 There you guys. I don't want to show this little circle of bill. Let me just bring it out here and I'll show you what we got. Basically this is a transformous or capacitive fed supply. A little bit different this one. So a lot of what you see out there is, you see my... Oops, didn't know I'm pointing this but... If you see my bridge rectifier there. I've got two IM4004 diodes down the bottom. And I've got two 18 volt zenas here. And this gives me effectively an 18 volt supply DC directly from the mains. It's current limited by these two capacitors. They're 330 nm each in parallel, 400 volts. I'm going round about 37 mA at that voltage. But it drops down about 42 mA with this LED at around about 1011 volts. Now it was about 12 volts when I was using these wires. I'm not connected directly to the negative side to the resistor here of the load. And the positive side to the LED. And I think the reason why is because obviously with these connections and these sockets the resistance goes up because of the extra connections and it not being very good. And so I've actually dropped the resistance now across this. And we're down to sort of 10 volts. And I'm sure now that the milliamp will probably have changed as well. So anyway, we'll have a look at that to an amputage check on it. And then I've got a one mega ohm resistor here. And that's just to help bleed this off. And there's a 10 ohm resistor. And basically that's the circuit's fuse. So let's just flip the circuit on. It's in 7.8 volts. I'm going to say it should be a little bit higher. Maybe this is the difference here. And as you can see, there's no point in turning it on. I actually can't turn it back on in the head. So 7.9 volts. So what I'm going to do is disconnect that. And I'm going to set this down here. I'm going to take this off. What I expected to do is give us more voltage. By just using these connections to offer a little more resistance. Let's see if this works. OK, so I think now the voltage will be higher. 7.7 ohm. Why do you think that is? And I suppose my incoming mains, of course, is going to rise and fall a little bit. But that's quite a jump. That's like 2.3 volts. So I can check my incoming mains. Because if I just move these wires, that seems to be accumulating. I don't know if they're out of the way. This one and this. I've got 250 volts coming in. Hmm. I need to have a little think about this. OK, so I was trying to figure out what had happened then. What it seems to be. I've dropped down the power supply there. It started off with 17 volts. OK, I should put it to 18 really. Because that's what the open voltage is on this. I've taken the capacitors out. I just wanted to measure that they were OK and still function. That's what they're supposed to be doing. I'm going to try them. I think that's right. And I've got the other one in here. OK, that one's showing a bit further off on the other one. That one's saying 324. It's supposed to be 330. The other one said 327.6 ohms. Pop this one. There's no power on. That's easy. I need both my hands. So that seems to be OK. There's no problems there. I suppose in some ways I'd prefer it to drop the power. And have the power rise now. Let me just take this through here. You can see that there's a lot of cables hanging in here. This is the display I have on the bench. And that enables me to see what I'm using on this bench. I'm not quite sure why I just showed you that. It had some significance inside my head, but I've seen to have lost that significance. Right, so as I was saying about this circuit, so it regulated 18 volts here. I put those capacitors in. So I can chop this down now. You can see. That's a very good sign. Now, I wonder. I wonder, I wonder, I wonder. I think I just killed the Zenas. I've got to check. OK, so this circuit doesn't really like to be a well-opened circuit. Well, at least that's what I'm starting to work out, because I've just killed another two Zenas, so we've got four there now. So let's give that a little flip down. 19 and a half volts. I'm not going to let it go up any higher than that. So I've got to find out if that's what might be killing the Zenas. However, it's supposed to say it. So, I'm going to put the load back on. That seems to be a little bit higher going through there now. There shouldn't be any reason. I mean, it's the rating volts of Zenas. I must admit, I didn't test those two. These ones here, I tested by putting them on my power supply. Taking them up to, like, you know, sort of 16 volts. Giving a current limit of 10 milliamps. And then just taking them up to, like, you know, just under 18 volts and I, it kicked in, started conducting the 10 milliamps when I crossed them. So I know that the Zenas are working, and that the correct voltage. So, by the way, I'm going to put this load back on again. This should be fine. So I expect it again to probably drop down to about 12 volts, maybe 12 and a half. And this thing should give us the same sort of illumination as that. Just set that up. Okay, so I found the... And it did pop that in, so we've got a bit of a load. It looks exactly the same. 9.5 volts. That's going to move around a little bit. What we're hoping to see is a constant current. So I'm just going to swap this over now so we can, by the best way that I can actually do it. I know, well, I think there's another way. I'll have to look it up. We'll have to measure the load, but I'm just going to do it the basic way. Set 3. 30 million. So, yeah, it is actually drawing less current through it now, than what it was earlier. It's exactly the same setup. I may have moved holes in which I've put the things into, but that's what it starts drawing. 30 million. At 9 volts. What did we say it was? It was 9. 