 Welcome to the show. It's me, John Park. And it is time. It's actually a few minutes past time. So sorry about that for John Park's workshop. So I was finishing up a 3D print and installing a tool I want to show you in a bit. So I had a couple of things go a little longer than expected. So thank you so much for your patience. I appreciate that very much. And I'm going to check real quick before I get going if this tool I was installing actually properly installed. So give me one second to test something in the background. Let's see. Might not have worked. All right, we may have to improvise. Or we will troubleshoot it in real time. Let's see. What did it yell at me? It's a PIP problem. I'm going to update PIP, upgrade PIP. Fun when your tools require other tools that you forgot to update. And is it working? Excuse me. No. All right, we'll work on this together in a little bit then. And then if it works, we'll do the Circuit Python Parsec. And if it doesn't, we won't. But get ready, especially you Python people and you PIP people. So first of all, thanks everyone for stopping by in the chat. I see over in our YouTube chat Clipper Silvio, welcome from Brazil. Nice to see you here today. And if you're wondering where the rest of the chat is, head over to Discord. The Adafruit Discord server is available by going to adafruit.it-slash-discord. And then you can check out the live broadcast chat channel, which is where we see such gems as this, Caddyshack GIF. Well, people are patiently waiting. Thank you, Andy Callaway. DJ Devin3 says, have you tried turning it off and on again? I'm going to turn the whole thing off and on again. That could be exciting. Let's see. In fact, let's do a couple of our normal things first. And then we'll see if we can troubleshoot this thing on the way to doing a circuit Python parsec. How about that? So first of all, I want to mention we've got a jobs board up over at jobs.adafruit.com. You can head there if you are looking to get some work or if you're looking to hire someone. That's what the board looks like right there. Grab my window. That shows some positions that have been posted. And this is anything from full-time work, part-time work, remote work, contract work, on-site, and so on. And if you take a look at some of these, you'll see they've got little descriptions there, qualifications, some links. These are all vetted. So this is not a cesspool of scams, ideally. Adafruit jobs, not a cesspool of scams. That is our official title. So go check that out if you're looking to hire someone if you're looking to get some work for yourself. That's at jobs.adafruit.com. If you didn't know, I've got a show that looks like that. JP's product pick of the week I do on Tuesdays. On that show, I grab a product of ours, sometimes a new one, sometimes a classic, and put it through its paces, show you how it works, do a little bit of a demo, hardware, software, and so on. There is a discount during the show that you don't need a coupon code for. You just put it in your cart, buy it during the show, and there you go, often 50% off. That was the case this week on this one. And this show is usually 15 minutes long, but I'd like to do a little one-minute recap so you can check that out right now. NAU7802, 24-bit ADC. I'm gonna take a clue and plug that in. I'm using some crimp connectors connected up to a load cell. Looks a lot like this one, except this one I have mounted to a little metal plate and I've added a little place to set something that you're weighing. I will take a container, and now I'm going to tear this scale. I'm gonna hold the button there. It's gonna remove the weight that it sees on there from the starting point, so now we're at zero. I'll start pouring these in and you'll see that the weight is going up and up. 18, oh, I went a little over, I'll pull some out of there. Okay, watch this, I'm gonna put one bean in and you can see it's really precise measurement that went up to 18.1 from 18. It is the NAU7802, 24-bit ADC for measuring strain gauges and load cells. There goes my mic. So if you are willing to help me figure this out, it could be an artifact of my Python installations being a giant mess on this particular machine. Totally forgot to check that out before the show. I'm so sorry, I had it running on another machine inside. I am trying to install DiscoTool, which is what I wanted to show you on the CircuitPython Parsec. So let's see if I can share... I guess I can do this from inside of Adam since I can show a shell inside of there. So here's what we're running into. If this works, I'll explain what it is. Even if it doesn't work, I'll explain what it is. So I was trying to install this with... Let's see, Python 3-M, PIP install DiscoTool. And this is what it's not loving. Python setup.py.eggInfo did not run successfully. It can't execute setup.py cause setupTools is not available. SetupTool is the Xcode thing, is that what I'm running into? I'm gonna bring my Discord chat over into view here so I can see if anyone has ideas on that. I am open. I don't know if there's an obvious way to correct that. Or if someone knows of another way to install DiscoTool. Because DiscoTool is fantastic and it kind of builds on what we did last week with TO. So let me know in the chat. I'm gonna keep an eye on the YouTube chat and on