 Welcome to today's class. Let's see if I can get this turned down. I got Danielle here with me today. Super excited to have you guys in the room with us. So before Danielle takes it all away, I just want to let you guys know that this class is sponsored by MinervaBeauty.com. So if you guys are looking for salon furniture, they're the best in the business. They got everything you need. So go check out MinervaBeauty.com. But also, just so you guys know, they are doing a giveaway right now until March 10th. They're giving away a ring light. If you don't know what a ring light is, it's the number one light you need in the salon to get perfect pictures of your work to share on Instagram and all the different social media platforms. So run over to MinervaBeauty.com. Fill it out. It's right on the front page. I'll show you guys later. At the end of the class, I'll show you how to do it. But without further ado, I got Danielle here. I'm going to be watching for your guys' questions. And Danielle's got an awesome class for you guys today. So here we go. Take it away, Danielle. Hi, everybody. Today, I'm going to be talking about relaxers. I know that right now, everybody is basically on the natural side and embracing that. And I'm totally with that, too. But I also like to give my clients options. And I don't like to shame people into making them have the type of hair that I think they should. I want to give them the type of hair that they want. So I didn't realize that a lot of people are transitioning back to relaxers now. On average, since 2019, there's about 40,000 clicks a month for natural hair back to relaxed hair. So why not take advantage of that? And I think one of the reasons that we got away from it was, and not to blame him, but Chris Rock talked about in a documentary, the effects of the creamy crack, which was from his show, the documentary, good hair. I personally never watched it. But yes, he gave a lot of education, but he also gave a lot of fear. And today, I just want to go over a little bit of color theory and also not color theory, chemical theory, so that you can understand and have a little less fear about relaxing hair and taking away that curl and how to safely do it. So I have clients that they have hair well past their shoulders. It's color-treated. It's relaxed. I've also transitioned a lot of people. So again, this is about giving your clientele the most of your talent. OK, so as you can see with my pre-done here, she has lots of swing. So it's nice and straight. I personally use the Affirm fiber guard relaxer. I just like it because the hair ends up being really, really soft, really pliable. It moves just like how hair is supposed to. And it still has a really great shine and everything to it. Now, a lot of the times people are afraid of different types of relaxers because they think that it's just going to break the hair. One of the reasons that you experience breakage is because curly hair itself is an elliptical shape. Elliptical means that it's got a rounded dome, but then it comes to a point. So if you think about how a curl turns on the rounded part of the curl, like the actual top part of it right here, that's where you have your elliptical shape, which is actually the thicker part of the hair. So right here, where you can see that little curvature, that's your elliptical shape. Now, where it skinnies out right here, that's where the hair starts to turn. That's actually the softer and sharper edge of your elliptical shape. And that's also where it makes a weak point when it becomes straight. So you never want to relax hair to a totally bone straight kind of formation. You always want to have a little bit of the curl shape in there. So you want to relax about 65% to 75% of the curl out of the hair in order to keep that elasticity. Because once you make it bone straight, that curvature that I was talking about becomes a weak spot in the hair. And that's what causes snapping. So always be careful of that. Now, just like what I talked about in our highlighting class, you want to go through and you want to detangle lightly. But with relaxers, they're very, very scalp sensitive, even though it's a no live formula. So just detangle from the mid shaft down. I usually hold it so that way I'm only combing out just lightly with a wide tooth comb the very ends of the hair. You never want to hit the scalp because it's going to cause abrasions. And abrasions can cause a lot of irritation. I had also talked about how you should advise your clients not to have any type of caffeine. Caffeine ends up increasing the blood flow, which leads to scalp irritation as well. So we've got a question here from Karen. She's saying, Danielle, I use design essential for my clients. What do you think about that relaxer? You know that one? I don't know that one. Actually, no. I think that might be a Sally's brand, which, if memory serves me right, that's a sodium hydroxide base, which that works very, very quickly, which that's the biggest difference between the lie relaxers and the no lie. All relaxers have a hydroxide in it. That's what breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair and reforms it. With your lie relaxers, they just work a lot faster. So that's where a lot of people have that fear of melting the hair, basically. No, I don't think that's a bad one at all. Just be aware that you do have to take more precautions with basing the scalp, doing some type of protector through the hair itself, because when it overlaps, it can cause a decent amount of breakage and scalp irritation as well. All right, so I'm just getting my