to take the Ender 3 Pro that Lindsey built in another video and we're going to add the Ender Extender 400 kit to that. It's going to take our build surface from 235 by 235 all the way up to 400 by 400. This is going to be awesome. I really like to thank Mark over at Ender Extender for sending me the media kit which includes a whole bunch of stuff. Watch for videos to come but this is the one we're going to start out with. This is going to be a step-by-step guide on how to install the Ender Extender 400 kit on an Ender 3 Pro. Now he did send me the Pro version. If you don't have an Ender 3 Pro there's a completely different version you need to look at but this particular one actually uses the 40 by 40 extrusion which is huge but we're going to get rocking. I need to tear this one down so we can build it back up. Let's do it. Future Jim here. We just put together this awesome Ender Extender 400 kit. I just wanted to go back to the beginning a little bit and tell you that this video is all about the assembly of that Ender Extender 400 kit. There will be other videos coming and you probably will need to check out some other videos after this to make sure this thing's dialed in with the firmware if you already don't know how to flash that. Also you want to check out the bed leveling video if you need some help with that. All this stuff is in the description below so make sure you check that out but as for this video it's strictly going to be the build which is an awesome build. I had a lot of fun doing it. Now back to it. We're going to get rocking and rolling but first I want to show you what's all involved and there might be some more parts we need to throw in but this is what we're going to start with and I'll call out each part before we do it. So we have our belts. This is the X and the Y belts. These are the bolts that came with it. There's M5 by 25 and M5 by 20 bolts along with some nylock and plastic washers here. Don't forget about the top frame member, the bottom front and the bottom rear frame members along with the Y axis which is a 40 by 40. That thing is huge and the X axis profile to go across. So these are the parts we need but before we can install these we actually have to start tearing down that Ender 3 Pro. Let's do that now. So the first thing we need to do is remove our LCD screen. So grab your allen wrench that came with a kit or any other allen wrench you have and just remove the two bolts and once you get the two bolts removed take the cable out of the back of the screen and we'll be done with this step. So I got the LCD removed and the cable removed here. That leaves us with these two bolts and I'm actually going to use this little glass bowl and put them right in here. You want to make sure you save all of your parts from this machine because you never know what you're going to reuse later and in case you ever want to put it back to normal you want to keep those parts and those bolts. So I'm going to keep everything in this little glass bowl back here and I'm going to set my LCD screen in the back right there. The next thing we want to do is remove the print bed. So take off the magnetic sheet if you have one on then down here let's unscrew all four of the wheels. So remove all of that and the springs will fall out when you lift this up just like that. We'll take the springs out and I'm going to push this back through the back here and you want to be very careful and for now I'm going to set it right back here. Now what we need to do is remove your filament holder if you have one. So we'll take that off. We'll take our allen wrench and we'll loosen the two bolts and those t-nuts for your filament holder. Once you've got them loosened your filament holder will come off. Now what we need to do is remove the four top frame members and you want to keep these bolts and the little washers that are on them. So we're going to remove all four of these. Now all four bolts are removed you can take off that top and set it aside. Now what we want to do is loosen your coupler right here. We want to come in and we want to start pulling all of your end stop cables out of the extruder and the x-axis here the y-axis down here and the z-end stop right down here. You want to make sure all of those are pulled out. The next thing if you have your cable zip tied or anything to your extruder here you're going to want to take that out as well. Now that everything is disconnected from your x-axis you can actually raise it all the way up off the top here. Just by turning your z-end stop it should allow it to turn. You're going to raise the whole x-axis right off the top of the machine like this and then set it aside right over here. Now I'm going to remove my z-rod and it just pulls right out because it's already loose. Then disconnect the y-motor which is right down here. Make sure that's all disconnected as well. Now we come over here to our belt tensioner and first we loosen the belt tensioner up. Once your belt tensioner is loosened up go underneath here and let's just pull that belt out like this. Remove the belt tensioner and set it in the back where everything else is. Then we need to disassemble our x-axis so I'm going to flip this over and there are two screws so we need to remove these two screws right here. Grab your allen wrench. Again it can be the one that came with your kit or any of them. And we are going to loosen this up so once those are out you want to save these bolts so put them in your bowl or your jar or wherever you're saving your screws take the carriage here and put it in the back. Now what we want to do is take the belt off of the other side underneath then we can slide off our carriage here for the hot end and set it aside. Something that you might want to do also is pull the clip here and take out your Bowdoin tube. That way you can move the whole carriage to the back. Now we're going to finish up working on our x-gantry here. Now we can pull the belt out and we're going to put that aside. We're going to have new belts so we're not going to reuse this right now but you never know when you're going to need that. We're going to flip this over because the bolts we need to take out next are way down in here. If you remember from building your Ender 3 we had to go through the back to get to these bolts. So if we flip this over you take your Allen wrench through the back of those holes and you loosen those up and those should come out pretty easy. I'm hoping you had them nice and tight but you never know. Some people don't. So once those are completely loose once those are completely loose the bottom plate will fall off and you have your carriage here. Now I'm going to leave the bolts in here for now because we're probably going to reuse them on the new carriage and it's a lot easier if they're actually in here already than to pull them out and put them back in. So leave these two bolts right here if you can see them and we'll come back to those. Set this in the back. Take your old x-gantry bar here and we'll throw that in the back