 Welcome in everybody this morning actually now. So let me get the audio levels balanced a little bit here and we'll go ahead and get things ready on today's stream. Thank you for stopping by. Thank you, Brian Harmon. Thank you, PO 17 and Ray Saroni. Great to see you here, Ashley Nixon. Thank you. Appreciate the love and I'm glad everybody could join me this morning. I'm again I keep saying this morning it's already afternoon here and I was sitting here, I was in my garage working on a new CRT and I thought I'd just share all this work with you guys as I was going on it and today's CRT is kind of special because it's for a try from my life in gaming and I've already started shooting like a full official episode for it but today we're going to go through and we're going to actually work on the chassis. That's what I have here and this chassis is from a Toshiba television and it's the 24 inch AF 45 and that's the flat screen version of the Toshiba. I already posted some pictures of that to Twitter so if you want to get a sneak peek of what those look like go check out my Twitter timeline for a sneak peek of that. Hey Daniel Perez, glad to see you here. Hello, XXX, XXX and Gemlod Azucar. Thank you everybody for getting showing up. We're going to work on this chassis and what I'm really trying to do today is develop this custom cap kit for this thing and I wanted to show you how this process works. I've got a bunch of cap kits that I've been going through and trying to do a better job of cataloging. If you go over to my Patreon page I have cap kits embedded within our specific private Discord server and I've been periodically going through and adding new cap kits. I think we're over 50 sets that at least have caps in there, cap kits in there so today this is a new CRT for me. I'm going to show you me just working through this recording the cap kit on here and we'll pull the caps, take a look at some tests, some we'll use some tools, have a good old time and we're going to hang out to some jazz music and some funk this afternoon and I'm of course here in the lovely CRT bunker and so let's go ahead now and take a look at this lovely chassis from an overhead view. Now this is an NTSC television and the good thing about this set is everything's in one nice compact set here like it's all one board for the most part of course there's the neck board which is right here which is one of the boards we'll be looking at and then there's the main power or main board here. Now if you have seen me service other CRTs like higher end professional CRTs you'll notice everything's segmented in individual boards but this one is more compacted into a single main board and then of course there is the neck board because you need a way to communicate with your tube and give it commands and that's done through the neck board and so everything else is isolated to this single board if we look at this area in the lower right hand corner this is going to be obviously the flyback transformer but this is going to be our areas of deflection around this area pretty much from this point down over till maybe we get to like this heat sink which I'll move the anode cap cable so you can see that where my finger's poking right here. There's a white line that intersects right in this point along the board I'll zoom in so you can see that a little bit better but that will cut off the areas that we're concerned with pretty much so if I show you let me get down here a little closer to the board and show you a better angle while I'm just looking at this. This chassis has the inputs which is this is like the rear of the set when you're looking at the television so this is like our input area right these are inputs that we have on our input board and then this is our tuner and if we look at this section okay this section is not in our capacitor kit and I'm going to tell you why if we go to the left of this heat sink unless we have a specific issue these capacitors should still be okay they're not in a high heat area and therefore like the AV switching so they're not getting high voltage ever really and there's not a lot of heat generated and now there is some heat around this chip but this this is a completely other block too that is our sound block and it does not age like the deflection block so I'm just trying to show you some other things up here up in this section is the front input on the set and then we have a bunch of smaller capacitors again where we can see it's been labeled on the circuit board this is our stereo audio section if we look over here this is our communication our mycom area our tone audio area over in here and all these things this is our comb filter down in here so these these caps unless you have an issue these these are not going to be part of like the cap kit unless you're just going in and recapping the entire set we're not going to concern ourselves with those secondary caps because those caps while they are about 16 to 17 years old they're not again in a high heat area and since they're not in a high heat area and there's not a lot of demand and a lot a lot of voltage on them they can literally last up to 10 times longer than these other capacitors and Toshiba on this chassis we'll see if they if it's made by if it's marketed by a different company which is possible and developed by them but I've not noticed that yet if we look at this chassis we can see that they've actually used some good capacitors on it they're like some of them are Rubicon most of them are Rubicon actually maybe all of them and that is a good thing so these in these lower demand areas unless you have a specific problem with one of these features on your set you know that's just not a part that we're really worried about the parts that we are worried about we can follow along up here if we see where up in the right hand corner where we have the missing section okay that's where we're going to start where it says 3 amps 125 volts at the pen tip here so everything like following this line where this connection is there's no capacitors over here but we'll go and kind of go down here where this transformer is and the line continues down this way and follows down all the way to this point and then off the board kind of around this area so we want to try to concentrate on these caps on that side of the board because this top section with the transformer up here and these filter caps and this other transformer and the fuse this is all our