 For this tutorial, I'm going to use a basic torso for both back and front patterns. First, I'm going to trace my torso sloppers on a patterned paper. Notice that I didn't trace the front and back waist darts and only the shoulder bust dart because we are not going to use the waist darts since this whole garment will be cut on bias. Next, from both back and front waist lines, mark down 6 inches or 15.2 centimeters. And from these marks, draw horizontal lines for both back and front patterns. Next, from the side or arm holes, I will decrease them by 1 inch or 2.5 centimeters. And using my curve ruler, I will reshape the arm holes. Next, I will transfer the shoulder bust dart to the side seam. From the side seam at arm hole, I'm going to mark down 1 inch or 2.5 centimeters. From this mark, I'm going to draw a slant line going towards the bust point. Next, I will close the shoulder bust dart permanently using a masking tape. And I'm going to slash the line at the side seam until the bust point. And there you have it, a new side seam dart. And of course, I will redraw this new dart. Next, from the bust line at center front, I will mark up 4 to 8 inches or 10.7 centimeters. Draw a horizontal line like this one. Next, I will mark the halfway of this new line and draw another horizontal line from these marks. Next, I will cut off the shoulder part of the pattern but save it because we will use this pattern again later. And I'm going to continue cutting out the rest of my pattern from my beaver. So before I cut through the slash lines, I will close first the side seam dart permanently. Now that the dart is closed, I'm going to cut through the slash lines hitting the dart to flatten out the pattern. Next, I'm going to place my pattern on another pattern beaver for the spreading technique. First, I'm going to tape the first slash line in place, like this one. From the first slash line, I'm going to mark up 1.68 inches or 4.5 centimeters. This is the equivalent of my side dart opening and draw a line from these marks. Next, I'm going to place the slashed panel on the 1.68 inches or 4.5 centimeters line. Make it sure it will touch and tape it in place. Next, from the second slash line, I will mark up 1.48 inches or 3.8 centimeters. And from these marks, draw another line. Next, from the slashed panel, place it on the 1.48 inches or 3.8 centimeters line and make it sure it will touch and tape everything in place. Next, from the armhole, I will draw a horizontal line. And from the center front, I will draft a vertical line, like this one. And I'm going to cut out my pattern from the paper. From the fold, I'm going to mark up 2 inches or 5 centimeters. I'm going to connect these marks and draw another horizontal line. Going back to the fold line or neckline, I'm going to fold it and trace the armhole using my tracing wheel. And I'm going to fold the line at the hip and cut out the excess. Next, I will label the top facing, the cowl, the hem facing. And of course, this will be cut on fold and placed on the bias direction of the fabric. For the back pattern, starting at the bust line or level at center back, I will mark down 1 inch or 2.5 centimeters. From this mark, mark in 1.48 inches or 3.8 centimeters and draw a line. Next, using my curved ruler, I will connect this mark towards the new armhole. By the way, this mark is where I'm going to insert my strap. Next, from the new bust line, I will mark down 2 inches or 5 centimeters for the back facing. Next, I'm going to cut out the shoulder part. By the way, save it because we will use it for later. And continuing on cutting out the rest of my pattern. Next, using another pattern beeper, I will trace out the back facing. Also, I'm going to use 2.8 of an inch of sewing allowance on top. For the facing, I will fold the line and cut out the excess. By the way, the back pattern will also be cut on fold and placed on the bias of the fabric. Before I proceed the cutting, I will decrease the side seam at armhole by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And blend this mark towards the waistline. Since this will be cut on bias or the stretchy part of the fabric, I didn't put any sewing allowances on the side seam. Next, using the back and front shoulder cut out, I'm going to take the measurement out from these patterns for the strap of the camisole. Next, I'm going to place my patterns on the bias and fold the fabric diagonally. And cut my patterns out from the fabric. And notch the important marks like the strap mark, waistline, and the hem facing line. So these are my patterns now transferred on the fabric. Since all of these are cut on bias, I'm going to do stay stitches on each panel to avoid fraying while sewing the seams. So I used the tiniest stitch from my sewing machine and this will help me do the stay stitch on the panels. Next, I'm going to create straps from these bias strips that I cut earlier. The straps that I want for this camisole is 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter thick. Next, I will cut off the excess so I can turn the straps inside out. Next, I'm going to bind until the halfway of the front armholes using the bias strips that I made earlier. I'm going to sew this by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter and sew only until the halfway. Next, I will topstitch the bias tape to conceal the seams at the armhole. And I am also going to do the same procedure for the other side. There you go. Next, I will search the edges of the seams. Next, I will pin and place the strap that I made directly on the fold line. Sew the fold line and the strap all together at the same time. Next, I will topstitch the facing by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter to flatten it out. I am also going to do the same procedure for the other side. So here you go. This is how it will look like when the straps are attached. Next, I will mark the strap length. And the measurement that I got earlier from my pattern is 15 inches or 38 centimeters. Since the straps are bias, I will deduct 1 inch or 2.5 centimeters. And I will place the straps on the back panel at the mark that I did earlier. I also placed the back facing so I will sew the straps and the back facing all together at the same time. I am using 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter for my sewing allowance. And I will topstitch the facing by 1 millimeter. Next, I am going to stitch the facing at the side seam. And next, I am going to match the notches and sew the side seams by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeters all together. For the finishing, I folded the hem facing and sew it by 1.48 inches or 3.8 centimeters. Yay! We're finally done! Et voila! So this is the front and as you guys can see, this cowl has a great fall because the camisole was cut on bias. And this is the side. If you have also noticed, this camisole is loose fitted, perfect for summer weather and sunny days. And the back. I strategically placed the straps 3 inches away from each other just to make it sure that the straps won't fall when it's worn. By the way you guys, comment down below if you have any questions and I'll make it sure to answer you guys as soon as possible. Don't forget to give this video a huge thumbs up and subscribe to my YouTube channel La Modeles and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. A piento!