 Hi you guys, welcome back to day two of my sew-along from McCall's 8255, this really cute tulip hem woven top. Like I said, today is day two where we are going to be constructing our bodice. Yesterday's video, if you missed it, was all about preparing everything. The fabric, the picking of size, making alterations, cutting the fabric and all of that stuff. So if you missed that, head over to yesterday's video. If you're caught up and you're with me, then we're just going to get sewing. We have some really beautiful princess seams to sew today, shoulder seam, all of that good stuff, so we will have a finished bodice. My advice for you is to sew your lining first. If you're sewing a lining, which again we talked about in yesterday's video, why you would need one or why you might not need one, that way if you have to make any alterations after we do a dry fit today, then you'll do them on the lining and it won't be as visible on the outer shell of your garment. If you are not using a lining, go ahead and sew this up with your regular fabric, obviously, and then we can make any fitting tweaks that we need to. You'll just be doing it on your regular fabric, just like you would normally. But without further ado, let's get to the sewing machine and start sewing this little cutie. All right, so starting to work on this bodice, our very first step is to fuse the interfacing to the necklines. So a note about this before you head over to your iron, if you are making the version with the tulip hem, go ahead and apply the interfacing directly to your lining that you cut out yesterday. If you are making the view that has the straight hem along the bottom and you're not wanting to line the whole thing like we talked about, then you are going to cut interfacing and your self fabric, the main fabric, not what would be your lining, but what would be your main fabric. You'll cut both of those out of these two pattern pieces and that's what you're going to interface. You're not going to interface directly onto the front or back. You're going to interface the interfacing pieces. Does that make sense? And that is what is going to become your facing. All right, so go ahead and tackle that and then come back because our next step is to start working on the princess seams of the front, but we are going to take our front piece right side up like so and then our side front piece also right sides up and because my fabric is the same on both sides, I'm going to use my noggin really quickly right sides up and then I'm going to pin on the right side just so I remember. So just putting a pin in here so I remember which side is the right side. You can obviously write on your fabric if you want, put a sticky on there, but I just always have pins readily available and then the front piece, we know what the right side is because it doesn't have the interfacing. All right, so working one piece at a time, we are taking this, applying it like so. I think it's easier for you guys to see what's going on if I can show you the pattern piece on the front piece. All right, so we have this single notch here. We also have a single notch over here. This one on the right side of the side front piece is the princess seam. This is what ends up becoming the princess seam here. This becomes your arm side and then this becomes your side seam. So you just have to remember that when you are doing this, you're taking the curvy curvy edge and that is what is getting placed right sides down. Okay, so you're going to have a notch here and a notch here and those are what get lined up and then this notch that's up here gets lined up with this notch here like so. All right, so that is what we are going to be doing. We do need to do some stay stitching though because this is such a curvy curve. We're going to have to do some stay stitching and some clipping just to make sure that those two curves go into each other nice and easily. Okay, so at our machines, our first step is going to be to stay stitch and a stay stitch is just regular stitch length at the seam line just to reinforce this seam and you're going to start at this little notch here at the top and stay stitch down until your second notch so not the first one but the second one and you're going to stop there on both sides of the front. All right, stay stitching is done. I'm going to put this up here so you guys can see it and then like I said the arm side up here, we're going to go right sides together where the pin is. The arm side goes to the top of the front piece and it gets placed like this where you have your flat edges making a right angle. Okay, so I'll just do the top then I'll come down to the first notch completely ignoring what's happening here. So line up your notches there again ignoring this coming down to our second notch ignoring everything that's happening in here doing that and then if you're making the tulip hem you're not going to sew all the way down to the bottom you are going to stop at where that is said like 4B it had like a little notch for B so that's where I'm going to stop right in here somewhere. If you're making the straight hem version you go all the way down to the bottom. All right so at this point you can see this is a little bit of like a one-to-one ratio so we can go ahead and pin that that'll be nice and easy and then through here we have to get these two curves to become one so the only way to do that is to clip the front piece through the raw edge up to the seam line so that the seam allowances can spread a little bit like so you don't have to do a gajillion of them maybe three I think clipping two but not through those uh that stay stitching line so I've got three of them there and then when you pull this apart you can see they want to come together now so line up your raw edges pin and now those curves kind of