our Discord. And see if anyone has ideas on that. It must be setupTools. How do I install setupTools? I feel like that's part of Xcode. What version of Python am I using? All right. Can I do which Python? I'm installing it with Python 3. Which Python... Nope. Okay. So Python 3, is that the actual answer? I feel like this machine had like Anaconda and all sorts of other terrifying abstractions of Python. All right. So let's try Todd's suggestion here. I think it didn't like that. Python-m-pip install DiscoTool. User. Let me do that again with Python 3. Hmm. Same error. Let's see. We'll do it with pip3. Good suggestion, Liz. No module named pip3. All right. I think we're gonna have to skip this. What I'll do, I will go back and record this once I get it working and I'll be able to post a circuit Python parsec to watch on Ask an Engineer next week and I'll also post that to the socials. But what I will tell you is DiscoTool is useful. I think the name probably comes from Discovery. It's useful because what it allows you to do is often from a shell I use Screen or now Tio to connect to a microcontroller and let's say in this case, the thing I did prepare was I got my camera switcher over there and these two gizmos all connected over USB, all circuit Python drives and I'm forever being confused by which one to connect to because they show up with names like c-u-dot-us-b and then a number, 14-4-8-0-2 or whatever. DiscoTool, among other things, gives them a name. It tells you the sort of short nice name. So it'll say circuit playground blue fruit. It'll say probably Feather RP2040. It'll say trinket M0. So let's even know which one has which name and then you can connect to it along with a whole bunch of other cool stuff. So I'm excited to show it. I can't show it right now because I forgot how calacious the Python is on this particular machine. All right, so we'll move past that. Sorry about that. Let's see. So let me close that window out of there. That means we can get onto my project that I started working on. So I've got a couple things in the works right now, by the way. So you saw the coffee scale that I showed during that one-minute recap there of the NAU-7802. So the code there, Cgrover, Cedar Grove in our chat created, he's actually writing up a guide for us, which I hope you already agreed to that and I didn't just force your hand. I think you agreed to that. We're going to collaborate on it. I'm going to build the physical coffee scale with two load sensors, I think, for one application, maybe just one for another. Measure grounds or measure the shots pulled, and that's going to be a really cool guide that'll show you how to use that load cell and that 24-bit ADC to get really precise measurements. As you saw there, it'll measure down to 0.1 gram, which is fantastic. What else is up? Collaboration is going strong with Noe on the Walkman person that I'm working on, the MP3 Walkman. He's working on some designs and three models for the case, which is excellent. Oh good, Cgrover says in our chat he agreed to write it, so he's working on it now. Thank you, Cgrover. The other projects that I've got going Plant Synth that I showed last week, I'm going to write up a quick guide on that probably next week. I have some nice sort of almost a PWM of the signal, of the waveform happening based on capacitance as you touch the plant leaf, depending on how close you are to the alligator clip. So that should be a fun guide and it's doing onboard synthesis. You could also use it for MIDI, but it's fun to do onboard synthesis. And now, I know I've got a whole bunch of things in the works now, I'm going to be showing you something about flying faders. So if you allow me, I'll bring up my Chrome browser again and let's see, can I open from within here? This is one of my funny Chrome app ones. Yeah, we can just click around and get there. So motorized fader is this motorized slide potentiometer. So the cool thing about this, this is really three things in one. So it is your run of the mill slide potentiometer, which has three pins on it for a wiper and ground and positive voltage. So we can use an analog read to tell where this is, how much resistance we're getting, usually 0 to 10,000, 10K. Usually it's a 10K pot, pretty typical. That is sort of the big part one of what that product right there is. Oh wait, did that not update? Oh, that's strange. Sorry, I was showing the wrong window. I am, sorry about that. Where'd you go? How about that one? All right, hold on. That thing. Okay. So top part of that is the 10K slide pot. It's a nice big one. It's I think 100 millimeter throw on it, or roughly that. I think maybe that's the size of the case, 100 millimeter, something like that. And then you can see underneath it, it has this little DC motor. There is also, and I'll show you some up close of the real one in a second, there's also a little belt and pulley, sort of tooth belt, I think it's tooth belt and pulley, that is used to move that little fader handle for you, just like a linear actuator. So there's a little gearing in there that converts the rotary motion of the motor, gears it down so it doesn't move super fast, gives it much better torque, and it can push that fader back and forth up and down. So it's just like a linear actuator. That's two pins on the motor. And