power block so normally this would be in its own board on a higher end crt sometimes even on a low end crt these power blocks will be isolated on their own board but in this setup we have them all together so we're going to do a cap kit on this power area and then the other cap kit will be the deflection area and if we look down here it will be marked with for example here's horizontal out see that's a deflection point vertical out which is it's harder to see it's under there see where my pen is this is v out that's something we're definitely going to be concerned with and really any of these capacitors that are in this area now if they're if they're labeled with a five like this one says c5 24 more than likely that's a deflection well actually that might not be that might be just power capacitor and then on this board maybe the fours anything with the four will be our deflection capacitor okay so like it'll be c like this one down here what i'm touching is c408 so c408 is a deflection capacitor and like this is the deflection capacitor uh probably yep c422 and then if we move over to the power area like this one is in the power area it's five two four so those will begin with a five so um i say we can start from the top and work our way back here and the way i'm just going to do this is i'm going to pull these caps i've got my hako fr 301 here that i've shown in the last couple of videos i'm going to i'm going to turn it on let it heat up make sure my temperature is not too high on there and as that heats up give it a little test is that heats up and gets ready we will get things ready uh to record the cap kit now i was going to try to have another camera angle or showing you the desktop and actually just type this in but uh windows 11 has been giving me so many fits lately that i decided i'm going to do it the old fashioned way write it down by hand and then i'll go back later on my windows 10 machine and actually uh do the cap kit documentation over on that so i can i can make a drive document for that all right let's get back to the chassis here and we'll start up here if we look at this set and if you're just starting with the top we've got our fuse right here so maybe we can zoom in a little bit more if that's possible get a little closer for you and go ahead and look in here and see so we're definitely going to be there's no really capacitors there's no capacitors up in this zone and then if i look over here the first capacitor is c507 which is this big filter capacitor so if i get my pin out i'll write down the value of c507 and this is a 820 micro farad 200 volt look at this one that's kind of a big capacitor right here this is again 820 micro farad and 200 volts now normally when i look at these larger capacitors i don't automatically change them because these can last a really long time and um and so normally i don't change these unless the set's really old and there's definitely a problem now guys just give me one second i gotta send a quick message and then we're gonna get this uh recorded and going all right thank you for that quick second here we're gonna get started just gotta make sure that somebody shows up to the house they know i am here and what's going on so we're looking at c507 a big old capacitor and um sorry yeah if you guys want to ask a question that's fine uh it's no problem people can help you out in the chat for now i'm gonna keep working if you want to hang out to the end i'll have a time to dedicate to discussing things so let's try to read this capacitor with our gme capacitor reader and we're going to take a reading on this capacitor and see see what we get here because if it's reading really really low on the ohms then we may just not really worry about it see this is the normal normally what happens with these large capacitors it is 0.1 ohms and that's after it had been running for a while like i let this thing run for about an hour before i took it apart and brought it down here to service so i was just putting the positive lead on there and then the negative lead on the other side of the capacitor and then the reading for this capacitor is all the way down here in 0.1 esr if it was anything over that i'd be uh maybe a little concerned concerned enough to swap it out but since it's such an odd capacitor it's a large filter capacitor the odds are that that one's perfectly fine and if i changed it i wouldn't be changing it to anything that would be much of an improvement more than likely on that particular capacitor so let's move on now we've checked that one um let's go down here we've got this little one and i can't tell see there's sometimes you run into a cap like this where it's marked with a c524 and a c509 now there is a little look down here fives there's two capacitors here you have to make sure you're writing the right one because there's a two numbers above one above this and one below it for this particular board it's the number above it because the other one is for this cylinder capacitor disc capacitor here that's the other c so this one is c509 and i am having a hard time of seeing what this capacitor is and when that happens that's generally when i go in and i just go ahead and remove the capacitor one thing i did notice about this toshiba board is things are not marked like clearly like there's lots on this this backside there's a lot of things that are not marked it's not like you can tell exactly what you're be soldering easy and that's not a good thing so this is right below see there's like a cluster of components down here but there's no markings as to what they are so it's i gotta make sure i grab the right one it's over there's a break and then this is it so that looks like a capacitor we'll remove that because that one's definitely coming no matter what whether it's reading good or bad and another issue on this board may just be the solder it looks pretty bad too it's not like the best capacitor looks good and loose right there i don't know if you could see me you can kind of see it wiggling in the middle of the screen let's get pulled and see what it is okay i guess i'll shoot also see how they're marked there's a positive and negative on the board i wasn't able to see that so this is a 25 volt 47 micro farad capacitor so that will be absolutely in the kit if you can turn the lights too bright but 25 volt 47 micro farads okay one down hello von creeper thanks for joining us from argentina hello jordan c hello abes games