 Hey guys welcome back to my channel or welcome if you're new for those of you who don't know me. My name is Sam I'm a licensed hairstylist and today We are going to be talking all about how to properly color your hair at home and my professional recommendations From sally's beauty supply long before I ever went to beauty school I was always coloring my hair myself And I practically lived in sally's for a few years there Please keep in mind that a whenever you were coloring your hair at home yourself You're doing a chemical process. So you have to you know proceed with caution do it at your own risk B. There's no guarantee like I cannot just do a quick video and teach every single person watching Everything that there is to know about hair color. There's so much to it There's a reason why we have to go to school and get licensed to do this But hopefully this video will give you like a good understanding of the basics There are three different types of color generally speaking you have your permanent Demi permanent and semi permanent permanent color is going to give you the most coverage So it's really ideal if you are trying to cover grays It's also going to last the longest and it can give you lift So if your goal is to have a color lighter than your current color Permanent is the way to go and bleach and high lift colors would also fall into this permanent color category Once you use permanent color on your hair, there's no way to Undo it and go back to your virgin unnatural hair You just have to let it grow out and cut it out and permanent colors Do you need to be mixed with a developer? Demi permanents are going to give you a little bit less coverage and they can fade over time Demi's are really ideal for toning your hair or if you want to change up your color But you don't want to be committed to a permanent color and you want it to eventually fade over time Demi is a great option and demi permanents also need to be mixed with developer And then you have semi permanents which do not need to be mixed with developer It's like what you see is what you get. These are your fashion colors typically or like color depositing shampoos It's basically just like a stain you have your color you apply it directly to the hair Let it sit for a little while and then it is what it is if say you are starting out with black hair And you want to do a pink semi permanent It's not going to work think of it It's as simple as like if you were coloring with crayons If you colored on a piece of paper with a black crayon first and then you took pink over top of that black You're not going to see the pink There's no lifting or lightening involved is literally you're taking the color of your choosing and you're putting it on top of Whatever you're starting with and they will wash out after a few weeks So as far as picking your color first you need to decide Okay, do I need a permanent a demi or a semi permanent and I already explained what all of those are So from there you can kind of determine based on what your goal is Which one you want to use and sally's does have several color brands In their store and I know it can be a little bit overwhelming But I feel like a safe bet is just going with the ion brand That's kind of like their staple and it was my go-to for years and years So it's what I feel most comfortable recommending and you know what I have experience with Now when you're actually picking the specific shade of your color All of the colors are going to have a level and then an undertone So levels are from one to ten one being the darkest black Ten being lightest blonde Some lines will have like a level 11 and 12 Also, but just know that it goes from darkest to lightest And then the undertone is either going to be cool neutral or warm ashes are going to be cool Naturals are going to be neutral typically and then golds are going to be warm What's nice and sally's is that all of their colors have swatches So I highly suggest just looking at the color swatches and not getting Too caught up on the actual color name For example a level five, which is right in the middle is technically considered a light brown But when you actually look at level five hair It's not light like most people would consider that more of a medium Even leaning on dark brown based on what I saw in sally's for all of the ion colors The swatches looked pretty accurate to What the colors are you have to keep in mind though unless you are going to be bleaching your hair first Your final color the color that you end up with is always going to be a combination of Your starting color plus the artificial color that you apply to your hair So your result may not look exactly like that swatch depending on What color you are starting with especially when you're trying to go lighter But if you are trying to go like the same shade that you are just a different undertone or darker Then you'll be pretty safe just looking at the swatches and picking your color that way Of course, don't forget with your permanent and demi permanent colors. You need developer So don't forget to grab that as well Developer is going to activate the color that you're using if you were to take a permanent tube of color and just apply that straight to your hair It's not going to do anything without mixing it with the developer first And what that developer is doing is it's opening up the hair cuticle so that the color molecules can go into your actual hair strands In sally's they have 10 volume 20 volume 30 volume and 40 volume developer The bigger the number the stronger the developer is so if you are just looking to deposit color Meaning you don't want your hair to get any lighter. You just want it to be either like the same level or darker Whether you're using permanent or demi permanent color You're going to want to use 10 volume 10 volume is always going to give you the least amount of lift It's essentially just going to deposit the color onto your hair 20 volume and higher is always going to give you lift Now generally speaking when you are using color Not bleach, but just hair color permanent hair color 20 volume is going to give you two levels of lift 30 volume is going to give you three levels of lift and 40 volume is going to give you four levels of lift So that kind of gives you an idea of what volume developer you need to use Depending on what your goal is if you are covering grays you want to use 20 volume I know you might be thinking oh