then there's a fourth pin on the pot. So normally these slide pots have three pins. This one has a fourth pin, which is a capacitive touch pin for the handle. So this one I'm holding right here, this has a plastic handle. What do you call these? I can't remember what you call them. It's not the cap, because this one's missing a cap, but the fader knob we'll call it. That's plastic on this one, it's pretty typical. On the motorized slide pod it's metal and it is connected through to a capacitive touch pin that you can then read. So when you touch that cap or knob and you would need a metal cap if you're going to put a fader cap on top of it, you can do things based on touch. So that could be something simple, like when I touch it, I'm turning off the motor so that I can move it freely so it doesn't strip the gears or jam the thing up to who knows what. Anything that you can use cap touch for. So those are the features of this and the way these are often used, the reason I call them flying faders, even though it says motorized slide potentiometer, is really these came out of huge mixing boards. So audio mixing boards for recording booths and live performance, particularly in recording, let's say you've got 48 faders for 48 different tracks of stuff that you're listening to and recording on to multi-tracks. If you want to nudge those levels around for a mix, once you move one, who knows where it used to be, you can't get back to a previous position. If you have a bunch of songs that you're working with and they all have different settings in the old days, you would put a little piece of tape and write color tape per song or more likely white tape and write on it which song, which setting and then you go in and manually move them around. So the innovation of flying faders is you could store presets and have with this kind of motorized slide pot, have the fader move to the position you need, just maybe for a setup for a song, or you can get more elaborate and have real-time changes going in sync with the music while you're mastering, let's say, but still have the ability to go in and reach out and grab and change a fader. Also gives you visual, a great visual feedback of where a level is. If it's high up, you know it's high, if it's low down, it's low. So that's the sort of history behind or the reason these things exist, but you can... Oh, yeah, let me go to Discord. You can see an example here that Yanisku showed us. Is this a flying one? Let's see if it is. Oh, no, that's just a cat movie fader. How about that? Yeah, there's one. DJ Devon, thank you. So here's a whole big group of faders with different positions back and forth between them. So the next thing I like to do is show you this one in action, show you how it's set up, what I'm doing to do a little build for it, and I think I'll also mount it in my little 3D print that I had going before. So let's go jump over to our Downshooter over here. Benchcam. There you go. There's the Benchcam. And let me see how that focus looks. That looks pretty sharp. Okay, so let's take a look. So what you're seeing right now actually is the dimension drawing I did so that I can model or laser cut that. By the way, I'm noticing this one light is super bright. Let me see if I can lower that. There we go. So this is some cutouts I made and some screw holes and then some extra mounting there. The 3D print that I just pulled off of the printer I had to actually grab my glass printing bed so that it would cool enough to pop off of there. Let's see if we can get that off nicely. If you try to get these off too soon, you will add a bend to your print. I like these little artist's palette brushes. So when I didn't at first grab that, I tried to peel this off right before the show and I mangled it up with my little spatula there. So I had to stop the print so it's short. I wanted to make this tall enough to clear all the base of the thing. But we'll see if it'll still be helpful to have that. So here is the view there. Here's our fader and I just have it on a little vice clamp there right now. Let's get in closer. There you go. So you can see here a nice long throw pot. And typical for pots, there are a couple screws in the top for mounting so this is usually you'll just have a cutout for the track and then a couple of screw holes to mount into a top plate. You can see we've just got, I think it's four millimeters of clearance there for material. So I tried to add a little cutout for that right there so that won't get stuck. We'll see when we try to put that in if that works, that was first iteration. And then here you can see, I've got it on the bottom. Here's our, let me flip this around. Match the diagrams. So here's our motor and what I've done is I've gone ahead and just soldered on a couple of socket connections. I've cut up some of our jumper, our nice premium silicon jumper wire. So those are my two motor pins. And what is required to drive the motor is an H bridge motor driver so that we can reverse polarity in the chip. So that's this little chip I have here. What's this guy called? The L991, something like that. Like a dollar or two for the little motor driver there. And so that can turn this forward and backward and when that turns forward and backward it will slide that fader. If you look carefully here, you might be