little quadrants. Another thing that I like to do is I like to go off of whatever parting that somebody naturally wears. So if they're center, off center, if they have no part, then I'll bring everything back into a Mohawk section. So totally up to you on that. Again, just pay attention to the parting itself. I like to do that just because I feel like relaxers, kind of like when you're doing a flat ironing, wherever you flat iron the hair, it stays. And it's the same thing with relaxers. Once that hair is neutralized and it just has a memory for that same part, so that's where you can get hair flopping over into a middle part when you're trying to do a side part. So just be aware of that. Now, seeing as how this is a mannequin, she really doesn't have a preference. I'm just going to go with a regular middle part and my four quadrants. Now, the other thing to keep in mind is that there are base relaxers and non-base relaxers. So a base-free relaxer just means that you have to go in with some type of petroleum jelly or something like that. I like Affirm because they do have this product in their fiber guard collection called Preservo. So with this, just put that up, there we go. So Preservo just has a little bit of proteins and other moisturizers and buffers that can help to just keep the hair moisturized and also has a little bit of a buffer. And as you can see, it has a pH of 4.0, which is a little bit more on the acidic side and relaxers are very alkaline. Now, seeing as how we're using a no-lie relaxer, it's not going to swell the hair, which that's the other difference between no-lie and lie. So a lie relaxer will swell the hair. If you have color-treated hair, if you have damaged hair and they're swelling, that can actually cause cracking in the hair shaft itself. So again, that's why my personal preference is for either a potassium, calcium, lithium or guanidine. So Karen's saying you can't get that at Sally's, so you must just be thinking of a different one. Might be a different one. Yeah. We don't know every brand. Exactly. I just know my favorites and that's what I go with. All right. So what I do with the Preservo is just to keep it a little bit more on the professional side rather than and because it's a loose product, I don't put it on the back of my hand the way that I would have with like an old-fashioned petroleum jelly. So I just take a little bit of that, pop that into a bowl, because as you can see, it is quite drippy. So to me, it's just a more professional way of applying the product than slathering it all over the hair. Now, in the beginning of my career, I was not a big fan of using gloves for all of my services because of that, I am slowly becoming allergic to life. So always remember to put your gloves on. Okay. So I just take a little bit of that and I like to take a soft bristle brush. In this case, it's the Palm Mitchell Baleage brush and for a regular client, I'm not going to do any differently just because this is a mannequin. On a regular client, I'll go right around the edges with the Preservo, making sure that I'm getting right around the ears right in the hairline and just going all around the head with that. And just by using this little brush, I'm keeping it from just dripping down the face the way that it would if I would just slather this on with my hands. And again, it just makes it look a little bit more precise and a little bit more professional with your application. The other thing that I like about the Preservo is that this also not only goes on the hairline itself but it also goes into the hair as a little bit of a buffer today. I'm going to be showing how to do a virgin application. So I have just the little... Sorry about that. I just have this little tub from the Affirm Fiber Guard. Now what's great about this is that you can actually customize your strengths by combining that with the activator liquid. So with our little measure for our activator liquid, we can pick whether we want a mild, normal, or resistant level. And the only difference in those levels is how much of the hydroxide is in the relaxer itself. So it's not so much the activator as it is the cream. So we're going to go in with a little bit more of our Preservo. This you can be more generous with because as we know, curly hair, it's very, very thirsty. And it's also okay to get this close to the scalp as well or even on the scalp. It's not going to in any way affect how the product itself works. So always outline your sections. If you know that somebody is extremely color or chemical sensitive, then you can go through and without grazing against the scalp. So usually I'll go in just about midway through the hair and then sections. So I'm not touching the actual scalp. And like I said, using just that soft bristle brush, you can base in between those sections before you get into the relaxer itself. So totally depends on your consultation with your client on just how their scalp is feeling that day and what's been going on. So ask them, have you worked out this morning? Have you had caffeine of any kind? Have you been scratching your scalp? Did you take out braids? Did you do anything that manipulated your scalp and possibly caused any abrasions? Now you can leave your relaxer in this little container itself and it's a single use that depending on how much hair the person has, you can use this entire thing just for a retouch or if they have just a small amount of hair, then you can use the entire thing for a virgin application. I've found that with these mannequins that have about like a medium to high density, it takes about two of