 Chapter 15 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 If Parties Dispatched, King's Wanderings Among the Blacks, Mr. Howard's Proceedings, He discovers King, rescues him. Interment of the Remains of Mr. Burke and Wills. Distribution of Presence to the Natives. The Committee, having fully considered the circumstances adverted to in the preceding chapter, determined to lose no time in taking measures for the relief of Mr. Burke. They accordingly organised a party. Footnote. In addition to this party, another was sent round in a steamer to the northern coast, and several search parties were dispatched by the neighbouring colonies. End of footnote. Under the leadership of Mr. Howard, a gentleman of much experience in the colony, from whose efforts it was hoped that beneficial results might accrue, and tidings be obtained of the gallant men in whose fate the entire colony had now become deeply interested. Before detailing Mr. Howard's proceedings, however, it will be necessary to return to King, who, having done all in his power towards attending to the last wishes of his chief, whose eyes he had closed in death, had returned to Mr. Wills' gunia. And finding him also dead had buried him as well as he could. He then remained on the spot some days, to recover his own strength. His narrative proceeds. Finding that my stock of Nardu was running short, and being unable to gather it, I tracked the natives who had been to the camp by their footprints in the sand, and went some distance down the creek, shooting crows and hawks on the road. The natives, hearing the report of the gun, came to meet me, and took me with them to their camp, giving me Nardu and fish. They took the birds I had shot, and cooked them for me, and afterwards showed me a gunia, where I was to sleep with three of the single men. The following morning they commenced talking to me, and putting one finger on the ground and covering it with sand, at the same time pointing up the creek, saying, White fellow, which I understood to mean that one white man was dead. From this I knew that they were the tribe who had taken Mr. Wills' They then asked me where the third white man was, and I also made the sign of putting two fingers on the ground and covering them with sand, at the same time pointing up the creek. They appeared to feel great compassion for me when they understood that I was alone on the creek, and gave me plenty to eat. After being four days with them, I saw that they were becoming tired of me, and they made signs that they were going up the creek, and that I had better go downwards, but I pretended not to understand them. The same day they shifted camp, and I followed them, and on reaching their camp I shot some crows which pleased them so much that they made me a breakwind in the centre of their camp, and came and sat around me until such time as the crows were cooked, when they assisted me to eat them. The same day one of the women, to whom I had given part of a crow, came and gave me a ball of nadoe, saying that she would give me more, only she had such a sore arm that she was unable to pound. She showed me a sore on her arm, and the thought struck me that I would boil some water in the billy, and wash her arm with a sponge. During the operation the whole tribe sat around, and were muttering one to another. Her husband sat down by her side, and she was crying all the time. After I had washed her I touched it with some nitrate of silver, when she began to yell, and ran off crying out, Macau, Macau! Fire, fire! From this time she and her husband used to give me small quantity of nadoe both night and morning, and whenever the tribe were about going on a fishing excursion they used to give me notice to go with them. They also used to assist me in making a golly, or breakwind, whenever they shifted camp. I generally shot a crow or a hawk, and gave it to them in return for these little services. Every four or five days the tribe would surround me, and ask whether I intended going up or down the creek. At last I made them understand that if they went up I should go up the creek, and if they went down I should also go down. And from this time they seemed to look upon me as one of themselves, and supplied me with fish and nadoe regularly. They were very anxious, however, to know where Mr Berkeley, and one day when we were fishing in the waterholes close by I took them to the spot. On seeing his remains the whole party wept bitterly and covered them with bushes. After this they were much kinder to me than before, and I always told them that the white men would be here before two moons. And in the evenings when they came with nadoe and fish they used to talk about the white fellows coming, at the same time pointing to the moon. I also told them they would receive many presents, and they constantly asked me for Tomahawks, called by them Bemaco. From this time to when the Relief Party arrived, a period of about a month, they treated me with uniform kindness and looked upon me as one of themselves. The day on which I was released, one of the tribe who had been fishing came and told me that the white fellows were coming, and the whole of the tribe who were then in camp sullied out in every direction to meet the party, while the man who had brought me the news took me across the creek where I shortly saw the party coming down. Mr. Howard then, as has been said, being dispatched with the Reliefing Party, proceeded on his mission, and from his interesting diary the following passages are taken, as affording in conjunction with the papers which follow. The fit is conclusion to the story which these pages are intended to record. September 3, Camp 21. Latitude, 28 degrees, 22 minutes. Longitude, 142 degrees, 31 minutes. Started at 8 o'clock and left the expedition track at Poria Creek. Struck a course for Coopers Creek, northwest, by Compass. For seven miles, travel over sand ridges running northeast and southwest, with wide clayy valleys between them, in which were occasional small pools of muddy water. The feed everywhere very dry, but tolerably plentiful on the sand hills. Bushes and small mulga trees were growing in places. We here crossed a drybox swamp, where crows, wood swallows, kites, and small birds were numerous. And I observed here several trees with a rough bark for assembling cork, and with bunches of long-pointed dark green leaves growing at the ends of the small branches. The sand hills here became low and flat, and the valley wider. Shortly afterwards, crossed the track of a large camel going northeast, apparently about eight months ago. The country undulating and well-grasped, and as far as I could make out, the water shed both to the northeast and southwest. At 12 o'clock after crossing a dry swamp full of water courses and passing a low sand hill, came on a creek running southwest. Thickly timbered with large boxed trees, the bed wide and the banks deep, and in several places large pools of clear water. Marshmallows and other vegetation, now perfectly dried up, were on the banks. Native camps were numerous, but none that I saw were