as well. Now we want to take our power supply off so go in the back here and disconnect your XT60 connector if you have one. If you rewire these you're going to need to take that off a different way. So go in the back and disconnect your XT60 connector here. Take your Allen wrench and we're going to take the bottom one off first and this should be the mean well power supply because this is Ender 3 Pro. Take those bolts don't forget to save them because we're going to use them later I believe. So take your power supply and hold the back of it here because you never want to strip this case out. Pull that last bolt and put your power supply aside. Now we're going to remove our ZN stop. That's just these two bolts here with T nuts and that should come right off. Set that in the back. Now we're going to remove this motor by taking the two bolts out that secure it to the frame and there's one there and there's one right on the other side here and all you have to do is take both of those out and then set the motor in the back. So I am leaving these two bolts in right here. I'm not going to take those all the way out I'm just going to leave them in this mount for now. Now we need to remove the electronics case and I believe to do that all we're going to do is slide this forward and take out this back bolt here that holds it to the frame. There should be two on the Ender 3 Pro. Then we're going to take out the two front bolts here. Once we've got those two front ones out underneath there's one more right here that we need to remove. Grab your smaller allen wrench and remove that bolt as well. Once you remove this bolt your whole electronics case should be free. You want to be very careful here and it should pull up and you should be able to take it out right out the bottom like this and set that on the side. The next step is to remove the four bolts and the uprights here. So we're going to start on the right side. I'm going to remove these two upright bolts. Once you get these four removed the uprights will come off and then we're going to worry about removing the other part here. Now that the uprights are gone we need to remove these legs here and that's going to be done by these four bolts on each side. So remove those four bolts on each side and that'll take these legs off and then we're on to the next step. Now we have these two separated. These are your two legs. While we have these off we actually need to remove these end caps so just grab them and they should pop out. Otherwise grab a screwdriver and pull those out but they should come off pretty easily like that. We need to do that to both. This is the carriage that we have left. Next in the instructions is to remove this Y end stop bracket. So we're going to grab our allen wrench and it should be held on by T-nuts. So loosen up those and that end stop should come off and set that in the back. Now in the front of the machine we need to loosen up our Y tensioner and there's two screws on each side so loosen these two and the two over here and that will slide in and out. Now that it's loosened we can push it in and release the slack right here on that belt. Next we want to remove the belt from this carriage so that just pops out like this and the same thing in the back like that. So once you get your belt out just set it aside. Now we need to remove the Y motor here and there's three bolts on the pro so take your allen wrench and remove those three bolts and that will remove this Y motor. Once it's removed you'll have the three bolts throw those in your jar and set your Y motor to the side. That leaves this carriage in one piece and according to the instructions we're completely done tearing down. The instructions don't ask us to take the carriage off here and they also don't ask us to take this tensioner off yet. So now we're on to the assembly. Now it's time to build the kit. What we're going to do is grab six of our M5 by 20 bolts that came in the kit here the two 2020 extrusions that are the long ones and the two legs we took off before. How this is going to work is we're going to take our legs and put them like this between our 2020 extrusions. You want to make sure the beveled edge is right here they're going to go in the bottom holes on the Ender 3 Pro. So we're going to do this on this side we're going to do that on that side and then connect all of this to make the brand new frame. The best way I found to do this is to stand up your legs like this hand tighten the four screws in here then grab your allen wrench and finish tightening them up just make sure that they're straight and when we're done we're going to square up this frame so repeat this step on the other side and then we'll have the whole bottom frame built. So I have all of it connected right now and I did not tighten it up yet. What I want to do is just make sure everything is straight make sure everything's sitting on a nice level table make sure that it's not all crooked or anything like that and you want to do this before you finish tightening these bolts because you want it to be straight from the ground from the foundation from the bottom up. Now what you want to do is grab a square and this is the kind that I have and you just want to go in here and make sure that you are square on all four corners. So those two look good that one looks good it's a little big that one looks good though. Make sure you're totally square and you can use a corner square you can use a square like this anything you have to make sure that you're completely square in the frame here before we proceed. Once you know you're completely square tighten those bolts all the way around and we'll move on to the next step. Next you want to grab the bag with the bolts and the t-nuts here and we're going to put them into our frame. So I flipped this over and this is the bottom side and you want to make sure that these channels here are in the bottom side for your bolts. We're going to take our bolts and we're going to push them through there like that on both sides. Now you can see them right here and we're just going to take our t-nuts here and turn the t-nuts on just a little bit like this. Now you only want those t-nuts on a couple threads because we're going to put another cross member on here and when we do that we want to make sure that these t-nuts can turn and lock in. So do this for the back side as well and we'll be right back. Next we want to find the new Y axis and on the Ender 3 Pro this thing is monster it's 40 by 40 and it's huge. Something to note the front of it where the tensioner goes will have holes screwed into it on each side. So when we take the tensioner off the old one and we put it here this is going to be your front. So what we need to do is position this onto the new frame. So this is the way I found to do this. I'm going to take my Y here and lay it on the counter or on my desk and then what I need to do is set the frame down on top. Make sure your t-nuts are down in those channels and then spin them around and see if they bite. So once