these. And I also like to keep that a little bit more on the professional side. So we'll just scoop that out. Now the differences in your strengths and the recommendations for it is that if you're using mild, then mild is more for color treated, sensitive scalp, and also for anyone that has say a little bit more of a damage to their hair. So seeing as how this is on the normal and more on the wavy side, I'm going to use the regular strength. Your resistant or your super strength, that's for your really coily and very strong, healthy hair. So I rarely have ever actually used the super or resistant strength. I usually go in with mild or normal. The other thing that I like to do is add olaplex to it. I won't be doing that today because there really isn't any cause for it. And then you can either mix that up with your brush or you can use a spatula, but you want to make sure that you're mixing that evenly because if you haven't and there's a couple of lumpy bits, kind of like when you're baking and you don't mix that correctly and you bite into something and it has that little dry powdery spot that doesn't taste quite right. That's kind of how the relaxer is. So if you don't mix this up completely, whatever those unmixed portions touched, it's not getting properly relaxed. So just mix that until you get to that really nice, smooth, creamy consistency. And again, I'm just using the Pulmichel Balayage brush. This is actually their wider one. So we've got those two different sizes. I like this wider one just because I can get to a larger section of hair. And especially with relaxers, everything is how we're hitting front and back of the hair. I want as much coverage as possible. Now for me, I usually like to start in the top section of the hair. Some people like to start from underneath. Total preference. So again, we're not going to go against the scalp. We're going to lift the hair. We're going to go about a quarter of an inch to a half inch away from the scalp and we're going to apply that same about a quarter of an inch away from the scalp. We're going to apply that top to bottom. And you're going to want to leave out just about the last inch of the hair because otherwise, that's going to over process. You don't want that against the scalp because again, that's going to cause abrasions. And we're just going to lay that over. Lift your next section, slice through. Now depending on the curl pattern, you can take slightly thicker sections because this is a pretty loose product. And then we're just going to continue through doing front and back of that section a quarter of an inch away from the scalp and about an inch away from the ends and just very repetitive light just go down the hair shaft. Now depending on your comfort level, you might take smaller sections. I'm pretty comfortable with this. And as I said, my brush is on the wider side so I can actually hit the entire section with it and I'm not missing anything. So a while back I had also mentioned about what chemicals to be aware of that you can and can't mix your relaxers with. The other sort of curl reducer that you can use is an ammonium thio. The difference between ammonium thio is that's what we use for perms. The only reason that with a perm it makes the hair curly is because we're using a rod. So a rod is basically the formation that it's taking during the neutralizing process. So on the pH scale, it's about a 10 whereas sodium hydroxide relaxers live anywhere from a 12 to a 13.5. And if you know anything about hair removal in there, there is a 14. You're melting hair. So yes, I can see where people would be very afraid of what this is doing to the hair but that's why I'm saying that knowing the science and why it does what it does will put you at ease. So ammonium thio and sodium hydroxide, they're not friends. They're not neighbors. They're not anything to each other. They're all enemies basically. They do not mix together whatsoever. So if somebody does have an ammonium thio on their hair, whether they have done a straightening system like the Japanese straightening, then sodium hydroxide is not for them because the minute that that gets put onto the hair, it melts. Daniel, how do you recommend somebody finds that out? Like how do they, you know, what's some questions that you asked in the consultation to kind of bring that out of people or so they're specific. So you don't end up overlapping. Overlapping or like using using with different types of relax. Yeah, that. Well, that's where obviously strand test is always the tried and true. So these days I was just talking about this today how I feel like people are a little bit more open to coming in for separate visits because now they're working from home. They have a little less, I guess, time constraints and a little bit more patience as far as not being in the building for a really long time. So they're okay with separating visits. So that's one way. A lot of people don't really know what's on their hair. They don't always ask questions. So you can ask them when you had your last straightening treatment, did it smell like rotten eggs? Oh, because all ammonium phyos, especially if you've done any type of perming, you know that smell. So if they say yes, then you're like, okay, I'm so sorry, but today I wouldn't recommend using any of our sodium hydroxide relaxers because that can be detrimental to your hair. And that's something that so just from a test strand standpoint and you know, I think it's something that we are pretty good at here. So when you have downtime, I think a lot of people like you should test out toners or test