 Hi you guys! Lindsay here. Welcome back to my channel Inside the Hymn. All right so one of the most common pattern adjustments that I'm sure a lot of us have had to tackle from time to time is grading between sizes. Now that can happen whether you're making a top, a dress, skirt, pants, really any garment. If you are falling in different size categories in your bust or your waist or your hip then you're going to want to grade out your side seams and it is super super simple to do. All you need to do I'm going to use this purple pen to help us see what's going on here but all you need to do is say for example okay so I am going to be a size 20 in the waist which is this line here and I'm going to be a 22 in the hip. Now the hip is indicated by where this little bullseye is so if you want to take your big clear ruler like this and you would line it up with the center front because that's on the fold that's your grain line you know that that is perpendicular to your body and you move it on up to where that little bullseye is keeping this lined up and then this lined up and then now you know that this is your hip line this is where the widest part of your body will be and you can kind of see that because that's where it grades out a little bit but anyway so now you know that at this point I need to be at a 22 so you can take a curvy ruler like the one from Stitch Buzz and easily grade between those two sizes you simply take the ruler and follow it around its curve let's move you guys to the middle a little bit more move it around its curve however much or little you see how the curve is getting more and more deep the more around you go so you kind of follow it around until magically those two points line up and you can tell that this one's going to kind of follow the curve of the original pattern pretty well it's just going to dip in ever so slightly along the line perfect and so now whenever you cut out your pattern piece you'll cut out this line and you will have a size 20 at your waist and a size 22 at your hip another common pattern adjustment is something called a full seat adjustment you were only going to do a full seat adjustment on bottom pattern so pants skirts cool lots things like that and I almost universally always do a full seat adjustment just because I know for my body the circumference of my hip a lot of that sits in the back so I tend to not grade the front pattern piece too too much I'll do like maybe one size and then in the back I'll grade between the sizes and do a full seat adjustment to allow for that extra volume in the bum so it's super super simple to do you will need to take your long ruler again and you can see we've got our bullseye to mark our hip line so you're gonna line up the grain line with one of the marks and then line up the center of the bullseye with another one of the marks and this time you are going to draw the line all the way across like so that is your hip line you also need to mark the two seam lines so along your waist or I'm sorry along your side and this is the super cool seam allowance ruler from stitch buzz it is exactly five eighths of an inch wide so I love it because you can just throw it down and mark that little mark same thing on this side throw it down and mark that little mark and then you're going to draw in a little circle here and that's to ensure that you don't cut through your stitching line and all you're going to do is take some scissors and you are going to cut all the way through this line up until the edge of that circle perfect so I haven't gone to the stitching line just to the edge of the circle I'm going to rotate this around and I'm going to cut from the other side the other raw edge to the other edge of the circle very careful not to cut through that circle and this allows us to have a better pivot so because you can see the paper is separating right here as well so what we are going to do now is we are going to create a little bit of a wedge where this is going to rotate up and down and the more the deeper the wedge the bigger the full seat adjustment so if you've got like a cardi B situation going on down there you're going to need a larger wedge I tend to never go more than I mean certainly never more than an inch somewhere between half an inch to uh three quarters of an inch would probably be plenty for most people all right and then you're going to slide this little guy under here like so just till it gets past the other edge like this okay so you've got your green line on I love using gridded cutting mats because then you can make sure everything's lined up so you've got your green line lined up that's perfectly straight to put a little tape on your hem line so that that doesn't move around okay because we don't want this bottom piece to move we only want to move the top piece so now we are going to take this is the six inch ruler from stitch buzz you can also use this one again if you would like but we are going to do a half inch uh full seat adjustment let's tape down our adjustment paper strip thing so it doesn't move around okay so now we've got everything that we don't want to move not moving all right so you need to measure up uh what did we say half an inch from your um the line that you cut and you don't need to do it all the way across you just need to do it along the stitching line so I'll go past the raw edge and a little bit past the stitching line just to make sure I've got it nice and covered there why does it look a quarter of an inch it is this is half an inch this is half an inch okay here we go here we go if I make a mistake like that I just put little x's through it that reminds me that's not the one you wanted okay so now this little sliver of paper is going to line up at the stitching line so it's like a millimeter away from the raw edge but the stitching line here is what is touching that new measurement that half inch line that we made all right now don't cut all of this away just yet we need to true up these seams you can see here that there's a nice big gap along the cutting line so again you're gonna take your curvy ruler and you are going to line that up with your original cutting line and you're gonna draw that in so this overlaps you can barely barely tell because we've only done an itty bitty one but if you look really closely those are not creating a nice smooth edge so again take your curvy ruler place it over and draw in that new cutting line like so take down the raw edges of the paper and can you I don't know if you guys can even tell it's like of the littlest bit but the littlest bit matters in sewing as we all know okay cool so this is a full seat adjustment you have created some extra room for your little bum and another good way to know if you need a full seat adjustment is if when you make a skirt or a dress or pants and you notice that the hem in the back is shorter than the hem in the front more than likely you need a full seat adjustment and now we've got our beautiful new skirt with a half inch full seat adjustment another really fun adjustment to do is to add width to the hem of a skirt top pants if you have like stove pipe legs and you want flare legs or you have a slim skirt and you want a full skirt same thing get a slim fitting top and you want it to be a little bit more boxy you can add some width at the hem super simple you just need to take your long clear ruler like this one and you were going to line it up with the grain line and then you're going to put the edge of the ruler right smack dab in the middle of your patterns dart assuming there is a dart if you're doing like a top or something that doesn't have a dart you're just gonna be eyeing a uh a third or a half however many of these you're going to be adding you can add a whole bunch of them like if you were taking a sleeve that was like a regular fitted sleeve and you wanted it to be a flutter sleeve you would add a whole bunch of these wedges like three or five of them