 Okay, on today's vlog I've got a ton of stuff to show you guys, I'm really excited, happy Friday to everyone. Today what we're gonna go over is a long layered haircut, you guys have been requesting this for quite a while, so we used the carving comb, we went in, we created a face frame, long layered haircut, we did the blow dry with a round brush, we iron it at the end, so a ton of things packed into this Friday, hope you guys liked this vlog, make sure you post in the comments below, let me know what you think. I guarantee you guys can use this technique in the salon today, tomorrow, and every day for the rest of your career, so let's get started with this step by step, thank you guys so much for watching, here we go. Alright guys, so like I said in the beginning of the video, we're gonna be using our Donald Scott carving comb today, I love this tool, it's a brand new tool that we have on freesaloneducation.com. We're replacing the blades first, so every haircut that I do with a carving comb, I always put fresh blades in because you're gonna get the best cut lines, and also you're not gonna damage the hair if you replace the blades, the blades are not expensive, and you think about how much you charge for a haircut, it's definitely good to at least change it every two hair cuts, but I try to do it every single haircut, you slide both blades in, there's a 50% cut side and 100% cut side, so we're gonna be using the 100% cut side throughout the majority of this haircut, then we're gonna go into the 50% cut side, which will cut 50% of the hair at the end of the cut as well. Like I said, we're using the fine tooth carving comb, there's also a wide tooth carving comb, so depending on what you're looking for tension wise, you can choose which carving comb best suits the cut. We're preparing the hair with prepare, so that goes well. This is a liquid tool glide, it's also made by Donald Scott, it matches up perfectly with the razor because it allows you to glide through the hair when you're combing, and also glide through the hair, it conditions the hair for razor cutting, so it's specifically made for cutting hair. So we're gonna start off by taking a diagonal forward section from the parting, so she's got a right hand side parting, that's all the sectioning there is in this cut, I clipped away the right side of her head and now I'm taking diagonal forward sections from the part down to the hairline, right around the fringe area. Now the over direction plays a key role in this cut, this is one of my favorite techniques to do when cutting layering and cutting longer hair, but you need to know how much elevation and how much angle you're putting on the hair when you over direct it, so the more I over direct it, the sharper or the more of an angle I'm gonna get on the haircut, the higher I bring the hair, the more elevation I give the hair, the lighter it's going to feel, so if you have really thick hair, you want to go higher like I am right now, you could even go higher than that if you wanted to. If you have fine hair, you want to stay lower with your elevation, because that's gonna help build up a little extra weight throughout the face frame, and it won't allow it to look weak, and I think that that's the biggest challenge with fine hair, is that when you over direct it and you elevate it too high, you're cutting out too much weight, so it just has a weak feel to it. This mannequin has really, really thick coarse hair, so we don't have to worry about that at all. So the over direction just keeps coming over. I keep taking diagonal forward partings, exactly the same throughout the haircut, just following the head shape, and then over directing it to myself. As I work back on the head, my elevation may change, it could change, so let's talk about the thicker that your guest hair is, the more you move back on the head throughout the partings, you may want to elevate more to just remove more and more bulk, because you can see how the head's rounding off right there, and if I don't elevate, if I keep the elevation the same, what's gonna happen is I will build up extra weight into the back of the head. So we're keeping that over direction coming, we're wrapping it around the face. I like to get a really severe over direction on this, because it's gonna give me a real nice angle, but it's also gonna remove a lot of bulk. And the key to this is just to keep working around the head shape until you run out of hair. So until there's no more hair to cut, and you're over directing it over, you just keep going, that's what's gonna help blend that entire cut together. So you're not gonna see us do too much in the back, we're actually cutting the back in the front of the head. So this is kind of an all in one haircut, it's a lot of condensed cutting, you could take bigger sections if you wanted to, to have to get a similar result with this cut. So now I'm gonna take out my guideline, I'm just taking a piece, a little triangle from the front, and clipping the rest of the hair away, and then I take a diagonal forward section on