very recent. Mussel shells and the claws of crayfish were lying near them. I have every reason to believe that some of these pools are permanent. Crossing this, we passed several branch creeks running through a clayy plain, and all lined with trees, large pools of water in several. I named this creek after the honorable David Wilkie M.D. M.L.C. On leaving the clay flats at the creek, we again crossed sandhills and undulating country for several miles, mostly well-grasped, but much burned up. Salt bush and cotton bush plentiful in the hollows, and scattered timber beginning to appear. At half-past two came on a watercourse running north, and containing large but shallow pools of water. The feed roundabout, excellent, and enough timber to be called a thin gum forest. The gums here are new species not before seen by us, several feet of the butt having a rough semi-persistent bark, above which it is smooth and greenish with a red tint, leaves thick and glossy, very much resembling one growing near Omeo. Ducks here very tame, camped having made 18 miles and country not looking so well ahead. The general fall seems to be to the westward. Some lard, the largest of our camels, lay down just before reaching the camp. He is the only one off the lot that has not improved in condition, and he keeps himself poor by constantly watching the other camels and driving them away from the females. He only carries 200 weights. September 6, camp 24, latitude 28 degrees, longitude 142 degrees, two minutes. Left camp shortly after six. The horses had not fed during the night, partly from thirst, partly being afraid of the stones. Follow down a gully leading into very stony plains, which we cross for several hours, being obliged to lead the horses very slowly. No timber and scarcely any vegetation. The most desolate stony wilderness imaginable. About 10 o'clock came near the sandhills, and the country improved as regarded traveling, but not for feeder water. On a dry water course came on a party of natives, of whom some ran away, the others consisting of an old gray head man, an old hag of a woman, a younger man, and two or three lubris and children waited until I rode up. They were in a very excited state, waving branches and jabbering incessantly. The younger man shook all over with fright. Sandy could not understand them, and I could only catch gow, go on. At last, by the offer of a knife, I prevailed on the old man to come with us to show us the nearest water. But after half a mile, his courage gave way, and he climbed up a box-tree to be out of reach. Mr. Brar rode up to him when he climbed into the top branches, jabbering without stopping for a moment, finding that he would not come down and kept pointing to the north-west, our course. We left him. All the natives were naked, and the old man was the only one who had any covering for his head, Annette. We here entered undulating sandy country, slightly scrubbed and well-grasped, and, at the same time, came on Brar's downtrack. Our horses at once struck into a better pace, going at least three miles and a half an hour. The camels also pushed on well. The loose horses kept wide off the track, looking out for water in the polygonum ground, and at ten minutes past twelve, one old stager found an ample supply in a channel on the right hand. The horses at once made a rush, and it was almost impossible to prevent them drinking as much as they wished. Three had, for the last hour, shown unmistakable signs of giving in, and all were very much pinched with thirst. And by the water, in first-rate feed. Rain came on steadily from northeast shortly after, and has continued. The horses have just been a third time to water. September 9, Camp 26, latitude 27 degrees 49 minutes, longitude 141 degrees 38 minutes. While loading up this morning, five black fellows made their appearance on the opposite side of the creek, and, as usual, commenced shouting and waving their arms. We cooied in return, and one waded across, but waited on the bank until I broke a branch and beckoned him to come up. The others then followed him. They were all fine, well-built young men, with open intelligent faces and very different from the natives usually met with. They wore nets wrapped around their waists, and one apparently the headman had his front teeth knocked out. Sandy said he could only understand Naranghi word they said, but I believe he could not understand them at all, as he was quite unable to make them comprehend that I wished to know if they had seen any straight camels about the creek. Before we finished loading, they returned to the opposite bank and sat down watching us. On our starting, they waded across to our camp, probably to pick up anything left behind, which would be very little. Today we travelled over earthy plains for 13 miles. They were cracked in every direction and covered with a network of channels. In times of flood, the whole of them must be under water, and I can scarcely imagine anything more luxuriant than the appearance of these plains after a wet season. At present, everything is dry and withered, but everywhere the stalks of marshmallows and other flowering plants are as high as a horse's back and very close together. The tufts of grass line each side and cover the bed of the watercourses. Here and there, clumps and lines of timber mark the course of the larger creeks, and sandhills rise like islands from the plains. To the south of west, at about nine miles, we had a range, probably stony, and following its base, a strongly marked line of timber, which I believe to be the main creek. No floods appear to have come down for two seasons, and waterholes which were horribly well-filled five months ago are now dry or nearly so. At thirteen miles crossed a branch where Burke's marked tree forty-one stands, and camped at a clay pan under a sand hill about a mile to the west. Strong breeze from the northeast and north, all day and steady rain at night. Near here I observed for the first time a new tree, with a rough, scaly bark and thick foliage, the leaves small and oval and set in pairs on a stem. The tree grows to fifteen or twenty feet, and bears numbers of flat brown pods, each containing from five to six hard-light brown beans, known by us as the Bean Tree. September 10, camp twenty-seven, latitude twenty-seven degrees thirty-nine minutes, longitude hundred and forty-one degrees thirty minutes. The rain sees shortly before sunrise, and the travelling was, in consequence, very heavy. The earthy plains being not only soft as before, but sticky. Shortly after leaving camp saw several natives on a sand hill making signs. I went up to them with Mr Welch, and after a great deal of trouble persuaded one to come to me. He was a fine-looking fellow, painted white, skeleton fashion, and carried a very long boomerang, stuck in his girdle behind. I could make nothing of him, except that he gave me a small ball of what seemed to be chewed grass as a token of friendship. And in return I gave him a piece of cold dough-boy I had with me for lunch, which he seemed to relish very much. We travelled