out, you know, just test things out. But also don't be afraid when you have a client in the chair to spend a little extra time, even just to be safe. And I think that's what makes us professional and what we do, just, you know, test out before you go all in and get it done. We talked about it yesterday in Brian's class, like you don't have to accomplish everything in one day. It's okay to get them, you know, to make sure it's going to be good and then schedule out accordingly so you guys have a plan in mind. And I totally agree with that, especially seeing as how, and I think Matt has talked about this in other classes of his, where giving somebody something to look forward to in their next visit. Yeah. I'm coming back because to them, and it's true because we all go home and we think about that client, even if it's something that we were quite proud of and it worked out perfectly, we still think, how could I have done that differently? How could I have made that better? So that really does go a long way into just separating you as a stylist from the person down the street. Yeah, for sure. All right, so now that we've worked through, got everything on that mid-shaft, now we're going to start working that through just with our hands. Because one of the popular misconceptions with relaxers and what we were taught in school was that you're supposed to use a comb or a brush or something like that, but because this is such a caustic chemical, it does the work itself. It's already breaking down those disulfide bonds and starting to reform it the minute that it touches the hair. So you don't need a comb to rake through it because all that's going to do is stretch the hair out more and by stretching it out too much, you're going to get that bone straight hair and then that's going to lead to breakage as well as overlapping in the next service. So I just like to tap that onto the root but it's not going onto the scalp and then I smooth. So I'm the worst with names, but this... maybe you can... J-feet? Jaffee? How fast do I have to go when applying relaxer for my client? Again, that totally depends on their curl formation. Everybody's curl is different if they have a tighter curl. Either way, you want to go quickly but not so quickly that you're pulling the hair and causing any type of tension problems. Now, you can use a mild or a normal relaxer and with Olaplex, I do find that that slows the action of the straightening process so that if you're a little slower, then that gives you a little bit of buffer time. Plus, with the Olaplex, it's a bond builder. It was literally designed to go into perms and high alkaline products. So that's actually helping to double some of those bonds because when we're doing the relaxer process, we're literally just reforming the bonds. We're destroying the disulfide bonds by taking away, you know, that extra sulfur. And right now, we're only pretty much left with some of those salt bonds. Now, we know that our hydrogen bonds are broken down whenever we wet the hair, but then they're reformed when they're dry. So when we're breaking down the disulfide bonds, that's through chemical action. That's permanent. That's it. It's never going to be the same again. And now we're forming this lanthanine bonds. So that's where the chemistry of it is really fascinating to me because that lanthanine bonds doesn't make it any different really in the sense that the hair moves or can dry in different ways. It's just that now it's not going to go back to its original curly state. Now it's going to go back into a straighter state because we've relaxed most of that curl out of it. So that's all that that really means is that we've altered the natural state of the hair. So when we go in with our neutralizer, that's giving it the memory that, okay, this is our new formation. This is where we live now. And then once you do your conditioning treatment, all of these are acidic. So they're now reforming all of your bonds and giving it that new memory. Same as how when you're doing a regular perm. So again, just massaging that through and seeing as how with this one it's already got a lot of emollience and other conditioners built into the formula plus it has the preservo. That's helping to keep the scalp nice and healthy and moisturized. It does like a very fine oil right against the scalp. Another thing that I like to recommend is that it's okay to have slightly dirty hair. That's fine because again, that's acting as a buffer. So as you're just smoothing that with your hands, you can start to see that the curl, it doesn't bounce up as much. And again, you don't want to completely relax the curl out. So once I see, especially with these ends, that it's just starting to look more like a wave than a curl, then I know, all right, it's time to take that off. We've relaxed out. As I said, 65, 75% of that hair. Sorry, I'm stuttering now. There's so much information with it, it's like I can't get it all out. I'm sure. I love it. It's my favorite thing, like when you just start going on all your chemistry nerdery. Yes, yes, I love it. Normally I would be wiping that section off because I had just had some of the relaxer touch against the scalp. So always keep a towel or something on hand, which Matt did ask me, what else do I need? I said, I'll probably figure that out when I need it while we're on camera. Need it? So always keep a towel on hand just to make sure that you're not getting any of the relaxer on the skin and you can just wipe that off and very gently. So you don't want to go in and wipe that off. You just want to gently wipe it. And then I