and skate it's good to see everybody in there today and coming in late we're just working on a chassis for a circuit board that's the main circuit board inside the pasheba flat screen crt television and this is servicing it we're going through removing caps and servicing it by making a custom cap kit for it the first part is to develop that cap kit this is another large one in our power area that's this one it is a let me see what the value or value is on here 160 volts just 220 220 micro farads so that's going to be like i'm guessing this one right here yep that's this big capacitor right here so so since it's right there let's give the old meter a check again this is one of the other big filter capacitors i may consider changing this if it reads anything over point one sorry my hand was in the way just watch it you see that red light up down there it's it's point one so it's it's a good one so i'm not i'm not going to change that one it's 105 degree and it's a rubicon it's reading really good pointless to change it so we're going to leave these two for sure i'll put x's on them just because they were checked out but i will record their value in case anybody else wants to come through and if theirs is bad or they want to go ahead and change it then i'll put these in there but i'm going to put a asterix next to them so that's a 160 220 220 micro farads 160 volts all right i'm glad everybody likes to see more consumer sets hey yura thanks for jumping in oh yeah the toshibas are fun they're good sets i've had one for a very long time i still have one of the curved bubble screens i think it's 32 inches it's in my main living room funny enough all right so there we have those three the next everything else in here we're gonna change out the only other cap that's in this area that i probably won't change out is another big cap down here more than likely we're gonna take a look at this test it and it will show fine um because it is really weird it is 50 volt 6.8 micro farads that if that rail reads a zero then that's a super odd capacitor uh let's see where is that one right next to that heat sink and yep it's yeah that's the right side it's reading it's definitely reading point one so we're not going to worry about changing it either it's not going to be in the set it's odd it's huge for 6.8 micro farads meaning it it could last another 20 years so that one's not going to be in the kit that's actually part of the this is we're working on first is the power board section but we've tested that one so we don't have to worry about it okay now we are going to remove these down here which are different values we're going to get these two changed this is a 500 we'll change uh well so we're going to change these three and this one so let's start with this one this is in c the one right here is c550 and it is a 16 volt 1000 micro farad capacitor so that one will come out right next to that is which one is that I think it's c501 but I want to make sure I get the right one I think it's c501 right here and that is a 35 volt 1000 and then right next to that is a 16 volt I can't tell the exact number I believe it's 527 but 521 was the one we just checked so it's there's also a 504 above it though this is where you get confused a little bit it's probably 504 or it's 542 look at this this one if I look at this capacitor right here there's a c right here c right here and c right here under it and on the left side it's that's insane and then there's nothing on the bottom man I don't even know what to call that so that I won't forget I hate that so I just said this was 501 by 50 all right I guess we're gonna just call it 504 shiba wasn't doing us any favors when they were marking this board I might come after I uh remove these and make little arrows probably pointing to which capacitor I've referred these to you know it's very difficult to see let me see if I can show you maybe if I get close down here and turn the light out you can tell what I'm looking at but I'm looking at these caps down here and just all around them are different c527 c504 c542 c516 thank you and then we have this little one which again I don't know what it is it looks like the the one it could be is c542 but man that's kind of far away it looks like that's unpopulated all right so let's say this is c504 and the last one was c527 instead of 504 so we'll pull these out and then the last one I can't really tell what that is it's kind of small so we'll have to pull that one let's just go ahead and pull it first if we can find it there it is it's right under so this one right here should be yeah it's moving solder is just I mean really hideous it's got like some pretty nasty oxidation going on on top of it so that was very clean so this could be a situation where we end up finding that the caps might not be the issue that it might just be the solder itself at the end of the day hey Tony Escobar the surgeon thank you for the super chat I appreciate it thank you for being here all right yeah so we're looking at the toshiba yes this is so and this is a 50 volt 2.2 and we're going to remove these three around it that are larger now should be a little little bit easier to get out of here than the other ones that's just some nasty solder nasty solder this is the kind of solder you wouldn't even really want to reflow and arcade guys know about that sometimes you just have to remove all the solder it's just ridiculous 35 volt so this should be 501 so i'm gonna draw a line from 501 to there and that's 504 I think I can remember that yeah okay I just marked the one I should be okay 550 get rid of this one up here it's a little bit smaller 16 volt 1000 so you don't it's weird it doesn't if it was good solder it would just molten still and look good but I don't know the the I think there was a note on the circuit board it'll look for it I may have been mistaken but I might have said lead free so if that's the case that would make some sense where it had like lead free solder and the solder just doesn't look as good after 20 years c550 16 volt 1000 good stuff excellent so we've got we're making some progress we're gonna go now to the c527 which is this one right here and we're slowly making it through this power block master safer hey yeah absolutely I have that happen I have had white residue appear all over the boards after brushing with IPA it's just the evaporating IPA mixing with some dust that's just still left on the board so you can keep cleaning