till noon over a succession of earthy plains, broken by numerous box channels, one of which contained a large reach of water, but the feed everywhere was miserable, dry, and scarce. The country looks wretched. After passing this channel, seven natives made their appearance, one of whom Mr Brow recognised as one of the party who tried to surprise the depot last season. They presented him with a small quantity of some dried plant, from a bundle which one of them carried. It had a strong pungent taste and smell, and I am at a loss to conjecture its use, unless as a kind of tobacco. Our black boy was frightened, and told me he thought they meant to look out, kill him, as I understood, by witchcraft or enchantment or poison. They followed us at a distance to our camp, where they sat down a little way off, making signs that they were hungry and wanted tomahawks. After an hour's waiting they decamped. Killed two deaf-adders and a snake of a sulphur colour on the track, halted near a small pool of water where there was a little green feed, which has become a rarity. The country looks miserable ahead. Travelling very heavy on the horses, as the mud balls in great lumps, stony ridges to the south of the creek at about four miles, and a good deal of timber visible on all sides. Weather still threatening rain flies very troublesome. September 13, Camp 30, latitude 27 degrees 38 minutes, longitude 141 degrees. Made a short stage today for the sake of feed for the horses, which is a thing to be considered from the dry appearance of the country. Reached the depot, fought wills in three miles, through country rather better than we have seen for some days. More rain has fallen here lately than elsewhere, and the grass is just springing, but too short to be of much use. I believe this is to be the first rain for many months. The water all down the creek, as far as we have come, has fallen at a rate of about three feet in the last four months. Found the depot as Mr. Brown left it. The plant untouched, and nothing removed of the useless things lying about but a piece of leather. But from the very evident fact that these things are buried, I cannot understand why the natives have not found them. From here, followed down the creek for several miles, and camped at some sand hills near a pool of water. Saw here the track of a large camel going up the creek. The small crested pigeon, spoken off by sturt, numerous. Cool wind from southeast. September 14, camp 31. Latitude 27 degrees 42 minutes. Longitude 140 degrees 4 minutes. Camped on a large waterhole about a quarter of a mile below Mr. Burke's first camp after leaving the depot. We could see where the camels had been tied up, but found no marked tree. Today I noticed in two or three places old camel droppings and tracks, where Mr. Brar informed me he was certain their camels had never been, as they were watched every day near the depot, and tied up at night. Mr. Burke's camels were led on the way down. It looked very much as if stray camels had been about during the last four months. The tracks seemed to me to be going up the creek, but the ground was too stony to be able to make sure. September 15, camp 32. Latitude 27 degrees 44 minutes. Longitude 140 degrees 40 minutes. On leaving this morning, I went ahead with Sandy to try and pick up Mr. Burke's track. At the lower end of a large waterhole, found where one or two horses had been feeding for some months, the tracks ran in all directions to and from the water, and were as recent as a week. At the same place, I found the handle off a clasp knife. From here, struck out south for a short distance from the creek, and found a distinct camels track and droppings on a native path. The footprint was about four months old and going east. I then set the black boy to follow the creek and struck across some sandy country in a bend on the north side. No tracks here, and coming on a native path leading my way, I followed it as the most likely place to see any signs. In about four miles, this led me to the lower end of a very large reach of water, and on the opposite side were numbers of native whirlies. I crossed out a neck of sand, and at a little distance again came on the track of a camel going up the creek. At the same time, I found a native who began to gesticulate in a very excited manner, and to point down the crack, balling out, gow, gow, as loud as he could. When I went towards him, he ran away, and finding it impossible to get him to come to me, I turned back to follow the camel track and to look after my party. As I had not seen anything of them for some miles. The track was visible in sandy places and was evidently the same I had seen for the last two days. I also found horse tracks in places, but very old. Crossing the creek, I cut our track and rode after the party. In doing so, I came upon three pounds of tobacco, which had lain where I saw it for some time. This together with a knife handle, the fresh horse tracks and the camel track going eastward, puzzled me extremely, and led me into a hundred conjectures. At the lower end of the large reach of water before mentioned, I met Sandy and Frank looking for me, with the intelligence that King, the only survivor of Mr. Burke's party, had been found. A little farther on, I found the party halted, and immediately went across to the Blacks' whirlies, where I found King sitting in a hut which the natives had made for him. He presented a melancholy appearance, wasted to a shadow, and hardly to be distinguished as a civilised being, but by the remnants of clothes upon him. He seemed exceedingly weak and found it occasionally difficult to follow what he said. The natives were all gathered round, seated on the ground, looking with the most gratified and delighted expression. Camped where the party had halted on a high bank, close to the water, I shall probably be here ten days to recruit King before returning. September 16, Camp 32. King already looks vastly improved, even since yesterday, and not like the same man, having commenced shooing horses and preparing for our return. Wind from southwest with signs of rain, the natives seem to be getting ready for it. September 18, Camp 32. Left camp this morning with Mr. Sbrah, Welsh, Wheeler and King, to perform a melancholy duty which was weighed on our mind ever since we have camped here, and which I have only put off until King should be well enough to accompany us. We proceeded down the creek for seven miles, crossing a branch running to the south wood, and followed a native track leading to that part of the creek where Mr. Burke, Mr. Wills and King camped after their unsuccessful attempt to reach Mount Hopeless, and the northern settlements of South Australia, and where poor Wills died. We found the two Ganyas pretty much as King had described them, situated on a sandbank between two water holes, and about a mile from the flat where they procured the Nardu seed, on which they managed to exist so long. Poor Wills remains, we found lying in the whirley in which he died, and where King, after his return from seeking for the natives, had buried