if because you don't want to spread this like ten inches you only want to spread it a little bit at a time so if you have a pattern piece like a sleeve or like a top that doesn't have a dart as a reference point you're going to be doing right down the middle you're going to be doing each of the third sectors so one and so forth okay so once you do that then you draw a line all the way down like so then you want to measure your hem this one takes a quarter of an inch hem which is one and a quarter which is right there so this is where your hem will be and you want to slice all the way up through this dart until you get to the seam line which is right around there and you're going to take it right to the edge of that circle again flip it around and cut from the other edge to the other edge of the circle so this is looking very similar to what we might have already done here at this point now you're going to line up that line that you just cut with uh one of the grid lines on your cutting mat now if you want to do if you want to make your skirt more a line and you want to make it one inch wider you're going to pull these apart by one a half an inch on each side so you scoot this one out to half an inch you scoot this one out to half an inch like so then take down your corners so they don't move like so and you can see it's created this little wedge all the way through the pattern okay now you need to take your curvy ruler and you need to true up your hemline like so now we've cleared that area you need to true up your dart and with that we have basically split open our little dart legs so we need to put in our little dot for the end of the dart and redraw the dart legs like so and now we have brand new dart legs that we will trace off onto our pattern piece we also can hold this stuff in place a little bit better now that we've got our hem done and we can true up our the tip of our dart and trueing up the dart really just means that that little teeny tiny point that that is at the top of your dart is going to lay like when you cut out this little shape from your fabric that it is going to lay flat when you press it to the side so you go along the middle of your dart a little hard to do with all the paper and tape but it can be done and then get your dart legs and then fold it over as if the dart were sewn into place all right perfect when you cut through all of that and then open this back out you have a true dart at that point okay now we can cut our hem is a back skirt with a half inch full seat adjustment and a one inch width added to your hem for a more a line skirt every once in a while you'll come across a pattern that was drafted with a very large arm side and when you put it on your bra strap shows when you raise your arm up i know we've all been there there also have been times where there's been an itsy bitsy teeny weeny arm side and like you can barely move your arm because the fabric is so up in your armpit so this is going to be the adjustment that you're going to use to raise or lower your arm side so first things first and i'm sure you're putting together a little lovely little theme that we've got here but we start with our big ruler and we are going to line it up with our fold line or our center back whichever or if there's a grain line you're going to do that as well and we are going to draw a line halfway along your arm side the line goes across like so cut through this entire line all the way one edge to the other okay perfect now we have two parts and this is how we're going to make it smaller or larger depending on what you need okay so we are going to make ours shorter we can take our back pattern piece like so and tape it down on one side just to make sure it's nice and smooth and i've got it lined up with one of our grid lines on our cutting mat and then take another piece and we are going to overlap these like so by half an inch you can tell that there's like a little bit of a bump and we want to remove that so we are going to take our trusty curvy roller again kind of a theme and we are going to try and rotate this around here we go so that we can trim off that little itty bitty piece of paper so hold this down and true up this seam line and you can see we're trimming off this little sliver of paper beautiful little arm side that you got there so that's how you shorten it if you needed to lengthen it you would do the opposite adjustment okay another common adjustment for bodices is to adjust the neckline either raising it or lowering it or even changing the shape of it completely from a rounded neckline to a butto neckline to a v neckline whatever you wanted to do this is a bodice back that has a scoopier neckline that I want to be more smoothed out less scoopy and higher up obviously if this were the bodice front pattern piece the same adjustments could be made you just want to think about how you want your front neckline to look versus how you want your back neckline to look so we are going to take some of our paper here and we are going to line up our center back with one of the grid lines on our cutting mat put down a little piece of paper or tape and then you're going to tape down the shoulder seam as well so I would like to raise my neckline by two inches again that's completely subjective you can do whatever you want I have already drawn in the stitching line ignore this um for the shoulder and the neckline itself and I'm going to measure from that stitching line to our new stitching line which is two inches higher and then I'm going to measure five eighths of an inch above that for our new cutting line along the back now you also need to note the intersection of the shoulder seam and the neckline this is called the high point shoulder and the high point shoulder shouldn't it's its own adjustment if you want to widen the shoulders or narrow the shoulders that's up to you that's a different adjustment we're going to assume that we still want the high point shoulder to be a little bit wider you can tell it's a little bit further away from the center back than say a closer one would be so we are going to maintain that because we still want this beautiful side of our neck to be part of our design and how we want our garment to look in the end so we are going to maintain that and we are going to measure using our curvy ruler we are going to rotate her around from the high point shoulder until we get to that line that we made and again we're doing a stitching line to stitching line all right and because ours it's a little bit wider we're rotating around a lot if we had a deeper set high point shoulder like let's say it was I don't know here then you can tell we'd have like a scoopier back neckline so it just depends on that and again I'm assuming you've muscled in this so you would know what how much wiggle room you had with your high point shoulder but again we're keeping ours the exact same place because we like that all right and then you were going to draw in your new stitching line for your neckline and she looks like that now we need to draw in our new cutting line and this is also by stitch buzz their seam allow its curve ruler so this is five eighths of an inch wide it just makes it super simple to kind of come in here line up your curve that you made something like that and draw in your new cutting line like so and there is our brand new neckline hopefully you have enjoyed this master tutorial covering a wide variety of common pattern adjustments if you guys have any questions please check the description box first I will have information in there like where you can get all of these amazing tools including the curvy ruler um from stitch buzz I also have a coupon code for stitch buzz so that will be in the description box as well and if your question was not answered there check um please feel free to leave a comment and I think that's it for today's Tuesday too thank you so much for watching and I will see you all very soon bye