you get them to bite on the front go to the back and do the same thing. So we got the t-nuts attached on both sides but it is but it's just loose enough where you can still slide it. So this is what we have now. This is our new 40 extrusion for the Y here and this is the base. So this is the rear and this is the front. How you can tell that is the front has those belt tensioner holes in the sides and the rear is actually threaded in the back for our motor mount. What you need to do now is take a ruler and go approximately 55 millimeters from the end here. So slide this in so it's right about 55 millimeters just a little more. So I use this millimeter ruler that also has inches on one side and it looks like we're right at about two and a quarter on that side. Just make sure this is about 55 to the rear of the machine. Next what we're going to do is take our square. I'm going to go from underneath because of the size of my square here and I'm going to put it right up against the edge here and right up against that gantry and you want to make sure you're totally square here. I have a little bit of play so I need to fix that. So in my case I'm going to pull this side a little bit down, push that side a little bit up and you're going to do this until you are perfectly square here and then you want to flip it over and just make sure that you're square here as well. So we're good. That is square on both sides and you want to make sure that is square before you tighten this up. Once you know you're square then take your wrench and tighten up the four bolts with those t-nuts on them. So one, two, three, four. When we're done tightening it this is what we have. This is our new Y extrusion here. We have about 55 millimeters here and the rest sticking out the front. We know that it's all square in here and straight and we can go on to the next step. The next step is to reinstall the LCD screen and the control box. So in my kit I'm going to keep it in the same location right here. That's what they said to do. So you're just going to use one screw and it's going to go in right there in the extrusion and just screw it on in and just tighten that screw in and make sure that it's secure. Now it does sit on the extrusion here so it's really not going anywhere but just make sure that's tight. Next we want to install the control box and you're going to install it right in the same position as it came from. So just make sure all your cables are out of the way. Put it right there and use one screw to screw it in right here. Something to note I think it was supposed to come with an extension cable for the LCD screen. Now mine didn't come with that. I rerouted the LCD screen cable out the side of the case here. It's super easy to do and then it actually goes through and reaches the LCD then. I can't cable management through the bottom like they recommend but because mine didn't come with that I'm actually going to put it right here. I'm going to plug it into the back of our LCD and cable manage it the best I can. Now I have the box right here secured in so I ran it through the bottom here and it goes into the top of that LCD screen on this side so that's perfect. Now I can use some zip ties and actually secure this if I want to so I'll do that in the end. Once I got this on I realized that this control box is not on correctly and the wheels hit it. So this actually needs to drop down and sit behind this frame I believe. So I'm going to do that now. I'm going to drop this down and use this bolt here to go through it and secure it to the frame. Okay so I pulled these two bolts out. I slid this down to where everything clears now but I can only put one of the frame bolts back in on the bottom here because this is solid. So you either have to drill out a hole here so this can go through or just screw that top one in with one of the older bolts that came out of the old machine and I think that's what I'm going to do for now and I'm going to reach out to Mark and see what he suggests on this because the instructions aren't super clear about what to do in this situation. So right now I have one bolt here, one bolt there, it's holding everything in its place, everything's tight and everything is still square so we should be good. Now we need the Y carriage plate from the old frame so we took that off and you want to make sure that your wheels are connected to the outermost points here and with the Ender 3 Pro they come like that. If you have an Ender 3 standard you might have to move them but in our case we're good. Then you want to grab the Y belt that comes with the kit. It's super long and you want to feed it through your extrusion and you want to do that so their teeth are face up and just feed it all the way through that extrusion. If you need to you can tip it upside down to make it to make it a little easier. Just make sure you feed it all the way through until it gets to the other side. So when it comes out the other side it should look like this. You want to make sure it's not twisted or anything like that and you want to make sure the teeth are facing up. So now grab that Y carriage here and we're going to feed it in onto this extrusion. Something to note the eccentric nuts are facing to the right when I slide this on so they're over here just like they were in the original. So you want to feed that on carefully like this and mine in this case is super tight. So this is the perfect time right now to adjust this and make sure that this thing's adjusted like it should be. So what you want to do is loosen it up until it wobbles. So you get a visible wobble on both. So now we're wobbly and we're super floppy okay. Then you want to come to the front and just start just tightening it a little bit just enough to make the wobble go away. But no more than that and no less than that. So there's no wobble now in the front. I'm going to go to the back one. No more wobble. Maybe just a hair more and you just want to go back and forth and do this till there's no wobble at all. But so this thing rolls super smooth and that is rolling really good. There's just a little bit too much tension on it for me. No wobble still. There we go. So I can throw it backwards and forwards and that's a really good moving Y carriage here. So you want to do that at this point that way you don't have to adjust it later when everything's built on the top of this. So once that's done now we grab the old frame here and we need to remove this tensioner. Now take out the two screws here and the two screws here and we're actually going to install them on this one. Now that we have it off like this we need to install it here and it's going to install just like it came off so it's going to go around this extrusion and your holes should be in the bottom here and those two bolts will hold it in on each side here. Something you might want to do is feed your belt up through while you don't have it tightened yet and then put it on that pulley like that. Now everything's there and you don't have to fight it down here