 CHAPTER 11 PART 1 OF HOW I FOUND LIBBYNSTON BY SIR HENRY M. STANLEY CHAPTER 11 PART 1 THROUGH YUKUWENDI, YUVINZA AND UHA TO YUIGI We bade farewell to Murara on the 17th of October to continue our route north-westward. All the men and I were firm friends now, all squabbling had long seized. Umbae and I had forgotten our quarrel. The Kyryngozi and myself were ready to embrace, so loving and affectionate were the terms upon which we stood towards one another. Confidence returned to all hearts, for now, as Mabruki Unyanyembe said, we could smell the fish of the Tanganyika. Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind. We could snap our fingers at the terrible Murombu and his unscrupulous followers. And, by and by, perhaps we may be able to laugh at the timid seer, who always prophesied pretentious events, shake the sun of Naseeb. We laughed joyously as we glided in Indian file through the young jungle beyond the clearing of Murara, and most of our prowess. Oh, we were truly brave that morning. Emerging from the jungle we entered a thin forest where numerous ant hills were seen, like so many sand dunes. I imagine that these ant hills were formed during a remarkably wet season when possibly the forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen ants at work by thousands engaged in the work of erecting their hills in other districts suffering from inundation. What a wonderful system of cells these tiny insects construct. A perfect labrenth, cell within cell, room within room, hall within hall, an exhibition of engineering talents in high architectural capacity. A model city, cunningly contrived for safety and comfort. Emerging after a short hours marked out of the forest, we welcomed the sight of a murmuring, translucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the north-west, which we regard with the pleasure which only men who have for a long time sickened themselves with that potable liquid of the phallus kind found in Salinas, Mubagas, pools, and puddle holes can realize. Beyond this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge from the summit of which our eyes are gladdened with scenes that are romantic, animated, and picturesque. They form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into the depths of forests at towering stems of trees and at tufted crowns of foliage. We have now before us scores of cones dotting the surface of a plane which extends across southern Nukunongo to the territory of the Wafipa, and which reaches as far as the Rikwap plain. The immense prospect before which we are suddenly ushered is most varied. Exclusive of Kunaiical hills and ambitious flat-topped and isolated mountains, we are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa River, which empties into the Tanganyika south of where we stand, and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tanganyika receives, a degree or so north of this position. A single but lengthy latitudinal ridge serves as a dividing line in the watershed of the Rungwa and the Malagarazi, and a score of miles or so farther west of this ridge rises another, which runs north and south. We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a narrow ravine with a marshy bottom, through the oozy, myery contents of which the watersheds and watershed of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the Rikwap plain. This was only one of many ravines, however, some of which were several hundred yards broad. Others were but a few yards in width, the bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires, overgrown with dense tall reeds and papyrus. Over the surface of these great depths of mud were seen hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-colored water, which swarmed with animal-cule, by and by a few miles south of the base of this ridge, which I call Kasira from the country which it cuts in halves. These several ravines converge and debush into the broad, marshy, oozy, spongy river of Yusensi, which tends in the south-easterly direction, after which, gathering the contents of the watercourses from the north and northeast into its own broader channel, it soon becomes a stream of some breadth and consequence, and meets a river flowing from the east, from the direction of Urore, with which it conflows into the riqua plain and empties about sixty rectilineal miles further west into the Tanganyika lake. The Rangual River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line between the country of Yusoa and the north and Ufipa on the south. We had barely completed the construction of our camp defenses when some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives which advanced toward our camp. Headed by a man, who, from his garb and headdress, we knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging the customary salutations, I was informed that this party was an embassy from Simba, who ruled over Kasira in southern Unyamwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of Makasua, king of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with Wazavira, of whom I was warned to beware. He had heard such reports of my greatness that he was sorry I did not take his road to Yucowindi, that he might have had the opportunity of seeing me and making friends with me. But in the absence of a personal visit, Simba had sent this embassy to overtake me in the hope that I would present him with a token of my friendship in the shape of cloth. Though I was rather taken aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this powerful chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after Livingston he and I might fall out. And since it was incumbent on me to make a present for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my desire for peace by giving, if I gave it all, a royal present. The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the lion of Kasira, two gorgeous cloths, and two other dodai consisting of Marikani and Kaneka. And if I might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a friend forever. On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we continued our march northwestward by a road which zigzagged along the base of the Kasira Mountains, and which took us into all kinds of difficulties. We traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines, the depth of mire and water which caused the utmost anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the stygian ooze, caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds of the Rangwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime. Decency forbade that I should strip, and the hot sun would also blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose time in undressing and dressing. And as each man was weighted with his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to bear me across. Nothing remained there for but to march on, encumbered as I was by my clothing and accoutrements into these several marshy watercourses with all the philosophical stoicism that my nature could muster for such emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable to say the least. We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no enemy was in sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of the northern part of Yuzhvira, and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the desolated country, which must have been once, judging from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages, extremely populous. A young jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found quarters for the expedition, which were by no means uncomfortable. I shot three brace of guinea fowl in the neighborhood of Masongi, the deserted village we occupied, and Ulamango, one of my hunters, bagged an antelope called the Mobuala, for whose meat some of the wanyamweezy have a superstitious aversion. I take the species of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a reddish hide, head long, horn short, to be the Nizzo antelope, discovered by Spiek in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is, according to Dr. Skellator, Tragellophus spiechia. It has a short bushy tail and long hair along the spine. A long march in a west by north direction, lasting six hours, through a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was otherwise prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by the base of a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a forest of feathery bamboo. On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and the conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which slope from the base of the hill cone, we were greeted with another picturesque view of cones and scarved mountains, which heaved upwards in all directions. A march of nearly five hours through this picturesque country brought us to the Mapokwa River, one of the tributaries of the Rangwa, into a village lately deserted by the Wasavira. The huts were almost all intact, precisely as they were left by their former inhabitants. In the gardens were yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, were most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still rested the lorries and the penetes of the Wasavira, in the shape of large and exceedingly well-made earthen pots. In the neighboring river, one of my men succeeded in few minutes, in catching sixty fish of the silerous species, with the hand alone. A number of birds hovered about the stream, such as the white-headed fish eagle and the kingfisher, enormous snowy spoonbills, abyss, martins, etc. This river, issued from a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the village of Mapokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow thread of water, sinuously winding amongst tall reeds and dense breaks on either side of the home of hundreds of antelopes and buffalo. South of Mapokwa, the valley broadens, and the mountains deflect eastward and westward, and beyond this point commences the plain known as the rikwa, which, during the Masika, is inundated, but which, in the dry season, presents the same bleached aspect that plains in Africa generally do when the grass has ripened. Traveling up along the right bank of the Mapokwa on the 21st, we came to the head of the stream and the sources of the Mapokwa, issuing out of deep defiles enclosed by lofty ranges. The Mubwala and the Buffalo were plentiful. On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half, we came to the beautiful stream of the Matambu, the water of which was sweet and clear as crystal, and flowed northward. We saw for the first time the home of the lion and the leopard hear what Frelagarth says of the place, where the thorny break and thicket densely filled the interspace of the trees, through whose thick branches never sunshine lights the place. There the lion dwells, a monarch mightiest among the brutes. There his right to reign supremist never won his claim disputes. There he layeth down to slumber, having slain and taken his fill. There he roameth, there he croucheth, as it suits his lordly will. We camped but a few yards from just such a place as the poet describes. The herdkeeper who attended the goats and donkeys soon after arrival and camp drove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it they traveled through a tunnel in the break caused by elephants and rhinoceros. They had barely entered the dark canvass passage when a black spotted leopard sprang and fastened its fangs on the neck of one of the donkeys, causing it from pain to prey hideously. Its companion set up such a frightful chorus and so lashed their heels in the air at the feline marauder that the leopard bounded away through the break as if ensured the smay at the noisy cries which the attack had provoked. The donkeys neck exhibited some frightful wounds but the animal was not dangerously hurt. Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adventure with a lion or a leopard in that dark belt of tall trees under whose impenetrable shade grew the dense thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the carnivorous species I took a stroll along the awesome place with the gunbearer Kalulu carrying an extra gun and further a supply of ammunition. We crept cautiously along looking keenly into the deep dark dens the entrances of which were revealed to us as we journeyed expecting every moment to be held the reputed monarch of the break and thicket found for to meet us and I took a special delight in picturing in my imagination the splendor and majesty of the wrathful brute as he might stand before me I peered closely into every dark opening hoping to see the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes and the glory menacing front of the lion as he would regard me but alas after an hour's search for adventure I had encountered nothing and I accordingly wax courageous and crept into one of these leafy thorny caverns and found myself shortly standing under a canopy of foliage that was held above my head fully a hundred feet by the shapely and towering stems of the royal Mavuli who can imagine the position a smooth lawn like glade a dense and awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us those stately natural pillars a glorious flax of royal trees bearing at such sublime heights vivid green masses of foliage through which no single sunray penetrated while at our feet babble the primarovial brook over smooth pebbles in soft tones befitting the sacred quiet of the scene who could have desecrated this solemn holy harmony of nature but just as I was thinking it impossible that any man could be tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place I saw a monkey perched high on a branch over my head contemplating with something of an awestruck look the strange intruders beneath well I could not help it I laughed laughed loud and long until I was hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises which seemed to respond to my laughing a troop of monkeys hidden in the leafy depths above had been rudely awakened and startled by the noise I made we're hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful clamor of cries and shrieks emerging again into the broad sunlight I strolled further in search of something to shoot presently I saw feeding quietly in the forest which bounded the valley of the matambu on the left a huge reddish colored wild boar armed with most horrid tusks leaving kalulu crouched down behind a tree and my solar helmet behind another close by that I might more safely stalk the animal I advanced towards him some 40 yards and after taking a deliberate aim fired at his foreshoulder as if nothing had hurt him whatever the animal made a furious bound and then stood with his bristles erected and toughed tail curved over the back a most formidable brute in appearance while he was thus listening and searching the neighborhood with his keen small eyes I planted another shot in his chest which plowed its way through his body instead of falling however as I expected he would he charged furiously in the direction the bullet had come and as he rushed past me another ball was fired which went right through him but still he kept on until within six or seven yards from the trees behind which kalulu is crouching down on one side and the helmet was resting behind another he suddenly halted and then dropped but as I was about to advance on him with my knife to cut his throat he suddenly started up his eyes had caught sight of the little boy kalulu and were then almost immediately afterwards attracted by the sight of the snowy helmet these strange objects on either side of him proved too much for the bore he darted on one side into a thick break from which it was impossible to oust him and as it was now getting late and the camp was about three miles away I was reluctantly obliged to return without the meat on our way to camp we were accompanied by a large animal which persistently followed us on our left it was too dark to see plainly but a large form was visible if not very clearly defined it must have been a lion unless it was the ghost of the dead bore that night about 11 p.m. we were startled by the roar of a lion in close proximity to the camp soon it was joined by another and another still and the novelty of the thing kept me awake I appeared through the gate of the camp and endeavored to sight my rifle my little winchester in the accuracy of which I had perfect confidence but alas for the cartridges they might have been as well filled with sawdust for all the benefit I derived from them disgusted with the miserable ammunition I left the lions alone and turned in with their roaring as a lullaby that terrestrial paradise for the hunter the valley of the palusid matumbu was deserted by us the next morning for the settlement commonly known to the wakawende as Imreemrah with as much unconcern as though it were hauling desert the village near which we encamped was called itaga in the district of russoa as soon as we had crossed the river matumbu we had entered ukawende commonly called kawende by the natives of the country the district of russoa is thickly populated the people are quiet and well disposed to strangers though few ever come to this region from afar one or two wasawahili traders visited every year or so from pumbura and russoa but very little ivory being obtained from the people the long distance between the settlement serves to deter the regular trader from venturing hither if caravans arrive here the objective point to them is the district of pumbura situated southwesternly one day's good marching or say 30 statute miles from Imreemrah or they make for usawah on the tanganyika via pumbura katuma, unyombe, and ugarwa usawah is quite an important district on the tanganyika populous and flourishing this was the road we had intended to adopt after leaving Imreemrah but the reports received at the latter place for bayes had to venture from upundu the sultan of usawah though a great friend to the arab traders was at war with the colony of the wasavira who we must remember were driven from mapoqwa and vicinity in utenda and who were said to have settled between pumbura and russoa it remained for us like wise prudent men having charge of a large and valuable expedition on our hands to decide what to do and what route to adopt now that we hit approach much nearer to ugigi than we were at unyombe i suggested that we should make direct for the tanganyika by compass trusting to no road or guide but to march direct west until we came to the tanganyika and then follow the lake shore on foot until we came to ugigi for it ever haunted my mind that if doctor living sin should hear of my coming which he might possibly do if i traveled along any known road he would leave and that my search for him would consequently be a stern chase but my principal men thought it better that we should now boldly turn our faces north and march for the malagarazi which was said to be the large river flowing from the east to the tanganyika but none of my men knew the road to the malagarazi neither could guides be hired from sultan imrira we were however informed that the malagarazi was but two days march from imrira i thought it safe in such a case to provision my men with three days rations the village of itaga is situated in a deep mountain hollow finally overlooking a large extent of cultivation the people grow sweet potatoes minowak out of which tapioca is made beans and holocaust not one chicken could be purchased for love or money and besides grain only a lean scraggly specimen of a goat a long time ago imported from uvinza was procurable october the 25th will be remembered by me as a day of great troubles in fact a series of troubles begin from this day we struck an easterly road in order to obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded the valley of imrira on the west and on the north we camped after a two and a half hours march at its foot the defile promised a feasible means of ascent to the summit of the plateau which rose upward in a series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of imrira while ascending that lofty arc of mountains which founded westerly and northerly the basin of imrira extensive prospects southward and eastward were revealed the character of the scenery at yukawende is always animated in picture s but never sublime the folds of this ridge contain several ruins of bomas which seemed to have been erected during wartime the mobemba fruit was plentiful along this march and every few minutes i could see from the rear one or two men hastening to secure a treasure of it which they discovered on the ground a little before reaching the camp i had shot at a leopard but failed to bring him down as he bounded away at night the lions roared as at the matumba river a lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows of a great forest which protected us from the hot sunbeams brought us on the next day to a camp newly constructed by a party of Arabs from yujiji who had advanced thus far on their road to unya and yembe but alarmed at the reports of the war between marumbu and the Arabs had returned our route was along the right bank of the rugafu a broad sluggish stream well choked with the matete reeds and the papyrus the tracks in the boadavash of buffalos were numerous and there were several indications of rhinoceros being near in a deep clump of timber near this river we discovered a colony of bearded and leonian looking monkeys as we were about leaving our camp on the morning of the 28th a herd of buffalo walked deliberately into view silence was quickly restored but not before the animals to their great surprise had discovered the danger which confronted them we commenced stalking them but we soon heard the thundering sound of their gallop after which it became a useless task to follow them with a long mark in their wilderness before one the road led on this day over immense sheets of sandstone and iron ore the water