 Welcome back to the shop, Bruce here. We're going to talk now about how to tame the great white LEDs. Surface mount that is. Okay, we've got some Scotch carpet tape here. Set that off to the side. My buzzer. It's off the screen, but it's there. Some solder, a couple of pairs of tweezers, a pair of scissors, and an LED and a resistor. You need a resistor for each LED. We'll set them off to the side. Take a piece of carpet tape that I've already cut. It's got an easy backing on one side, and the tape itself pulled the backing off. Now I have a sticky surface here, and so we can jump right into the LED. These come in these tape real containers that are fairly easy to deal with, but the LEDs themselves tend to be very small and kind of difficult to see and work with. I don't care what polarity I've got here. I'm not going to watch for the polarity. I just want to get the LED out of the container and stuck down on the tape. Now what I'm going to do is take my buzzer and probe it. Well, that didn't work, so I must have the wrong polarity. So I'll come around and probe it from the other side. That's a bad LED. No, it's not a bad LED. See, it lights up right there. So the plus is going to be on the right-hand side. For the rest of this, we're going to work in a zoomed-in mode. It makes it what's going on around it a little harder to see, but it makes what we're doing so much more visible. Okay, now I've got an 820 ohm resistor here in its tape and reel. I'm going to dump it out, and I'm going to position it over here on the side of the LED that we already tested, and we know is the positive side of the LED. To make this connection, first we need to tin the leads of the LED and the resistor. So just get a little bit of heat and a little bit of solder on the resistor and on the LED. Now, see the heat damaged the tape just a little bit, so I'm going to move this over here, so I know I've got a good hold down going for me, and then I'm going to butt them right up to each other. I can get it away from the tape. It doesn't seem to want to come very easily. There we go. Now, butt them right up against each other, and then take the soldering iron and come in and just touch the tip to the joint, and didn't get it quite that first shot. Get the LED very solidly down to the tape there, but now we've got it soldered. We can test it and prove that it works. This should be the positive side. This should be the negative side. Now, you'll notice it's dimmer than it was before. You may not be able to see that on the video. It's dimmer than it was before because you have more resistance in series with it. Now, we're ready to start talking about how to deal with the white color of the bluish-white color of this LED. This is where Tamiya's acrylic clear orange paint, number X26, comes into play. Okay, I've assembled a couple of Q-tips or a couple of toothpicks and a Q-tip here. All I want to do is just dip a little of this orange paint, get a little drop on it, and add a little too much there to see if I can get about the right amount. Come down here and put just a touch of it on top of that LED. Not a whole lot. I'll take the other, take a clean toothpick and kind of smear it around just a little bit. Now, if we look at the LED, we'll see that it has a more of an incandescent look to it. What I'll do is I'll put a little bit of this on, wait a while, an hour or so. If I like the color, I'll leave it. If not, I'll come back and add a little more to it. Good luck with your LEDs.