him with sand and rushes. We carefully collected the remains and interred them where they lay, and not having a prayer book, I read Chapter 15 of 1 Corinthians, that we might at least feel a melancholy satisfaction in having shown the last respect to his remains. We heaped sand over the grave and laid branches upon it, that the natives might understand by their own tokens not to disturb the last repose of a fellow being. I cut the following inscription on a tree close by to mark the spot. W. J. Wills. X. L. V. Y. D. S. W. N. W. A. H. The field books are notebook belonging to Mr. Burke, various small articles lying about, of no deep value in themselves, but now invested with an interest from the circumstances connected with them, and some of the Nardu seed on which they had subsisted, with the small wooden trough in which it had been cleansed, I have now in my possession. We returned home with saddened feelings, but I must confess that I felt a sense of relief that this painful ordeal had been gone through. King was very tired when we returned, and I must most unwillingly defer my visit to the spot where Mr. Burke's remains are lying until he is better able to bear the fatigue. September 19, Shoeing Horses. A very slow and troublesome job, as many have never been shot before, and our forge is of the most primitive description. This afternoon got the pigeons in order of flying. Their tails being rubbed down by travelling so far in a cage, I got the tails from several crested pigeons and inserted feathers in the stumps of our carriers, fastening the splices with waxed thread. The plan answered far better than I had expected, and the birds can now fly about the aviary we have made of a tent with the greatest ease. September 20, Start of the pigeons at daybreak, each with a message fastened to its legs. On throwing them up, they commence wheeling round the camp, but separated, one being chased by one of the large kites, which are always hovering about the creek. After flying around in various directions with great speed, they gradually drew across the creek. When we lost sight of three, the fourth after making a large circle, pitched in a tree about a mile off. After breakfast, he was found under a bush with a kite watching him, and the feathers of one of the other pigeons was found not far off, having been killed. Of the two others, nothing has been seen, and I hope that they got clear away, but I am much afraid that the experiment has proved a failure. However, I should have thought more off it if the pigeons had made a more decided start. Last night, the wind changed from northeast to southwest and brought up a slight shower. This morning, southwest, with heavy clouds threatening rain. King improving slowly, but very weak. Turned out the white pigeon again this afternoon. He flew into a gum standing in the camp and has taken up his quarters there, not a proper proceeding for a carrier pigeon, according to my ideas. September 21. Finding it would not be prudent for King to go out for two or three days, I could no longer defer making a search for the spot where Mr Burke died. And with such directions as King could give, I went up the creek this morning with Mr's Brow, Welsh, Wheeler and Aitken. We searched the creek upwards for eight miles and at length, strange to say, found the remains of Mr Burke lying among tall plants under a clump of box trees, within 200 yards of our last camp, and not 30 paces from our track. It was still more extraordinary that three or four of the party and the two black boys had been close to the spot without noticing it. The bones were entire with the exception of the hands and feet and the body had been removed from the spot where it first lay and where the natives had placed branches over it to about five paces distance. I found the revolver which Mr Burke held in his hand when he expired, partly covered with leaves and earth and corroded with rust. It was loaded and camped. We dug a grave close to the spot and interred the remains wrapped in the Union Jack, the most fitting covering in which the bones of a brave but unfortunate man could take their last rest. On a box tree at the head of the grave, the following inscription is cut. R-O-H-B, 21, 9, 61, A-H. September 22. The pigeon still keeps its quarters at the camp and comes down to feed now and then. I have removed the message and shall leave it to its fate. It has been trying hard to rain for two or three days but does not seem able. Great clouds drift over looking ready to burst but only squeezes out two or three drops and then pass over. I expect fully that it will clear up without rain. Another dry season will make Cooper's Creek look fearfully miserable. When the hot weather comes on the waterholes, many of them will be dry unless filled by rain or a flood. I have written down King's narrative as much as possible in his own words. Shall annex it to this diary. Finish showing the horses. September 23. Went down the creek today in search of the natives. One of the party accompanied me and we took two days rations in case it should be necessary to prolong our search. Two days after we camped here, the natives left and have not been seen since. And I could not think of leaving without showing them that we could appreciate and reward the kindness they had shown to Burke's party and particularly to King. For three miles we travelled over alluvial flats along the creek, timbered with box and large gums and dotted with bean trees, orange trees of larger size but at present without fruit, various kinds of acacias and other bushes. To the right hand, level flats and sand ridges, apparently tolerably grassed. We then came on a large reach of water where four or five natives had just been fishing. Their nets were lying on the sand to dry and the fire yet burning. Not seeing anyone about and getting no answer to a kooee, we went on. At three miles more, we passed the first feeder of Sturlescu's Creek going to the Southwood and at a large reach of water below found the natives camped. They made a great commotion when we rode up but seemed very friendly. I unpacked my blanket and took out specimens of the things I intended giving them. A tomahawk, a knife, beads, a looking glass, comb and flour and sugar. The tomahawk was the great object of attraction. After that, the knife but I think that the looking glass surprised them most. On seeing their faces, some seemed dazzled. Others opened their eyes like saucers and made a rattling noise with their tongues expressive of surprise. We had quite a friendly palaver and my watch amused them immensely. When I gave them some of the sugar to taste, it was absurd to see the sleight of hand with which they pretended to eat it. I suppose from a fear of being poisoned which I suppose is general. As our black boys are continually in dread lest the wild black fellow should poison them by some means. I made them understand that they were to bring the whole tribe up next morning to our camp to receive their presence and we parted the best of friends. The names of the principal men are Chakalau, Mangali, Three