was abominable and scarce and famine began to stare us in the face we traveled for six hours and had yet seen no sign of cultivation anywhere according to my map we were yet two long marches from the malagarazi if captain Burton had correctly laid down the position of the river according to the natives account we should have arrived at the malagarazi on this day end of chapter 11 part one chapter 11 part two of how i found livingston this is a liber vox recording all liber vox recordings on the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit liber vox.org read by beth and how i found livingston travels adventures and discoveries in central africa including four months residents with dr livingston by sir henry m stanley chapter 11 part two through ukawendi uvinza and uh-huh to yuji on the 29th we left our camp and after a few minutes we were in view of the sublimest but ruggedest scenes we had yet beheld in africa the country was cut up in all directions by deep wild and narrow ravines trending in all directions but generally toward the northwest while on either side rose enormous square masses of naked rock sandstone sometimes towering and rounded sometimes pyramidal sometimes in truncated cones sometimes in circular ridges with sharp rugged naked backs with but little vegetation anywhere visible except it obtained a precarious tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hilltop whether some soil had fallen or at the base of the reddish ochre scarps which everywhere lifted their fronts to our view a long series of descents down rocky gullies wherein we were environed by threatening masses of disintegrated rock brought us to a dry stony ravine with mountain heights looming above us a thousand feet high this ravine we followed winding around in all directions but which gradually widened however into a broad plane with a western trend the road leaving this struck across a low ridge to the north and we were in view of deserted settlements where the villages were built on frowning castellated masses of rock near an upright mass of rock over 70 feet high and about 50 yards in diameter which dwarfed the gigantic sycamore close to it we made our camp after five hours and 30 minutes continuous and rapid marching the people were very hungry they had eaten every scrap of meat and every grain they possessed 20 hours before and there was no immediate prospect of food i had but a pound and a half of flour left and this would not have suffice to begin to feed a force of over 45 people but i had something like 30 pounds of tea and 20 pounds of sugar left and i at once as soon as we arrived at camp ordered every kettle to be filled and placed on the fire and then made tea for all giving each man a quart of hot grateful beverage well sweetened parties stole out also into the depths of the jungle in search for wild fruit and soon returned laden with baskets of the woodpeach and tamarind fruit which though it did not satisfy relieved them that night before going to sleep the one guana set up a loud prayer to Allah to give them food we rose but times in the morning determined to travel until food could be procured or we dropped down from sheer fatigue and weakness rhinoceros tracks are bounded and buffalo seem to be plentiful but we never beheld the living thing we crossed scores of short steeps and descended as often into the depths of dry stoning gollies and then finally entered a valley bounded on one side by a triangular mountain with perpendicular sides and on the other by a bold group a triplet of hills while marching down this valley which soon changed its dry bleached aspect to a vivid green we saw a forest in the distance and shortly found ourselves in cornfields looking keenly around for a village we described it on the summit of a lofty triangular hill on our right a loud exultant shout was raised at the discovery the men threw down their packs and begin to clamor for food volunteers were asked to come forward to take cloth and scale the heights to obtain it from the village at any price while three or four sallied off we rested on the ground quite worn out in about an hour the forging party returned with the glorious tidings that food was plentiful that the village we saw was called Weld Nizagoras the son of Nizagora by which of course we knew that we were in Uvinza Nizagora being the principal chief in Uvinza we were further informed that Nizagora the father was at war with Laquinda Mira about some salt pans in the valley of Malagarazi and that it would be difficult to go to Ujiji by the usual road owing to this war but for a consideration the son of Nizagora was willing to supply us with guides who would take us safely by a northern road to Ujiji everything honoring well for our prospects we encamp to enjoy the good cheer for which our troubles and privations during the transit of the ukawendi forests and jungles had well preferred us i'm now going to extract from my diary of the march as without its aid i deem it impossible to relate fully our various experiences so as to show them properly as they occurred to us and as these extracts were written and recorded at the close of each day they possessed more interest in my opinion than a cold relation of facts now toned down in memory october 31st tuesday our road led east northeast for a considerable time after leaving the base of the triangular mountain where on the son of nizagora had established his stronghold in order to avoid a deep and impassable portion of march that stood between us in the direct route to the malagarazi river the valley sloped rapidly to this marsh which received in its broad bosom the drainage of three extensive ranges soon we turned our faces northwest and prepared to cross the marsh and the guides informed us as we halted on the eastern bank of a terrible catastrophe which occurred a few yards above where we were preparing to cross they told of an arab and his caravan consisting of 35 slaves who had suddenly sunk out of sight and were never more heard of this marsh as it appeared to us presented a breath of some 100 yards on which grew a close network of brass with much decayed matter mixed up with it in the center of this and underneath it ran a broad deep and rapid stream as the guides proceeded across the men still after them with cautious footsteps as they arrived near the center we begin to see the unstable grassy bridge so curiously provided by nature for us move up and down in heavy languid undulations like the swell of the sea after a storm where the two asses of the expedition moved the grassy waves rose a foot high but suddenly one unfortunate animal plunged his feet through and as he was unable to rise he soon made a deep hollow which was rapidly filling with water with the aid of ten men however we were enabled to lift him bodily up and land him on a firmer part and guiding them both across rapidly the entire caravan crossed without accident on arriving at the other side we struck off to the north and found ourselves in a delightful country in every way suitable for agriculturalists great rocks rose here and there but in their fissures rose stately trees under whose umbrage initialed the villages of the people we found the various village elders greedy for cloth but the presence of the younger son of nizagara's men restrained their propensity for extortion goats and sheep were remarkably cheap and in good condition and consequently to celebrate our arrival near the malagarazi a flock of eight goats was slaughtered and distributed to the men november 1st striking northwest after leaving our camp and descending the slope of a mountain we soon beheld the anxiously looked for malagarazi a narrow but deep stream flowing through a valley pinned in by lofty mountains fish eating birds lined the trees on its banks villages were thickly scattered about food was abundant and cheap after traveling along the left bank of the river a few miles we arrived at the settlements recognizing kiala as their ruler i had anticipated we should be able at once to cross the river but difficulties arose we were told to camp before any negotiations could be entered into when we demurred we were informed that we might cross the river if we wished but we should not be assisted in any way by any bevinza being compelled to halt for this day the tent was pitched in the middle of one of the villages and the bales were stored in one of the huts with four soldiers to guard them after dispatching an embassy to kiala eldest son of the great chief nizagara to request permission to cross the river as a peaceful caravan kiala sent word that the white men should cross his river after the payment of 56 cloths 56 cloths signified a bail nearly here was another opportunity for diplomacy bombay and his mani were empowered to treat kiala about the hanga but it was not to exceed 25 doli at 6 am having spoken for seven hours the two men returned with the demand for 13 doli for nizagara and 10 doli for kiala poor bombay was hoarse but as money still smiled and i relented congratulating myself that the preposterous demand which was simply robbery was no worse three hours later another demand was made kiala had been visited by a couple of chiefs from his father and the chiefs being told that a white man was at the ferry put in a claim for a couple of guns in a keg of gunpowder but here my patience was exhausted and i declared that they should have to take them by force for i would never consent to be robbed and dispoiled after any such fashion until 11 p.m bombay and his mani were negotiated about this extra demand arguing quarreling threatening until bombay declared they would talk him mad if it lasted much longer i told bombay to take two cloths one for each chief and if they did not consider it enough then i should fight the present was taken and the negotiations were terminated at midnight november 2 i had an island one and a half hour west of kialas we arrived before the island of ihada on the left bank of the malagarazi at five p.m the morning you haven't been wasted in pure royal talk with the owner of the canoes at the ferry the final demand for ferridge across was eight yards of cloth and four fundo of samisami or red beads which was at once paid four men with their loads were permitted to cross in the small unshapeling cranky canoes when the boatman had discharged their canoes of their passengers and cargoes they were ordered to halt on the other side and to my astonishment another demand was made the ferryman had found that two fundo of these were of short measure and two fundo more must be paid otherwise the contract for ferriness across would be considered null and void so two fundo more were added but not without demur and much talk which in these lands is necessary four fundo equals 40 necklaces one fundo being 10 necklaces three times the canoe went backwards and forwards when low another demand was made with the usual clamor and fierce wordy dispute this time for five