once you got it all screwed in. Then you grab the bolts that came off. Then grab the bolts that came off the original kit and put two here and put two on the other side and don't tighten them in yet. Just put them in so they're just about hand tight. When we're done it'll look like this. You have your two bolts on each side it is still loose so if I grab it I can still slide it out and push it in. It is a tight fit but it will slide right now. Once it's on we need to go to the back of the machine and put our Y motor in. For this step we'll need three of the original bolts that came out and your Y motor and this is the rear of the machine. You'll see all of the threaded extrusion here. We're going to take our belt and we're going to push it through just like this through that hole so make sure your belt is face up. Then we're going to grab an Allen wrench and put these three bolts in and they're going to go one here one there and one there. So we're going to put in all three of these to hold our Y motor in. Now we have the three bolts in like you can see here and they are they are not fully tight so this is a little bit loose so I can adjust it. When we get the belt down we're going to want to adjust everything so it's rolling very straight so I leave this and the front end just a little bit loose. What's fun is we're really seeing the size of this machine now. I mean this is a huge travel area for that giant 400 by 400 bed and the next step is to secure our belt to the carriage. You want to push this in here and around and secure it just like that. Then you want to pull the other side in and it should be fairly loose still because we haven't tightened anything up and you want to secure it again just like the other one is and I'll show you in a second where the travel is on this belt. There we go. So it is secured now and it's traveling right over the top here and through the center of that extrusion. Now it's very important that everything is straight and when you go like this and travel it it's not going back and forth. If this is turned one way or another it's going to send this way off and you're going to notice that on your pulleys. So go back and forth a couple times this isn't attached it's not going to hurt anything and just make sure that on your pulley everything is staying straight. I see mine's off just a little bit so I'm going to give it a little tweak here and I want it to travel right down the center if possible. So it looks very good right now what I want to do is tension this just so I get the slack out of this and we might as well do that right now before anything else is on here. Now this side you can't move right this side's in there and it's traveling straight so I'm going to tighten this in but we want to go to the front here and tighten it in and I'm going to turn this around and show you how to do that. So we're looking at the front right here the two the four bolts are right here and we want to make sure that this is tight. So I'm going to pull that back out we need to tension it up so we get a nice good twang on this thing. So I'm going to pull it back out here until we get a nice twang and you can hear it. So what I'm going to do now is I pulled it straight everything straight and it's level so I'm pulling it kind of down right here with my thumbs. I want to make sure that these get tightened in more so I'm going to tighten in one side like that and I'm just going to tighten the first bolt like that. So I'm going to come back here and I want to tighten the back bolt on this side and I'm going to do that for a reason. Now we have the back bolt and the front bolt holding it so it's not going to spin. I'm going to just slide this back and forth and just make sure we're sliding good and we are we're doing really good there. We have a good twang it looks like it's pretty decent. Now I'm going to tighten the other two bolts down so this thing doesn't move and if we need to adjust it later while we're actually printing we will but this is a really good start. Now what we need to do is start assembling the build platform and what that consists of is your bed here and the new bed which is huge compared to this. I mean if you see this that's how much difference it really is. So what we need to do on the Ender 3 Pro if you can is peel off your magnetic surface. Now that really sucks if you've been printing on it and it's really stuck on. In my case this has not printed so I'm going to just peel it off and hopefully it comes off very nicely so I'll take my time and do that. If yours isn't coming off very nice just take a knife and cut into where your screws are here and you can always leave the magnet on. So once you get the magnet off or you cut the holes in which is much easier I gotta say that took me like 15 minutes just to get that magnet off that was rough. You want to push your screws out now because we're going to use them in the other plate. Something to be said be very very careful with the connections here under the bed. If these connections come loose you'll lose your heat on your bed and you don't want that to happen. Also it can be very dangerous if those come loose or break and short out. So just be very careful with those two wires. When I was wrestling everything I was really careful not to break them but I tell you what I can see where it would be super easy to break those. What we want to do is take our new build surface here this is the new aluminum build plate and we want to put our four screws in and you can do this one by one or all four whatever whatever's easier for you but we get those in there and then what we need to do is put them back down through the top of the old build plate here. So you need to line it up underneath the best you can and I'm not sure if you can see that really good or not but it should just slide all on there and when you're done you'll end up with something like this. This is the new build surface this is the old build surface and your bolts are sticking out like that. Now if you do it like this you do not need to put a new piece of strain relief on here. They do offer a bigger bed heater which will play within the future so this is where we want to be right now. Now if you're really careful you can actually flip this up like I did and it will hold the screws in so we can start the next step. We want to take the plastic washers that came in the kit and we want to put one on each bolt here then you want to take the nylox that came with the kit and you want to tighten those down and you want to do this for each post we want to tighten these nylox all the way down onto those washers so these two surfaces are completely attached and tight. Now myself being super impatient these were taking a very long time to do them by hand so I grabbed a wrench and I grabbed a drill and I just tightened them in like this and made sure they were tight. Now you want to be careful obviously you don't want to damage anything down here but that is the fast way to do this and it's way faster than doing this by