 Okay today's project is this copper that you see going to this boiler was damaged when a car ran through this wall. So as you noticed up here in this corner you can see that goes up goes across goes up over lots of up and downs and there's some bleed ports here and there. I don't like having to go around spot to spot trying to bleed things. So what I want to do today is make this so we can power bleed it. As you can see they have a bypass up here on top. They can go around the slow fill, auto fill. So we've got circulator pumps pushing the water out. You've got an expansion tank here that's shot, auto bleeder on top that don't work. You've got a gauge here that's bad. You've got a drain down there that don't work. And so what I want to do is make it so that I can valve off here and here and then when I add the water in it'll pressurize up to that. It'll go through the system out through the check valves all the way through the system back again and then when it comes back down to here I'll be able to bleed it out through a boiler drain pushing all the air along through. Most of the system is in series. I believe there might be a couple spots where it's in parallel but even if it is this is going to get a good majority of the air out and it's gonna be a lot easier than trying to do a lot of bleeding here and there. And since all these things need to be done it just makes sense go ahead and get them done now. This here is completely jacked. It won't come off. It won't open up at all. I mean it turns but it doesn't let no water out unfortunately. Alright this is pretty sweet. Basically when you screw this in there it ends up pushing the little seal up so that it lets the water and pressure and temperature in but when you back it out to change it it actually seals up. Now I'm sure it probably won't last very long but it's a neat idea. Here and stuff like that but that's been a lot more work a lot more money. This is a agency that helps the public I should say so we're trying to keep the costs down so budgets and stuff are tight especially at this day and age. I used my regular drill bits the last time but honestly the stepping drill bit I think's gonna work out better just because just because I had to end up using them anyway. There's the joint. I put a lot more heat on this one which made a nice smooth round shoulder around it. Went ahead and pulled it in there. You can see that burn marks have come all the way up to here which means we pulled all the way into the socket. You don't see no goobers or any of that other crap. Got a little bit here where basically I hit it with too much sprays rod but for the most part it's gonna work out just fine and it's gonna be very strong. I mean it's not going to move at all. Then we have the same thing over here with this one right here. I didn't run it quite as hot so it took a lot longer but we built a nice big shoulder around that and like I said we're deep into that copper there so it definitely saved them some money and this is gonna work just fine. Also been using a little six inch wrench here to a point trying to over monkey grip this thing here and just absolutely wail on it. Totally wail on it. Alright so we've got that valve off there. We get that valve off there. The water is going to come in from the water heater here. Gonna bypass the fill valve. It's gonna come in, go into the auto bleed. It's gonna go down to here, come back to these pipes and it's going to stop. So it's only choice then to go through the circulator pumps, go out to the loop which is out and around that way then it'll eventually return back to here. Will it get all the air? Not always but it's gonna get a good majority of it out. Let it roll. Now unfortunately yes this is gonna put new fresh water in there which is gonna have more oxygen in it so right now we should be starting to come back here in a minute but you know that's quite a bit of water. Make sure we're getting air out of this. I'm not hearing any air out of it though. Hopefully I don't have zone valves on this. If they do that could cause us some issues which might be why this one had air coming out of it and the other one didn't. Very good. Shut that down. We can find out real quickly. There's some water. Look at that. Our pressure right now is 20 pounds. So starting stopped awfully quick. We're gonna open this a touch which is gonna push all that water from there back over to here as you put that up there that way I can see whether it's coming out or not. This likely is the one that's further away. Pressure's coming up a little bit higher in a care floor about 20. It's not horrible. If that 30 mark it should pop off the pop off which obviously I'm an idiot because I am looking at the wrong one. Alright so pressure's up on top. Temperature's on bottom. I was looking up here and they had that Celsius there and I seen the 20. I still know where near the pressure zone. Yeah there we go. I can look at the air coming out where you teach me this which obviously it's nothing super unknown or anything like that but it's always been the way I prefer to do it over the years whenever I get the opportunity. It just makes sense and it seems to work really well and you'll know when you got it because she'll quit doing that little spurt and stuff like that. That's the chunks of air coming out. Unfortunately yeah we're putting clean water in there which probably is going to cause more rust and stuff like that but at this point when you're taking out about what was that 45 foot or more of piping you know you've got a lot of water going to be put into it so it's this way here we just get it all clean and start over. Alright so we've got it in there a little bit better. This pipe ain't perfectly straight and that piece there is so badly rusted I don't want to get crazy on it so we've got it to wide open ready to roll and I go ahead