and Numbah, Takunta, Pichery, Three and Numbah, one a funny little man with his head in the net and a kite's feather in it, another a tall man with his beard tied in a point, Prurikau and Boracau. September 24th. This morning about 10 o'clock our black friends appeared in a long procession, men, women and children, or, as they here also call them, Pikuninis and at a mild distance they commenced bawling at the top of their voices as usual. When collected all together on a little flat just below our camp they must have numbered between 30 and 40 and the uproar was deafening. With the aid of King, I at last got them all seated before me and distributed the presence. Tomahawk's knives, necklaces, looking glasses, combs among them. I think no people were ever so happy before and it was very interesting to see how they pointed out one or another who they thought might be overlooked. The Pikuninis were brought forward by their parents to have red ribbon tied around their dirty little heads. One old woman, Karawal, who had been particularly kind to King was loaded with things. I then divided 50 pounds of sugar between them, each one taking his share in a Union Jack pocket-hank chief, which they were very proud of. The sugar soon found its way into their mouths. The flour, 50 pounds of which I gave them, they at once called white fellow Nadu and they explained that they understood that these things were given to them for having fed King. Some old clothes were then put on some of the men and women and the affair ended in several of our party and several of the black fellows having an impromptu carobery to the intense delight of the natives and, I must say, very much to our own amusement. They left making signs expressive of friendship carrying their presence with them. The men all wore a neck girdle and, of the women, some wore one of leaves, others of feathers. I feel confident that we have left the best impression behind us and that the white fellows, as they have already learned to call us, will be looked on henceforth as friends and that, in case of emergency, anyone will receive the kindest treatment at their hands. September 25 at Camp 31. This morning I turned my face homewards. The object of our mission being fulfilled, I had to do so, but I returned with a great regret at not being able to go on. We take back five months rations from this date at the scale we have been using and which has proved sufficient. The party are in the best of health, the horses in fine order and the camels none the worse for their journey and decidedly in better health than when they left the darling. On the edge of a country so well worth exploring, in a terribly good season and with the means I now have at my disposal, I feel how much might be done. We camp today at our last camp at one coming down the creek, making an easy stage for King. Got in by noon as the horses were very fresh after their spell. The camels gave us a good deal of trouble this afternoon and from a course which may and probably will constantly occur. One of the male camels had taken to driving the females about and fighting with the other male, Sama, who up to this time had been master. Today the other camel was furious and in spite of being short hobbled and having his head tied down to his knee, chased the whole of the camels from the camp ten minutes after they were let loose and although Bra went immediately after them and was for three hours on their tracks, he was unable to overtake them. Coming back for a horse, he took Sandy with him and cut across to where he had left the tracks, running north over some very rough stony country. It was dark before they returned, having found the camel some miles away. From this and similar occurrences, I find it very unwise to take male and female camels together on a journey. One is never safe for a day from their straying and from continual fights between the male camels for mastery. Their result is that the camels are continually harassed and watch each other instead of feeding. With either all male or female camels, there would be less or certainly not more trouble than with horses. And with this drawback I firmly believe in the suitability of camels for exploring. End of Chapter 15. Chapter 16 of Robert Ahara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Magda Lena Cook. Robert Ahara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson. Chapter 16. Report of the Royal Commission. Dispatch from the Government of Victoria. Reply of the Duke of Newcastle. Victoria, by the grace of God of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Queen, Defender of the Faith. To our trusty and well-beloved, the Honourable Sir Thomas Simpson Pratt, KCB, the Honourable Sir Francis Murphy, Speaker of our Legislative Assembly, the Honourable Matthew Hervey MP, the Honourable James Forrester Sullivan MP, and Evelyn Pitfield Shirley Sturt, Esquire, all of Melbourne in the Colony of Victoria, greeting. Whereas the Governor of our Colony of Victoria, with the advice of the Executive Council thereof, has deemed to expedient that a commission should forthwith issue for the purpose of inquiring into all the circumstances connected with the sufferings and death of Robert Ahara Burke and William John Wills, the Victorian explorers. And whereas it is desirable to ascertain the true courses of this lamentable result of the expedition, to the said Robert Ahara Burke and his companions, and especially to investigate the circumstances under which the depot at Cooper's Creek was abandoned by William Bra and his party on the twenty-first day of April last, and to determine upon whom rest the grave responsibility of there not having been a sufficient supply of provisions and clothing secured for the recruiting of the explorers on their return, and for their support until they could reach the settlements, and generally to inquire into the organisation and conduct of the expedition. Also, with regard to the claims upon the Colony of the surviving members thereof, and of the relatives, if any, of the deceased members. Now, know ye that we reposing great trust and confidence in your integrity, knowledge and ability, have authorised and appointed, and by these presents do authorise and appoint you, Sir Thomas Simon Pratt, Sir Francis Murphy, Matthew Hervey, James Forrester Sullivan, and Evelyn Pittfield Shirley Sturt, to be commissioners for the purpose of foreset. And for the better effecting the purpose of this commission, we do give and grant you power and authority to call before you such persons as you shall judge likely to afford you any information upon the subject of this commission. And to inquire of and concerning the premises by all other lawful means and ways whatsoever. And this commission shall continue in full force and virtue, and you the said commissioners may, from time to time and at every place or places, proceed in the execution thereof, and of every matter or thing therein contained, although the inquiry be not regularly continued from time to time by adjournment. And lastly, that you do report, as occasion may