able to see this little pulley turning. This little pulley gear actually that the belt, little tracked belt is on. It's moving as I slide that. And that's what the motor is turning back here. Same sort of little arrangement and you'll see this little belt. See those little wheels there? It's a really neat little system with a tracked belt. The other connections on here we have, so just ground down at one end and this is pretty typical for faders. You'll have the ground pin down on one end by itself and then usually the wiper and the voltage pin, positive voltage pin will be at the other end which are what this yellow for wiper and red for voltage. And again, these are just some wires I soldered on there. I also need to put a little heat shrink so I don't get any whiskers of wire touching each other. And then this last one, this third connection here, that's the touch, capacitive touch. So what I'll do actually is, I'll explain how this is all connected up. Then we'll take a look at it kind of in pieces of what's going on. So on the breadboard here I've got Feather M4 and I am, first of all you'll see I'm running a capacitor across power and ground just to help with any, make sure we don't have any little voltage spikes and brownouts and things of the logic on the board. So that is the USB power, so I'm taking 5 volts. This is meant to be plugged into USB. So I'm taking 5 volts and that is going to the motor driver chip and only there. Everything else is using 3 volts. So the little motor driver chip there, the H-bridge, then has a couple of connections for PWM on the microcontroller so we can send it in one direction or the other using PWM. And then the rest of the connections up here are ground. We have two pins that get the USB 5 volts and then the output to the motor. That one is right there. The power and ground for the slide pot I'm using 3 volts and ground here. 3 volt rail coming off of the 3V pin. And then I'm reading on A0 here, any analog pin will work, but I'm reading on A0 here the position of that, essentially as a voltage divider. And then the last thing is the blue wire you see here coming off of the touch pin I have going on to the breadboard and then I'm running it to a touch pin. A4 is what I'm using. I'm also running a one mega ohm resistor to ground and that is necessary in most cases for the capacitive touch to work. So then the last thing I've got is some buttons here that I'm using just to play back some presets of position on here. So actually this camera is nice and we're set up. Why don't I re-clamp this in here and we can take a look at this in action. I'm going to flip it around actually because I can get a little bit of there's a little bit of mounting plastic here we can grab onto without disrupting things if we're careful that makes it a little more stable. Let's see, I'll move this down here and let's find 5 volt USB for you. My kingdom for a USB micro cable. Where are you? That used to be all I had. Now I have USB C everywhere. Alright, I'm going to... Can I use that? No, that's a bad idea. Sorry, one second. I'm going to grab one from over here. Oh by the way, DJ Devin said don't stop your 3D print on our account we don't mind the noise. Unfortunately the issue is that my 3D printer is inside my studio space and not out here in the workshop. Alright, so let me feed you a nice... I'm assuming this will work on here I haven't tried it plugged just into power and I do have a demo going that's doing some MIDI stuff so it may be that we have to plug it in over the computer, let's see. Did you all see it move? Oh there it is, ok, so it looks like it's working. So you can see I've got some presets saved there that are just preset positions that it will go to. When I touch it, it stops doing any motor stuff so the capacitive touch tells it that it's okay to move and then when I let go, it goes back to its position although it's fighting me right now so either something became disconnected or this is an issue with not being on the computer oh no no, there we go I could feel it letting go. Yeah, so that's giving me no resistance right now and then when I let go it's going to go back to whatever position I left it at. But you know what, this is acting a little funny and cooler is this with MIDI happening so I'm going to pull this out let's go over to the computer and we'll do it there so let's just want to make sure I'm not pinching anything with the clamp there. Oh you know what, before we do that let's actually, let's see how well this will connect to the 3D printed thingy. I just need a couple of M3 screws these might work also, zoom out a little bit the, we'll see if the 3D print really allows my screws in there because I printed without support some little upside down recessed holes just got to clear those I think I'm just going to pre sort of tap that plastic grab the other one yeah the print lied to me it said it was going to take 2 hours and I started at about 3 hours before the show but it was slower than expected oops, I'm going to turn one more light on over here too alright so let's see there was a nice data sheet by the way on the product page from the manufacturer that gave me the dimensions and I based my measurements on that it looks like they were good this is going in here pretty nicely there we go at least so you