 What's up guys? Welcome to the vlog. Before we start, I want to encourage you all to sign up for FSE Social. Thad's on there. You guys, we're having great conversations on there. There's a ton of stylists. Over 2,000 stylists have signed up already in one week. Everybody's sharing their work, being very open to putting themselves out there, also asking questions, just getting involved in the community. So thank you to everyone that is doing that. If you haven't signed up yet, go to fsesocial.com. Download the app. Sign up. It's really easy. It's free. All the cool kids are doing it. All the cool kids are doing it. Hop on. So hope to see you guys there. Let's get started with the vlog. Here we go. All right guys. So on today's vlog, what we're going to do is we're going to focus on a classic haircut. Now this classic haircut is graduated Bob, an A-line Bob. So I want to go through, do a classic shape for you guys and show you how to detail it dry. So that's the main focus here. I hope you guys enjoy this. We're going to get started with our step by step. Thanks for watching. Let me know what you think in the comments. Here we go. All right guys. So we're going to start off the haircut on the left hand side of the head. We're going to continue that parting down center back. So we're going to, you can see that nice vertical section right there of vertical parting. And then I'm going to work diagonal forward. It's a very slight diagonal forward from that vertical parting down to the nape of the neck. So just taking out a small little triangle in the back. Now you really want to focus on finger angle here. This is the base of your graduation. So I think this is where a lot of people might start their graduation going a little too heavy. And then by the end, when they work their way up the head, they realized that it was way too heavy and wasn't what they were looking for. So just make sure that when you choose your finger angle, you know how much weight you're trying to leave on. Most of the time the questions that I get are what do I do on fine hair? What do I do on thick hair? Well, obviously the base is the most important part. So how I create my finger angle right here is going to determine how the haircut lays. So if they have really thick hair, then I'm going to be working with more of a 90 degree angle kind of like I am right here. So as I work up the head, I get a nice soft feel to the layers. They stack up nice, but it's still almost more of a layering technique than it is graduation. Now as I work up the head right past the occipital bone, you can see how the head starts to curve away so that angle completely changes and it creates more weight in the haircut. So it's really important to focus on the head shape, how the head shape is moving throughout the haircut, because it's going to determine how heavy your graduation is. If somebody has finer hair and you decide to go really heavy with graduation, it's going to lay really flat. So there's a lot of different things. You've got to take it client by client to really decide exactly how you want to cut this haircut. You can't go in and do the same exact angles I'm doing right here and get the exact same result on every single head. So just really focus on the more density they have. You don't want to necessarily keep a low elevation. So just understand why you're doing things and you're definitely going to get a better result. So as I'm working up the head, you can see that top part where the top of my fingertip is. You can see the angle of that is at almost zero degrees. So when we go to blow dry this haircut in a little bit, you're going to see how much weight gets built up because of that angle that we're holding the hair. Then we're going to go in and do some dry cutting techniques to soften it, but I really like having that I wanted this haircut to have the heaviness kind of sitting right at that occipital bone area. I wanted a lower graduation on the haircut. So if you wanted more of a stacked back on this haircut, which a lot of people ask for, you could definitely just use a higher elevation. You're going to get more layering, more stacking of the layers and more texture and movement and stuff like that. So just working through, I've now moved into vertical partings, doing one side completely, and then I'm going to move over to the opposite side and work on that. I like staying as consistent as possible. So if you try to go back and forth from side to side, I think you just lose consistency. I know that I do. If it works for you, then go for it. But for me, I like to stay consistent, keep working in those partings all the way through the head, moving them back to the exact same place every time and just keeping the consistency. Now the big shift here is that my fingers are now pointing down. So all has to do with comfort. So you can see how far forward I kind of have her head tilted. The reason I would tilt the head that far is for my own comfort, so that I can get in there with the scissor. A lot of people think that the more you tilt your head, the more graduated the hair is going to be or things like that. It's going to make the hair curl under. That's not necessarily the truth. The truth is the more I am comfortable with the haircut, the better the outcome is going to be and the better I can create these angles with my fingers. So just move the head to where you're comfortable cutting. So I'm just working through everything's coming back to a stationary guide in the haircut. So I'm over directing everything to the center back. This is a big key thing here. Again, I like to talk about multiple outcomes of the haircut. If I didn't want so much weight going forward or if this guest had really thick dense hair, I probably would not over direct the hair as far back as I am now because it would create way