it that's why if you notice when I did the restorations I come back with a brush that's non-conductive and brush the boards off because it brushes after it dries you can generally brush a lot of that off and not have to keep cleaning it but that's something that you can either keep cleaning the board with alcohol or try the brush method and then make sure you're using at least over 90 alcohol all right 16 volt 220 at c527 right over here and that might be another one I'll just add a line too so that I know when I'm installing because I probably am gonna have to actually I do know I'm gonna have to order these capacitors a lot of these are not going to be standard I bet I don't know that I have I may have as actually I think I have a 25 volt 220 2200 I keep in stock I'll probably upgrade these parts and then just use what I have if I do have it available the next one is c539 which is a smaller one right next to a large diode so let's record c539 and we're just gonna remove this and see what it actually is next to the large diode leg which should be this maybe yep good we got it all right we're getting that so guys if you're gonna be I haven't decided yet I've been talking with good buddy 8 bit Esquire today about possibly doing a stream later tonight so if you have nothing to do later on this evening whoops come back to the channel or put your alerts on the channel and see if you come back for that stream it'll be more relaxed we're gonna well we're gonna try to troubleshoot a 50 or a 14 inch pvm m series that he has sent me so if you got anything going on later cancel it and come hang out with Retro Tech and the 8 bit Esquire all right this is a 50 hole 4.7 microfair capacitor out of there on to the next one and if I look here look at this this is great we are moving on I think I think that's all for our power capacitors this thing in total has eight power capacitors really ah I found one more actually sorry about that we're gonna change it well okay I don't know boy we're definitely changing this one I don't I mean it's part of the mycon but it is next to the power block and I don't like the way it looks it's c 110 so I'm gonna kind of put it over on its own that's why it's always good to get in here and inspect your board it's like it's a low voltage 6.3 volt but it has a high capacitance and I don't oops I don't like those kind of caps to stay good it might be a little bit con vets also it's hard to tell but I'm feeling maybe there's a little bit of wear and tear on this one and that's outs yeah 6.3 volt 200 or 2200 micro farads let's put that down here let's just see this what this looks like oh look at me a big worrisome warp there's all the way down there in the good section so since I'm ordering this cap can I'm gonna go ahead and change it but um probably leave it off the cap kit officially so I'll put a mark next to it where it also since it's just a 100 and I thought it looked bad even though it tested good and we can move over here let's see it's a four four all the rest of them that we're looking at are fours I believe or they should be yes and this isn't a huge cap kit at all thankfully we're gonna get pretty fortunate here so now we're gonna move over into the section down here where my hand is and pull these c400s so flip this from ESU cap kit and so far we're at about nine capacitors on this whole cap kit but there's gonna be at least that many in the geometry section and the geometries are all c4s so if we look at c4 we'll see all that all right doing good doing good just doing a systems check real quick there make it sure everything's still working so I'm pretty impressed from looking at some things on this board again the fact that they would use um rubicon caps for the 95 percent of this is a good thing the fact that a lot of these caps are 105 volts is a good thing but as I told you a little bit ago this is the thing I don't like and that's the reason I think this solder just looks bad check it out this is what I what I noticed check that out right there I've never seen that on a chassis before it says PB free my assumption would be that this was a chassis that uh Toshiba would have marketed as main as being led free that's why PB free is there and I believe that maybe the reason that the solder on here is just so dull so dull now the first area is is that we've just gone through that we've removed the caps from is our power area so if you have a power issue with your set or um a throbbing or anything that may be related to power you should try and check those capacitors the diodes there are a few diodes in here you can check these diodes if you have a problem and then check your solder and hopefully that will solve your power issue and you can always check your fuse down here you always should check your fuse okay so that's kind of like a power if you had a power issue but if you have an issue with your screen uh on like the overall performance of the screen geometry wise or anything like that that's going to be in this 400 block we're working on now for geometry so if you have any any issues with picture quality I would recommend trying this cap kit that we're going to start to work on right now um because it may solve your issues it's not guaranteed to but it's going to give you a good good chance first up we have c403 under a transformer and so I've got to flip it and find it and that's I believe this little point right here and for this board even though we're using this let we're working with this lead free solder for the moment um I'm using the 301 on its lowest temperature setting but it's not doing a great job like this whole trace right here is not looking good yeah it's not great it's not coming out great let's see what this cap is I'd never recommend I mean unless you have a certain situation where you're not allowed to have lead you should be using some lead in your solder the solder I use will have lead in it a little bit this is a 50 volt 22 microfarad so that's c403 our first capacitor for the for the geometry just inspecting at down there yeah it's just crusty it doesn't want to come off right in there it is there's there's a big old chunk of that unleaded mass right there okay well I'm gonna have to take a second and check out what's this is actually doing to my FR301 because it sounds like it's clogging it clogging it up more than it should be in an attempt to pretend to make a CRT health conscious right by using lead free solder yes I