 so thermostats blinking he hit the fan in up button at the same time and it didn't didn't make it go into a immediate so usually fan running limit switch so we can get in there and check that limit switch see what we got we could be a little generic here just yank it off the changes state it's obviously not the limit okay yanked it off and the LED light changed fan just kicked down and back up again almost like the fan is calling because it changed speeds so we're gonna go ahead and kill this look at that it comes on immediately so that tells me we've probably got a thermostat acting up we'll go ahead and make sure this thing cycles on and runs now this one here is also LP gas as you tell me at least it's got that this is a 2010 unit newer hot source ignitors one of the silicon nitride so generally we don't have to make issues of that single-stage unit one of the first things I checked since that damage runs I checked my roll out what happened there out pressure switch thought guarantee it which makes me think it's bad boys plug here pressure switch did not close or reopen and it's clear but this one here is probably going to one plugged up so my new cool client combo strippers I like these a lot better than the Milwaukee's because they got a real freaking gripper on the front of that bad boy so you're right on there and I'm just about guarantee you look at that off it comes and no so let's go to the next one no water so we're good there so the pressure switch shut down but something keep in mind when you go on these LP furnaces that bad boys wired in series with the pressure switch so you could think it's pressure switch that's on the draft motor it could be the LP one let's go take a look at the pressure on the tank it's like I got 80% that's all the way open one of the next things I'll look at to see what kind of inning they got it's got a concentric generally we don't have too many problems with that then to speed check up I have a leftover hose from one of the kits I'll literally unhook those hoses look that on there blow through that thing and see what kind of restrictions I got I'll blow through both of them and if it's plugged up I yank the whole thing out if it blows through really easy I'll just go ahead and blow it out and move on the LP pressure was fine and so we'll get this hook back up we're going to check our gas pressure coming in here and then we'll check our pressure here on our pressure switch remember you're going to take that cover off when you check your gas pressure on the manifold I want to check it also because of that cap being removed we've got flame sensor accessible here so we're gonna clean that our gas pressure tap is here on the side that's where that comes in handy all right pretty well got everything zeroed out here give it a call for heating we're doing here checking our incoming pressure and our going we can bounce back and forth between the two okay so our manifold is six inches and a half and our incoming is 12.64 I think this cuts out at seven but definitely isn't nowhere near where it should be cutting out at so it should be good there also notice it's running to not stopping so for some reason our manifold pressure is low which makes me wonder why especially since it was open did somebody dope deliberately open it or lower it what's what's the story here 10 for now just in case there's something weird going on make sure that cap sometimes in there that'll change it too like I said make sure that covers off when you're doing this it's running non-stop which tells me there might be something going on with that intake so let's close this part back up and put this cover on we'll see if this cover sucks in real hard or not first changed a little bit I'll do you notice it's sucking it in really and I'm not even having to try so we might have a restriction on our hair intake okay what I use is a tee I put it in between all we need technically this piece and that piece right now made a temporary bypass of the pressure switch so I put this in there so put that back on there we'll do the same thing this other one good shut that down we know our manifold stuff's fine we're gonna zero out our meter again while it's disconnected for everything I'm gonna head and hook on to these teas which like I said I like doing it this way because it assures us that we're actually checking what the pressure switch is seeing and not just what the hose is seeing so we're gonna go ahead and run this with the door off of the burner box and see what we have beforehand and then we'll put the cover on and see what happens this pressure switch is rated for 1.58 and we have 2.74 but I've noticed just as my own observance is usually almost double what it's rated for almost let's go ahead and put this cover on and see how that changes so we're gonna go ahead and let this thing kick on see if it runs tell you about we'll go shut her back down we're gonna do with the door on starting from the door on good enough to make it run so let's see what happens here so we're well high enough just give it a call for gas to kick on and it didn't happen no click from the gas valve that was interesting I have had with these little connectors in the gas valve don't make good connection generally what it is just two little prongs to a solenoid and it's got little scratchy connections that scratch on to it sometimes they won't make good connection the gas pressure switch we're gonna remove just for testing purposes only okay let's watch it now I'm pretty sure these aren't supposed to mount it upside down can't remember I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not but she's starting over again kicks on runs it never acts up again then it was probably this doodad here yes I called it a doodad it's a thing of a jig down by the monostat next to the witch will call it you know what I mean all right so we're running cut our graph it looks pretty good we're going at 2.9 actually getting better as it gets the air warmer in there it's drafting better thinner no dropout that's always a good thing yes so I know our draft is not an issue that was something people asked about before about how to properly check pressure switch I like to do it like this this way I was taught from Linux and a few others I mean which I've seen their training videos and some of those aren't the greatest in the world but yeah I had that this charge of us is pretty good so nothing's dropping out give her an old taparoo little shake of the goose juice wires kind of just tap my switch a little bit because these are little dumb things that sometimes if they're just barely making contact that they'll act stupid and tap my switch that way it's like say just barely tap you know barely making internally that drops out that it would drop out we're not having any of those issues kind of come up here wiggle our wires wire harness limit switch tap down in there wiggle all this stuff basically