kehete for the man who guided us to the ferry a shuka of cloth for a babbler who had attached himself to the old womanish juma who did nothing but babble and increased the clamor these demands were also settled about sunset we endeavored to cross the donkeys simba a fine wild kinya muizi donkey went in first with a rope attached to his neck he had arrived in the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to struggle a crocodile had seized him by the throat the four animals struggles were terrific chalpero was dragging on the rope with all his might but to no use for the donkey sank and we saw no more of him the depth over the river at this place was about 15 feet we had seen the light brown heads the glittering eyes and the rigid backs hovering about the vicinity but we had never thought the reptiles would advance so near to such an exciting scene as the vicinity of the ferry presented during the crossing saddened by this loss we resumed our work and by 7 p.m. we were all across accepting bombay and the only donkey now left which was to be brought across in the morning when the crocodile should have deserted the river november 3rd what contention have we not been witnessed to these last three days what anxiety have we not suffered ever since our arrival at yuvinza the wavins are worse than the wogogo and their greed is more insatiable we got the donkey across with the aid of maganga or medicine men who spat some chewed leaves of a tree which grows close to the stream over him he informed me he could cross the river at any time day or night after rubbing his body with these chewed leaves which he believed to be the most potent medicine about 10 a.m. appeared from the direction of yujiji a caravan of 80 wogoha a tribe which occupies a tract of country on the southwestern side of the lake tanganyika we asked the news and we're told a white man had just arrived at yujiji herman yuema this news startled us all a white man we asked yes a white man they replied how is he dressed like the master they answered referring to me is he young or old he is old he has white hair on his face and is sick where has he come from from a very far country away beyond ogoha called manuema indeed and is he stopping at yujiji now yes we saw him about eight days ago do you think he will stop there until we see him sigoo don't know was he ever at yujiji before yes he went away a long time ago hurrah this is livingston he must be livingston he can be no other but still he may be someone else someone from the west coast or perhaps he is baker no baker has no white hair on his face but we must now march quick lest he hears we are coming and runs away i addressed my men and asked them if they were willing to march to yujiji without a single halt and then promised them if they acceded to my wishes to dori to each man all answered in the affirmative almost as much rejoiced as i was myself but i was madly rejoiced intensely eager to resolve the burning question is it dr livingston god grant me patience but i do wish there was a railroad or at least horses in this country we sat out once from the banks of the malagarazi accompanied by two guides furnished us by yusenji the old man of the ferry who now that we had crossed showed himself more amiably disposed to us we arrived at the village of asinga sultan katalambula after a little over an hour's march across the saline plain but which as we advanced into the interior became fertile and productive november fourth started early with great caution maintaining deep silence the guide through sent forward one two hundred yards ahead of the other that we might be warned in time the first part of the march was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees which got thinner and thinner until it vanished all together and we had entered uh-huh a plain country villages were visible by the score among the tall bleach stocks of dura and maize sometimes three sometimes five ten or twenty beehive shaped hats formed a village the waha were evidently living in perfect security for not one village amongst them all was surrounded with the customary defense of an african village a narrow dry ditch formed the only boundary between uh-huh and yuvinza on entering uh-huh all danger from makumba vanished we halted at kawanga the chief of which lost no time in making us understand that he was the great matwar of kameni under the king and that he was a tribute gatherer for his kia majesty he declared that he was the only one in kameni an eastern division of uh-huh who could demand tribute and that it would be very satisfactory to him and a saving of trouble to ourselves if we settled his claim of 12 dodi of good cloth at once we did not think it the best way preceding knowing as we did the character of the native african so we at once proceeded to diminish this demand but after six hours hot argument the matwar only reduced it by two this claim was then settled upon the understanding that we should be allowed to travel through uh-huh as far as the ruseji river without being further mulked november fifth leaving kawanga early in the morning and continuing our march over the boundless plains which were bleached white by the hot equatorial sun we were marching westward full of pleasant anticipations that we were nearing the end of our troubles joyfully congratulating ourselves that within five days we should see that which i had come so far from civilization and through so many difficulties to see and we're about passing a cluster of villages with all the confidence which men possessed against whom no one had further claim or a word to say when i noticed two men darting from a group of natives who were watching us and running towards the head of the expedition with the object evidently of preventing further progress the caravan stopped and i walked forward to ascertain the cause from the two natives i was greeted politely by the two waha with the usual yambos and was then asked why does the white man pass the village of king of uh-huh without a salutation and a gift does not the white man know there lives a king in uh-huh to whom the wanguana and the Arabs pay something for rite of passage why we paid last night to the chief of kawanga who informed us that he was a man deputed by the king of uh-huh to collect the tool how much did you pay ten dodie of good cloth are you sure quite sure if you ask him he will tell you so well said one of the waha a fine handsome intelligent looking youth it is our duty to the king to halt you here until we find the truth of this will you walk to our village and rest yourselves under the shade of our trees until we can send messengers to kawanga no the sun is but an hour high and we have far to travel but in order to show you that we do not seek to pass through your country without doing that which is right we will rest where we now stand and we will send with your messengers two of our soldiers who will show you the man to whom we paid the cloth the messengers departed but in the meantime the handsome youth who turned out to be the nephew of the king whispered some order to a lad who immediately hastened away with the speed of an antelope to the cluster of villages which we had just passed the result of this errand as we saw in a short time was the approach of a body of warriors about fifty a number headed by a tall fine-looking man who was dressed in a crimson robe called joho two ends of which were tied in a knot over the left shoulder a new piece of american cheating was folded like a turban around his head and a large curved piece of polished ivory was suspended to his neck he and his people were all armed with spears and bows and arrows and their advance was marked with a deliberation that showed they felt confidence in any issue that might transpire we were halted on the eastern side of the palm boy stream near the village of lukoma in Kemeni uh-huh the gorgeously dressed chief was a remarkable man in appearance his face was oval in form high cheekbones eyes deeply sunk a prominent and bold forehead a fine nose and a well-cut mouth he was a tall figure and perfectly symmetrical when near to us he hailed me with the words yambo bana how do you do master in quite a cordial tone i replied cordially also yambo mutwa how do you do chief we myself and men interchange yambo's with his warriors and there was nothing in our first introduction to indicate that the meeting was of a hostile character the chief seated himself his hunches resting on his heels laying down his bows and arrows by the side his men did likewise i seated myself on a bale and each of my men sat down on their loads forming quite a semi-circle the waha slightly outnumbered my party but while they were only armed with bows and arrows spears and knob sticks we were armed with rifles muskets revolvers pistols and hatchets all were seated and deep silence was maintained by the assembly the great planes around us were as still in this bright noon as if they were deserted of all living creatures then the chief spoke i am mayan vu the great mutwa of kamei and am next to the king who lives yonder pointing to a large village some naked hills about 10 miles to the north i have come to talk with the white man it has always been the custom of the Arabs and the one guana to make a present to the king when they pass through his country does not the white man mean to pay the king's dues why does the white man halt in the road why will he not enter the village of locoma where there is food and shade where we can discuss this thing quietly does the white man mean to fight i know well he is stronger than we are his men have guns and the waha have but bows and arrows and spears but uh-huh is large and our villages are many let him look around him everywhere all is uh-huh and our country extends much farther than he can see or walk in a day the king of uh-huh is strong yet he wishes friendship only with the white man would the white man have war or peace a deep memory of a saint followed the speech of my anbu from his people and disapprobation blended with a certain uneasiness from my men went about replying the words of general sherman which i heard him utter to the chiefs of the arabahos and the shayans at north plat in 1867 came to my mind and something of their spirit i embodied in my reply to manbu matwar of kimeni myanbu the great matwar asked me if i have come for war when did manbu ever hear a white man warring against black man myanbu must understand that the white men are different from the black white men do not leave their country to fight the black people neither do they come here to buy ivory or slaves they come to make friends with black people they come to search for rivers and lakes and mountains they come to discover what countries what peoples what rivers what lakes what forests what plains what mountains and hills are in your country to know the different animals that are in the land the black people that when they go back they may