usually have my preservatives still on hand and then I just reapply that so that there's no irritation. So just always keep an eye out for what's going on with the rest of the hair, the skin and everything because you want this to be as pleasant of an experience as possible. Now on this side, I was just going to do our virgin application and then on the other side, I wanted to show just a root retouch. But I think just to let you see how this works out, I'm going to go and do just like a normal relaxer on this side and a virgin application. So you can see what I mean about the difference between just the level of hydroxide that's in there and how it makes it a little bit looser in consistency. So we got a couple of questions in here. I want to see Laurie as I just joined what product you're using. We're doing a relaxer today. So we are using a firm fiber guard. Now a firm fiber guard is literally what it said. It's just got extra fibers in there that help with the overall elasticity of the hair. So that's why I personally like it. Some people like products that are a little thicker in consistency. So there are relaxers that you can use that they're already premixed. They come right out of the tub with the firm relaxer, especially the fiber guard. It's a two-part system. So you have your cream and then you have your activator. And then you can choose which strength that you want. So as I said earlier, for mild, that's going to be for your fine, color-treated and your chemically over-processed hair. For a regular that is for your normal to curly and wavy hair types, and then resistant would be for your extra curly or even your Z-pattern kind of curls. And so... Zelda's asking how often for the touch-ups? Oh, thank you for reminding me, Zelda. Okay, so the other thing to remember is that most of the time, people see any type of growth. They want to put a relaxer right on it. So that's about four or five weeks. Personally, I wait between eight and 12 weeks because otherwise you're over-processing the hair. It's constantly going to be disrupting the natural oil in the scalp or the sebum, which for curly hair, it has a harder time making its way down the hair shaft. Later, it's a little bit easier. But again, because we're using that guanidine-based relaxer, you want to make sure that you're doing at least every two to three weeks a clarifying shampoo that helps to get rid of any of the calcium deposits and then a moisturizing treatment so that way you can put in all of the amino acids, lipids, and proteins that are lost in the actual relaxing form. All right, so I'm going to wipe off a little section here so you can see what I mean. I wanted to actually keep this working because seeing as how it's a mannequin head, I can totally let this go bone straight and see and let you see why this is not what we want. Because then the hair, to me, it gets a little stringy and a little spongy. Now with this, you can still see that there's a little bit of a wave to the hair. So that's what you want to see whenever you're relaxing the hair. So this is not one of those services that you walk away from, and that's it. This is something that you're basically babysitting your guests and you're staying with them. Now when I rinse this, so again, you can see that there's just that little bit of wave to it. I'm going to let the rest of it process so you can see that bone straight kind of result that I'm talking about, that we don't want, which there's still a little bit of wave to the end so that tells me right off the bat, no it's not bone straight just yet. Chemical hair straighteners, as I said before, it's either a sodium hydroxide, which is a lie relaxer, works a lot faster, swells the hair shaft because it's about a 10 to a 12. On the pH scale, it's slightly milder so that is something that I would say I would use on more Caucasian hair strands. If somebody has really coarse hair and they're not African American, then yes, I still can go in with a sodium hydroxide. I would just go in with a mild and Olaplex so that way I'm not totally melting the hair and as I said, they can have actual color treatments and things like that. You just have to be a little bit more aware that with lighteners, you would have to use something that is lower in pH so like palmitial lighten up or even palmitial sinker lift soft. Those are great for chemically treated and curly fine hair because they only have about seven levels of lift but they also have like a beeswax base or a potato starch base so they're very conditioning for the hair. Also, demi-permanent, they're great even if you're just using a clear glaze for just sealing down that cuticle layer because again with the relaxer process you are, if you're not using a live relaxer that swells you're still doing an alkaline process that needs to be safely brought down so then when I'm rinsing obviously we can't really show that right now in the studio but I normally use a very low to medium water pressure I have it in the direction that the hair has been laid so most of the time I have that away from the scalp or I have that straight down so I would be pointing the direction of the water or the nozzle straight down or away from the scalp whichever way that I have smoothed the hair and the biggest difference with that is that you're not ruffling that cuticle layer because if you ruffle that during the rinsing process when you go to neutralize then the hair has that memory to stay raised and frizzy so you don't really want that. After you rinse everything out then sustenance is the next step in the relaxer process for a firm and this