come together as one all right so you're going to stitch all the way from here all the way down to your little notch for B then repeat for the other side of the front all right and when you're done with the front this is what you should have beautiful princess seams that are nice and eased into each other in the front from the inside and then from the outside isn't she cute our little tulips are coming together and beautiful neckline beautiful top okay so now we need to do very similar thing for the back so we're going to be taking our back pieces right sides up which again is easy to know now because we have our interfacing done and we are taking the side back pieces putting those right sides up like so pinning them to remember which side is the right side it's real easy to get confused once you start trying to get these princess seams in all right and again we are going to go to our machines we're going to be stay stitching this seam again from this little notched corner here all the way down to our double notches and then once that stays stitched then you're going to take the side back piece here i'll do it like this again and see you have double notches here and that's what's going to go to your double notches here it's this long curve opposite of the arm side that gets placed right sides together so you're going to pin these notches together you're going to pin this guy together and then similarly if you're doing the tulip hem you're going to stop your stitching at that um where is this back yeah at these little dots that were that are right here so you come all the way down and then if you're doing the straight hem you come all the way off the edge all right so this is how my back pieces turned out i've obviously pressed them little tip grab one of these taylor's hams is what they're called like like the ham you have at christmas dinner um i have these linked in my amazon store uh the link for that is in the description box but basically it makes it super easy for you to um press around curves because this thing you know is like a big curve so you just put like the top of your well you do it upside down like this top of your princess seam at the top of the taylor's ham and then you can press around that curve nice and easily um and it makes them lay really flat and beautifully okay so now believe it or not we're sewing up side seams and shoulder seams i think that the hardest part of this is done i mean maybe the zipper will be a little bit challenging but princess seams if you have um gotten through this part you should be very proud of yourself you know um princess seams are a bit of an advanced sewing skill so who knows to all of us but basically at this point we're just doing straight seams so uh straight stitches so we've got right sides together of the back and the front we are putting together our side seams and our shoulder seams and just stitching those at the five eighths inch seam allowance really straightforward nothing difficult no curves okay so at this point we are trying it on for fit and making sure that all the alterations we made previously have applied and look okay so as you can see i still have a few few issues we have for the most part resolved the shoulder issue um you can see how that is acting here but now this because i just extended it from the top edge this is now a little bit tight and i'm getting you know some pulling i would like for it to kind of sit a little bit more like this and i think that i need to like kind of carve out some of that at the at the arm side in the front in order to help that lay flat okay so we're starting at the top working our way down you can see i have one breast is smaller than the other very normal so it might be helpful if i were to pinch out a little bit more from this particular princess seam just so that it lays nice and flat like this one does but you can see the adjustments to the length are actually really good my belly button is right here please ignore my weird tan my belly button is right here and so that's going to cover that up nicely these are like the kind of high rise pants i would wear with this but obviously like jeans or something so all of that is being covered and i don't feel exposed we can turn to the side and see now i don't have it sewn in the back i just have it pinned but we can see that the side seams are nice and straight they are in line with the side seam of the pants so all of that is looking good so i really just have a couple of issues with the front arm side and then if i stop tugging on it you can see a little bit more of the drag lines that we're getting here um and it's really just kind of coming from this not being big enough so i'm going to adjust that here on the lining right and then make those adjustments to the pattern pieces and then when i go cut out my fashion fabric you'll never know that i had to make adjustments um after we technically sew part of the garment if you want to show me your muslin your lining your initial version um to see my opinion on any further alterations that you need to make do not forget to sign up to be a hemsider we're doing live virtual zooms every night five p.m this week um so that i can look and see how you guys are progressing with the project so tonight we would look at your linings your shells your kind of initial version and see what further alterations you might need so hopefully i will see you tonight otherwise moving on to day three give it a go try it out see how it fits and make any final adjustments that you're going to make to the garment now before we move on to the rest of sewing for day three which we will tackle tomorrow and it's mostly the zipper the zipper and kind of attaching the lining and doing all of that stuff so i will meet you back here tomorrow keep on keep it on i'll see you tomorrow