hand if you have the means to do that. I'm going to do this last one and we'll go from there. All right so now we have the black plastic washer and then our nylox on and these things are on really good. This needs to be replaced so I actually have a piece that they sent me this is a longer strain relief that I'm going to use if you don't have this you probably want to cut this off and I say that because this when it goes on here it's it's going to be at an angle when your spring goes in and you don't want that. So you want to cut the little zip tie here carefully and that'll come out and then the little clip will come off like this and everything will just come apart. Put that on the side so we know this is going to be the back and so what I'm going to do is I'm going to push this down like this so it's going to go all the way across it's going to hold our cable just like that so I'm going to take some zip ties and zip tie that in and when the spring and everything goes on it's going to set down nicely. Now I have that zipped in here and everything runs nicely through the center so when it sits down it's going to be nice and flush. Now what we need to do is turn our machine and attach our new build plate through the carriage here so we're going to put our screws through the carriage just like it came but you need those springs that it came with. So what we need to do is take our spring and put it either on the plate like that or on your screw like that and we got to set each of these screws in into that hole with the spring above it and I'm going to do that now. Okay so I wrestled all that together and it took me about 20 minutes to get it all together and I suggest you start with this back left aside that's the hardest one to get on and then you know you kind of go from there so at this point they say that all the ender extender specific constructions are complete now we just have to put this thing back together like a regular ender 3 so that's what we're going to do so as you can see this build surface is much larger than the original that's the magnet that came with the original it is huge I really think this is going to be an awesome upgrade I cannot wait to keep going let's put the uprights on let's get the excantree on and get this thing put together so what we have here is the original uprights and the four bolts that came out of the original uprights this upright needs to go on the right side and it needs to go on like so so your holes are on the inside here I say that because we need to put the power supply back in this upright goes on the right side with the two holes on the bottom so we can mount our stepper motor here right to the bottom so there's two holes here as you can kind of see in the camera and then there's two holes here so those two holes go towards the bottom on this side these two holes go on the bottom on that side and we're going to put our uprights on now so if you're familiar with my ender 3 assembly guide you know how to do this if not I'm going to link it above right now and you can use that to actually build this whole part what I'm probably going to do right now is cut in to that guide and walk you through the assembly of this the only thing that's different from what you're about to see is that you're going to use the longer two extrusions instead of the ones that came with the machine everything else will be the same everything we do to dial in the excantory everything we do to dial in the uprights everything's going to be the same except for remember you want to use the long extrusions that came with this kit okay let's move on to step number one in luke's performance assembly guide so what we got is we need the two larger extrusions and we need the base and we need the allen wrench and four m5 by 45 millimeter bolts so what we're going to do is point out that this one is the right side how you can tell it's the right side it'll have two holes here and you want to use the hole that's closer to the bottom towards the bottom of the base okay the other extrusion don't forget inside of this is going to be your z screw or your z rod and that is just a protective case so we're going to take that all out and inside of there is your z rod see so we're going to go ahead and set that over to the side and how you can tell this is the left is it'll have two holes here and that'll be closer to the bottom that's how we're going to put it in so at this time we're going to go ahead and turn our base up and put on our left extrusion and then we'll work on the right one so you'll take a bolt on each so two bolts each you're going to push them up through the bottom and screw on the extrusion from the top so i like to do this on the side so it's going to line up something about like that when we're ready so you just want to take your bolts push it from the back and tighten it in and then we'll go over the next steps in a second so i just wanted to point this out these are the two bolts that we're pushing in okay i was having a little bit of trouble holding the extrusion and then pushing the bolt in with my finger and turning it so what i did was i used the rounded side of our hex key or allen wrench i put it in here and that could press do some pressure and then i i was able to screw and tighten that bolt in from the back like that so just a quick tip you might be able to hold this hold your bolt in with your hex key here and that way when you're holding your extrusion you can actually turn and tighten it in so the next steps to do the to do the right side extrusion we have the extrusion here what we want to do is make sure that your holes are on the left side of the extrusion like this and that that hole is closer to the bottom if you have it upside down this this hole here will be pretty far up the top here so make sure you're putting it on with that hole closer to the bottom so it's very important that these are not fully tightened down right now as you can tell with some medium pressure i can twist these and they still rotate a little bit we're going to go over why a little bit further down in the instructions but you want to make sure that these are both able to rotate a little bit in here and they're not fully tightened down yet okay let's move on to step number two and what we need for step number two is two m5 by 8 bolts and two m4 by 20 bolts we need the screen and control panel and we need the power supply we're going to go ahead and do the power supply first so the first thing we want to do with the power supply is we want to flip it over and there's a little switch right here this little red switch if you're in the us you want to push it down make sure it says 115 here if you are outside of the us and you use the 230 it'll be up and it'll say 230 so then what we're going to do is turn the power supply around and i like to set it here just for a second while i grab my screws so these are the two m4 by 20 screws and and what i like to do is take your allen wrench your hex key put it on there i like to push it through and just