one's great because it's got a 4.5 pH level and that again is a very important thing and pH is the most important thing in all of the relaxer process we always want to be bringing that back to a 4.5 to a 5.5 because that's where healthy normal hair lives so the sustenance is very very thick the hair strand is already wide open so I think of it like a drawer when you open a cluttered drawer it's full of all kinds of things you're flinging stuff out, you're cleaning it out that's kind of what the relaxer process is like now we're going to safely put in all the things that we want the hair to have so sustenance as I said has a lot of those amino acids, lipids, proteins and a lot of like little fiber polymers that help to attach to the hair because it's in that wide open state and seeing as how those protein molecules are really really large it's easier for them to slip into that cuticle layer and get right into the cortex where it can affect that permanent change basically so I usually screw the top off because this is such a thick product that I don't really feel like having arm day so excuse me, this doesn't look very professional but you will see what I'm talking about in one second so when this comes out it is an extremely thick thick product almost like how a texturizing construction paste is so these are all of those nice little silk polymers and fibers that I was talking about that like to attach to the hair so you would put that over the entire head lightly comb that through leave it in for about 5 to 10 minutes rinse it again with a load of medium setting temperature wise you want it to be warm but you don't want it to be scalding hot and then you would actually use your neutralizing shampoo so neutralizing shampoos they usually again have another pH of about like 4 so that is below the normal hair because we are really tightly shutting down that cuticle layer over the top of the hair also they come equipped with a pH scale that is color coded so if you haven't rinsed out all of the relaxer it will turn pink pink lets you know that the relaxer is still in there it is still working we need to do a couple more so it's basically like a light clarifier or a she-lating shampoo and then after that you don't technically have to go in and use another conditioner but I personally like to use some type of a detangler detanglers again just help to fortify the hair soften it and that way when I go in to blow dry the hair is perfectly soft and I don't have to use a whole lot of products so would we have any more questions? we do have a couple questions okay so is this similar to perming like back in so I think they call relaxing is perming right? is it the same process? you have to ask because that's always been like a hard thing for me because I've always worked in mixed salons so somebody will call for a perm and the receptionist will think it's a spiral perm when actually it's a relaxer right so it does depend you can refer to it as a perm if you're using the ammonium thio but to me I'm like I still call it a perm because they're permanent results the hair is never going back so it's just a verbiage thing it's really not that detrimental the process doesn't change process doesn't change this whole relaxing process has not really changed since its inception and like I believe it was about like the 20s or the 30s that happens and really it's just all of the different buffers that have been added in so relaxers that have actually changed alright so Bruno's got a question here could you determine the result by doing a not strand test to see if it's ready to be rinsed off I'm not sure if I'll like put it in a knot well that's where I would never twist the hair up I'm always going to keep that in its naturally laid formation because again we're reforming the bonds themselves so the hair is pretty weak at that point until you neutralize exactly so you just want to be as careful with the hair as possible now this is what I was talking about where you don't want it bone straight because now it has absolutely no life in it it's very spongy so that's why even though you can keep that on 25 to 35 minutes you really have to just pay attention to your client's personal like how can I put this know their regimen if they do a lot of different treatments on their hair like they were natural and they used to do a lot of highlighting then no they would be relaxing their hair without using either a mild calcium based and Olaplex in there and you only want that to be on there for maybe like 5 minutes now what you would notice is that much like with highlighting the hair when you over highlight you start to notice that kind of sponginess as you're giving the hair just a light stretch it's over processed which purposely did that so that you can see that difference whereas on this side where we had taken that out and just rinsed it it doesn't have that extra stretch and that sponginess that this section over here has kind of hard to relay on camera but like I said we all know how hair stretches when it's wet and also how it stretches when it's over processed so you never want it to get spongy for me the longest that I've ever left a relaxer on even with the extra buffers was about not even 20 minutes and I was there the whole time just babying the hair giving it some love and paying attention to also how does my client's scalp feel so I constantly check in with them how does your scalp feel is that okay sometimes if I notice that it hasn't straightened enough then I spray and I've mentioned this pretty much in every class because it's my major go-to is the palmitial