the right hand side, exactly the same as I did on the opposite side. Now I want to go through and I really want to find that guideline, because there's gonna be a little bit of an angle on this, so I want to find that last piece that I cut, which is the first piece of the fringe, to really use that as my guideline and not that whole chunk of hair. You see how the angle that I'm running the carving comb, I'm going at about 45 degree angle onto the hair, that's what's gonna give you the best cut with any razor that you're using out there, so make sure that you keep that angle in there nice. So this side of the cut is what I would consider the weak side of the cut, there's a less density, less hair, so my elevation is not gonna be wrapping all the way around the head and high elevation, we're gonna consider, we're gonna think of it like it's fine hair or fine or low density that we're working with, so a little bit lower elevation, quickly run through that side and we're good to go. So now I'm gonna work into the back and what I'm gonna do is take a vertical panel out of the back, center back, that's about three inches wide and I'm gonna work the 50% carved side of the carving comb right down from oxypro bone down to the ends. It's just a one fluid solid slide of the carving comb, which will help build in the layers and just skinny up the back of the haircut, because if you think about it, we've taken all of the weight pushed it into the back of the hair, you could leave it if you want to, but I just like to go in and skinny it up. So we take three inch panels throughout the back, just over directing it straight back to us, keeping pretty much a square feel to those layers, and then just use your eye, use your common sense as you're going in there, that you wanna just take out a little bit of weight into the back of the cut to allow those layers to kind of free up. Now we're going in with our blow dryer, we're using no nozzle on the blow dryer to begin the blow dry, because what I'm doing is just trying to remove a lot of the moisture. Now I'm gonna put the nozzle on my blow dryer, take my Ergo round brush, and just start working that round brush through. I don't like to work the round brush into the hair right away. I don't like to really work any brush into the hair right away, because I personally feel that too much brushing on wet hair, trying to rip out those tangles and all that stuff, is really what is affecting and damaging hair to begin with. So I like to go in, get the hair as dry as possible, then start working my round brush blow dry after that. So we're using a working spray in between each section. The elevation you can see on the round brush is over towards the face, elevated nice and high, so we're over directing it just like we did in the haircut. So I think that's a cool little tip is however you cut the hair, whatever angle you put on it, you're over directing it because you want it to go somewhere. So over direct it in the blow dry, so it goes there as well. Now we're gonna work the front, the opposite side, same thing, nice, high elevation. Same thing with blow drying guys, the more you elevate it, the lighter it's gonna fall. So in the more volume you're gonna get. So just go through there, get nice, high elevation, we're gonna work the top. This is that whole top panel, the Mohawk section. I'm just gonna work that round brushing it forward to create a lot of volume in the top of the hair. This is where our the layers that we've created with that carving comb in the beginning, this is where they're really gonna come to life in the cut is just giving it that volume and utilizing those shorter layers that we cut in there. You can see I pull the hair almost towards the screen which is over the parting just to give a little pop of volume over where the part's gonna be as well and then you'll notice that my elevation is a lot lower in the fringe area because I'm not trying to build up 80s bangs in there. So I that's the only part of this blow dry that I use low elevation is right in the fringe. All right now working with my hands just pushing the hair back off the face a little bit of working spray through it to activate it and that is our end result guys. I hope that you like this cut. I know that you can use this in Islam because I've been using it for 10 years and I love this technique and believe it or not you can actually use this technique as a straight haircut as well. So it really works. It's very versatile. You can use it in pretty much every aspect of your cutting from short hair to really really long hair. This technique works perfect. So there's the end result guys. Thanks for watching. All right guys. So I hope you enjoyed the video. If you have not yet picked up a carving comb from free salon education dot com. Make sure you do that. They're 3495 and you can use it every single day in the salon. If you like this video make sure you hit the like button. Hit the share button. Share it with all of your friends. Thank you guys so much for the support. I'll see you on the next video.