think we broke through I think so let's make sure hey Seb welcome in from Australia that's very cool people all over the world coming in to coming in to see the CRT game thank you for being here should be all I need to do is just get that chamber cleared out a little bit obviously the tip is super hot oh lay still got something down in there I can't get that there see that there we go that should be good all right hopefully that will help get the rest of the passers out and I do apologize sounds like one of my neighbors is chopping down a tree I can hear it so probably you'll be able to hear it I do have a muffler on my or a sound dampener on my microphone but that doesn't always guarantee everything next we're going to move on to C406 gosh I can't tell 406 I'm going to say it's on the other side of this transformer down here 406 there we go oh this is just this is not this solder is such trash like I can't I can't I can't deal with it I can't deal with it I'm gonna have to reflow I'm gonna have to reflow the solder on this board like just to get these caps out this is the frustrating thing guys like one of the parts like you would think it would be easier to work on these brick and consumer sets because they're simpler but the problem is when you have cute things like oh we're gonna put no lead in our solder and then you realize that you're just oh like for me this is difficult imagine if somebody didn't have a lot of experience with this stuff it's not it's not fun but that cleaned it up I mean it's clean now and so now we have C well this wasn't the one I was thinking I was taking out this is actually the one next to it or I'm gonna call this one C407 I'll have to put another marker next to that and this one is a 35 volt 100 so there's one more down let's get four zero the one right next to it 406 which is right up in this area sorry guys this is such bad solder I can't even can't even do anything but just I have to concentrate fully on this I think it's 406 or 408 I can't tell fully 406 pull it and see what it is hey Vinicius from Brazil good to see you um this is a 50 volt one micro farad welcome back PO 17 we've got some of the caps out here we're working our way through I think the next one is going to be labeled 408 yeah 408 it's a bigger one this one over here down in this area we're going to remove it there we go and we'll see what we've got here this one is a 25 volt 1000 it's a pretty common capacitor in a chassis like this to have a couple one or two of these 25 volt 1000s and once I get some of these the rest of these pulled we're going to test some of them hopefully some of them read bad I do see possibility of some residue left over but you can never really tell whether that's from the capacitor or just the board itself possibly leaving behind a little flux residue from its original fabrication now we'll move on to this cap which is over next to the heat sink where my index finger is touching at the moment at C409 and I'm not quite sure this might be one of the ones where I go in and I reflow the solder on it ahead of time because it looks pretty dodgy it's a smaller one and I might have to just go in and to clean a lot of these things reflow the solder and remove it again I see it's that's not it where are you right there there you are oof that stuff smells terrible when you like mix it it's like a science experiment gone bad mixing that solder together yuck hey just be able to get that one out now 409 409 right yep 409 50 volt 10 so we've gotten all these out now we tested that big one and the only thing's left is like there's two medium-sized caps right here two big caps here we're definitely changing these two they look old and that's about it four more caps on here and then we'll move on to the last board we'll do which is the neck board we'll always do the neck board also 430 sorry about that C410 hey self-elected thank you fresh flux I don't know I mean fresh fluxing I don't know what you would mean by doing that you might you might add I mean you could add flux to it and then just reflow the regular solder I guess but the problem here is just the chemistry on this old lead which I again completely think it is is just gross this old lead free solder but adding the fresh solder that always makes it easier when you're removing capacitors that's definitely true so there that one came out that is a what is this one 100 volt 22 that's an interesting one 100 volt 22 make sure it's not 2.2 22 for sure and that's C430 yes now onto 410 just under this inductor in between those two inductors actually it's definitely a horizontal capacitor right in there and that has extra solder on it so let's see if we can get it out with just the original but oh so gross I mean I don't know I know that like some unless again unless it's some really specific need you really should have some kind of lead content in your solder even like I know that like in for example in the United States there's even requirements for people to use leaded solder on certain most electronics when they're being serviced and things 250 volt 2.2 micro farad it's not like paint where you could you know switch over to latex paint and there's no argument against it like nobody needs leaded paint in anything anymore I mean I don't believe so there may be some kind of situation where on some kind of submarine or something where you need leaded paint but most the time not any longer all right we've got C413 up here it looks like that's what we're going to take now yes this video this one does have s video it has s video it has the color stream so that's Toshiba's early version of component video all right 35 volt 1000 there mark that down put it aside which one was that one that one was C413 and we can now take C this is the C426 and yeah if you guys like Toshiba's I actually have another Patreon member I talked to today he's bringing in two 14 inch Toshiba's that are having issues like this um so they are going to get the same kind of treatment we'll get the cap kit made for those and I'll probably do it live if I can you know it'll be it's not this upcoming weekend it'll be next weekend and so early half of May look for some more Toshiba stuff I mean I'll have a whole bunch of Toshiba stuff actually it'll be Toshiba the summer of Toshiba I thought it would be the fall of Toshiba last year and I'd ever got around to it and I mean fall is in the season not like fall of the company or something 22 uf 22 micro farad 250 