tell the white kings and men and children what they have seen and heard in the land so far from them the white people are different from the Arabs and the wanguana the white people know everything and are very strong when they fight the Arabs and the wanguana run away we have great guns which thunder and when they shoot the earth trembles we have guns which carry bullets farther than you can see even with these little things pointing to my revolvers i could kill 10 men quicker than you could count we are stronger than the waha mayan vu has spoken the truth yet we do not wish to fight i could kill mayan vu now yet i talked to him as a friend i wish to be a friend to mayan vu and to the black people will mayan vu say what i can do for him as these words were translated to him imperfectly i suppose but still intelligibly the face of the waha showed how well they appreciated them once or twice i thought i detected something like fear but my assertions that i desired peace and friendship with them soon obliterated such feelings mayan vu replied the white man tells me he is friendly why does he not come to our village why does he stop on the road the sun is hot mayan vu will not speak here anymore if the white man is a friend he will come to the village we must stop now it is noon you have broken our march we will go and camp in your village i said at the same time rising i'm pointing to the men to take up their loads we were compelled to camp there was no help for it the messengers had not returned from koanga having arrived in his village mayan vu would cast himself at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few trees within the bomba about 2 p.m the messengers returned saying it was true the chief of koanga had taken 10 cloths not however for the king of uh-huh but for himself mayan vu was evidently keen-witted and knew perfectly what he was about now roused himself and began to make miniature faggots of thin canes 10 in each faggot and shortly he presented 10 of these small bundles which together contained 100 to me saying each stick represented a cloth and the mount of the honga required by the king of uh-huh was 100 cloths nearly two bales recovering from our astonishment which was almost indescribable we offered 10 10 to the king of uh-huh impossible you do not stir from lakoma until you pass 100 exclaimed mayan vu in a significant manner i returned no answer but went to my hut which mayan vu had cleared for my use and bombay asmani mabruki and chapura were invited to come to me for consultation upon my asking them if we could not find our way through uh-huh they became terror-stricken and bombay in imploring accents asked me to think well what i was about to do because it was useless to enter on a war with a waha uh-huh is all a plain country we cannot hide anywhere every village will rise all about us and how can 45 men fight thousands of people they would kill us all in a few minutes and how would you ever reach you gg if you died think of it my dear master and do not throw your life away for a few rags of cloth well but bombay this is robbery shall we submit to be robbed shall we give this feral everything he asks he might as well ask me for all the cloth and all my guns without letting him see that we can fight i can kill mayan vu and his principal men myself and you can slay all those howlers out there without much trouble if mayan vu and his principal were dead we should not be troubled much and we could strike south to the malagarazi and go west to you gg no no dear master don't think of it for a moment if we were near the malagarazi we should come across lukindamira well then we will go north up that way uh-huh extends far and beyond uh-huh the whatotu well then say what we shall do we must do something but we must not be robbed pay mayan vu would he ask and let us go away from here this is the last place we shall have to pay and in four days we shall be in ugg did mayan vu tell you that this is the last time we should have to pay he did indeed what do you say as mani shall we fight or pay as mani's face were the usual smile but he replied i am afraid we must pay this is positively the last time i knew chao puera pay banner it is better to get along quietly in this country if we were strong enough they would pay us ah if we only had 200 guns how these waha would run what do you say mabruki ah master dim master it is very hard and these people are great robbers i would like to chop their heads off all so i would but you had better pay this is the last time and what are 100 cloths to you well then bombay and as mani go to mayan vu and offer him 20 if he will not take 20 give him 30 if he refuses 30 give him 40 then go up to 80 slowly make plenty of talk not one dodi more i swear to you i will shoot mayan vu if he demands more than 80 go and remember to be wise i will cut the matter short at 9 p.m 64 dodi were handed over to mayan vu for the king of uh-huh six dodi for himself and five dodi for his sub altogether 75 dodi a bail and a quarter no sooner had we paid than they began to fight amongst themselves over the booty and i was in hopes that the factions would proceed to battle that i might have good excuse for leaving them i'm plunging south to the jungle that i believe existed there by which means under its friendly cover we might strike west but no it was only a verbose war which pretended nothing more than a noisy clamour end of chapter 11 part two chapter 11 part three of how i found livingston this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org how i found livingston travels adventures and discoveries in central africa including four months residence with Dr Livingston by Sir Henry M Stanley chapter 11 part three through ukawendi uvenza and uh-huh to ujiji november sixth at dawn we were on the road very silent and sad our stock of cloth was much diminished we had nine bales left sufficient to have taken us to the atlantic ocean aided by the bees which were yet untouched if we practiced economy if i met many more like mean vu i had not enough to take me to ujiji and though we were said to be so near livingston seemed to me to be just as far as ever we crossed the palm buoy and then struck across a slowly undulating plane rising gradually to mountains on our right and on our left sinking towards the valley of the malagarazi which river was about 20 miles away villages rose to our view everywhere food was cheap milk was plentiful and the butter good after a four hours march we crossed the keningi river and entered the boma of kirihigi inhabited by several watusi and waha here we were told live the king of uh-huh's brother this announcement was anything but welcome and i began to suspect i had fallen into another hornet's nest we had not rested two hours before two wangwana entered my tent who were slaves of thani ben abdulla our dandified friend of unyanyembe these men came on the part of the king's brother to claim the hanga the king's brother demanded thirty doti half a bail merciful providence what shall i do we have been told by mean vu that the hanga of uh-huh was settled and now here is another demand for the king's brother it is the second time the lie has been told and we have twice been deceived we shall be deceived no more these two men informed us there were five more chiefs living but two hours from each other who would exact tribute or blackmail like those we had seen knowing this much i felt a certain calm it was far better to know the worst at once five more chiefs with their demands would assuredly ruin us in view of which what is to be done how am i to reach livingston without being beggard dismissing the man i called bombay and told him to assist as money in settling the hanga as cheaply as possible i then lit my pipe put on the cap of consideration and began to think within half an hour i had made a plan which was to be attempted to be put in execution that very night i summoned the two slaves of thani ben abdulla after the hanga had been settled to everybody's satisfaction though the profoundest casuastries and diplomatic arguments failed to reduce it lower than twenty six dodie and began asking them about the possibility of evading the tribute taking waha ahead this rather astonished them at first and they declared it to be impossible but finally after being pressed they replied that one of their numbers should guide us at midnight or a little after into the jungle which grew on the frontiers of the uha and uvinza by keeping a direct west course through this jungle until we came to ukuranga we might be enabled we were told to travel through uha without further trouble if i were willing to pay the guy 12 dodie and if i were able to impose silence on my people while passing through the sleeping village the guide was positive i could reach ujiji without paying another dodie it is needless to add that i accepted the proffered assistance at such a price with joy but there was much to be done provisions were to be purchased sufficient to last four days for the tramp through the jungle and men were at once sent with cloth to purchase grain at any price fortune favored us for before eight p.m. we had enough for six days november seventh i did not go to sleep at all last night but a little after midnight as the moon was beginning to show itself by gangs of four the men stole quietly out of the village and by three a.m. the entire expedition was outside the bulma and not the slightest alarm had been made after a signal to the new guide the expedition began to move in a southern direction along the right bank of the kenegi river after an hour's march in this direction we struck west across the grassy plain and maintained it despite the obstacles we encountered which were sore enough to naked men the bright moon lighted our path dark clouds now and then cast immense long shadows over the deserted and silent plains and the moon beams were almost obscured and at such times our position seemed awful till the moon rising in clouded majesty at length a parent queen unveiled her peerless light and o'er the dark her silver mantle threw bravely toiled the men without murmur though their legs were bleeding from the cruel grass ambrosial mourn at last appeared with all its beautiful and lovely features heaven was born anew to us with comforting omens and cheery promise the men though fatigued at the unusual travel sped forward with quicker pace as daylight broke until at eight a.m. we sighted the swift rasoogie river when a halt was ordered in a clump of jungle near it for breakfast and rest both banks of the river were alive with buffalo eland and antelope but though the site was very tempting we did not fire because we dared not the report of a gun would have alarmed the whole country i preferred my coffee and the contentment which my mind experienced at our success an hour after we had rested some natives carrying salt from the malagarazi were seen coming up the right bank of the river when a breast