see the other side so i can get that top one started so that that top one is now started i'll do the same thing for the bottom i'm just going to push it through and watch it so it gets on there and then i'm just going to use the long side here and i'm going to snug it down just till about tight but no further just like that okay so now we got our power supply on these two bolts are holding it so we're going to take our allen wrench and our two smaller bolts and the control screen and we're going to get those on first thing i want to do is move this a little bit closer to the edge of the table it'll make it a lot easier to screw these two screws in if your allen wrench isn't hitting that table also we're going to take our ribbon cable and we're going to plug it into the back of the screen right away and we're going to do that in the third so all the way to the left side if you're looking at it so we're going to go ahead and do that then our screen will sit up just like this uh so we're going to take our smaller screws and we're going to go ahead and get our screen put on with the smaller screws so take your allen wrench you can kind of hold it and get the first one in take your allen wrench here and get the second one started and once they're both started they go in pretty quick so once you get your two bolts in use the small side and you can just get those snug maybe a quarter or half turn past tight and that concludes step two we're going to move on to step three actually we're going to move on to step five in luke's guide because in steps three and four they work on the excantry and we're going to come back to that so for step five what we need is the left trolley and you can this is the left trolley right here you can tell it's the left trolley because it has the extruder on it we need a bowden coupler we need two of the m4 by 16 bolts here we're just going to use two and then we need the larger of the two extrusions that are left and i'm going to show you that now you can tell it's the larger one uh like this there we go so we need the larger of the two perfect and then what we need is we're going to start by putting the bowden coupler into the extruder just like this so we're going to screw it in finger tight and this is your extruder so we're going to screw it in their finger tight and then we're going to come back and grab the wrench that came with the kit and we're just going to tighten it in about a half turn tight wrong side there we go about a half turn tight perfect so now that you got the bowden coupler on what we need to do is go ahead and put the extrusion onto the left trolley so what you're going to do is pick up your left trolley and pick up your extrusion and i just want to point out on the left side of the extrusion you're going to see three holes that are close together and this big hole right there and that's the way you want to orientate the extrusion when you put it on so that big hole is actually going to go over let me set it down this bolt right here that's already existing so when you place this on you're going to take two of your m4 by 16 bolts and this is just going to get screwed down so you'll take this and you'll flip it over there's the big hole there and hold it just like that and i found it's easier to actually turn it over and work with it on the bottom then what you can do is take one of your m4 by 16 bolts and you can actually if i can get it there set it in here with your fingers and get it started with your fingers i know that's a small space but get it started with your fingers like that and then grab your allen wrench and you can go down through the top hole and get it snug you don't want to tighten at this time now that you have both bolts here and your extrusion you just want to get these to snug no further so you don't want to tighten them all the way what you want is you want to make sure it's as close to straight as you can and if you're looking at it and another way to tell is if you match with this bracket it's pretty close to straight and that's what's going to matter at this point but you don't want it completely snug you want to be able to move it just a little bit in there for when we go on and install the x gantry so the next thing you want to do is grab your allen wrench and we're actually just going to back these two bolts off just one turn each so i've already made sure they're tight now what i'm going to do is put the small end of the allen wrench in and just back them one full turn off of each so there's one on that one and what that's going to do is it's going to loosen that guide a little bit for the z screw and we install it and there's one full turn on that one and you're good now we're going to move on to the fun part we're going to get the x gantry together so we're going to need the what we just put together so this is the extrusion that goes across this is the extruder and we just put that together we're going to actually take our hot end now and if you read it it'll say ender right up in this corner and that is how it goes on the extrusion so we want to make sure you're you're untangled here um untwist your cords and make sure that they're not tangled and then this will actually go on just like that and just make sure if you're looking at the front it says ender up here in the corner once we got the hot end on the extrusion here we want to take our whole gantry and we want to go ahead and place it on the left side just like this so then we want to take our wrench just like we did with the y eccentric nut the eccentric nut is right here we want to loosen it till it's very loose just so it so it's real loose and it wobbles a little like this and we're just going to go ahead and tighten it back just so it's tight enough that it rolls good but these wheels aren't slipping and you can still turn them a little bit with your hands like that so that feels pretty good so now we're going to take a roll of tape um you can use anything and just support that right off there so the nozzle doesn't crash so the next thing we're going to do is we're going to take the right side trolley that looks like this it looks like a triangle here and we're going to put it on with a long side facing in so it'll go in like this so we're going to do the same thing with the eccentric nut the eccentric nut is right here we're going to go ahead and loosen it way up so this wobbles on the plate you can probably even show you a little looser there you go so it wobbles then we're just going to tighten it step by step so it stops wobbling but so it's still loose and it rolls freely so once you've got your right trolley rolling good you can hold onto it and still turn the wheels with a little force we're going to bring it down and we're going to set it in about the position where the excantry comes across but you see here it doesn't stay because the extrusion is not touching it so what we need to do is we need to actually twist these extrusions so it matches it up and marries that and i'm going to change the camera angle