volt on this capacitor here and I'm just inspecting what I've got left and you like I said you could justify changing everything if this was like your main set you just wanted to recap everything you could do that but let's be honest it's not like you're going to see an improvement off of new caps in this area if there's nothing wrong with them so as I said before we're concentrating on power and deflection and I don't see any more there so that's it for deflection we're just at two three four five six seven eight it's only nine deflection caps only nine wow okay so that moves us and this is going to be something that's unusual because most of the time the neck boards only have like on a pvm average neck board would have less than five capacitors but on the neck board for this Toshiba we've got three six seven that's kind of a lot for a neck board especially when the other cap kit cap kits are only like six and eight look at this yep there's another one of those that moniker right there lead free so that was the goal let's get so now we've got our geometry geometry kit kit spelled out our power supply kit and now we'll move on to this but if you guys like samsung stuff just no or i'm sorry it's not samsung someone just said p017 said samsung uh he was asking about samsung stuff and i had samsung on my tongue so i'll let that slip eight goodness here's some more multi eight six three right here let's see eight six four right above it and eight six eight five two so let's move on this one is a we can actually see these 160 volt 10 for the eight 64 160 volt 10 for the 863 it's a 16 volt 47 i'll probably go up on that that's that's a pretty low cap 16 volt 47 also for five or eight 52 so it's those three and we have a three over here which are oh man let's just remove these we'll move on to those then we'll move on oh this solder just looks terrible when i get the cap kit in i'm gonna have to reflow solder on a lot of this so you're blessed with heaven not a lot of caps to replace but a lot of solder soldered to replace which kind of lame right i'm still 16 volt 47 gone these should this one shouldn't be so bad it's got more solder on it than the last now i say that off of this is the one i thought looked good it's not wanting to melt or anything it's like they suck in some it's snuck in some super solder here somehow oh man that's not that's not doing anything that's not doing anything that's not cool yuck yuck yuck so this is definitely eight 64 that was eight 63 16 volt 40 because now i can actually see on this board has markings for each capacitor on the back end unlike unlike the primary board for some reason they didn't want to mark it with the right things 160 volt 10 and then this should be another 16 47 right in here eight five two i'm just gonna lift those legs off the board and it's just against that so i hate it oh it's gross lead free super solder that's what it is uh yeah past was asking about height and spacing you can check that out you know with calipers and i've done that sometimes just most of the time nowadays these caps have changed sizes so unless it's really unless it's really a tight fit where i know it's going to be like a vertical problem or a like i don't want to really wide i do have to consider that sometimes but when there's a lot of space for example on these generic look how much room there isn't here you could really fit any size capacitor just about in there so the capacitor size isn't um isn't something i normally am going to be concerned with on it on a project like this because oftentimes you won't be able to match the size anyway these caps are older and one of the things that happens is caps progress in technology most of the time as they get smaller notice that a lot of caps uh 863 is our next no that's the last someone was a 853 i was about to say can't you can't fool me with saying they're both 863s i've done if you do p like bvm cards where you're concerned with cap spacing cap size that that's when you can get into that kind of stuff also it's something that when we have in part problems like supply chain issues it's that's more of a luxury sometimes you just have to take whatever you can get for a cap replace a replacement cap just rubbish like i'd do better just pulling this with my uh soldering iron but these caps are starting to stink so that's a good sign starting to smell that familiar fish feeling smell fishy smell 16 volt 47 854 as a what is that one 160 volt 10 side it's always one of these two sides just doesn't want to melt oh my god wretched what a wretched idea lead free solder there's good ideas and then there's lead free solder now if you're worried you know sometimes you could want to add so like if it depends on the capacitor you know if it's if it's something in a high heat area you could try to get a larger cap too right if you wanted like in a size comparison because a larger cap is going to have a larger area to dissipate the heat but at the same time you don't want to make it too big where it's jamming other parts around and not fitting well and we're only we're down to our last two capacitors in this kit thank goodness thank goodness and then we can just relax and test these things i don't know why i'm doing this to myself i should have just refilled the side i'm some kind of design issue here with these because these caps are way too tiny for a a pad of this nature and size all that size area imprint for this tiny 16 volt 47 you know c 8 6 6 16 volt 47 just feels so stiff i don't think i'm gonna hurt myself this time i'm gonna wait and do it i know you know you always wait till the very last capacitor to do it the right way because this is going to be the big shot right this is the one that would be the important one for the video the bare last one okay doki yeah if you guys are building any cap kits this is a 250 volt 4.7 sorry i was looking at the comments c 809 250 volt 4.7 yeah if you guys are building a cap kit i always recommend that you don't just go by whatever the cap list says because there are variants to to pcb's and you might have a cap that's not in there that's you need to add or it might have one too many caps that happens all the time and i can't account for everything on there but that guide or these lists are a good guide to go by you may end up you know 95 of the time with the same exact board build out and then you can just use it but otherwise you should still kind of do what we did here take your