of our hiding place they detected us and dropping their salt bags they took to their heels at once shouting as they ran to alarms and villages that appeared about four miles north of us the men were immediately ordered to take up their loads and in a few minutes we had crossed the rasoogie and we're making direct for a bamboo jungle that appeared in our front on on we kept steadily until at one p.m. we sighted the little lake of misuña as worried as possible with our nine hours march lake misuña is one of the many circular basins found in this part of uha there was quite a group of them the more correct term of these lakes would be immense pools in the msika season lake misuña must extend to three or four miles in length by two in breadth it swarms with hippopotamia and its shores abound with noble game we were very quiet as may be imagined in our bivouac neither tent nor hunt was raised nor was fire kindled so that in case of pursuit we could move off without delay i kept my winchester rifle the gift of my friend mr. morris and a rare gift it was for such a crisis with its magazine full and 200 cartridges in a bag slung over my shoulders each soldier's gun was also ready and loaded and we retired to sleep our fatigues off with a feeling of perfect security november 8th long before dawn appeared we were on the march and as daylight broke we emerged from the bamboo jungle and struck across the naked plane of uha once more passing several large pools by the way far embracing prospects of undulating country with here and there a characteristic clump of trees relieving the general nudity of the whole hour after hour with toiled on across the rolling land waves the sun shining with all its wanted african fervor but with its heat slightly tempered by the welcome breezes which came laden with the fragrance of young grass and perfume of strange flowers of various hues that fleck the otherwise pale green sheet which extended so far around us we arrived at the rugafu river not the ukawindi rugafu but the northern stream of that name a tributary of the malagarazi it was a broad shallow stream and sluggish with an almost imperceptible flow southwest while we halted in the deep shade afforded by a dense clump of jungle close to the right bank resting a while before continuing our journey i distinctly heard a sound as a distant thunder in the west upon asking if it were thunder i was told it was kabogo what is that it is a great mountain on the other side of the tanganika full of deep holes into which the water rolls and when there is a wind on the tanganika there is a sound like mbuha thunder many boats have been lost there and it is accustomed with Arabs and natives to throw cloth marikani and kaniki and especially white marikani beads to appease the melungu god of the lake those who throw beads generally get passed without trouble but those who do not throw beads into the lake get lost and are drowned oh it is a dreadful place this story was told me by the ever-smiling guide as mani and was corroborated by other former mariners of the lake whom i had with me at the least this place where we halted for dinner on the banks of the rugafu river is 18 and a half hours or 46 miles from ujiji and as kabogo is said to be near uguha it must be over 60 miles from ujiji therefore the sound of the thundering surf which is said to roll into the caves of kabogo was heard by us at a distance of over 100 miles away from them continuing our journey for three hours longer through thin forest over extensive beds of primitive rock among fields of large boulders thickly strewn about passing by numerous herds of buffalo giraffe and zebra over a quaking quagmire which resembled peat we arrived at the small stream of senuzi to a camping place only a mile removed from a large settlement of hua ha but we were buried in the depths of a great forest no road was in the vicinity no noise was made deep silence was preserved nor were fires lit we might therefore rest tranquilly secure certain that we should not be disturbed tomorrow morning the keringosi has promised we shall be out of uha and if we travel on to neyam taga and ukuranga the same day the next day would see us in ujiji patience my soul a few hours more then the end of all this will be known i shall be face to face with that white man with the white hairs on his face whoever he is november ninth two hours before dawn we left our camp on the senuzi river and struck through the forest in a north by west direction having muzzled our goats previously lest by their bleeding they might betray us this was a mistake which might have ended tragically for just as the eastern sky began to assume a pale grayish tent we emerged from the jungle on the high road the guide thought we had passed uha and set up a shout which was echoed by every member of the caravan and marched onward with new vigor and increased energy when plump we came to the outskirts of a village the inhabitants of which were beginning to stir silence was called for at once and the expedition haunted immediately i walked forward to the front to advise with the guide he did not know what to do there was no time to consider so i ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the road and the guide to push on boldly through the village the chickens also had their throats cut after which the expedition resumed the march quickly and silently led by the guide who had orders to plunge into the jungle south of the road i stayed until the last man had disappeared then after preparing my winchester brought up the rear followed by my gunbearers with their stock of ammunition as we were about disappearing beyond the last hut a man darted out of his hut and uttered an exclamation of alarm and loud voices were heard as if in dispute but in a short time we were in the depths of the jungle hurrying away from the road in a southern direction and edging slightly westward once i thought we were pursued and i halted behind a tree to check our foes if they persisted in following us but a few minutes proved to me that we were not pursued after half an hour's march we again turned our faces westward it was broad daylight now and our eyes were delighted with most picturesque and sequester little valleys where wild fruit trees grew and rare flowers blossomed and tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles where all was bright and beautiful until finally wading through one pretty pure streamlet who soft murmurs we took for a gentle welcome we passed the boundary of wicket uha and had entered ukuranga an event that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy presently we found the smooth road and we tried gaily with elastic steps with limbs quickened for the march which we all knew to be drawing near its end what cared we now for the difficulties we had encountered for the rough and cruel forest for the thorny thickets and hurtful grass for the jangle of all savaged them of which we had been the joyless audience tomorrow i the great day draws nigh and we may well laugh and sing while in this triumphant mood we have been sorely tried we have been angry with each other when vexed by troubles but we forget all these now and there is no face but is radiant with the happiness we have all deserved we made a short halt at noon for rest and refreshment i was shown the hills from which the tanga nika could be seen which founded the valley of the liu shown the east i could not contain myself at the site of them even with this short halt i was restless and unsatisfied we resumed the march again i spurred my men forward with the promise that tomorrow should see their reward we were inside of the villages of the wakaranga the people caught sight of us and manifested considerable excitement i sent men ahead to reassure them and they came forward to greet us this was so new and welcome to us so different from the turbulent wavenza and the blackmailers of uha that we were melted but we had no time to loiter by the way to indulge our joy i was impelled onward by almost uncontrollable feelings i wish to resolve my doubts and fears was he still there had he heard of my coming would he fly how beautiful ucaranga appears the green hills are crowned by clusters of straw-thatched cones the hills rise and fall here denuded and cultivated there in pastridge here timbered yonder swarming with huts the country has somewhat the aspect of mariland we crossed the mkuti a glorious little river we ascend the opposite bank and strive through the forest like men who have done a deed of which they may be proud we have already traveled nine hours and the sun is sinking rapidly towards the west yet apparently we are not fatigued we reach the outskirts of neyam taga and we hear drums beat the people are flying into the woods they desert their villages for they take us to be rugaruga the forest thieves of marambo who after conquering the arabs of unyan yinbi are coming to fight the arabs of ujiji even the king flies from his village and every man woman and child terror-stricken follows him we enter into it and quietly take possession finally the word is brooded out that we are wangwana from unyan yinbi well then is marambo dead they ask no we answer well how did you come to ucaranga by way of ukanango ukawendi and uha oh highly then they laugh heartily at their fright and begin to make excuses the king is introduced to me and he says he had only gone to the woods in order to attack us again he meant to have come back and killed us all if we had been rugaruga but then we know the poor king was terribly frightened and would never have dared to return had we been rugaruga not he we are not however in a mood to quarrel with him about an idiomatic phrase peculiar to him but rather take him by the hand and shake it well and say we are so very glad to see him and he shares in our pleasure and immediately three of the fattest sheep pots of beer flour and honey are brought to us as a gift and i make him happier still with two of the finest cloths i have in my bales and thus a friendly pact is entered into between us while i write my diary of this day's proceedings i tell my servant to lay out my new flannel suit to oil my boots to chalk my helmet and fold a new puggery around it that i may make as presentable an appearance as possible before the white man with the gray beard and before the Arabs of ujiji for the clothes i have worn through the jungle and forest are in tatters good night only let one day come again and we shall see what we shall see and of chapter 11 part 3 chapter 11 part 4 of how i found Livingston this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org read by James Gladwin Somerset September 29 2007 how i found Livingston travels adventures and discoveries in central Africa including four months residence with Dr Livingston by Sir Henry M Stanley chapter 11 part 4 through Ucawendi Uvinza and Uha to Ujiji November 10th Friday the 236th day from Bagamoyo on the sea and the 51st day