and turn her on. Hopefully that will help. I hope that's hooked up something. I wonder if this don't work or if it came unplugged or what the deal is. We're gonna find other things that we didn't know was wrong. Great. We'll turn that power off so don't close something up. This actually goes right there. Somebody snapped all the things off of it when they replaced it at one time so you're not gonna be able to do a whole lot with it unfortunately. You can try wire tying it somehow but I don't see that working. So far we've got that cable. The circulator pumps feel like they're running. I feel warped definitely there. Not so much there so we need to go turn that one up. So both of them are now calling Zone 1, Zone 2, I don't believe it's Zone 3. Primary loop pump that's the one down here. For you new guys the primary secondary loops and what they do on some of these high-pitched boilers because you got to have constant temperature through it. I forget exactly the reason basically so you don't shock the boiler but basically what they'll do is they'll circulate the hot water out of the boiler to a header and right back again. So that one just circulates that water just up from here to there and down. It just goes back and forth back and forth. While it's doing that these two zone circuits here or the supply side comes in goes out and it comes back and then it passes through that right there and then it picks up the heat and keeps on doing its thing. That one's getting warm. It's starting to get warmer. This one here I don't really want to hold on to. That's getting down to the mid 40s at night. Unfortunately that one's getting hot all the way up here. You got to watch when you're filling around for things too because sometimes the pipe will just pick up radiant heat so you want to go a little further away. It's picking it up which like here they got an auto bleeder up there. It probably doesn't work miss likely and like I said that's a lot of the reason why I just wanted to get rid of all that crap. This right here you see how easy it was. I didn't have to go around the building getting water on the floor but if you have a big parallel loop that can be a lot more difficult but you know it's no different than a geothermal loop when they're bleeding nose it just comes down to balling and how fast you're moving the water. So I'm going to set my arrow where that one's out there. Not a rise a little bit potentially as we get to warmer. It's still cool but like I said it's inside the building. It's got to come all the way through that so that's the longest run. This one here is the front which we got hot going out so it'll be coming back for long but it's finally starting to come up the temperature. So we'll check it right in this area here. About 153 ish area. So 170 there. So that's 68 so we're good there on that. Darker the color the more accurate it'll be when you're running in 0.95. You can see the difference. Here's black. Black really is accurate. So one of the things you can do is you literally put a piece of black electro tape on the pipe and it'll read a little more accurate especially to have a shiny object. Works pretty good. We're gonna go inside and take a look around and see. See we're a little cooler here. 148 there. 86 there. Obviously we're heating up. It's just a matter of time. All right as I was saying here's those new pipes that we were in. I can hear water. So I may need to bleed this one a little bit more. It's getting warmer but I think they had a key bleeder up on that one there. Yeah we're 96. So I may use that key bleeder. See how it sounds over here. Yeah I can hear water in it. It's hotter than heck. You can hear the water and you do more bleeding. All right so we'll shut the boiler off isolated because you don't want to shock it. And right now we're power bleeding it. This time we're hitting it hard with more pressure. I can feel it shaking as it's getting the air out. The big thing here is getting the volume push it up and down and around. It's very likely some places where it might be in parallel which make it near impossible. But we're getting stuff out big time I can feel it. Yeah there it goes again. We'll get her. I'm just gonna do it at the boaster it's like I did before. But now that we know it's getting hot through we know it's just got a little bit to go. Oh yeah look at that. All right so the entry way here has one of these. So I took this down there's a fan switch and drain and all that to bleed it. Coil's bad. All that wonderful stuff all over the place. All over me. I washed most of this off but unfortunately somebody didn't mark that. So that one don't work. All right so here's the back room area. This is the same thing. It's got valves on it but no bleeders. The problem with this whole system is it are all on monoflow tees. And a monoflow tee basically is not a normal tee it has a scoop. So it just scoops the water in goes through a circuit comes back down its back ends it scoops it into it. And the problem with those is is power bleeding doesn't work real good. It worked pretty good. Most everything is pretty hot. There's a little bit of water swashing here and there. So it got a good majority of the main I want to call it a trunk line the water line. Basically all that's left is just this stuff that needs you know fine tuned blood out and stuff like that. So this one here you're going to turn on the fan and then it'll blow heat through the coil. But I don't feel any heat coming through here and I don't see any good way to bleed it. I see back to back freaking shark bites and ball valves but I don't even know good. But otherwise everything's just about done. I need to get some extra auto bleeds short of that. Everything's working pretty well gone good. So it would have really sucked trying to do the main bleed plus all this. So my design worked pretty good.