well you said if I just want to deposit color And I just want to go darker then I should only use 10 volume That isn't the case with gray hair because gray hairs tend to be more stubborn and coarse So you need that extra lifting power to really open up the cuticle so that the gray hair can accept the color So if you have gray hair 20 volume if you're looking to just refresh your color But you don't want to go through the whole hassle of like mixing and formulating and all of that a color depositing shampoo Which is considered a semi permanent color is a really great way to go I saw that wella has their color fresh color depositing shampoos Now if you are trying to lighten your hair using regular permanent color is only going to lighten Virgin hair say you're a natural brunette and you've been dyeing your hair black every month for the last year And now you decide that you want to be a light brown You're not going to be able to just take a light brown color Use 40 volume developer and get a light brown Your hair is probably either not going to do anything or it's going to be like an orange color You may have heard the saying before but color does not lift color So if you have virgin hair meaning you have not colored your hair at all before it's completely natural Then yes, if you want to lighten your hair you can use permanent color You can get your light brown or blonde color You can use 20 30 or 40 volume and it will lighten your hair a little bit Is it going to give you the exact results that you want after just one application? Not necessarily depending on your starting color and the texture of your hair You may have to do that application a few times and keep lightening it more and more over time But typically I recommend if you are looking to lighten your hair to use high lift color It's going to pack a little bit more of a punch than just regular permanent color It is meant to lift your hair like the name suggests high lift sally's has the l'oreal high color line Which i've used many times in the past back in the day It's meant for dark hair. They have brunettes reds and blonde colors with high lift You're typically going to mix that either with 30 or 40 volume developer Again, if you have previous dark color on your hair, it might not lighten It really depends how many layers you have how dark that color is You might have to do a color remover beforehand Ion has a color remover now It's a powder that you just mix with water So it will kind of help to fade your color a little bit while still being gentle and not like Completely stripping your hair or bleaching it or being too harsh So if you are trying to go lighter and you have dark artificial color on your hair I would do a color remover first I love using bleach on my own hair and on clients, but you really have to be careful and Proceed with caution with it because color high lift color included will stop working after a certain amount of time But bleach will just keep going until it fries your hair off Basically and you can really cause a lot of damage if you don't know what you're doing So if you're brand new at coloring your hair, I Would caution you to stay away from bleach But if you feel comfortable using it and you want to use it Ion has a cream lightener That's going to be gentler. I wouldn't recommend the big tub of the quick blue stuff That stuff is intense and can be very very harsh and I have Oh cause a lot of damage to my hair using that stuff in the past So I would go the route with like the cream lightener It's going to be a little bit more conditioning and whenever you are using bleach you can use whatever developer you want I do not recommend using 40 volume with bleach Again, unless you really know what you're doing because it can be very drying and very damaging Typically with bleach you're going to want to use either 20 or 30 volume developer Remember how I said earlier 20 volume developer will give you two levels of lift 30 volume will give you three levels, etc That only is the case when it comes to color When you are using bleach All of that lift is just coming from the actual bleach product itself The developer when you're mixing it with bleach is only going to determine How fast it's going to lighten your hair. So 10 volume is going to be the most gentle It's going to work the slowest, but it's going to work the longest 40 volume is going to be the most intense and the driest. It's going to work the fastest, but it will burn out quicker So usually whenever I'm bleaching hair. I like to stick with 20 or 30 volume developer Now as far as application, this is super important to know if you want your results to actually look Professional and good when you are going darker with permanent color You want to apply the color to your roots first Your roots are your newest hair. The cuticle is a lot tighter So it's going to take a little bit longer for it to accept darker color At the roots whereas your ends it's old hair. It's more porous. It's going to suck everything up a lot quicker So apply it all over to your roots first Then pull it down through the ends. I also really suggest using a wide-tooth comb and kind of like You know working the color through really massaging it in make sure you're fully saturating every strand of hair Whenever you are trying to go lighter, you want to do the opposite You want to avoid the roots first? I would start like an inch or two below your root area Apply the color to the mids and ends first Let it sit for a little while and then apply it to the roots because your scalp gives off heat That's going to make the color process faster. It's going to make everything lighten up faster And then if you are using demi permanent color, you want to apply that to damp hair So give your hair a good shampoo Towel dry it and then apply your demi permanent color. Okay. I think That's pretty much it. There's just so much to cover and it's like I said It's impossible for me to teach color theory and exactly how to formulate color in just one youtube video Like it's just not possible But hopefully I was able to cover the basics and you have somewhat of a better Understanding of how it all works and what to pick and what I recommend from Sally's beauty supply If you like this video and you found it helpful, please give it a thumbs up It helps me out a lot if you'd like to see more from me Don't forget to subscribe before you go and hopefully I will see you in my next video Bye