and show you that now so what we're going to do next is as you see the right trolley we have it rolling good but it's not in line with our extrusion here so what we need to do is we need to hold our trolley and we need to rotate the left extrusion here just so it touches and we can rotate our right one a little bit so it lines up perfect so you don't want to force them but you want to rotate those two extrusions so you can see this is married up very well then the next step would be to take two of the m4 by 16 uh bolts and we're going to go ahead and put them in and one goes in this side of the back you might have to hold it to start the screwing there we go and the other one goes in right back here in the screw hole back here so i would hand tighten those to start and then what i would do once you got them going is grab your allen wrench and go ahead and tighten those up so the next thing we're going to do is take our top extrusion and i put the four m5 by 25 bolts in already and we're going to set that on there and what we're going to do is i'm going to get them a little hand tight here and then snug those up so there's four bolts here for the top extrusion so what we want to do is get our allen wrench and snug those up we're going to go ahead and do a final tighten of the bottom screws here so i'm just going to go ahead and lay it down so once it's laid down we're going to do a final tighten of the four uh bolts that are underneath here so i want to go ahead and take my allen wrench and we're going to use the small side and just do a final tighten to make sure they're good and tight and we're going to do all four so the next thing we need is our z stepper motor two m4 by 18p bolts our allen wrench and our z rod that we had before and this is in the protective layer still so the first thing we're going to do here is go ahead and set our stepper motor up there and i like to take these and put them on the end of my allen wrench go to tight and then i'll back it off two turns that way it's still a little loose okay so the next thing you want to do is take your z screw pull it out of the protective cover and we're going to raise our x gantry near the top of the machine this is important because in a few minutes we're going to measure and you want your x gantry near the top so go ahead and screw down your lead screw through that guide we loosened earlier make sure it fits good into your coupler and then go ahead and tighten it with the allen wrench that came with the machine and you can go ahead and tighten it down at this time so now that your x gantry is being held up you can actually spin it with the z rod back here it's not it should not fall down so we're going to take a ruler and we're going to go ahead and we're going to measure each side so i have 70 millimeters here and i have almost 80 millimeters there that means this side is quite high and i need to fix that because it's not level so we grab a hold like this and we pull down on this side that should lower this a little but you got to be careful because these wheels are still doing their job and holding everything up so let me go ahead and measure that's 75 and 80 i'm still not even close after i went through and adjusted this i just used the bar here and i and i kind of adjusted it through uh let's see how i did i got 90 millimeters there and i got 90 millimeters there what that means is we should be level or straight to the top bar and that's what we want if this becomes too loose where you can just go back and forth real easy you need to take everything off tighten these two screws a little bit and then put it back together and start this process again but this is a very important process that these need to be within one millimeter of each other so after you make sure you're level here and you're straight and you're within one millimeter what we're going to do is go ahead and loosen this grub screw and i'm just going to use the small end of the allen wrench and we're going to just take everything off here real quick okay once you got this top grub screw really loose and i like to get it really loose so the z rod will slide right out uh what you want to do is grab the x gate entry like this and just pull straight up and the z rod or z screw should come straight out of that coupler and you can go ahead and unscrew it and it should come out pretty easily and then when we get it all the way unscrewed we'll just set it down next to the printer now we're going to lower our x gantry down onto whatever you had holding it off the bed so the nozzle doesn't crash and the next step is just to remove that top rail just like we put it on before we're going to remove it now so once we got the top off we want to carefully lift the x gantry up and off and then we want to be careful not to crash our head here or the nozzle this is our nozzle under here we don't want to crash that into anything so what we need to do is go in and tighten the two screws you see here till they're fully tightened now the best way to do that is use the small side so you don't strip anything out if you come down like this and use the round side a lot of times this will strip out we don't want that to happen so use the small side get them nice and tight so this x gantry doesn't move so once we do the final tighten on those two bolts what we want to do is take our x gantry and go ahead and reinstall it onto the extrusions so it should go on just like that and we still should be rolling very smooth go ahead and rest it down like that on whatever you were supporting it off the bed with so the next thing we're going to do is just like we did before we want to fit our z rod and make sure we don't need a spacer down into our coupler so we're going to go ahead and raise that up you can screw it down in like that my arm is probably in the way and then what we want to do is when we're screwing it down we want to see if it falls in line or if it's spaced out a little bit so in our case i better give it a little more here whoop in our case it fell right in so if we look here um we don't have any gap and i know it's loose because we need to do the tightening still but what we wanted to make sure is that when we screwed it in from near the top that it went down in there with no problems so if it didn't go in and maybe it hit one side or the other and it just doesn't look straight that means we may need a spacer that goes between our stepper motor and the frame here temporarily to get by you can use a washer and you can throw it between here and then when you get your printer up and going you can go to thingiverse and we'll measure the gap here and print a nice spacer to go in between there then what we want to do is take and we want to raise it up just a little bit there should be about a two millimeter gap because you don't want this sitting all the way down so there should be about a two millimeter gap there raise it up just a little bit and then go ahead and tighten your coupler using that grub screw that brings us to the next step of fully