 Alright boys and girls, it's time for the hunk of shit 545 RFP to come out. She sure held her own. It's time to go guys. Shaft out. Obviously got pull and drive shaft out. That's out right now. And right now we got James up here. He's already got the... Get up here. Right now he's got the starter out. As you can see the starter's removed. He's got the old shift cable linkage removed. He's already starting to bust 10 bolts loose. And looks like he's working on torque converter bolts right now, right? And that is so we can obviously pull this transmission down. Pretty straightforward with removing the transmission. I know everybody wants to see how we're going to get the other transmission in because it obviously don't belong in here. That'll be the kicker that everybody wants to know. So we will definitely document that very well. But I'm going to quickly zoom you guys through the process of getting this old shit box out of here. Alright guys, as you know that you got converter bolts up here. And like James was just doing, you can take a long pry bar and stick a long pry bar up in here and grab these teeth and kind of roll it so you can get to each bolt. And that's an easy method to get to it. Just trying to give you that little tip there. Other than that we're about to go a little further. We still got the cooling lines right here that we have to disconnect. We already got all the electrical connectors disconnected over here. So yeah, we're almost to the point where we're going to be pulling bolts out of the bell housing up here. The transmission case. And she's about ready to come out already. Other thing I want to mention is these are the torque tubes that me and my buddy made the other day. These dump right off of the long tube headers right off the JBAs. And they sound pretty bad ass. Yeah. Alright, so now we're at the cross member. He's unbolting the cross member bolts right here. And we're going to drop this bar down. The transmission is being held up by the transmission jack. And then that way we can start doing the rest of the bolts around the bell housing and pull this piece of shit out. And these are the top bell housing bolts that we're getting out right now. Alright, so the transmission is completely free. And the next thing we're going to do before we drop it down is we have the transmission cooler lines. Which we will show you why we're going to do this. But we're going to cut these lines completely. Just cut them right here. And then the way the new transmission works, we will reattach these lines onto the old transmission. These will no longer be needed. As the new cooling lines have AN fitting is how I believe they work. But we'll show you in a minute so these tubes are going to be cut. So we're going to cut these down or cut them off right now. We're not even going to worry about trying to detach them up here. And he's got his little tool right there that cuts the tubes. She's bleeding out. Bag strip, people be thinking we were affording. He said it, I didn't say it. The old Ford guys. And the other lines cut. And stay tuned when we put in the new transmission you're going to see why those are cut. And how we're going to reattach them. So don't freak out yet. Only thing I think we have to do is pop that dipstick out probably still. Which is a pain in the ass if I remember last time. Because it, I don't know, that O-ring like glues itself in there. And as you can see, guess what's out of here. One 545 RFE shit box. One heavy monster for another heavy monster. Yeah, but hopefully the other heavy monster works. There she is guys. She sucks, but the old girl, she did us very good for a long time. But it's time to cut her loose. Time to say goodbye. Time to say goodbye. Alright, there is no more transmission in the truck. Now you can see my little torque tubes that I made off the long tubes here. A little easier. That's the driver side coming down. Welded this to a collector. And then bolted it on right here with a gasket. And then welded it to this elbow. And then these are just little turn downs right here. For both sides, did the same thing. This side's a little bit different. But you can see how they work pretty straight forward. And they just dump down. This is the new transmission, as you guys know. The 46RE manual valve body, trans brake, torque converter lock up. This is what's going in the truck in just a second. This will take a little bit of modification to get it everything hooked up. Like I said, the cooling lines are going to be different. And that's why we cut the tubes on the old transmission. Because these are the new cooling lines, you can see these are bigger. And then we're going to attach these to the old metal tubing. And then this is our shifter cable right here. This transmission has three wires to make it work. That's it. And one's going to be the torque converter lock up switch. One will be the trans brake switch. And the other one is going to be the parking neutral safety switch to allow the truck to start and park our neutral only. And that is it. Alright, so the other thing we're going to do real quick is the old starter. We're going to get rid of completely. As you know, in John's swap kit, you can't use the factory starter with the 46RE. It will not fit. So that starter is going to be removed completely. And there will be a new starter used for the 46RE. Alright guys, so here is the converters. This is the old converter that just came out of the 545. This is the MyEdge Racing 3400 stall converter right here. And this is the new converter that's made by Ultimate Transmissions that