cap kit pull each cap make sure it matches what's on the list if it's different than on the list there could be a reason some of these things have been altered especially in sony pbms but if it's in a standard standard set like this it's not altered usually so these are just some tips you know just make it a lot of times you don't have to there will be on the 2050 you may have to worry about size for some of them you can't usually get some big caps will need to will be too fat yeah this solder is just here he is on here wow okay that's all our cap kits done let's just take a a step back and see what we've got so far got that uh this is our neck board let me write that down here neck board so we have one two three four seven seven caps on the neck board nine in geometry 16 total and then another eight nine here it's 25 total caps in this and probably only like 23 in the actual kit but you have to be concerned with if there's nothing wrong with your set to begin with so what does that really mean well it means the issues from this set we're either from bad capacitors or more than likely bad solder so we can turn off our solder tools and our desoldering equipment and we can check the capacitors to see what our readings are on those and make sure that that they pass and that they're or i'm sorry if they're bad we'll know we'll know that they're bad and that'll be a good thing let me move our circuit board out of the way we'll just leave the testing tools and we'll check out some readings that we can get on our capacitors here and we are coming on just over an hour now in stream so again if you're going to be here later on tonight later on looking for something to watch we could possibly be looking at another stream tonight with my friend roger that will be later on after bedtime so put the kids to bed come hang out if we end up doing it i'm not promising yet i am not promising anything because kids still got to come home from school they could have been bad today for all i know all right this is a 6.3 volt 2200 micro farad capacitor let me pull the test tester over maybe if i just pull the tester i put it under there like that that'll look that looks like a pretty good view and then we will test it good it's good i'm just going to go with the bigger ones first this is a 35 volt 1000 micro farad good 16 volt 2200 nice and low and that's the reason a lot of these bigger caps they stay around in these caps these kits longer they they don't they don't wear out 1000 uf was the last one we just tested you'll notice all these are coming back really low 0.1 ohms 1000 again these are all 1000s and they're all coming back 0.1 on the reading this is a 22 micro farads it might be higher but still it's well into the good range and this is a 10 micro farad so whoops that one did have a higher reading you'll see and that's generally why you change out these smaller ones but still 1.5 for 10 that's at the high end of the green so technically good technically good this is a 10 micro farad 1.5 for 10 technically good but we're getting on the higher end of green but still good we've got a little one here this is a 100 micro farad and that is getting up there to 0.8 almost 0.9 ohms that one's getting in the yellow high yellow so there you go there's something that's reading high not dead though 22 micro farads up there to two points that's in the yellow so that's definitely suspect here we've got 4.7 at a 2 and that's still green but could be lower now we're gonna look at a 2.2 2.0 on a 2.2 screen that's probably fine now we've got the one micro farad we got a 3.5 for the one micro farad that is almost to the yellow but not quite so a lot of these are pushing pushing up that scale we got a 47 here that's reading 2 that's a yellow that's definitely suspect a 47 that would read that high and then 100 we got a 0.7 for 100 that's borderline borderline close to bad not quite though oh look at this one this is a 4.7 but it's only reading in the high green then micro farads that's in the yellow I still we still haven't found one that's like that's this reading bad really 2.2 here we go gosh that's close I mean we've got a couple that are like high that 2.2 is 8 ohms that's although that's a low micro farad capacitor that's a really high reading that's pretty nasty this is a 47 still in the green these are those 47s from the neckboard that's what these are it's still in the green and finally all these neckboards got one more down in this tray wow last one nope still still not bad so there's probably a couple on here that would definitely need to be changed and then about half of them about half of them are still good and then half of them are or you know the other majority of them are in the suspects so they're they're time to change especially especially when it comes to something vital on the crt like the power board or neckboard or deflection areas because those are the areas that have the most wear and tear down to them all right everybody it's been an hour and 20 minutes and getting close to early afternoon here if there's any questions about anything we've gone over so far I'll be glad to take a second to address those and for the next plan going forward I am going to type this kit up type it all up and then I will make an order sheet an order a test kit based on what I would order and then I will install the kit I might even do that part on another stream I'm not really sure because I do want to rework a lot of that solder and so maybe that's what we'll do on a next live stream for this project is we'll install the caps and rework a lot of that bad solder and then I can take it upstairs and test it because this is a big TV so I didn't want to bring it downstairs the tube's too big so it's upstairs in the loading area and that's why I'm going to do a full episode on this so you'll get to see what happens at the end of it and how it looks I'll show all the inputs on it and how those work and look but that's it oh yeah sorry Yura I think I did see that question it was about the FW 900 restoration I don't I don't know that's that's kind of an awaiting thing right now I've got to get my honestly I need to get some more work done to my tube tester and then I can test the tube but I believe either the tube is bad or there is a IC on the neckboard of that set that is proprietary and it's so it's not like a normal transistor on a neckboard it's like a multi transistor in one chip that does a thousand things so I