hydromist because that helps to just soothe the scalp a little bit and that's great for relaxers plus it's great for perms and it's not going to interrupt or intervene with the product at all if anything it's actually going to help it to keep working even though you've wet down that section and stop some of that irritation that's all because of the botanicals like the sea extracts spirulina, plankton and it just helps to soothe that's it awesome would you use this on gray hair yes the only difference with gray hair is that you can depending because this is a metallic base sometimes the hair can actually turn like a little greenish or a little bit yellow depending on what medications or if they have well water or something like that so obviously it's very easy if it turns yellow then you're using a purple shampoo or something like that it is okay to use a low level low pH demipermanent color right after a relaxer you just don't want to use anything that has like a 5, 10 20 or more volume because the hair is very fragile right now so if you're going to do a color service you're going to want to wait at least like two weeks for the scalp to kind of reset get that normal like sebum oil process going again and then you can even do a conditioning treatment beforehand or same day as your color treatment just to keep the overall health of the hair sweet a couple more questions Amy she's got a big one here what type of relaxer would you recommend to result in the least amount of daily styling I love my curls but I would like to be able to get up and go in the morning without always getting it wet well that's where if you're talking about for your hair just from what I'm seeing in your lovely picture I would say go with an ammonium thio I believe it's Chi has a pretty good one that is low in pH has a whole kit it all comes in one really don't have to buy a whole lot of extra like shampoos and things like that then same thing regular conditioning treatments and not relaxing your hair completely straight so you can wipe off a little bit of that product see that the hair bounces up a little bit same way that you would when you're unwinding a perm rod and you want to see that there's that s formation that's what you want to see with your hair so just lightly smooth it don't pull it apply the product lightly smooth leave it on check it every 2 to 3 minutes and then once you get to that wave that you like rinse and neutralize sweet what do you think of Mizani that was actually the first relaxer that I used and I do like their butter blend sweet and is it harder to work with 4C hair with the application technique would you adapt the sections I wouldn't really adapt the sections I would just be using a lot more conditioner so like the preservo or any type of relaxer line that has a mulliant rich so a firm Mizani I spent a lot of years it was a brand that was known as Hawaiian silky I don't know I still have that it was a very long time ago and that was like a kitty perm basically okay she says yes butter blend and then there was the last one Zelda was just asking about using an edger around the hairline to hold you over until the time for your full touch up you ever heard of that if you're talking about like like the little straw curling irons I used to use those just to like lightly glaze over my edges so that I can straighten them or if you're comfortable with using like say the oven where you can heat up your hot tools that was another way of just smoothing the edges pretty much like a silk press if that's what you're talking about sweet and this I know the answer to but I'm just going to put up there so we can say it because we not recommend a hair snob a non professional doing this ever because obviously if you listen back to this and you listen to the amount of knowledge that Daniel has inside of her brain you didn't learn all of that today so I would go to a professional like Danielle there's definitely thousands of them out there you can find them that understand this the chemicals and the technology and what's best for your type of hair it's not the same always so definitely not this is a professional thing and besides that this is literally the accessory that you're wearing every single day so one of the things that you can run into by doing relaxers yourself is that you're always going to have something touching the hairline that vellus hair baby hair whatever you want to call it it is very very sensitive it gets all of the washing all of the sun your makeup in it you're cleansing that out with all kinds of harsh facial cleansers and things like that so that is actually the last part that you want to do thanks for reminding me to touch that because if you could see my little temples right here they only just started growing in and I went natural five years ago and that was from years and years of like no I need to lay my edges it is fried it's dyed it's inside and it's perfect and I paid for it with fitting my hairline out a little bit so you always want to do your hairline last because it's the most sensitive both in how much love it's getting daily and also because vellus hair is designed to be a little bit softer than the rest of the hair one more go through here because star is asking what the prep is before the service on the hair like besides the hairline stuff because we did that but what would you tell your client with my client as I said try not to manipulate it too much before the service or the day of the service so if you're going to be brushing it do that at least like two days before because if you're doing a bore bristle brush and that