 So today I am super excited to finally be working on a Toshiba brand television Now Toshiba has been long thought of as like the fourth or fifth best possible Brands for CRT televisions and I found some really good ones But the one we're working on today is brand new to me and it's got a flat screen. Yes I'm talking about the Toshiba 24 AF 45 and this is a color television Analog only television. It's got a lot of great inputs including composite and S video and even a component Input that Toshiba called color stream. So it has all the potential to be a great CRT However, it is loaded with some problems and some secrets So hopefully this video will help you decide if you want to get one of these televisions Or if you already have one of these televisions You'll be able to use this guide and this information to get the best out of your Toshiba 24 AF 45 Before we go into the CRT. I have to give you a big warning This is the most dangerous television CRT line that I have ever worked on There's a big chance that you could take a real shock from the anode cap on this CRT So please make sure you watch this entire video before you decide to open your Toshiba 24 AF 45 up and try to do something inside it. Please. Please. Please watch this. It may save your life Okay, so with the warning out of the way, we're gonna jump into the Toshiba 24 AF 45 And we're gonna reveal all the good the bad and the ugly Well back here in the very unattractive garage shop Self-loading area of retro tech and this is where the larger CRT sit in all the back Stock of parts as well as the boneyard and one of the CRTs I'm working on today is actually one of the larger ones So it has to stay outside for the most part and what I'm looking at today is actually this lovely Toshiba set It's a flat screen standard definition analog television from the early 2000s it's got a great picture, but it definitely needs some servicing so I'm just kind of getting the first look at this set to begin with and The issues here are at startup. We have some glitching on the screen This set has a nice amount of inputs. We've got what's called color stream from Toshiba But that's actually our component video. It does have a composite video out We have composite video in and S video, which is the signal I've been testing and of course we have RF on the front of the set There's a trap door with another set of composite video inputs and then an audio jack for Headphones very sleek design on this Toshiba inside our set. We actually have a pretty simple chassis design Obviously, this is our neck board and then our anode cap right there, which we will discharge in a second This is a quick look at the deflection yoke right there And then these are our convergence and purity adjustment rings right there And if we look around there's only a few connections. So this should be pretty easy to get apart and put together We've got our degausing cable right here and our power input And then we've got our deflection yoke connection right here And this up here is just to our speakers So we can disconnect that and We will pull everything all together. I'll pull the neck board With the chassis after I discharge it, but let's just get ready though To discharge the tube. All right, we've come to the dangerous part and you're going to see me discharge this tube But I need to warn you the way I discharge this tube is probably not the best way for this crt I'm doing it the way to kind of protect the hardware But this particular Toshiba does not have any kind of bleeder resistor built into the anode system at all So when you go in and you discharge this crt, you are always going to get A large spark. There will always be a large discharge of electricity So just be prepared for that. All right. So back to the zap. So we've got this nice big ground strap on this set And we can just plug into it right there. Then we are going to Discharge this thing right up here Um at the cap I'm going to remove the cap first and then we'll discharge everything Afterwards. Oh, I hear some You hear that Possible electricity in there. I'm hearing some in that cap right there Let's see Oh, do you hear that it flipped over There was definitely some electricity still there There's still electricity right there. I could have zapped myself. So there's always that chance Well, let's just see if anything happens when I touch the actual anode cap. Oh, I hear it You hear it? Oh We did get a zap right there. Wow do it again just to make sure I didn't really see anything, but I definitely had a zap there on this tube and We'll discharge this thing a couple more times. I'm going to let it sit and then re discharge it but That was pretty that's pretty wild. You normally don't see that on professional stuff But that that should be a big warning to anybody who's ever messed around with Consumer sets even these high-end ones like from toshiba. You could have really gotten yourself zapped on there. It's a pretty large tube Well, I'm down here in my shop and I've finished servicing the main circuit board. I'm about to show that to you so here's our main board and This area over here is the power supply area. So this was serviced As well as this area and other power supply parts here. These are our deflection capacitors So all these in this zone and this and that area and there's a couple back in here All that was serviced and then same thing with the neck board. That's what I consider to be the vital parts The rest of the board is not in high temperature areas except for the stereo audio amp and That's all those caps tested out fine. Now one more thing I had to do was the solder on this I talked about this more in a stream. I did where I worked on this board and made the cap kit But this is a lead free board. It's marked on all the boards where it says pb It says right there pb free I don't know if you could see that down there where my thumb is But it says pb free right there So this board was soldered with solder that didn't have any lead in it And now since it's been about 20 years since the solder was fresh It's definitely gotten some corrosion and it doesn't look good It's oxidized. So I've gone through and reflowed all the solder on both boards And that's something you may have to do that may be more important than the cap kit on this particular toshiba However, if you do want the cap kit, I will publish this cap kit over to my patreon Discord page. So that's where you can find the cap kit. Um, this has been clean and resoldered And the capacitors are fresh and now we can go stick this back in the tube and actually test it All right guys, excuse the poor audio. I'm sure you're capturing a lot of