from Unyani Embi general direction to Ujiji west by south time of March six hours it is a happy glorious morning the air is fresh and cool the sky lovingly smiles on the earth and her children the deep woods are crowned in bright vernal leafage the water of the umkuti rushing under the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks seems to challenge us for the race to Ujiji with its continuous brawl we are all outside the village cane fence every man of us looking as spruce as neat and happy as when we embarked on the dows at Zanzibar which seems to us to have been ages ago we have witnessed and experienced so much forward and the light-hearted braves stride away at a rate which must soon bring us within view of Ujiji we ascend a hill overgrown with bamboo descend into a ravine through which dashes an impetuous little torrent ascend another short hill then along a smooth footpath running across the slope of a long ridge we push on as only eager light-hearted men can do in two hours i am warned to prepare for a view of the tanga nika for from the top of a steep mountain the kirangosi says i can see it i almost vent the feeling of my heart in cries but wait we must behold it first and we press forward and up the hill breathlessly lest the grand scene hasten away we are at last on the summit ah not yet can it be seen a little further on just yonder oh there it is a silvery gleam i merely catch sight of it between the trees and but here it is at last true the tanga nika and there are the blue black mountains of ugoma and ukuramba an immense broad sheet a burnished bed of silver lucid canopy of blue above lofty mountains are its valances palm forests form its fringes the tanga nika hurrah and the men respond to the exultant cry of the anglo-saxon with the lungs of stentors and the great forests and the hills seem to share in our triumph was this the place where burton and speak stood bombe when they saw the lake first i don't remember master it was somewhere about here i think poor fellows the one was half paralyzed the other half blind said sir rogerick murchison when he described burton and speaks arrival in view of the tanga nika and i well i am so happy that were i quite paralyzed and blinded i think that at this supreme moment i could take up my bed and walk and all blindness would cease at once fortunately however i am quite well i have not suffered a day sickness since the day i left unyani mb how much would sure be willing to give to be in my place now who is happiest he reveling in the luxuries of unyani mb or i standing on the summit of this mountain looking down with glad eyes and proud heart on the tanga nika we are descending the western slope of the mountain with the valley of the liush before us something like an hour before noon we have gained the thick matete break which grows on both banks of the river we wade through the clear stream arrive on the other side emerge out of the break and the gardens of the wajiji are around us a perfect marvel of vegetable wealth details escape my hasty and partial observation i am almost overpowered with my own emotions i notice the graceful palms neat plots green with vegetable plants and small villages surrounded with frail fences of the matete cane we push on rapidly lest the news of our coming might reach the people of ujiji before we come in sight and are ready for them we halt at a little brook then ascend the long slope of a naked ridge the very last of the myriads we have crossed this alone prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness we arrive at the summit travel across and arrive at its western rim and pause reader the port of ujiji is below us embowered in the palms only 500 yards from us at this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we have marched or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended and descended or of the many forests we have traversed or of the jungles and thickets that annoyed us or of the fervent salt plains that blistered our feet or of the hot suns that scorched us nor of the dangers and difficulties now happily surmounted at last the sublime hour has arrived our dreams our hopes and anticipations are now about to be realized our hearts and our feelings are with our eyes as we peer into the palms and try to make out in which hut or house lives the white man with the gray beard we heard about when we were at the Maligarazzi unfurl the flags and load your guns we will master we will master respond the men eagerly one two three fire a volley from nearly 50 guns roars like a salute from a battery of artillery we shall note its effect presently on the peaceful-looking village below now Kyoan Gozi hold the white man's flag up high and let the Zanzibar flag bring up the rear and you men keep close together and keep firing until we halt in the marketplace or before the white man's house you have said to me often that you could smell the fish of the Tanganika i can smell the fish of the Tanganika now there are fish and beer and a long rest waiting for you march before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the effect desired we had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a caravan was coming and the people were witnessed rushing up in hundreds to meet us the mere sight of the flags informed everyone immediately that we were a caravan but the american flag born aloft by gigantic asmani whose face was one vast smile on this day rather staggered them at first however many of the people who now approached us remembered the flag they had seen it float above the american consulate and from the masthead of many a ship in the harbour of zanzibar and they were soon heard welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of Bindera Kisungu a white man's flag Bindera Merikani the american flag then we were surrounded by them by Wajiji Wanamwezi Wangwana Wawundi Waguha Wabanwema and Arabs and were almost deafened with the shouts of YAMBO YAMBO BANA YAMBO BANA YAMBO BANA to all and each of my men the welcome was given we were now about 300 yards from the village of Ujiji and the crowds are dense about me suddenly I hear a voice on my right say good morning sir startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of black people I turn sharply around in search of the man and see him at my side with the blackest of faces but animated and joyous a man dressed in a long white shirt with a turban of american sheeting around his woolly head and I ask who the mischief are you I am Susie the servant of Dr Livingston said he smiling and showing a gleaming row of teeth what is Dr Livingston here yes sir in this village yes sir are you sure sure sure sir why I leave him just now good morning sir said another voice hello said I is this another one yes sir well what's your name my name is Chuma sir what are you Chuma the friend of Wekutini yes sir and is the doctor well not very well sir where has he been so long in Manwayma now you Susie run and tell the doctor I am coming yes sir and off he darted like a madman but by this time we were within 200 yards of the village and the multitude was getting denser and almost preventing our march flags and streamers were out Arabs and Wangwana were pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us for according to their account we belonged to them but the great wonder of all was how did you come from Unyani Embi soon Susie came running back and asked me my name he had told the doctor I was coming but the doctor was too surprised to believe him and when the doctor asked him my name Susie was rather staggered but during Susie's absence the news had been conveyed to the doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming whose guns were firing and whose flag could be seen and the great Arab magnets of Ujiji Mohammed bin Sali Said bin Majid Abid bin Suleyman Mohammed bin Garib and others had gathered together before the doctor's house and the doctor had come out from his veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival in the meantime the head of the expedition had halted and the Kirangusi was out of the ranks holding his flag aloft and Selim said to me I see the doctor sir oh what an old man he has got a white beard and I what would I not have given for a bit of friendly wilderness where unseen I might vent my joy in some mad freak such as idiotically biting my hand turning a somersault or slashing at trees in order to allay those exciting feelings that were well nigh uncontrollable my heart beats fast but I must not let my face betray my emotions lest it shall detract from the dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances so I did that which I thought was most dignified I pushed back the crowds and passing from the rear walked down a living avenue of people until I came in front of the semicircle of arabs before which stood the white man with the gray beard as I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale that he looked wearied and won that he had gray whiskers and moustache that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red ground rounded and that he had on a red sleeved waistcoat and a pair of gray tweed trousers I would have run to him only I was a coward in the presence of such a mob would have embraced him but that I did not know how he would receive me so I did what moral cowardice and false pride suggested was the best thing walked deliberately to him took off my hat and said Dr Livingston I presume yes said he with a kind cordial smile lifting his cap slightly I replaced my hat on my head and he replaced his cap and we both grasped hands I then said aloud I thank god doctor I have been permitted to see you he answered I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you I turned to the arabs took off my hat to them in response to the saluting chorus of yambos I received and the doctor introduced them to me by name then oblivious of the men who shared with me my dangers we Livingston and I turned our faces towards his house he pointed to the veranda or rather mud platform under the broad overhanging eaves he pointed to his own particular seat which I saw his age and experience in Africa had suggested namely a straw mat with a goat skin over it and another skin nailed against the wall to protect his back from contact with the cold mud I protested against taking this seat which so much more befitted him than I but the doctor would not yield I must take it we were seated the doctor and I with our backs to the wall the Arabs took seats on our left more than a thousand natives were in our front filling the whole square densely indulging their curiosity and discussing the fact of two white men meeting at Ujiji one just come from Manuema in the west the other from Un Ani Embi in the east conversation began what about I declare I have forgotten oh we mutually asked questions of one another such as how did you come here and where have you been all this long time the world has believed you to be dead yes