tightening these two screws right here that we put these screws in or bolts in into this frame earlier but they were still loose so we know we're straight we know that we went in and we just need to go ahead and use your small end to get them about snug and then if I can see then you want to flip to your little end and just tighten them in so at this point we can put our top extrusion back on and I don't remember if I showed you this before but the bolts go in like this and there's a cutout so they actually will sit flush when they're tight so as I said before I like to put them in so I can line them up and then we'll go ahead and tighten those down so we've got our gantry on everything is nice and square it looks good we need to get our power supply on I set it in the back right there so I set it right here for now but what I'm going to do is grab the two screws that came with the kit I'm going to fish the screw through there find the top hole and turn my allen wrench so it secures it in then I'm going to go to the bottom screw that one in and come back to the top and tighten them so this one will go in and like that and we're all set next we need to put our z end stop back on and it goes on just where we found it it does look like we're going to have to raise it up a little bit but that's not a big deal just get those t-nuts in there and we can adjust it later when we actually go through the bed leveling process I'll post that video in the description as well so you can learn how to adjust this and level your bed pretty quick and easy just like we teach everybody when we build an ender three now we need to start cabling everything if you built your ender three you've already done this before I'm going to start with the z end stop push that in then we're going to go to the z stepper motor here after that we'll go to the xxt 60 connector to plug it in in the back it's a little bit tight so you might have to pull it out of the loom a little bit to make it work but it does work back there from there we'll go up here these look like they fit just fine we didn't go any higher on these cables so we should be good this is for your extruder so that'll go in here like this this is for your x motor so that'll go underneath like that and then the end stop will go in here like normal so all of those fit just fine now we need to install the y end stop and we can do that somewhere about right here we're actually going to test it once we get it fully installed and just make sure it's stopping at the right spot but let's get it on there you don't have to tighten it all the way just so it's loose enough to move and when we pull this back we want to make sure it's hitting it and in my case it's not so what I found is actually it needs to go all the way back on mine and then you can hear that click otherwise if I go too far forward it does not click so on mine it goes all the way back and now yours might be a little different but definitely try all the way back so you want to plug in your y motor underneath there make sure that's good and then your end stop in my case it's just barely reaching here so you may have to extend the y end stop cable a little bit here I thought they said it would work but maybe they changed the length of this cable I know that Creality does change up cable length and stuff like that so you just you never know if I really extend it here I can make it but I don't want to do that because I don't want to break this cable yet I'll probably just make myself an extension cable to go from there to there something they do give you in the kit is an extended Bowdoin tube so we're going to stuff that in there as far as it goes we're going to bring that over here and stuff that in there as far as it goes and now you have a brand new Bowdoin tube I'll probably put this all together and zip tie it but it is nice that they give you an extra uh actually I probably just upgrade this to tough tubing because I believe I have a bunch of tough tubing other than that we're just about done all right so we just went through the build for the Ender extender 400 kit that turned our 235 by 235 bed into a 400 by 400 monster uh it took a little while especially because I was filming it but it's not that bad it can be done pretty easily and all in all I think it's a pretty awesome kit there's a couple things we still need to do for a little bit there I jumped into some older video and I showed you how to put on the x gantry on your uprights I played that video because I've done it so many times I filmed it so many times I didn't necessarily want to film it again but it's all the same on this printer as long as your x gantry is straight and level then you're going to be good to go on any of these printers now this one is super long so it does have a little bit more play than the regular Ender 3 I think you can fix that by tightening your wheels a little bit more on this side just be careful you don't want to over tighten that also I'm going to reach out to mark over at Ender extender and see if they meant to send the extension cable for that why and stop there because it didn't quite reach as I showed you other than that what you need to do now is throw your bed on and get it level so mark was awesome enough to send me over this giant 400 by 400 piece of glass and this came in a box that says creality on it so I'm not sure if creality makes it or not it is fully wrapped up as you can see I'm not going to take it out quite yet but that'll fit on there just like that and that is that's pretty awesome that should be a nice flat surface for us to print on and I'm super excited to use that as a surface too this glass should be available on the website when you order your kit it's actually really thick I think it's going to be a great piece of glass for this job something you're definitely going to have to do is change your firmware and make sure that you change the printer size you want to make sure instead of 235 by 235 it says 400 by 400 I would suggest maybe the th3d unified firmware I really have good luck with that otherwise you can use marlin or any of the other firmwares out there from anyone else as long as you change the size of the bed to 400 by 400 you should be good well overall this thing is pretty dang awesome I really appreciate mark for sending me this whole kit we're going to be playing with more extensions later but for now in this video this is everything we had to do to turn our ender 3 into that 400 next we're going to do the XL which brings us way up to 500 over here that'll be a video coming up but maybe we'll do some other videos as well on the heatbed and some of the other fun stuff that they sent me but for now that's it I hope you guys learned something today and as always keep printing hey I hope you guys liked the video if you did give me that thumbs up hit that subscribe button right here in the bell to get notified anytime we go live on monday for hot makes or any other time we put a great video out like this you guys rock have you seen this one