that sound from the crt I've got it fired back up down here. I've plugged in my standard video source. Everything is going okay Um, we got her powered on and I'm just going to let it Do its thing here for a minute. You notice we are still getting a little bit of jitters over here And this would happen the first time I turned the crt on but after it warmed up for like 30 minutes It stopped doing it. So I'm not Exactly sure Obviously, whatever we did it did not fix this problem fully and it may be something with the tube or flyback We'll have to sit here and monitor it. I'm going to let it run for a good half an hour and then we'll see how it looks It's still doing it a little bit right there We'll give it some more time. We'll come back and check and hopefully After the crt is completely warmed up for a half an hour Hopefully these Squiggly lines will stop. All right. Well, it's been over an hour and unfortunately, I'm still seeing The disruption and interference here Even beyond a standard warm-up time So this might be something where this flyback is just on its last leg now before I completely give up on this set I'm going to pull the circuit board Another time and we'll check out all those other areas on the main board that May still have some bad soldering or bad solder joints and I'm connected to my ground strap I'm not touching anything metal We're going to try to get under this cap and see if we can get a a zap. Oh, I heard it All right, so check out this I've refilled solder on this board But I don't think it's going to probably make much of a difference what I see here is A samsung flyback transformer, but the issue right here is this is a phase three lead free flyback transformer So I have to think for sure that what is happening here is the lead free solder Is degrading and breaking down within this flyback transformer and that's really That's really bad news All right, I just Installed the circuit board again and we're still seeing the issues on here With the vibrating edges and center and then you'll see Sometimes the image will swell And brightness will change where it'll go a little bit brighter and then back to Darker and I just believe that it all has to do with that flyback transformer Lots of jitters Well, it was about this point that I was ready to throw in the towel and just give up on this tosheba However, I started to troubleshoot a little bit more And I noticed that as I turned up the screen's brightness And contrast to above normal standards It would actually balance out the tube and we no longer had the distortion along the sides of the edges I've managed to make the image a little bit more stable by increasing the brightness And the contrast up to the levels above 45 I've got contrast at 48 brightness at 46 and by doing that It's almost stabilized the picture and it's helping that flyback Produce a more consistent image now. It does look a bit Bloomed out you might say or there's a little bit too much Screen like if you have an all dark screen For example If your screen's all dark, it doesn't actually show dark But when you turn it down To the proper darkness level and blackness level it's going to cause the flyback to start to shake And do all the things that you saw before because now The screen's looking really good after just a short warm-up time But you see how that is you still see a kind of gray show through that And that is just because the brightness is up a bit too high But that's the way the TV likes it. So we're going to leave it like that Our Toshiba has been powered off All night and it is early morning I'm going to power Everything on And again, this is a full cold Toshiba. We're going to see If any distortion happens along the edge from the cold Point of starting it Because I do still think we're going to need some time to warm up You see the screen comes into place like that Let's pull up our arrows. My goodness. Look at that dead cold CRT And We're not having any wiggling So we'll just keep monitoring this But it looks good All right, the set's been running for a while now and I still have a consistent Line here. I didn't have a single time where it glitched at all I didn't have any of the brightness issues It once it turned on and you saw it come alive That was the only brightness thing where it kind of blooms up and gets its size right Since then it's run perfectly All right, so we were able to solve that problem With the jittering screen And after I said to the brightness and contrast at the levels I showed you I didn't have a single issue However, this is one of the ugly parts of this television You have to almost have it a little bit bloomed out in picture And have the brightness over amplified Thus getting you pretty dull blacks. I mean you're really ending up with a more of a gray than a black The second ugly thing about this crt is all the lead free solder on the boards And in the flyback. That's the first time I've ever seen lead free phase three flyback Transformer and I don't really have a lot of confidence in it So those materials will break down quicker than the capacitors the capacitors on this board We're all rubicon and pretty good in quality Not many of them had failed So that's something you need to consider with this 24 af 45 Is the fact that you're going to deal with lead free solder more than likely on your circuit board So let's talk about some of the secrets now Of this toshiba and we should start with how to access some of the additional features that are available First off this is done by getting into the service menu and to do that you will need the remote control for this television set Now to access the menu all you need to do is hold down the volume button On the tv set itself And then you hold down the number nine on the remote And when you hold those down long enough eventually the service menu will just pop up And this service menu is pretty simple to navigate You just use an up and down Arrows on your remote control and the left and right arrows to make changes And then once you make a change you just move on to the next thing Or exit out of the menu and it saves the last setting that was input into it So if you're concerned about making changes, I will warn you you should go through and maybe Record what each of the levels are to begin with Some of the things in there you may not want to adjust So just be mindful of what you're adjusting in that service menu. There's also a second secret and cool thing of this crt and that is that it has an hours counter And the way to access this hours counter is again to hold down the volume button on the tv set And then take the remote control and also hold down the number