require, for the information of our Governor of our said Colony, under your hands and seals, all matters and things elicited by you during the inquiry under this commission. Witness our trusty and well-beloved Sir Henry Barkley, Knight Commander of the Most Noble Order of the Bath, Captain General and Governor-in-Chief of our Colony of Victoria, and Vice Admiral of the same at Melbourne this twelfth day of November, 1861, and in the twenty-fifth year of our reign, Henry Barkley, by his Excellency's command, signed R. Heels. Report. To his Excellency Sir Henry Barkley, Knight Commander of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath, Captain General and Governor-in-Chief of the Colony of Victoria, and Vice Admiral of the same, et cetera, et cetera. May it please your Excellency. In conformity with the terms of Her Majesty's commission, we have made inquiry into the circumstances connected with the sufferings and death of Robert O'Hara Burke and William John Wills, the Victorian explorers. We have endeavored to ascertain the true courses of this lamentable result of the expedition and have investigated the circumstances under which the depot at Kerpers Creek was abandoned by Mr. William Brar. We have sought to determine upon whom rests the grave responsibility of there not having been a sufficient supply of provisions and clothing secured for the recruiting of the explorers on their return and for their support until they could reach the settlements. And we have generally inquired into the organisation and conduct of the expedition. Our investigations have been confined to the above matters. The government having already taken into consideration the claims on the colony of the surviving members of the expedition, et cetera. We have examined all persons willing to give evidence who professed or whom we're supposed to possess knowledge upon the various subjects of our inquiries. And we now, after mature consideration, submit to your Excellency the following report. The expedition having been provided and equipped in the most ample and liberal manner and having reached Menendee on the Darling without experiencing any difficulties was most injudiciously divided at that point by Mr. Burke. It was an error of judgment on the part of Mr. Burke to appoint Mr. Wright to an important command in the expedition without a previous personal knowledge of him, although doubtless a pressing urgency had arisen for the appointment from the sudden resignations of Mr. Landells and Dr. Beckler. Mr. Burke evinced a far greater amount of seal than prudence in finally departing from Cooper's Creek before the depot party had arrived from Menendee. And without having secured communication with the settled districts, as he had been instructed to do, and in undertaking so extended a journey with an insufficient supply of provisions, Mr. Burke was forced into the necessity of overtaxing the powers of his party, whose continuous and unremitting exertions resulted in the destruction of his animals and the prostration of himself and his companions from fatigue and severe privation. The conduct of Mr. Wright appears to have been reprehensible in the highest degree. It is clear that Mr. Burke, on parting with him at Toriwoto, relied on receiving his immediate and seller support, and it seems extremely improbable that Mr. Wright could have misconstrued the intentions of his leader so far, as to suppose that he ever calculated for a moment on his remaining for any length of time on the Darling. Mr. Wright has failed to give any satisfactory explanation of the causes of his delay, and to that delay are mainly attributable the whole of the disasters of the expedition, with the exception of the death of Gray. The grave responsibility of not having left the largest supply of provisions, together with some clothing in the cage to Cooper's Creek rests with Mr. Wright. Even had he been unable to convey stores to Cooper's Creek, he might have left them elsewhere, leaving notice at the depot of his having done so. The exploration committee in overlooking the importance of the contents of Mr. Burke's dispatch from Toriwoto, and in not urging Mr. Wright's departure from the Darling, committed errors of a serious nature. A means of knowledge of the delay of the party admin indeed was in the procession of the committee, not, indeed, by direct communications to that effect, but through the receipt of letters from Drs. Becker and Becquah at various states up to the end of November. Without, however, awakening the committee to a sense of the vital importance of Mr. Burke's request in that dispatch that he should be soon followed up, or to a consideration of the disastrous consequences which would be likely to result, and did, unfortunately, result, from the fatal inactivity and idling of Mr. Wright and his party on the Darling. The conduct of Mr. Bra in retiring from his position at the depot before he was rejoined by his commander, or relieved from the Darling, may be deserving of considerable censure. But we are of opinion the responsibility far beyond his expectations devolved upon him, and it must be borne in mind that, with the assurance of his leader and his own conviction, he might each day expect to be relieved by Mr. Wright. He still held his post for four months and five days, and the only when pressed by the appeals of a comrade sickening even to death as was subsequently proved his powers of endurance gave way, and he retired from the position which could alone afford succure to the weary explorers should they return by that route. His decision was most unfortunate, but we believe he acted from a conscientious desire to discharge his duty, and we are confident that the painful reflection that 24 hours further perseverance would have made him the rescuer of the explorers, and gained for himself the praise and approbation of all must be of itself an agonizing thought, without the addition of censure he might feel himself underserving of. It does not appear that Mr. Burke kept any regular journal or that he gave written instructions to his officers. Had he performed these essential portions of the duties of a leader, many of the calamities of the expedition might have been averted, and little or no room would have been left for doubt in judging of the conduct of those subordinates who pleaded unsatisfactory and contradictory verbal orders and statements. We cannot too deeply deplore the lamentable result of an expedition undertaken at so great a cost to the colony, but while we regret the absence of a systematic plan of operations on the part of the leader, we desire to express our admiration of his gallantry and daring, as well as of the fidelity of his brave co-agitor, Mr. Wills, and their more fortunate and enduring associate, Mr. King. And we would record our feelings of deep sympathy with the deplorable sufferings and untimely deaths of Mr. Burke and his fallen comrades. T.S. Pratt, Chairman, Matthew Hervey, E.P.S. Sturt, Frances Murphy, J.F. Sullivan. Copy offer dispatch from Governor Sir H. Barkley, K.C.B., to