can see why I was trying to print long legs on this so I have to hold this or clamp this part now this is going to hit I think yeah because my screws didn't recess as much as I had hoped so we'll see if that's a problem if it is I can take that out or we can encode tell it not to go all the way because we can sort of set arbitrary limits on those and then remap the values we're using to what we want so let's see do I trust that cable? I think I trust this cable one second I'll do about that view there plug this in and take a look at the code that I'm using on there as well will this work? will that sit there? I think that might not we'll see there we go oh I got a camera view in my face there we go okay so I think I was not going all the way to the limits anyway yeah I'm stopping shy so that's great I'm not going to be in danger of hitting anything yeah this is working much nicer let me get a little closer to that too oh my focus was good let me bump the exposure there too okay so I will will that rest there nicely? yeah that might work sure that works okay so I'm really excited about this feature just of being able to have it sort of set a return position so this button is close to center let's say so if I have a value that I want to change freely but then just let go and know that it's going to go back to that position that's what we get peel that off of that saved position and know that it's going to get back there the code let me open up the code that's running on here take a look so this is running in circuit python and I think a make code example because I think what we want to have is just a fundamental guide on how you use this make sure that's the code yet how you use this thing how you use this motorized fader it's not too tricky but it's just a few it's sort of a collection of these three things you're really dealing with an analog read, a PWM motor output and a capacitive touch and let me see I can't remember from printing anything in here yeah I wish I had that disco tool working because I do have multiple things plugged in let's see which I'm just going to unplug my camera switcher see this is the pain I go through every time I was very excited this morning about let's see dev dty there we go okay yeah so here you can see I've got it's a set of 0 to 1 no 0 to 255 values I think I can send out or that I'm kind of converting this analog read to and so you can see when I let go it's going to head back up here to about 240 I think I have a slop of about 1 so that heads up there to about 240 when I press button 1 it moves to about 180 press button 0 back up to 240 so you can see it's pretty pretty accurate good enough for the type of feedback that it has and if you think about it in these cases when I'm telling it to just go to a position this is a servo motor in the sense that there is this feedback loop of I tell it to move and then I say check the analog read of the slide potentiometer because they're coupled to each other and I tell the motor to move then I say check move check move check and it just keeps making a direct journey to the desired position and then it stops when it gets there issues you can run into of course are overshoot it can go past if it's the timing isn't right and I've seen that happen sometimes it'll jiggle a little happens worse if you're traveling really fast if you go let's say all the way from one end to another also if you find that it's overshooting what you can do is have the speed with which it's then reduce as you get closer and closer to the target and that's why you'll see I have this nice ease to it so it doesn't just snap in place but it actually eases there especially if I go watch if I go this full distance there's a little slow down right before we hit camera doesn't catch it I don't think as well as it is the frame rate on the camera isn't as good as we need to see it in all of its glory but essentially I was running into overshoots and then you can get into these real jiggles where it just keeps overshooting the mark so you can widen that's why I have a slop of about two positions you can widen that or use other sort of PID types of algorithms in your code to get there without blowing past it so let's take a look at the specific code that I've got going here um so I'm importing some libraries here that I need for the motor stuff, PWMIO and Adafruit motor I need analog to read the slide pot and I've got touch I O for the slide or rather for the touch by the way one thing that you can see I don't know if you've noticed this is that I do have one control hooked up right now which is the brightness of the neopixel that's on the feather so you can see when I get down to the bottom here of the pot I've kind of flipped around we get that neopixel turning off and as I go all the way up to the top it's full brightness on the red channel and then when I let it go you can see it's going to head to a position and give us that relative brightness on the neopixel so I've got neopixel in there I've got digital I O so that we can read these buttons here and I think you might need digital I O for setting up the PWM pins if I remember correctly optional MIDI setup I'm just setting up a USB MIDI to send out a value over one of the MIDI CC's chose MIDI CC 16 here setting up buttons as I do these debouncer yeah so these are