9 volts, yeah. 31 milliamps. Should I get this right? If I do... 31 times 9, divided by 1000. 0.27, 9 watts. I wonder if that sounds right. That does sound right, doesn't it? I could do that. I could do it on that power supply over there. So it's 9 volts, 31 milliamps. I can see what the power is on it. Maybe I'll have to do that. I'm going to do it. So, yeah, I was just thinking to myself, well, I suppose it could make a cheap little plug-in nightlight, but considering the danger of the actual circuit and the enclosure that you'd have to put it in, the political capacitors are expensive. The 400 volt, these polystyrene film, whatever they are, polyester, poly... Whatever. The film capacitors, anyway. Yeah, they're pretty expensive. I suppose it has got a reduction in cost if you thought about it like that, because for that DC smoothing capacity, you don't need a high voltage. Unlike on some of the other ones, like in the LED lights, I've got kits that I bought from China. That's what made me start looking at these transformless power supplies, because the kits I got from China just startled me to if they were going to be safe or not. And really, I suppose the hour as long as they're enclosed. As you can see, that actual amperage is pretty regulated. That's because the capacitors are doing that. The voltage I expect to see it move around more so than the amperage. I keep pausing it to set it up, but I could just fast forward those bits. Let's take that off there. Don't mind that for a minute. You might as well see what it pulls on the amperage as well. Just for the sake of it. A bit of wire. So I'll just pop that into that. Put this onto here. So what we've got is... We've got this fan. I don't know what it draws, but it's going to be more than the LED. It's got a buck converter on there. That one's powered. It's got a... Well, you can't see it. Actually, let's do that again. So what we've got here is we've got a buck converter. There's the LED. Let's move that a bit. And of course the fan. This is a 12 volt fan. Regulated with the buck converter there. And it's this one. I want to be looking at. The one directly below my finger there. And you can't see that from there. So let's see if we can see this as well, because that's the amps. There, when this all goes on. And I'm going to switch it down. I'm going to point it out again for that one. That's what I think it's going to go. It may not go. I don't know this, because I've got another one here now that I didn't know before when that happened. So let's see what happens. Yeah, it don't seem to have had enough power to do anything. It hasn't blown this time. And I wonder if that's because that is there. I wonder if it's because I've got it drawn through the amp meter instead. But what I'm going to do to test my sort of theory is take out this bleed resistance. Because my theory is, because this is here, it's just altered in the circuit a little bit. It's kind of magnetic, that is. Sort of really magnetic. I mean, that is pretty damn magnetic, isn't it? What? Okay. Not so good on there. That is definitely magnetic. That certainly wasn't like that earlier on. All those... Nope, it's this. It's the resistor, because all these things have not just become magnetic. My screwdriver and my long nose pliers. Let's get the cutters. Oh, well it doesn't happen with these. I wonder why that is. Anyway, back to the plan. So here we are. This one again. Let's see what happens. It's trying to go through its maximum. What it can pull there, but that's not enough to do that. So... I wonder why that frazzled out. It's nice to see, though, that the circuit won't pull more than, you know, 38 million. 35, I suppose that was enough still to cause some sort of damage now. Of course, these won't be discharged now. There you go, that little crack. Just a little tiny, I suppose, yeah. A right, crisp, it's a little crack. I've got to use this so I can see better. I'm going to put that back in there, because I do prefer to have a bleed resistor. And as it doesn't seem to make any difference now, because of the amount we've been playing around with this circuit, that's okay. Well, it certainly doesn't have enough power to get this going, but it does have enough to... for us to have an LED. Which is great. But it still seems quite a... quite a dangerous way of illuminating. And then, indeed. There we go. And with that, I think that's enough playing around with this little thing just for the meantime. Then what we've worked out is it pulls the voltage down, which is regulated. The fuse... We worked earlier. I think I didn't catch that on camera, but we don't seem to have any issues even when we try and overload the circuit. It does not like not having a load there. I don't want to keep losing the Zenas, but I suppose the only way I'm going to find out is to not have that load there again and see if we lose... See if we lose. It's got to be done. It's got to be done. We're going to take the load off. Okay, just disconnect the load. I need to actually see whether it's... what it's doing on the voltage. We need to switch back to the voltage. Switch back to the voltage. So we can monitor that, because that's how we're going to know whether those Zenas are died. Zenas. I still want to speak English. UK English, British, not American. Right, so... There we go. I wonder if that's just connected to that. That will just keep rising, won't it? Ooh. I think I see charge doing things and not being used, and then it just keeps gaining and gaining and gaining bit by bit, and then of course that means the Zenas then will... Oh. I don't know. I'm just jibbering a bit now. I don't hope they still work. We'll see in a second, because it will say that's still okay. I'm going to say that's still okay. So, there we go, cheers for watching. Bye.