 All right, it is Wednesday, which means we are moving right along in our sew-along checklist If you are totally confused and you don't really know how you ended up on this video Well, welcome. You were in the middle of a massive sew-along where we are making McCalls 8-1-2-1 a super cute moto jacket. We have already done all of our prep work. We've already sewn the first few steps of the pattern Based on our little checklist here we've already done all of this all of this and a couple of these steps as well and We did everything on the Tuesday checklist. Okay, so today. This is where we are Let's get to the work table get going on sewing. There are chapters that you can see only your little player timeline So if you're coming back and forth and not doing all of this in one sitting you can just start back up where you left off Okay. All right to the work table. Let's get sewing. All right, so time to sew this zipper They go into pretty decent detail about shortening a zipper If you've got the 18 inch zipper and you place it where the zipper stop is at this little dot down here Then technically your zipper should stop at this Square Clearly because I shortened my jacket because I have a smaller torso. I have to start remembering that I have way way way way way too much zipper So I am going to go through this process of shortening it for what I was able to do is take off This little metal claspy thing and hold on to that That's what is going to act as our new zipper stop when we kind of reinstall it But you need to mark your zipper your new zipper placement to do that Place the zipper stop at that little small dot down there come up this way and then mark where your Sizes little square is and then we are going to cut the We're going to remove all the zipper teeth from one eighth below that marking Make sense So mine because they're plastic is a bit of a combination of cutting them away with these and so I am basically just like cutting away the rounded ends of the teeth and then I'm coming in with this little tool here and just kind of like Removing them minor plastic so they do bend and all that but you can see they just kind of pop out once you get the once you get this little like Curved edge Snapped off or cut off. So I'm going to do that both sides of the zipper One eighth below my little marking here and then replace the stops as well. Okay, an absolute mess was made We have successfully shortened the zipper. So now it's time to attach it We are going to separate this guy So now it's in two pieces. So the right side of the zipper the one with the pole on it Goes on the right side of the jacket and the other one goes on the left side of the jacket like so We are placing our zipper stop at the small dot, which is sort of right where this Where this little point is on the bottom of your jacket And then of course we have our little square that we marked up top Mark your five eighths inch seam allowance. I think that this tape is close to five eighths It's half So I know that if I go to my machine and I place this a eighth of an inch away from the raw edge Then all the way up. Then I know I'll be hitting that five eighths inch mark So put on your zipper foot um stitch this guy down from your new stop aka the square marking all the way down to the As far as you can go along the bottom stopping at that small dot that's sort of like at the little crook of your Jacket hem band Same thing for this side make sure you've got it right side down that the teeth should be facing inside the jacket Eighth of an inch away and all the way up like so stopping at the square again All right zipper basted in We are going to give this a whirl and make sure that a few Things line up. So ideally we want this seam To be straight across here not perfect But not terrible and in fact, well, will it be it's going to be a little bit worse whenever I stitch even closer to the zipper teeth So I might want to smooch that up a little bit And then we go up to the top and don't be alarmed when you see that your neckline is like super wonky like this If you go to step 33 You can see that it's an asymmetrical zipper and so they're kind of supposed to Not be the same. Um, can you see how much lower that one is than this one here? So don't be alarmed if you're just like that and you're like, oh god, I cut it wrong. You didn't um, so yeah, I'm gonna go and Fix this And then stitch the zipper in for realsies this time Take some time to get this zipper right because um, I think in the end it really does make a difference as to the overall Kind of look and vibe of your jacket And if this is off the littlest bit even two because mine has, you know, horizontal stripes So I want to just triple check that I can make that as Perfect as possible. All right Onward and upward we're taking piece number nine and I'm going to show you with the tissue paper Um, because I think it might be a little bit easier for you guys to see But do you see how we have the same square and the same notch as we do on this front panel? That's because this is going to get sewn like this and that is what is going to encase the zipper teeth on this right side um, so you take piece number nine And place it right sides together Like so and again with your zipper teeth just come right along this seam here and So that down right along this whole edge. It should match up, you know, one to one All right, so you do this sort of in parts So I started down here somewhere in here And stitched all the way up to here and then came back moved the zipper Pull up out of the way and then did the rest of it so you can get around this little Well get around the zipper pull and everything. Okay. So all of this gets pressed to where the zipper Tape and seam allowances all go to the left as you're looking at it And the zipper teeth face in toward the Front and because we have our little things Pinned back like in a diagonal shape when you get to the top here You can see it's finished off really nicely and you can't see any of these zipper teeth any tape anymore And you can just cut that off That said if you are not doing this with me I've got a little hack for you. You definitely do not need to remove all of the zipper teeth You really only need to remove the zipper teeth from about an inch From where the New stop is going to be an inch up and then the rest of it you can either chop off or let hang out You don't need to go through the trouble of removing everything So that should save you a little bit of time. So yeah, go ahead and press this and then our next step is to take piece number 10 Which we should have two of and that also means I need to mark my right sides right side up Right side up And we are going to be attaching them to the shoulders here both of these pieces here get attached here matching notches All right, we can set that aside. Oh go ahead and um press them pressure seams open If that's what you're doing if you're top stitching though You press them toward the yoke and then top stitch on the yoke side of the seam It's starting to look a little bit like a jacket. Maybe um, but still have so much work to do. So get your rest Eat a good meal and get ready for tomorrow where we're going to be going through everything on the thursday checklist Um, it's going to be a big day But I think it's going to be a good day. So i'll meet you back here Um for the next part of this sew along