John had built specifically for this build. This converter is, as you can see, much different. And this converter is supposed to be around a 4500 stall. So much bigger converter than that one. But in size, smaller. Alright guys, this is the other thing I want to show you. This will be the new starter that goes on to work with the 46RE right here. So that is part of that swap kit. And then we've got the new transmission over here ready to start going up. And we will also be removing the factory flex plate starter gear right here, basically. As you've seen with the new converter, it's actually made on to the new converter on the 46RE transmission. So this will no longer be needed as well. So we will be unbolting this and getting rid of it. Do you say engine side if you ever get confused? New flex plate going on. Yup. Got to line up all the bolt holes, obviously. It's in the build room on the windowsill. What was the biggest tip you can do with Wack-Type? Make sure you put a whole bunch on it. No. You get enough. Failed. I was trying to get enough. One drop. One drop. He loves one drop back, guys. One drop is all you need. I like ducking them in a five-gallon bucket. Yeah, and they'll never stay tight. Now I have to agree with that theory. Even with super glue or like model glue, when you do a model, the less is more. The glue dries faster and it works better, that's for sure. They got the good old model glue. Smell smells good. Honestly, I have no idea because I haven't done a model car in years. Hell, it's hard to find any good ones anymore anyway. So one drop of blue lock tight on every one of those bolts for the flex plate before you torque them down. Yes, sir. Hopefully torque to about 30 radotads. Good and tight. Good and tight. So there you go. You can see we got the man out here with the master brain getting this thing ready to go up. That's trans. We'll take the cable off. Oops for this cable on my toolbox. So when we do the final installation to keep the dust from getting inside the cable. Remind me to put those on there. The cable boots. Cable boots. I'll maybe go all over my boots. One, two. And then you do this Dylan, come close. And listen, that is the pump gears engaged to the converter. That's how you know you got it in the whole way. There you go. Just write a secret tip from John putting in the converter. And you want to go in about that far. That far. You got to see you got to have his finger and go in that far. And then we're also going to show you guys the proper way to this one. You don't have to index because it's 90 degrees. Each one is exactly 90 degrees. We're going to make sure his doll pins are in the block, which already did. Then once it's bolted up, we have all the transmission bolts in. The converter has to spin with one finger like this. Then we're going to take the converter and bring it forward. So it hits the mounting pads, hit the flex plate. And you're clear. Just so happens to be exactly the thickness of the head of the bolt. So that's about what? 250,000. Clearance you want between the mounting pads of the torque converter and the flex plate. So if you can take your bolt and do this with it as a little gauge, once it's bolted up, you're good to go. And then once all the bell housing bolts are on, you're going to stick your fingers in here. And you're going to pull the converter forward. If you don't pull the converter forward and you just put the bolts in, when you go to tighten them, all you can do is bend the flex plate. So there you go. A secret tip right there. You got to know that. In all the way. And you definitely want to hear that clicking when you go back and forth with it. She's getting strapped up like she's going for a rocket ride. She's going to take you for a rocket ride. Once you let go of that train brake. All right, let's mount this baby up. Hell yeah, let's get it done. We've been waiting for this for a long time. A train brake. Maybe not even that. Can you see? Yeah, let Dylan put it up there. He's the one to spin on the money. You make comments like that will make people wait in the office. Right? All right, you want me to jack her off? You worry about me. Hey, he can edit it to what he needs to if he needs to. No, that's Dan. No need to edit that out. The first thing we're going to do is the converter. After all the bolts are in the bell housing. The bell housing because if you don't do the converter first and there's a problem with either bolting up or something and you put everything else in the driveshaft or cross member you're going to have to undo all that. So it's better to always do the converter first because it is the only thing that on an installation that you can adjust once the transmission is in the motor. I'm going to pull over my foot and I'm going to hit the button. No, don't hit the bottom one. This is the down. Her life, man. Yeah, I'll try to push it forward with my foot and step on it. She's going to see that transmission up in there now, right? I'll go under there. You have to put a GoPro underneath the car. I'll put a GoPro right here during the drag race. And then when the truck does a wheelie you can see the horizon. Make sure there's no pinched wires on the one side. Looks like we're done. Can I see that light? Who's got the light right there? The truck's got the light. Dude, she's right there. Put the bolts in. I know. Boom! We're putting a 1993 transmission. No, it's a 1998 transmission. I looked it up. And what year's your truck? 2011. 2011. So we're going from new school to old school into new school because old school just works better.