debouncer buttons which I like here's my little list of saved positions so going between 240 180 120 and 40 so this should get to close yeah close to close to pretty close almost exactly there nope now it nailed it on that one then I'm setting up analog read for the slide pot on A0 and turning that 0 to 655 35 range to 0 to 255 and that's the I think that's the granularity I'm using for the motion and maybe by checking against that full value we'd be able to have more accurate motor motion can't remember setting up a couple pins for PWM those are the ones that talk to the little motor driver chip and then using the motor driver DC motor and setting the two channels to these two pins set up touch I O on board A4 and then setting up the Neo pixel and then for some of this motion stuff I got I found a nice clamp method just on a google search here that allows me to keep my speed within negative one to one range if it goes beyond that it'll crash the motor driver so we have to constrain our values within those and that is because I am adding a little bit to the speed so that it never gets too slow you can't move below about I think 0.1 from 0.1 to 1 or negative 0.1 to negative 1 if you go slower than that the motor just can't be turned it won't it won't overcome the inertia and actually get going and that's just an issue with these little DC motors so I'm adding a little bit to the value except I don't want it to exceed the bounds of negative 1 and 1 then I am setting it's time to move so this is this little function I made go to position new position we find out where the fader is where the slide pot is and then while the difference between where it is and where we want to go is greater than 2 then we start moving by adding throttle so motor one throttle speed if you set that to 1 it just goes full speed so it's the same for the negative direction forever and ever same with negative 1 but we want it to stop and so that's why we're doing this feedback servo feedback loop and then I'm also while we're moving not just when I grab it while it's moving I'm having it send a midi cc value and this seems to still work great I was worried this might slow down the whole motion thing but it didn't change the speed in any direction just when the fader needs to go left or right basically or up or down then when we arrive there I turn off the throttle so it just stops stop sending any current to the motor in either direction that just puts it into it stops moving around you can use the stop by setting it to 0 but that seems to cause anger and overshooting I'm not sure why this is my start up sequence here just I go to a couple of my saved positions I don't know why I didn't do all four but there you go and I'm also printing the values out that was just for debugging and then I set my current saved position to that state that I can check to see which which of these four button positions were at and then here's the main loop so I check the buttons and if one of them falls then I you can see here I'm printing out hey button one was pressed then it changes that current saved position to be 0 1 2 or 3 when I touch that all it does is turn the throttle to none when I am not touching it it says go to positions that's calling that little function I have go to position of whatever the saved positions list has the 180 120 80 40 or whatever I had it'll go to one of those and it's whichever one we have a button press for initially it's 0 any time I press a button I'm changing which one of those is stored and then this is the filter stuff that this is the filter stuff that Todd bought helped me out with both for reading I should say both for reading the analog read neatly and you can see this is a really nice clean analog read doesn't jump around which is great so this is a nice little filter algorithm here that I've used before that Todd has posted I think on his tips and tricks and his analog read off to double check if that's the case but it lets you adjust your filter amount I made a little variable here so we can have it kind of the analog read will sort of take a little bit of time to ease into a value or it'll get there pretty quickly and hopefully still not jitter I am changing the LED red component red component to be whatever the fader position is that's at 0 to 255 so that works well and then here is this is the kind of what do we do when we change the fader so that could be nothing I could just be you know go there print out your position that's what these lines do here so that's if the current position is different than the last fader position which is the saved state then we just print the position out it's all I'm doing right there and then update that saved state to be the current one so it just continues this is my little optional demo thing here which I probably won't put into the main example on the guide because people want to do their own thing there maybe it's just all about controlling neopixels maybe it's controlling some big motor on a robot whatever you're doing goes here and so what I decided to do is take that fader position divided by 2 that gives me 0 to 127 and that's the range of a midi CC message and then all I have right here is midi send a control change fader number and the fader CC fader number was that channel essentially channel 16 or CC number 