six button and after a few seconds The counter will pop up on the screen that shows you how many hours are on your crt So how about one more secret this toshiba set has a velocity Modulation package included in the hardware toshiba has designed A special part on this set to hopefully give you edge sharpening this edge sharpening just makes the edges of the picture Appear sharper than they normally would so this velocity modulation Coil is connected to the neck board through a simple connection cable And it appears the only way on this set to disable this feature is to unplug it So let's do some testing now Take a look at the edges with the velocity modulation and then without the velocity modulation and decide which looks best All right, the velocity modulator is engaged right now and we're going to take a look at our Monoscope pattern a little bit closer If you look up in this area, we'll see a lot of hooking going on It's really pronounced in these corners and then this edge area You'll see some hooking And you'll also notice again the line is just not completely straight It looks very sharp, but at the same time it may be Showing more than we want it to in these corners. Check out just the line and how Kind of in dense everywhere It's really not straight enough See it's really squiggly The only way to disengage this is to disconnect this cable right here Just like that the mode is turned off and we'll check out the screen and see if it looks any better Well, this is what the screen looks like without that velocity modulator So let's go in closer to these corners and see if we still see the extra pronounced hooking I noticed that a lot of that has kind of been blended out in these corners There is still a little bit of misshapeness here, but it's not nearly as pronounced as it was with that mode engaged Still does look wonky. See I'm still getting that corner hitch right there However, it does soften up some of the parts, but it hasn't removed every little Hitch on the screen it looks smoother a little bit smoother, but we still have these hitches that Are going to be part of this flat screen tube When you have the velocity modulation engaged It does improve the sharpness of the edges, but it also results in poorer geometry And that softer edge actually looks better to me personally Now let's take a look at some 240p gameplay footage from the super nintendo And we're using component and we're using the hd retro vision high quality component cables here My SNES has been modified with the voltar rgb amplifier and it has been recapped I'm using a triad power supply. So all the parts here are in good shape Let's just see how this looks on screen Well, I can't really sugarcoat this this screen does not look amazing in component Mainly because of the blooming look you get From having to crank up that contrast and brightness on this tube and fly back The resulting image just looks a little bit more washed out It's extremely difficult to film this crt Especially since it's flat and it's got all the light issues with the over blooming picture So it looks even worse on camera than it would in person But for the most part, this is not a great crt to be using in a very dark room The image will look better in a brighter environment So if you have a lot of lights on or if you're in a room with a lot of sunlight That high brightness and contrast on the tube will actually make the image show through better So yeah, all in all, it's not a great picture on this tube compared to many other crt's that are out there, especially other consumer crt's All right after completing this amazing restoration and reviewing this tv set and finding out all the secrets I want to give it a letter grade now. This letter grade is just like in school It's going to go from a plus down to an f And for the tosheba 24 af 45 My final grade is a c minus This television seems to have as many negative qualities as positive qualities Let's talk about the positive qualities first. First off, you do have good inputs So you have composite component as video or f the service menu is a plus And the hours counter is always a plus on a crt However, there is a pretty big stack of negative features to this television First off from a hardware perspective, it doesn't have the most amazing tube. It's an orion tube combined with a Flyback that is a phase three Lead-free flyback transformer and that combination of parts probably would have never held up Longer than say a trinitron tube with a nice high quality Flyback from sony if you look at the circuit boards, really the problem there is the solder again this lead-free solder It's just troublesome. It breaks down quicker than solder with a little bit of lead in it And that is always going to be an issue for this hardware The other negative thing is you need a remote control to really do anything with this set So that's kind of a drawback and finally the image quality is just not like top notch You can get a better looking picture from a curved screen I just don't give it the greatest picture quality due to the blooming look And the fact that it's a flat screen crt with limited geometry controls You end up with some wonkiness along the edges and no matter what you do You're never really going to get that geometry looking perfect Or near perfect like you can with a broadcast or a professional level crt All right, so that's it. That's harsh enough on this toshiba 24 af 45. I'm glad to finally be done working on it. I do like the television set But personally I'm not going to add it to my list of things. I'm going to add to my personal collection Maybe a 14 inch or I could add to the collection But the 24 inch is just too big and there's too many downsides for it for me personally to like But what do you think about it? Do you have one of these sets? Have you been using it for a while? What's your opinions of it? Do you disagree with me and actually love this television? I'd really enjoy hearing your opinion in the comments below Lastly, I'd like to say thank you to all the patreon members out there who support this channel And all my work I do every month If you want more information on patreon, you can definitely check out the link I have pinned in the description as well as a comment down there in the comment section But that's going to do it. If you enjoyed it, please just do the small favor of clicking the like button And I will see you all next time for another massive wonderful crt restoration and review Okay, there are more bad issues with this television if you do not You know Snorlax why don't you go on out of here? I love you All right, come on get out of here. You're gonna snore go go