that was the way it began but whatever the doctor informed me and that which I communicated to him I cannot correctly report for I find myself gazing at him conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at whose side I now sat in central Africa every hair of his head and beard every wrinkle of his face the oneness of his features and the slightly weird look he wore were all imparting intelligence to me the knowledge I craved for so much ever since I heard the words take what you want but find Livingston what I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me and unvarnished truth I was listening and reading at the same time what did these dumb witnesses relate to me oh reader had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji how eloquently could be told the nature of this man's work had you been there but to see and hear his lips gave me the details lips that never lie I cannot repeat what he said I was too much engrossed to take my notebook out and begin to stenograph his story he had so much to say that he began at the end seemingly oblivious of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for but his account was oozing out it was growing fast into grand proportions into a most marvelous history of deeds the Arabs rose up with a delicacy I approved as if they intuitively knew that we ought to be left to ourselves I sent Bombay with them to give them the news that they also wanted so much to know about the affairs at Unyani Embi Said bin Majid was the father of the gallant young man who I saw at Masangi and who fought with me at Zimbizu and who soon afterwards was killed by Marambo's Ruga Ruga in the forest of Willyankuru and knowing that I had been there he earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight but they had all friends at Unyani Embi and it was but natural that they should be anxious to hear of what concerned them after giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of the men of the expedition I called Kaif Halak or how do you do and introduced him to Dr Livingston as one of the soldiers in charge of certain goods left at Unyani Embi whom I had compelled to accompany me to Ujiji that he might deliver in person to his master the letterbag with which he had been entrusted this was that famous letterbag marked November the first 1870 which was now delivered into the doctor's hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar how long I wonder had it remained at Unyani Embi had I not been dispatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveler the doctor kept the letterbag on his knee then presently opened it looked at the letters contained there and read one or two of his children's letters his face in the meanwhile lighting up he asked me to tell him the news no doctor said I read your letters first which I'm sure you must be impatient to read ah said he I have waited years for letters and I have been taught patience I can surely afford to wait a few hours longer no tell me the general news how is the world getting along you probably know much already do you know that the Suez Canal is a fact is opened and a regular trade carried on between Europe and India through it I did not hear about the opening of it well that is grand news what else shortly I found myself enacting the part of an annual periodical to him there was no need of exaggeration of any penny-aligned news or of any sensationalism the world had witnessed and experienced much the last few years the pacific railroad had been completed 1869 grant had been elected president of the United States Egypt had been flooded with savans the Cretan rebellion had terminated 1866 to 1868 a Spanish revolution had driven Isabella from the throne of Spain and a regent had been appointed general prim was assassinated a castellar had electrified Europe with his advanced ideas upon the liberty of worship Russia had humbled Denmark and annexed Shrewswick-Holstein 1864 and her armies were now around Paris the man of destiny was a prisoner at Wilhelms Hoey the queen of fashion and the empress of the French was a fugitive and the child born in the purple had lost forever the imperial crown intended for his head the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished by the Prussians Bismarck and von Moltke and France the proud empire was humbled to the dust what could a man have exaggerated of these facts what a budget of news it was to one who had emerged from the depths of the primeval forests of Manwayma the reflection of the dazzling light of civilization was cast on him while Livingston was thus listening in wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history ever repeated how the puny deeds of barbarism paled before these who could tell under what new phases of uneasy life Europe was laboring even then while we two of her lonely children rehearsed the tale of her late woes and glories more worthily perhaps had the tongue of a lyric demodocus recounted them but in the absence of the poet the newspaper correspondent performed his part as well and truthfully as he could not long after the Arabs had departed a dishful of hot hashed meat cakes was sent to us by Syed bin Majid and a curried chicken was received from Muhammad bin Salih and Moeni Karee sent a dishful of stewed goat meat and rice and thus presence of food came in succession and as fast as they were brought we set to i had a healthy stubborn digestion the exercise i had taken had put it in prime order but Livingston he had been complaining that he had no appetite that his stomach refused everything but a cup of tea now and then he ate also ate like a vigorous hungry man and as he vied with me and demolishing the pancakes he kept repeating you have brought me a new life you have brought me a new life oh by George i said i've forgotten something hasten Salim and bring that bottle you know which and bring me the silver goblets i brought this bottle on purpose for this event which i hoped would come to pass though often it seemed useless to expect it Salim knew where the bottle was and he soon returned with it a bottle of sileri champagne and handing the doctor a silver goblet brimful of the exhilarating wine and pouring a small quantity into my own i said dr. Livingston to your very good health sir and to yours he responded smilingly and the champagne i had treasured for this happy meeting was drunk with hearty good wishes to each other but we kept on talking and talking and prepared food was being brought to us all that afternoon and we kept on eating each time it was brought until i had eaten even two repletion and the doctor was obliged to confess that he had eaten enough still Halima the female cook of the doctor's establishment was in a state of the greatest excitement she had been protruding her head out of the cookhouse to make sure that there really were two white men sitting down at the veranda when there used to be only one who would not because he could not eat anything and she had been considerably exercised in her mind about this fact she was afraid the doctor did not properly appreciate her culinary abilities but now she was amazed at the extraordinary quantity of food eaten and she was in a state of delightful excitement we could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume of clatter to the wandering crowds who halted before the kitchen to hear the current of news with which she edified them poor faithful soul while we listened to the noise of her furious gossip the doctor related her faithful services and the terrible anxiety she evinced when the guns first announced the arrival of another white man in Ujiji how she had been flying about in a state of the utmost excitement from the kitchen into his presence and out again into the square asking all sorts of questions how she was in despair at the scantiness of the general larder and treasury of the strange household how she was anxious to make up for that poverty by a grand appearance to make up a sort of barmy side feast to welcome the white man why said she is he not one of us does he not bring plenty of cloth and beads talk about the arabs who are they that they should be compared to white men arabs indeed the doctor and i conversed upon many things especially upon his own immediate troubles and his disappointments upon his arrival in ujiji when told that all his goods had been sold and he was reduced to poverty he had but 20 cloths also left of the stock he had deposited with a man called sherif the half-caste drunken tailor who was sent by the consul in charge of the goods besides which he had been suffering from an attack of dysentery and his condition was most deplorable he was but little improved on this day though he had eaten well and already began to feel stronger and better this day like all others though big with happiness to me at last was fading away while sitting with our faces looking to the east as livingston had been sitting for days preceding my arrival we noted the dark shadows which crept up above the grove of palms beyond the village and above the rampart of mountains which we had crossed that day now looming through the fast approaching darkness and we listened with our hearts full of gratitude to the great giver of good and dispenser of all happiness to the sonorous thunder of the surf of the tanganika and to the chorus which the night insects sang hours passed and we were still sitting there with our minds busy upon the day's remarkable events when i remembered that the traveler had not yet read his letters doctor i said you had better read your letters i will not keep you up any longer yes he answered it is getting late and i will go and read my friend's letters good night and god bless you good night my dear doctor and let me hope that your news will be such as you desire i have now related by means of my diary how i found livingston as recorded on the evening of that great day i have been averse to reduce it by process of excision and suppression into a mere cold narrative because by so doing i would be unable to record what feelings swayed each member of the expedition as well as myself during the days preceding the discovery of the lost traveler and more especially the day it was the good fortune of both livingston and myself to clasp each other's hands in the strong friendship which was born in that hour we thus strangely met the aged traveler though cruelly belied contrary to all previous expectation received me as a friend and the cordial warmth with which he accepted my greeting the courtesy with which he tended to me a shelter in his own house the simple candor of his conversation graced by unusual modesty of manner and meekness of spirit wrought in me such a violent reaction in his favor that when the parting good night was uttered i felt a momentary vague fear lest the fullness of joy which i experienced that evening would be diminished by some envious fate before the morrow's son should rise above uggie end of chapter 11 part 4