hits especially right along the edge of your hairline you're going to get irritation um what else um also no tight ponytail because again that has now pulled the hair made it a lot more sensitive right at the root in the follicle itself so nothing that is going to hurt the hair now when it comes to hairline hair it's right in the front that I apply last now in the back what some of us like to call the kitchen that I actually go in and do as soon as all of my sections are done and I leave that on for just a little bit longer why don't we call it the kitchen I'm just wondering why well back in the day kitchens weren't part of your house you had to walk out of the house to get to the kitchen because that was a fire hazard so this is the back of your head the kitchen I like it just trying to decide if I needed to use that in hair cutting but that's nothing but no I don't alright I know where can I get a firm where do you pick it up at you can order that through Cosmoprop they have it in their stores as well it comes in a large box of about nine applications and one of these depending on like how much hair somebody has sometimes I will actually open one up only take about half of the cream and then when it comes to the activator I'm mixing about I'm still mixing up to the mild marker and applying that in because again the activator has to be equal to the cream itself sweet alright guys well go give Danielle a follow on Instagram if you want to keep up with her knowledge and everything that's going on in Danielle's life you can go check it out there and all of her work I swear I am going to get so much better at posting regularly yeah go give her a hard time on there that's what you should do my boss is way too nice about it she does have a lot of great work on there but she should put it more often I take the pictures I just for some reason don't post them and it's like oh it's been a week but who cares that person still has their hair that's true alright let's show the we got the end result there even though we showed it at the beginning we'll show it again we will show that again what I'm doing here you can see what this head was like because this was the original texture on this one as well and I did the entire head I had used pomachal products because well those are my favorites and I just I love the performance of them everything that is botanically based is basically my best friend and I'm a hair care nut so that's why for me pomachal was and is my go to because it doesn't know genders it doesn't know different hair types it doesn't know different types of people it just knows that hair is hair you have corns, you have medium I am way out of frame because you ended up being over you were in the right spot but you were teaching the whole class on this side so I moved it I've been chasing you Daniel this whole time and it's good alright cool so this is your end result where now you got some nice swing to the hair and it's still nice and shiny and malleable just the way the hair should be awesome and guys just know that Daniel is going to be here every single Thursday times do shift a little bit so just make sure you're on our app FSE now watch this Daniel this is going to cover your face here we go yep you got to move to the other side I kind of like her a little bit so FSE now if you download the app you can get on the app store on any of the app stores let me just see if I can it's locked this is what happens there we go hey look Daniel is back there you guys can pick up the app on the app store it's free all this education you can watch the replays you can watch all of our past classes but Daniel is going to be she's here every Thursday guys so tomorrow I'll be doing styling and finishing and also remember that you can go to Minerva beauty's website if you're looking to win a ring light let me actually just show you guys um back to this there's Daniel again yep there we go let me go show you guys the website real quick pop that up this is their Instagram the one thing is go follow Minerva on Instagram because so many different inspirations for your salon beautiful pictures of different salons but let's go to minerva beauty.com I will never forget going to that warehouse it was a hairdresser's dream for sure so here is the enter to win right here on the front page so once you hit enter you'll just I think you have to do two things you have to put in your email address your Instagram handle and then go follow them on Instagram and you can win you guys you know you can't win if you don't try and it's definitely um a must have in the salon if you don't have a ring light so go check it out alright I think that's it I hope you guys enjoyed um Daniel's class let me see if I can you're gonna be hidden again out of she's behind me you guys can see her back there there she is so go follow Daniel be here every Thursday if you guys have questions I did see a few more questions hope you guys really liked it um yes it was very informative that's my favorite part about Daniel she's very informative um and she's here every Thursday so if you guys want to keep up with her make sure that you follow us on social media and hit that notification button subscribe to the channel so you get alerts every time we go live and that's pretty much it thank you guys so much anything else you want to say well see you guys next week and we will be doing some styling next week seeing as how we've done chemicals and a little bit of technique work so I will be showing how to get a very great result from a twist out in a rod set alright we'll see you guys where you are stay safe