it appears to me what we have going on and this is all high voltage in here as before this is not for my homeowners don't do anything you see here I don't want to be held responsible for your mistakes and you hurt yourself so not acting up but her to click mount diaphragm membrane vertical or horizontal natural world he gets so that's horizontal giggles not granted this thing's been installed since oh nine or ten why is it just now acting up and might be the river diaphragm it's a little cooler out here right now you know why did you get away with not wearing your seatbelt for how long so we're gonna do but shut her down and what I usually do is I'll put these back together another reason to have this extra piece here some some hoses are really big some are small I see this so that's really bad is when you have multiple issues multiple offenders as old mr. Dave would say that you know yeah like the first thing I said that thermostat was blinking funny like it had some issues okay common to W nothing common to G I've got a call for G but no heat so we need to go back and double check that thermostat again it sounds like we've got a bad thermostat and a pressure switch is bad all right surprise surprise surprise they've got themselves a heat pump I did not notice that that little control module was mounted back here only at two wires inside so it's trying to run fan which is fine question is what else was going on so basically what I assume probably happened is it got colder the heat pump shut down because we're right in that 20 to 30 degree range it didn't switch over to the gas furnace like it should the gas furnace failed out then it got cold they said it came on one time which was when it probably got a little bit warmer got into the mid 40s and then the heat pump must ran and worked so unless the heat pump is locking out too so let's go ahead and get the flame sensor clean and then go ahead and see what our settings are for our heat pump like I said this has worked for me forever and ever and ever and ever I mean if it was it was hurting that it hurt my hand more it don't so I think what we got going on like I said is this pressure switch is acting up it's probably our biggest issue right now so as you notice what we did over at is we went ahead and clean the flame sensor clean the condensate trap check the heat exchanger check the gas pressure basically did everything you normally do on a maintenance that you find to be boring because these are the things that need to be done so we got those things all cleaned up I'm not sure what we're gonna do is we're gonna put this thing in auxiliary heat and we're gonna test this thing out see if it drops out all right went back through there and check some of my settings and basically they had the gas furnace locking out at 35 degrees till so anytime the uh it was above 35 the gas furnace could not run the heat pump's locking out at 30 I find this to be a bad idea because if the heat pump fails and you're in that borderline area there's a chance of you know possibly freezing pipes stuff like that so I set that a little higher maybe 45 50 degrees if the gas furnace needs to run it needs to run it only has 15 minutes to satisfy which is adjustable on this thermostat that they've got so and the heat pump like I said shuts off at 30 so what I think was happening is we were colder and they said see it just dropped out so this switch here I think is bad so I think what we had here was basically it was definitely below 30 degrees these last few weeks and this has been going on for a while and they just now had the opportunity to call us so in previously back a few weeks it was definitely below 30 degrees so the gas furnace would have had to run well the gas furnace couldn't run because this pressure switch here's malfunctioning right now like I said we're just basically going to remove this thing out of the circuit I just seen it drop out again so we'll go ahead and put this back to factory default pressure switch bypassed gas furnace is running we'll see whether or not this thing shuts off it doesn't shut off and I am pretty positive that this was our failure point still running so it appears to me we had a bad pressure switch you know like I said far as checking our temps and stuff so we got 68 it looks like coming back it's 72 3 in the house so we know that we're not sucking a lot of cold air from the attic all right even with it being radiant heat where it sat 124 we said we had 68 over here do the math on it we got furniture rise so far as making our adjustments on our gas we're fine on that so basically got our outdoor sensor here let's double check my wires this must be an older version of the stat that I have because it doesn't show the outdoor temperature where you look at it from the main screen I didn't think it was working they had it for 60 minutes of continuous runtime I switched it to 90 all right it showed to be a little bit low you can tell how fast it was starting to freeze up and should be somewhere around 318 and 80 something on our suction chances are if this cap being defective like it is it's probably leaking there but also with the age of it wouldn't surprise me the coil probably has some issues also can't rush this stuff too much fortune a seems to always want to expand at the last minute and go berserk and actually check sub cooling they don't give you a rating for it but it's coming back sub cooled from the coil we are right around 40 degrees 42 degrees slowly getting her up there in that ballpark about two pounds low I don't know how long it's been since this has been checked so it may have been a while not that makes a difference but yeah 318 and 83 we're about 300 almost stopped right there that's close enough I'll let them know I've been keeping a constant contact with the homeowner and letting them know what I've been finding and stuff like that that way they understand you know why it's taking so long because just there's so many different things that you're running into that you know you want to do them a good job so you don't come back got that in there sub cooling was 11 if you notice that also like I said they don't give you those ratings but generally you start doing with many geothermals and stuff so what we do you start checking those sort of things I was able to get the cap outside tightened down otherwise I got nothing in here in the evaporator I scanned it with the d-tech then I went ahead and hit it with the back rack nothing in here at all so at this point if it is a leak which obviously it must be because it was two pounds low maybe we can catch it this summer for right now everything's up and running we just need to order that pressure switch and everything should be working fine for them it's going to be a lot more efficient than what it was if you guys like the video please like share and subscribe and until next time guys we'll catch you on the next one