too much weight too quick around the ear. So you see those guests that have the dog ear kind of heavy density sitting on the side of their head. A lot of that has to do with the over direction and the elevation. So just make sure that as you're working through the head, keep the density in mind and you'll be good to go with that. So now that I've gotten to the corner, now everything's just going to come straight back to the corner. Keeping that guide, you could see that I'm always working, always seeing the guide from the previous cut so that I know exactly what I'm doing. If you don't see that guide, you've taken too much hair. It's much smarter to start over, grab another clean section, work through it. This definitely happens with me during these videos. Obviously, I don't always show that part, but sometimes I comb through and I don't see my guide. So I go back in and re comb and clean up a section. So I'm working with the 339 comb. A lot of you guys are kind of tool nerds out there. I love that. So 339 comb from YS Park. This is the Orange Edition from Mizetani. So it's kind of special comb that we have here. And I'm using a Mizetani DB20 scissor. This is the one I talk about in pretty much every video. This is your first free salon education video or vlog of mine. It's my go-to scissor. It's a 5.7 inch scissor, nano powder metal steel. It basically means that it's a softer metal. So it grips the hair really well, creates a nice clean, precise line. Mizetani is the only scissor that has that technology. So it's just a fantastic scissor to have. So just going through, keeping that vertical section. This is very, very similar on both sides. You're going through doing the same thing. The only thing that makes it difficult, and this is something that I struggle with, is that when I'm working on the right side because my elbow is up in the air, I want to drop my elbow. So I get a little bit of heaviness on the right side, which is something that I keep mentally working on and why I love having these vlogs, because I can see those things and I can see myself cutting hair. It's definitely a cool tip for you guys out there. If you are looking to better your hair cutting, you can film yourself cutting hair. You don't necessarily have to show it to everyone if you don't want to, but definitely try it out, because you can see everything that you're doing and things that you could change. So now we're going through same scissor, still my DB20. I can cut with dry hair with it as well. That nano powder metal really grips the hair even when it's dry. So I'm going through just working that line. I did not edit out a lot of this. I just sped it up really quick, because I wanted you guys to see how much work I actually put into creating that line, because I think a lot of people think it just happens in the wet cut, and that's not necessarily true. So going through working that line with the tip, I go through with the tip first, because if you try to cut all of that with just a blunt scissor, it's going to push the hair. You're not going to create the line that you wanted. Then I go through with the flat blade just to clean that line up throughout the back. So working it through with the tip, you saw a little bit earlier. I've moved my scissor sideways, kind of worked up the hair just to clean up that graduation a bit. Any of the loose hairs I see sticking out. Now I'm going to go through the side, flat with my blade, and create that A-line feel to the haircut as well. Love the shape of this cut. And just so you guys all pointed out now, this mannequin is kind of creepy. This is not a pivot point mannequin, which I usually use. I had this one laying around, decided to cut it off, and the hair was a little bit more of a struggle, and it has a really creepy face. So I apologize for that. So going through, finishing up using the tip of the scissor. Now I'm going to do a little trick. This is actually a Josh DeMarco trick, and I don't know where he learned it from, or if he just started doing it, but I was teaching a class with him, and he sprayed firm hold hairspray on the model, and then he went through and cut the precise line. So I use the Bercato firm hold hairspray. I really love the hold of that. Spray it on there, comb it down, and then I cut my line. It's like a perfect line for doing photo work, or even just your guests in the salon to get that precise line. Now you guys wanted to see some texture shear stuff. So that little bit of heaviness that we had at the occipital bone from our elevation, I go through with my Type Z dual texture scissor, and just break up that line. I'm going to do a few different techniques here. So right now I'm just taking horizontal slight diagonal forward section, and going through and working that line out with the dual texture. The thing I love about the dual texture is both sides have teeth, and because they both have teeth, it allows the scissor to just glide through and not pull the hair. So I go through there, horizontal section, working that line. Now I'm going to go through with a point cutting technique using the texture scissor. So I point cut down, and I just slide out, and it creates a nice movement and texture. You can see the depth from the hair color that Brian did underneath. It's really cool. So we're just finishing up a few more times with the texture scissor. This is all looking at it. It's all based on your eye and getting the hair exactly where you want it. So if you guys like this video, definitely let me know in the comments. I'm going to finish it up with a little brocado hairspray, and that is the cut. I really love the shape of it. Let me know what you think in the comments. Also let me know on fsesocial.com. When you download the app, let me know what you thought of the video as well. Thank you guys so much for watching.