 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video today. We're gonna talk about panel lining But specifically we're gonna do a little science and figure out the best way to do really bright panel lining Let's get into it. Let's strict techno man sir. That is Vincy V. Let us get to the technique and learn it Vincy V style 10th edition 40k is upon us. And of course, I'm pretty excited About the new edition. It's brought back and rekindled a love of 40k I've had for more than 25 years now and as such I thought hey, maybe I'll paint up a new force and the thing that grabbed my attention was some towel I've always thought towel look cool I like giant robits and I wanted a simple scheme something I could execute on quickly What always appealed to me about towel was these fun deep panel lines that they have and It's easy and great to panel line and dark colors So if you have bright colored towel and you want to do dark panel lining We've talked about that on this channel many times both using things like actual panel liners products that are made specifically for that or oil washes traditional washes inks anything like that But I wanted something different. I Wanted some towel that looked more like Tron basically, you know these bright ultra punchy Neon lines tracing around The the miniature itself the problem is getting those really bright thin lines to fill the panels with a fluorescent pigment Or a fluorescent color is a lot harder It's easy to make recesses dark. It's often hard to make recesses bright There's not as much need and so there's not as many products Today, we're gonna talk about three different methods You can use at home to create this Tron like effect on your minis and get some really punchy Awesome-looking minis. So let's head over to the desk. Let's do some science All right, so we're just gonna start by laying down Abaddon black over the whole model This is over top of the primer and the reason I'm using Abaddon black Although I normally hate this paint and find it to be quite not a good paint because it's very satin All of its bad sides are gonna be positives here. I'm not gonna do anything with the rest of the color except edge highlighting I want the surface of the thing to be very dark to pop out against the Tron lines. So Satin Abaddon black do my highlighting for me move on All right method number one. We're gonna take alcohol and we're gonna put it into some ink Basically, we're gonna do two drops of alcohol to every one drop of ink or sorry three drops to one apologize and This is just basically a theory I had alcohol breaks up surface tension. It's often used in other paints to increase the flow Alcohol itself if directly exposed and let's sit on acrylic paint can be quite destructive to it But if mixed in like this it can actually just enhance and help the flow and my theory here was correct It's basically acting like a super flow improver It should go without saying that if you're gonna do this kind of work a good sharp brush for this kind of Tracing is of high value So this worked basically how I thought it would What I mean by that is I was able to very easily trace the lines quite accurately The paint just wicked right off the end of the brush no drama at all And you know any kind of sharp line I was able to fill The issue of course is that I still had to go through and trace every single line The other challenge here is alcohol evaporates very quickly it's a highly evaporative substance and So I found myself having to both rinse the brush regularly as well as go back Into get more you know sort of wet paint regularly. You can't sit there and just keep doing these lines You really have to be constantly you sort of refreshing your brush Now the bright side to this method Was if your hand is steady as you can see there mine wasn't because I hit the space that was that was outside of it But if your hand is steady, then that's a very easy method. There's very little cleanup. I Then did the same thing with the golden high flow fluorescent pink This is one of my favorite favorite fluorescent colors. I can't recommend the golden high flows enough for this purpose It's already a pretty well flowing paint but we of course added alcohol to this again in the same ratio and I found again this made it flow really smoothly Now there's no real capillary Actioning happen with action happening with this first one That is to say I can't just touch an area of the model and watch it fill the entire recess as you could normally do with something Like an oil paint or something similar So this is still requiring a lot of very careful work and tracing Now the bright side of the fluorescent side Especially being as thin as it is with the alcohol is it's relying on the color sort of gathering in the recess to really build up Whenever I did sort of miss swipe or or hit something outside of the space. You really couldn't tell All right, so now we're gonna try oils. We're gonna do a little comparison this is some standard Gamsol white spirits from gambling and Some light flesh tone, which is about the closest to white you're gonna get with a with a nice I Wanted a little bit of warmth in it. Basically. I didn't want to use just a normal dead white So we mix the living bejesus out of this like just mix mix mix mix mix mix mix mix mix Until it is so thin and as you can see I was using quite a lot of white spirits there, but still enough Now this worked exactly as I sort of suspected it would You want to get a lot on your brush You don't need to worry about having a very sharp brush here because you're effectively trying to have an overloaded brush a brush just full of liquid and then you're going to try to touch the brush against the miniature in an area where hopefully It doesn't really matter if anything spills over. So for example, I was leaning on like those rivets and things that I knew We're gonna be painted differently where I could and I just let the capillary action do its work. I will admit this is incredibly satisfying to do You just touch and then boom it fills that whole recess like a like a river just flowing forth of paint Feels like cheating Now the advantage to this method is pretty simple. You don't need a sharp hand You don't need a sharp brush. You don't need fine control You just move your way around touching the miniature in little dabs and dots and the capillary action basically does the rest for you The downside of course here is probably fairly obvious This is an oil paint and it's going to dry very slowly So I had to let that sit for an entire day before I then did this step This is gal kid an oil painting medium plus some fluorescent pink pigments plus a little bit of white spirits to keep everything flowing and Once again, I found that this little chemical mixture here actually worked really nice So gal kid is a medium for oil painting that effectively can be used to sort of thin and add a very like a shine and durability to