his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, K.G. Number 92, Government Officers, Melbourne, November 20, 1861. My Lord Duke, the mystery in which the fate of the Victorian Exploring Expedition was shrouded when I lately alluded to it, was soon afterwards dispelled on the arrival of Mr. Braf from the Relief Party. Under Mr. Howard, with intelligence that King, the sole survivor, had been found living among the natives on Cooper's Creek, his companions Burke, Wills, and Gray, having perished from exhaustion on returning from the Gulf of Carpentaria, which it now appears they reached in safety in the month of February last. How thoroughly indeed the Gallant Band accomplished their perilous mission will be seen from the journals and charts of their leaders, which are fortunately preserved to us and serve incontestably to prove that, without detracting from the credit due to MacDonald Stewart, whose route was unknown to them, and far distant from that they followed, to Burke and Wills exclusively belongs the honour of first crossing the Australian continent from sea to sea. The details of their discoveries and of their sufferings will be best learned from the simple and touching narrative which Paul Wills left behind him, coupled with the statement of King, which has been taken down by Mr. Howard. But I will continue for your gracious information the brief sketch of the history of the expedition begun in my dispatch of 20th July, number 64. I then mentioned that Mr. Burke had quitted the depot on Cooper's Creek on the 16th December last, with half his party leaving the other half there under Mr. Brach, whom he promoted to the rank of petty officer on the occasion. But with the expectation that the command would almost immediately be assumed by Mr. Wright, whom he had directed to join him as soon as possible with the stores left behind at the Darling. And I described how Mr. Brach, after waiting beyond the time Mr. Burke had anticipated being absent and hearing nothing either of his or Wright's party, abandoned the depot on the afternoon of the 21st April, first burying such provisions as he could spare after retaining enough to carry him to the Darling. It now appears that on the evening of that very day, by a strange fatality which seems then sparse to have prevailed to the end, Burke, Wills and King, Gray having died four days before, reached the depot in far too weak and exhausted state to follow the retreating party with the slightest hope of overtaking them. So that night they slept only 14 miles off. They found the food that had been left for them, and after remaining some days to recruit, resolved most unfortunately, instead of returning the way they had come to try and reach the out-settlements of South Australia, not above 150 miles distant. Had they taken the route to Menindy, they would have almost immediately met Mr. Wright's advancing party, which had been delayed by courses already related. Depositing a letter therefore to this effect in a bottle, which they replaced in the cage, but again by fatal mischance neglecting to alter the inscription, which Mr. Brar had left on an adjacent tree, or to leave any outward sign of their visit, they started on a south-west course. But misfortune pursued their steps. One of the two camels which survived got bogged inextricably, and the other became so weak that they thought it best to kill it for food. And after wandering on till their limbs could carry them no farther, they decided to return at a point where, though they knew it not, scarce fifty miles remained to be accomplished. And just as Mount Hopeless would have appeared above the horizon, had they continued their route for even another day. Meanwhile Brar, as described in my previous dispatch, revisited the depot in company with Wright, whom he had met some days after leaving it. But perceiving no change, they, as a climax to this sad chapter of accidents, resumed their final journey to the Darling without opening the cage, or discovering the letter which Burke had substituted for theirs in the bottle. Thus left to perish in the wilderness, the Hopeless explorers determined as a last resource to seek secure from the Aborigines, whom they had at first viewed with suspicion. This was freely and generously afforded, so far as it was in their power to give it. But the season was now mid-winter, the clothes of the unfortunate were in rags, and the scanty diet of fish and gnar-dew, the spores of a species of mycelia which the natives make into bread, was too un-nutricious to restore frames weakened by previous overexertion and want of nourishment, and with minds depressed by disappointment and despair, both Burke and Wills gradually sank under their privations, dying about the end of June, whilst we in Melbourne were still ignorant of the abandonment of the depot, as well as of the obstacles which so long delayed Mr. Wright's arrival at it. So felt too as glanced spirits as ever sacrificed life for the extension of science or the course of mankind. Both were in their prime, both resigned comfort and competency to embark in an enterprise by which they had hoped to render their names glorious. The natives died without a murmur, advancing their loyalty and devotion to their country to the last. Robert Ahara Burke, born in 1821, was the second son of James Hardenman Burke of St. Clarence County-Goreway, an estate now possessed by the eldest son, Major Burke, late 88th Regiment. The younger son, Lieutenant Burke R.E., fell at the passage of the Danube in July 1854, by no less than thirty-three wounds. Robert, like him, commenced his career as a cadet of the Woolwich Academy, but left at an early age to enter a regiment of Hungarian hussars in the Austrian service. When this was disbanded in 1848, he obtained an appointment in the Irish Constabulary, which he, in 1853, exchanged for the police force of this colony, of which he was at once made an inspector. On the news of the Crimean War, however, he hastened home on leave of absence in hopes of getting a commission, but finding himself too late to share the glories of the campaign, returned to resume his duties here, in the discharge of which he rendered himself most popular at some of the chief goldfields towns. When the exploring expedition was resolved on, his love of adventure and thirst for distinction led him to apply for the command, and in the interval which elapsed before the exploration committee decided in his favour, he devoted himself with his habitual energy to qualifying himself for such a post in every possible way. William John Wills was born at Totnes, Devonshire, where his father practised medicine in 1834 and, being destined for the same profession, entered at St Bartholomew's, and distinguished himself, especially a student in chemistry. In 1852 the news of the gold discoveries induced him to try his fortune in this colony, and he settled at Ballarat, where he was subsequently joined by his family and continued to assist his father for several years. His taste, however, had always been for astronomy and meteorology, and he passed all his leisure hours at