haven't been able to find a replacement of that chip because I think that chip might be bad but how can you even tell if that chip is bad it's hard to tell a gim lot ask out of curiosity is there common capacitor values you keep in stock yes and it's most of the ones you saw but I what I do for example is I consolidate some of this so my stocks are going to be between I don't tend to keep a lot of 16 volt capacitors in stock I generally keep like 25 50 volt capacitors and then some of the higher end or higher voltage ones too but yeah like 50 volts you go in and make a 50 volt stock kit you go 50 volt all right I need a bunch of 0.47 micro farads I need a bunch of 1 micro farads I need a bunch of 2.2 3.3 4.7 10 and then you jump up from there to 47 you might even get some 22s and 33s you basically just go through the whole thing because you'll need them and they're cheap so yeah how are the dogs are great they're up getting walked right now by my wife who's upstairs walking home from her lunch break I think hey thanks Jonathan thank you for being here all right we're at Ossity good luck and working on the same set yep Troy uh no this one doesn't have a distorted dark-sided but that's probably something to do with the magnetism in the set maybe the yoke has shifted a little bit McMuffin McMuffin I will warn you guys this set did not have a resistor like a lot of the Sonys have had uh did not have a self-discharging resistor I don't know if I got it on film I was holding the camera with one hand and discharging the set but I could literally hear when I pulled the cap off before discharging it I could literally hear the like the electricity still generated off the little metal it was amazing and it's been a long time since I've seen that so if you're working um if you're working on this set know that you need to be careful there's no discharge there's no auto discharge on it all right David are asked where do you purchase your caps um there's no place really to get a good cap kit pre-made on a crt because values on caps if you make like a cap kit shop shopping cart a lot of the times a cap will go out of stock and not come back in stock for years and so that's the reason I try to provide a list like this so you could take a list like this and go to like mauser.com or digikey those are the two big providers in my area but you need to check which major parts supplier provides parts to your area at a good price and then so the good thing about it is you know it does take time to go in there and and make these cap kits um on your own but you have the list and if you make the cap kit on your own and order the parts from the supplier you're going to pay like generally speaking less than twenty thirty dollars for all the caps uh very good uh deals all right thanks Scott Scott review says it was a chill stream thank you for doing the podcast too yeah we love it still doing a lot of things people ask does my crt net recap Cameron let me see here which you're asking people as always asked does my crt net recap do you have any advice symptoms that could present themselves yeah so if there's any kind of like screen glitches or like edge movement those are kind of good signs that the caps are going bad the thing is we're looking at machines that are all past the technical lifespan of the capacitor like even these good capacitors are technically beyond their life expectancy so we're at a point now where a lot of these recaps are preventative maintenance right because it's it's much easier to go in and recap a set and do it properly and then you just reuse the set and most of the time you don't have an issue but if you wait till an issue shows up it's much harder to figure out what failed and then you could go in and recap the whole set and possibly fix the issue but not always but if you've already had the cat issue you know the set recapped it's probably not a cap or it could be a bad cap and you'd notice that great i'm glad the answers are helping um let me see i think there was one more can uv sunlight damage the phosphor layer on the screen i don't know that answer i don't believe it does but i'm sorry i i don't have a scientific enough knowledge on that i think anything in sunlight isn't really good i mean i guess the best thing would be to see a crt that's been sitting there with the sun bouncing off it all day at like a business and see if it looks any different it could very well yeah there's always the chances in these old sets we just saw it today a lead free solder set i guarantee you that this set is going to have way more trouble down the road from bad solder than the capacitors the capacitors are rubicons we just tested them most of them tested good um usually when i recap a pvm that's like you've seen me do here there's plenty of times where there'll be more caps than this that show it bad but the thing never looked bad so it's crazy master safe i don't know about that i mean the you're gonna have to try i don't if you got fuses blowing it's because if you have fused blowing in a crt it's because there's some problem or you could definitely get a controlled power supply and limit the power and voltage and everything if you want to limit the the power going into the uh set like conditioner or something but um i don't know because there's like a fused in and that device and if that fuse blows it's because you're getting a voltage surge from the outlet angstroy all right hey steven good to see you well i'm sorry you got here just at the end of the stream but that's it's just sometimes how it goes look guys this one will be up you want to come back check it out if you missed anything you want to go back to the beginning and see this cap kit being built um that'll be fine it'll be here and uh again i will try to see if if you keep it in tabs with me on the channel or on twitter i'll make an announcement if we're into going live later on tonight that would be more along the lines of like seven hours from now so i don't care what time zone you're in if we do that it would be around after nine p.m eastern standard time so that's six to seven hours thanks everybody have a wonderful day i really do appreciate everybody coming here and uh hanging out especially you know every time i get a super chat too that's awesome i really appreciate that but even just coming hanging out watching and being interactive and being cool and asking the questions is just so awesome so thank you again everybody and i