it It's fairly glossy as a as a thing though white spirits help break it up Which is normally a thinner you use with oil paints anyways, so I'm just using the same effective thinner Once again, the application is the same You want an overloaded brush and you're gonna touch and the capillary action will do most of the work Now I had to make sure the first layer was completely dry before I did this so as I said this is maybe a Day day and a half later. Honestly, even with that small amount in the recesses because it was in the recesses I wanted to give it plenty of time now the challenge to this one is that when it dries it becomes very very very glossy and And that really becomes a challenge in the long run because other paint doesn't want to sit on top of this as Easily and yet again, you do need to give this a really long time to drive So the capillary action on this one is incredible But ultimately the finish is weird because you have to really give a long time for it to dry and then really matte varnish everything down like I had to put Basically three coats of ultra matte varnish over it to get it back into being completely neutral and matte I'll be honest all three of these things take time So when you're looking at this there's a series of different things you're trying to balance The first one is how fast can I create the lines around the miniature and then the second one is how much cleanup? Do I have afterward? It doesn't help if you can do everything really fast if then you have to spend a ton of time and clean up So as I was experimenting with these I was always trying to be mindful of balancing the total time involved in Creating the effect not just making the lines themselves bright All right method number three. I'm returning back to the ink plus Alcohol but this time I have a new idea. I've also added some flow improver and Quite a lot of it and what I found is by adding a lot of that flow improver and then having that overloaded brush I could get the capillary action Because I didn't need that high of a percentage of the white ink to have it still have a strong effect Because all that pigment is gathering together in the recess the ratio of white ink could actually be pretty low And still have a really strong effect And so in doing this I was able to actually Reintroduce that great capillary action not quite as good as with the oils those do admittedly flow better But the alcohol plus the the the white ink plus a you know a decent amount. Let's say another Two-to-one a flow improver. I found actually gave me really good results to lay down that base coat And and start that strong capillary action and get the mini done quickly Now this is a little messy because you're gonna get those dots everywhere and those will need to be taken care of Now here is my revelation just take regular alcohol plus pigment nothing less nothing more so this is pigment dumped into alcohol and Not a lot of pigment even so Because again, it's all collecting into a very small space. It's working over a near pure white. So it's going to have a strong effect Here I will I loved this method. This was ultimately a big winner for me Because I was able to you can see how strong the capillary action is here plus the Alcohol doesn't fully really set the pigment which would be a problem if it was on a flat surface But it's not it's on a recess where your hand doesn't actually touch if you wanted to you could varnish afterward either way but Because it's in that recess it just gathers in there deposits that pigment and then evaporates and what you're left with is a really pure bright version of the pigment Alone and it was so fast to go and fill this Now the only downside here was because the way I did the white you can see all the extra dots That are here outside where the sort of fat overly laden brush had to touch against the miniature So, you know, we'll have to go back and clean those up later But I found this method to be really easy and rewarding. So this was just a 99% isopropyl alcohol plus the raw pigment about one 128 of a teaspoon to probably Four drops of alcohol it does evaporate quickly But that was a super easy time to work my way around the mini tint everything and it finished so bright and so intense Once I was done with everything. I just went back in with Abaddon black and you can see there's areas where you know sort of There's paint where it shouldn't be where either I touched the miniature wrongly or those little initial white dots got there Little cleanup and then we're good to go All right, there we go, there's all three of the different methods now, let's take a look at the outcome So here's the three of them next to each other. I'll be honest I really like the last method the best so this was simple alcohol and pigment it Flows really well and really fast into the recesses It's extremely bright and punchy the way the alcohol because it has almost no surface tension it deposits the pigment really evenly in the recess and Ultimately, it locks it in there now if alcohol and pigment is all you have on a normal flat surface You can actually wipe it away quite easily. It doesn't set as fully However, since these are only in the recesses and we don't really touch the recesses of the miniature it actually works really well and Moreover on those larger flat surfaces It becomes quite easy and fast to clean up additional layers of paint going over the top or simple Sometimes you can even just wipe it away with a wet brush So for me the first method is the sort of easy you don't have anything else But you it takes a longer amount of time, but it's very clean The second method although in meat chemistry experiment in the oils and how we could make that work in The end just didn't really work for me. The color is flatter. It's really glossy Base and it was just ultimately You didn't really gain the speed and I had to sit there and wait a long time for everything to dry and set The third method of just the alcohol and pigment or they are really taking down the alcohol and ink with some flow Improver in the in the white those two combined made this process fast easy and a breeze So that's ultimately what I would recommend if you want to try to replicate this on your own minis Hey, I hope you liked this if you did give it a like Subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future. We have new videos here every Saturday There's gonna be plenty more For hammer 40k and AOS and display miniature and everything you can imagine content coming up as always every Saturday If you've got a question drop that down below I always answer every question asked on the channel if you want to support the channel. Hey, I'd really appreciate it There's a patreon link down there focused on review and feedback and taking your next step on your hobby journey We'd love to have you as part of the community as always I thank you so much for watching this one and we'll see you next time