the office of Mr. Taylor, the head of the Crown Land Survey in that district, where he gave such proofs of ability as to be put in charge of a field party. Here he soon attracted the notice of the surveyor general, Mr. Lega, and on the establishment of a magnetic and meteorological observatory in Melbourne under Professor Noumayer, he was attached specially to the staff, where he remained until selected for the post of observer and surveyor to the exploring expedition, with which his name will ever be indelibly associated. He, too, is not the first of his family to lay down his life for his country. His cousin, Lieutenant Levis Comte, Dr. Will's sister son, having accompanied Sir John Franklin in the Arribas on the Arctic expedition. Gray, it may he be added, who died of exhaustion on his way back from Carpentaria, was originally a seafaring man who Mr. Birken listed on the Darling, whilst John King, who alone lives to tell the tale, and may be expected in Melbourne shortly, was formerly a soldier, who, it is stated, came to this colony on obtaining his discharge from some regimen in India. How far the sufferings of these devoted men arose from preventable courses, and in what degree any person or persons are to blame for the disastrous termination of a scheme, apparently so carefully devised, and which up to a certain point was eminently successful, a question still to be determined, and regarding which I express no opinion, because a commission has been appointed by this government to investigate the whole matter. The liveliest sympathy was manifested by the entire community on receipt of the glorious, though disastrous, news. Both houses of parliament passing resolutions expressive of profound regret at the death of the explorers, and of an earnest desire that every mark of respect should be shown to their memory. And it has since been settled, in pursuance of these resolutions, that Mr. Howard shall be commissioned to send down their remains for a public funeral, and that a monument shall be erected to record an achievement of which Victoria may well feel proud. Now part, indeed, from their interests which must ever attach to the melancholy fate of these brave men, the results attained by the expedition are of the very highest importance, both to geographical science and to the progress of civilisation in Australia. The limits of the stony desert are proved to extend very little farther north than the point to which Sturt penetrated so many years ago, whilst the country beyond it even more adapted for settlement, than that which MacDill Stuart has discovered to the westward of it. According to the summary which poor Burke himself deposited on his return to the depot, there is a practicable route to Carpentaria, chiefly along the hundred-and-fortieth meridian of East Longitude. There is some good country between Cooper's Creek and the stony desert, from thence to the tropic all is dry and barren, but between the desert and the gulf a considerable portion, though rangy, i.e., hilly, is well watered and richly grassed. It has been remarked, too, by the transcriber of Willesfield Book, that the expedition, except when actually crossing the desert, never passed a day in which they did not traverse the banks off or cross a creek or other watercourse. Such, in fact, is the impression made on the squatters by the accounts received, that the occupation of Burke's land with stock is already seriously contemplated, and there seems little reason to doubt that, in the course of a few years, the journey from Melbourne to Carpentaria will be performed with comparative facility by passing from station to station. To show the rapidity with which this sort of settlement proceeds in Australia, I may mention that much of the country between the Darling and Cooper's Creek, which are several parties from Victoria have traversed, is already taken up, so that not only sheep but cattle are now depastured within twenty-five miles of Mount Balu, not far from which Burke's expedition struck the creek in question, stretching thence-easterly along the Queensland boundary in an almost unbroken chain. To the westward also, the country towards the South Australian settlements is likely to be occupied ere long. I hope to be able to enclose the tracing of the entire route of the Burke and Wills expedition, but the Surveyor General has, of course, experienced some difficulty in connecting the various rough charts and checking the calculations as to longitude, etc. A fuller description of some parts of the country may also be obtainable when King can be further examined, and there can be little doubt that our knowledge of the portion bordering on the Gulf of Carpentaria will be much extended by the labours of the Surveyers on board Her Majesty's colonial steamer, Victoria, as well as by the party likewise dispatched for the relief of Burke overland from Queensland. It seems, indeed, not improbable that one or other of these parties on discovering the record left by their explorers at the mouth of the Flinders River, not the Albert as they conjectured, and supposing them never to have got back to their depot on Cooper's Creek, may pursue their tracks to the southward until themselves are in danger, and it has been deemed advisable in order to guard against any casualty of this sort, as well as for the purpose of connecting Burke's tropical discoveries with the depot by the best practicable route to instruct Mr. Howard to establish his headquarters for the summer there, making short excursions in every direction around, which, without exposing his men to serious risk, will be better for them than idleness or inactivity. Some time may thus elapse before the full value and extent of these discoveries can be ascertained, but, meanwhile, it may be asserted, without fear of contradiction, that to the liberality and enterprise of one of her youngest colonial offshoots, backed by the heroic self-devotion of Burke and Wills, Great Britain owes the acquisition of millions of available acres destined at no distant date to swell her imports and afford fresh markets for her manufacturers. I have, etc., signed Henry Barkley. Copy off a dispatch from Miss Grace, the Duke of Newcastle, KG, to Governor Sir H. Barkley, KCB. Downing Street, January 27, 1862. Sir, I have read with the greatest interest the intelligence conveyed in your dispatch of the 20th of November, respecting the fate of Mr. Burke and the adventurous persons who accompanied him on his recent disastrous expedition. I am fully sensible of the advantages which their dearly bought success will confer on geographical science and on their Australian fellow colonists, and I gladly embrace this opportunity of expressing the admiration which I feel of the spirit of enterprise in which their task was undertaken. The perseverance with which it was pursued, and the patience and mutual fidelity which, even to the unhappy termination of their labours, appear never to have forsaken them. I have, etc., signed Newcastle. End of Chapter 16. End of Robert Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson.