 What's happening YouTube thanks for tuning back into the channel today right here at the rest of all mechanic We've got some more stuff going on today with the Duramax build and we're going to be focusing in on our heads As you guys saw in the last video We got our heads back from the machine shop and now we're going to be focusing on doing a couple little upgrades to them So you can see right here. We've got some comp cams valve springs. Those are going to be going on We're going to show you guys how to do that We got some upgraded retainers for them and we're going to be putting them on with some ARP head studs as well Doing the install on that one and we might even throw in the rocker arm adjustment to the video also today Depends on how far I get on the build. So make sure you stay tuned. We've got all that coming for you So here we are We've got the heads back from the machine shop and I kind of had them do just like a half job So I could show you guys what we do for the other top end the valve train portion of it So I had them just do the decking portion of it. They just decked it clean the head. That was about it So now we're pulling out the valves one at a time We've got a valve spring compressor and we're going to pull our valves out There's still quite a bit of carbon build up on the tops of these things. So we're going to get these cleaned off Just a little bit here first what we're going to be doing get those out and then We'll pull out a dirty one. I've kind of already cleaned this one up But we're going to kind of show you guys This one's pretty clean and then we'll eventually be valve lapping that one in But let me get a dirty one out here for you just to show you what's still in it Retainers right there. We are now. We've got our valves spring Pulled that and then we'll see how kind of nasty these ones still are. We'll see if we can get it to focus here focus focus focus focus So we've got quite a bit of carbon and stuff build up on the valves Still some nasty stuff. So we're going to get those cleaned off What I've got for that one is I've got some Mopar EGR valve cleaner or EGR cleaner Which is pretty much just dawn dish soap that we've got in Just a little bucket right here that we're going to be able to put these valves in let them soak a little bit Maybe take a little bit of scotch bright to them Get them cleaned off. So they're nice smooth surface on the top We're going to do these one at a time because we don't really want to change the position that they're in in the head And then we're going to be lapping them back in for that portion Also, we're going to be replacing our valve seals too. Don't want to forget that one We'll show you what we do for pulling the valve seals out You can see our valve seals are right here So these ones are actually pretty easy to get off. You just take a little tool to be able to pry up on them evenly back and forth and Then That is it they pop right out and then our new ones We've got over here. Let me grab real quick Got a bag of our New ones here and then those will just kind of put over the cap make sure the Seat right here is all nice and cleaned off got a nice even assembly And then these will just push back onto that section as well But the other thing is you don't want to do that until after you're done with your lapping So you can get all of the lapping material out, but pretty much you'll just push right on right there Okay, so we've got another one to lap in right here So we've got our valve got it all cleaned up and then we're going to take just a little bit of our lapping compound. Oh Comes out fast Gotta watch out for that one So get a little bit of that on the valve itself and then we're kind of kind of just slip it in Real nice and easy like Get it in there and then I know a lot of other guys use just a standard valve lapping tool However, I've got a special one. You guys snap on drill with a small piece of tubing that just so happens to be The same diameter on the inside as our valve So we will put that one on there and then I'll take a little bit of this soap compound Just a touch of my finger so I can give a slight amount of pressure on the back side to the valve while we're turning and giving pressure and pulling on the valve Little bit set of time. We're gonna switch directions Just give it a little bit of relief here in there and that should be about enough there for us You get this one off of here Yep, they're in the background. We're watching Some YouTube videos here, of course and then we Clean the end off of the valve there and you can see we've got a nice lapped in Edge to it right here and then our head is also lapped in so now we're going to take some rags Clean that off clean the surface off and then we're going to be putting our springs and retainers back on I'll show you exactly which ones we're putting on Big shout-out to my buddy Justin Dow running his Saturday live stream here So what we're going to be doing is when you guys put these valve seals in you're going to want to get just a little bit of lubrication on them there on The inside just to help them see into the head a little bit better And they're just going to kind of press into place Because like I said the inside of these is just you know the rubber inset Pushed on just like that should be just that easy guys and then the valve springs that we've got for you We've got here's the part number you guys can see that it's a comp cams valve spring number Now don't be alarmed when you guys look these up. They're actually going to come up as a Ford 5 4 4 6 Competition valve spring or if you look into the description below You know when you kind of get below there it says also fits some Duramax application Excuse me so that is going to be the one that we will be using for that It's going to have an increased spring rate on it. They are the 101 113 valve spring diameter So it's going to match up to the same one now the the retainers You know is going to match up to that one the retainers that you're going to want if you match up to these springs They're going to be the 701 dash 3 2 comp cams valve spring retainers now It's very hard to tell the difference But there is a slight difference between the lower seat and the upper seat the upper seat is going to literally be About a tenth of an inch smaller So if you can't tell make sure you measure it match it up figure that one out correctly So now we're going to get these put in there with the new retainers and we're going to use our old Or the new hats and then we're going to use our old retainers that we actually took out So now another little tip or trick for you You've got these tiny little retainers here, and we've got our valve spring Compressed with our compressor tool now the hardest thing is to get these onto there and make sure they hold on in their correct place So usually what I like to do is take a little bit of this trans Assembly lube which is you know kind of like a midline grease We're going to wipe that on there and Then we're going to be able to sit this on to Our valve Here within there, and then that grease is going to hold it into place So we don't have to worry about it falling out or anything like that See if we get a close-up in there so you can see that one Yep, we got the grease holding it into place, and then we'll get the second retainer And hold that into place and be able to let go of our spring compressor And now that we've got our valve retainers on and everything all seated back into place You guys get this focus and you guys can see how it's all in there And you guys can see the difference between the size of the valve springs on that portion So we're still using our same valves, but the upgraded spring rates So we are not going to have any valve float or anything like that when we're at higher rpm So all in all this is going to be pretty awesome, and I've got a lot more valves to do So I'm going to get back to that one and not bore you guys with doing You know 16 of these per cylinder head. So yep going to get to it All right, so now we're getting over to Putting our cylinder heads on prior to you want to make sure that you get these things nice and clean We ended up using a just snap on. Let's see what is this thing? CSA 8 6 USA yeah So it's just one of these scrapers to get all the big stuff off Kind of scrape that all down and then we took a little bit of scotch bright to the areas that were you know a little bit rough But we don't want to take a whiz wheel or anything because this is a nice block We checked the surface on it, and it looks pretty good now what we've got is our ARP head studs we're going to be putting these in you can obviously tell the top from the bottom These are coated with a little bit of oil You know just a nice really really thin coating just to help them kind of turn down in there The tops of them have an Allen bit on here on the end I believe they're like a five millimeter Allen, and then we're going to get these put into all of the openings right here And then all of these will oh there's no torque spec to these They are recommended by ARP to literally just tighten them down Hand tight is all they say to do three years later Just a nice little slight snug to it and then our head gaskets Have a look at these over here. We've got a set of GM AC Delco Grade C head gaskets. We had our heads milled there and gone through you guys saw that one So we make sure that if you guys do have your heads Deck milled whatever that you do use grade C head gaskets So we'll get these put on and we'll get all of our head studs put in as well All right So now we've got all of our head studs on and we've got our head gaskets into place a couple of preliminary things before you Do all that obviously make sure all of your holes are cleaned out of any kind of coolant or Debris or anything like that just so they're nice and even it's always a good idea to have a look across all of them Just to make sure we're even in a line all the way down all of them so we've got all of those into place and then another FYI before you put your heads on and You have them all cleaned and everything is I would recommend to put your exhaust manifold and intake manifold on Especially on the driver side now I already put the driver side on so don't mention you know that one because this fact right here on it LBZ this bolt here on your intake runner and This is your CP3 that bolt does not come out or go in if you guys are trying to take that one off It does not work So if you wanted to take your intake runner on or off when the CP3 isn't it doesn't happen So you had to pull the head or he had to pull CP3 I don't want to pull the CP3 so we're gonna put the intake runner on to there And obviously you can see how nice and painted we got them and we're gonna get those on there with some of this sealant The Malay JV 8 this is the sealer that they recommend to use for the intake Gaskets because that is actually what came in our head gasket set See we can get some numbers off of this one doesn't look like it There we go We've got That kit Yep right there That's our head gasket kit and full upper gasket kit that we want with so we're gonna get some of that put on to the intake Little runner. There's a little groove in the channel on that one and make sure you don't go any more than like a little bit More than an eighth inch bead on that one don't want too much squirting out. So we'll get that one put on To that side and we'll get our exhaust manifold on as well because I don't feel like you know Mess around with that tight space in there. So we'll get that put on and then we'll get the head put on We'll talk about the procedure for getting everything torqued down with these head studs So when we get our bead of sealant put on it's just going to be enough to fill the channel Just like this I might have got a little bit much in most in a couple places, but not too bad So then we're going to get it put on to our intake manifold here Which has been all nice and cleaned out and we're going to get put on there and the intake manifold those nuts and bolts are torqued to 18 foot-pounds and then the exhaust manifold when we get that put on That one's going to be torqued to 28 foot-pounds do a obvious Circular motion and putting the bolts and torquing them to proper specs like you do that one that one that one that one You know work your way all the way around. Yeah, I'm using the camera to show So that's what we're going to do get that one on there and then we'll be ready to put the head on Intake manifold is all torqued onto place and now we're doing our exhaust manifold If you guys were following the build last time we put the manifolds and the uppipes on and we ended up having to make shifts Some hardware this time we picked up the correct hardware from KB diesel performance and they are these nice heat treated 12 point smaller head Bolts that we're going to be putting on for the pro fab performance manifolds also made in the USA big shout out to them You guys make some awesome products Get rid of my doofty plug because we got an EGT sensor coming in for this thing letter 2 So we'll get these torqued down to 28 foot-pounds Now another little tip when you guys are putting these things on if you're using the factory style Multilayer steel exhaust manifold gaskets you guys can see that With the pro fab performance or any kind of aftermarket manifold That is these will be kind of folded over because normally these have a little heat shield built in for the upper bolts all I like to do is just take a standard pair of pliers and Kind of bend them flat so that when we go to put our head studs and nuts on Everything is nice and even and you're not going to have any kind of issues with clearance for your nuts So make sure you go ahead and do that one so last but not least before you guys get to putting the actual head on to The block here is you're going to want to make sure that cylinder number one is on top dead center This is over here on the passenger side make sure this one is on top dead center just because that's where we're going to be starting at With doing our valve lash adjustment, which is what we'll be doing here after we get these things torqued on So cylinder one top dead center now we'll get to putting the actual head on to the block like a boss Sit and tighten right So before we start putting these together you want to make sure that you have the correct Lubricant we've got the ARP Ultra Torque fastener assembly lubricant. This is going to be for putting on to our Washers we want to make sure that we get a good amount put on to each side of the washer Maybe if I can open it dummy So you're going to want to get it on both sides of the washer smear it in really good and then kind of just set it on here the main point of this one is You're going to be the most even torque that you possibly can do for when we're torquing these things down And as you can see there's a lot of these to do So you're going to want to do them one at a time make sure you don't miss one Get a good amount of the assembly lube on each of the washers So they turn just nicely and get them on to there I also like to take just a little bit on my finger and Put it on to the actual threads of the studs that will get us the best option for the easiest Torquing sequence so when we get that on there It's going to be able to let us evenly torque them all the way around now the four Bolts here up top make sure you put a little bit of the lube on to the threads of those as well So they can get evenly torqued also So now we're going to get all of these put on to here and then the actual nuts here The factory ones that you take off are going to be a 17 millimeter the ARP nuts that we have on this one they're going to be a 16 millimeter 12 point nut and They are going to go right on to that point make sure again a little bit of this lube goes a long way It works great put some of that on there, and we're going to get those started now when we start to tighten these we're going to have to go into a little bit of a Tightening sequence here, and I'll show this one on camera get you guys be able to see that one That is going to be the sequence in which you tighten all of those bolts You're going to do all of these standard ones here, and then the m8s up top afterwards all on this kit Specifically for the lbz. You're going to be tightened your main head stud nuts down to 125 foot-pounds on final But you want to evenly distribute that over three rounds of torquing You're going to want to do it usually I do about 50 foot-pounds 95 foot-pounds and then 125 foot-pounds on the final round of doing these and then the smaller m8s They're going to be tightened to 25 foot-pounds again split that up evenly into two or three different torque sequences And it'll end up being golden for you on that point. Just take your time do it right. Don't miss any Next we're going to be putting in our push rods and then our Rocker bridge assemblies the bridges and the rocker arms with the bridge to go across make sure when you guys are putting these in you lose use a generous amount of assembly lube You can't ever use too much of this one We actually have the Lucas high-performance assembly loop is what we're using on this one And then we got us a set of heavy-duty forged push rods here It's like part number on this one is h.a.m. 07d 06 It's going to be the part number on those so get some assembly lube on these and get them put into the block All right now we've got all of the push rods put in plenty of assembly lube put on to the ends now We've got our rocker bridges already installed as well with plenty of assembly lube put on the pivot points for those as well As you can tell make sure you get them in the correct orientation The curve to them is going to be facing away from your injector opening as to leave enough clearance for that Injector and the valve cover to be in there and over that now We're going to put our rocker shaft and rocker assemblies into it and then here where they tighten Each one of those bolts are going to be tightened to 35 foot-pounds. I'm sorry 30 foot-pounds Yeah, we're going to do those evenly across from the middle out All right, so now we're going to get to the point that you guys really want to be able to watch and pay attention We're going to be doing valve lash adjustment now all kinds of different people have different opinions on this The actual technical Haines manual says to tighten these up when you get to 12.012 on their valve lash point zero one two millimeters Actually, then a lot of other people say zero one one loose zero one one or even zero one zero of what I've heard But I think what we're going to do is we're going to go right into the middle where you're going to do a nice even Zero one one valve lash tolerance on these Hopefully that'll be able to make things quiet enough for what we're looking for on a nice even startup Like I said, make sure you got plenty of assembly loop on to your rocky ridges before you guys start this one Now when I say top dead center on cylinder one You're going to want to make sure that you are on the compression stroke another way to figure that one out It's going to be right here on your crankshaft balancer There's going to be a little notch right there and it's going to match up with that little notch right there on the block And how you really know is you're going to rotate the engine over and if you see the intake valve opening Right before it's going down and then it comes up and the exhaust doesn't does not open It's not open that is going to be your compression stroke That is going to be the first round of numbers that you're going to be doing now I'm going to throw up a picture onto the screen right now and This one right here. We're going to be putting all these red arrows on here for you Every one of these red arrows are the ones that you are going to be tightening up So now you we are going to loosen up right here It's going to be a 14 millimeter nut that is the stop nut and then as you can see It's just a flat head screw that is the adjustment for our Backlash, so we've got a an 011 spacer in here and we're going to continue to tighten the set screw down Until right about there. We've got some just a little bit of drag on that one And then that's a pretty good spot right there and we're going to tighten not loosen Thank you third hand But yeah, we've got a nice even spot right there that we're working with See if we can get it fit back in there. Yep. Just on the tight side right there So that looks pretty good for that one moving on to the second one here. This is going to be our exhaust side Loosen up the screw And we've got plenty of lash in here. So tighten your upper hair right there This is a very nice one filming to have three hands on the operation There we've got just enough We've got just enough to drag it out there without too much grabbing onto that one Now for the second round of marks, we're going to be rotating the engine over 360 degrees We're going to go with that same mark on the balancer and we're going to rotate it 360 degrees around until cylinder one Is on top dead center of the exhaust Sorry of the exhaust stroke Then we are going to do the valve lash adjustment for these ones Highlighted here in this photo We're going to get those lashed up and we will see how things end up looking So now after we're done doing our second round of those now You're going to want to rotate your engine over at least I'd say 10 12 times Rotate it all the way over and then look here To find out your intake and obviously as the screwdriver or the piston is going down Your intake is going to be opening and then when it's coming back up that intake will be closed Obviously, that's your compression stroke So check all the valve lash again Check the first round of them on a compression stroke and then the second round of them on the exhaust stroke Just to make sure everything that is good and into place And then once that is done make sure your lock nuts are tightened to between 16 and 20 foot pounds Well guys, that's about all we've got for today's video Hopefully you enjoyed this one and actually learned something a little bit as well along the way I know these cylinder heads on these Duramaxes seem a little bit daunting, but They are to a certain extent But really they just take a whole lot of little bits of time to them Take your time on them get everything cleaned up right valve done Valve lash all your torque specs make sure those are all correct as well Having a motor that is all torqued down correctly cleaned up properly It's going to give you peace of mind Beyond what any mechanical value usually seems to be So make sure you guys give this video a thumbs up if you liked it today Make sure you go check me out on instagram facebook share where you can when you can it always seems to help Thank you guys for tuning in. I appreciate and as always you guys stay awesome