16 that I chose so actually if I open up let me open up a midi monitor here I like this little midi monitor app and let me share that real quick real time changes to my broad DC business hold on black hole for a moment are you midi monitor are you all big like that huh so here all you'll see is I can tell this to read out what's happening on some midi device here you can see I only have one thing that's showing up as a midi device that's circuit python USB midi ports 0 that's the fader here and so as I change this slider I am sending out messages anywhere from 0 to 127 and you can see as I use the motor memory to go back to one it'll repeat repeatedly fairly reliably get back to that position so this is let's see this one sends midi CC value 89 and so if I grab it move somewhere else let go it goes back to 89 which is so cool so I wanted to besides showing you numbers I wanted to give you a little example of that in action so let me pop up some windows here get rid of that and here oh was I showing you midi did you see the midi messages because I don't know if I pushed that camera change to the feed let me know did you see midi monitor show up let me know yeah big serious drink bottle thank you DJ Devin you did see the midi thing I'm so glad yeah sometimes I can make changes that don't actually push out to this sort of active canvas okay so here I've got a little patch I built in VCV rack a virtual modular synthesizer I'm going to turn on an external speaker over here and I just have some sort of sawtooth wave I think play in in my midi to CC midi CC to CV module here I'm picking the feather m4 express circuit python and I've already set it up so that channel is this port right here and then that runs out to the frequency of a filter which is going to adjust the cutoff of a low pass filter oh I put the wrong camera down there so you get the idea there the unfortunately this one doesn't I think this module doesn't automatically visualize so that knob should be turning and basically everything I was doing there would be the same as if I grab that knob right there except the flying fader is more fun and it has preset stored really easily right I can I can jump to these three three or four rather four that makes it so much easier to say these four preset positions so I'm so excited I've never had a flying fader before motorized slide pot to play with I'm really happy with how quickly this this came together this was this was not difficult to to sort of get up and running in circuit python and I think it'll be straightforward in Arduino and in make code as well so long as we have PWM driver type of action that I can use to make the motor do its thing what else yeah so you know the the dream of course with these is a huge bank of them but that gets expensive quickly I think it was about $25 piece I am probably going to try something using motor feather wing as well which has four outputs so we could do multiple of these off of one feather wing but this little circuit that I've got here that's a that's pretty pretty easy and like I said I think it's a dollar or something for that chip so not too bad also I'll point out while I'm showing cool stuff let me bring up bring up this window right here hey there you go which window is that are you this no I keep pulling myself I've got two chrome windows that it could be it's that one okay if you look here let's see L 9 1 0 L 9 1 1 0 I had it wrong that is the H bridge motor driver it's a dollar fifty so that's what I'm using to control the motor on there and let me see button assortment do we have yeah so this tactical tactile not tactical this tactile switch assortment is where I got these twelve millimeter by I think seven millimeter buttons the white ones that you see right right here these are great I really like them the breadboard friendly they're nice and big and clicky easy to easy to use for this so that was nice to get those in and have some to play with I'm actually kind of hoping that more will put in stock big bags of the individual one so you can say okay I love that one I just want 10 of just that one or 50 of them who knows your plans are so I think that's gonna do it that's the flying fader way cool if anyone knows about fader caps that are metal or maybe maybe even some conductive filament for 3D printed cap I'd love to love to try something with that I made this extra big cutouts and the ends cut out unnecessarily so we can kind of see all the parts of it but typically you'll just cut a small slit for the track there so you don't have to see all that you get a nice integrated feel I'll probably do some laser cut versions of that just because laser cut stuff is perfect for these types of surfaces I think that's gonna do it so let's see what's happening discord and youtube chat Todd has found a tactical switch cover Nintendo switch very cute alright well hey thank you again for stopping by thanks for attempting to help me with my install there sorry we didn't get a circuit python parsec I will figure that out on the install here and do a recording of that so we'll have a little bonus follow up circuit python parsec I think that's gonna do it for today thanks everyone for stopping by for Adafruit Industries I'm John Park this has been JP's workshop John Park's workshop it even says it right there bye bye