 We were in France, as of five minutes ago, we were doing a lecture. Lecture is about impressioning. Impressioning is opening locks. Hey, man, sit down and learn something. Not so much with lockpicks, as you're teaching. It's opening locks in a way that takes something getting used to. First, an introduction. I'm Jules Reijer, so I currently am also a member of the open organization. Well, that's the open organization of lockpickers. I'm also a member of Hack42, which is a hackerspace in the arts. A couple of months ago, I visited a tour during Europe, and they said it was the most awesome place in existence. And of course, I can only agree. Lockpicks and why we can't pick it or opening or whatever. So we'll start off at 101 level. This is what we call a lock. As you can see, guys, this figuration will look upside down. That's because this is not taken in North America. This is called a euro profile. That's the shape of the lock. And the keyway is mostly upside down, but the basic way the lock works is exactly the same. So if we look at this lock, we see a round shape, but if that turns, we consider it open. That's it. Schematically, it looks like this. This is a huge round thingy, and we need to get it turned. If we apply turning pressure on it, it doesn't. And if we take off the first layer, we see why it doesn't turn because there's blue bits in the way. So if we try to turn this with some luck, you can't. It can turn ever so slightly until this one is catch. That's it. And if we do push it down to the correct, then it will turn and then be considered open. I'm just explaining locks at the moment, and in a couple more slides we'll go further. So that was a one pinstack lock. That's quite easy. But normally there are more pinstacks. In this case there are five. And all these pins have to be on the correct level in order to open it. In real life, we have a special tool for that. That's called a key. So if you insert that key, the pins will align correctly on this level, and now it can turn. And even if it's off ever so slightly on one position, it won't turn. That one's too high, so it won't push all these pins at the correct level if you don't have a key. Well, in lock picking, because the problem is, if you push this one down, it won't stick there. Well, actually it will, because in the real world, we use crap like this. This is supposed to be a straight edge, which it clearly isn't. These pins are supposed to be a true cylinder, which they clearly aren't. Or these Korean, they really suck. Take a piece of metal, and it has to be exactly the same size as another piece of metal. Not gonna happen. You will have tolerances. Ever so slightly, maybe, if you machine it very good. But it will not be on the micron level exactly the same as the other one. So what that enables you to do is, if you start turning this lock, it's not six pieces, six blue bits that are preventing it from turning. It's one blue bit preventing it from turning first, because it's more to the left, fatter. As we looked at that one pin, if we push this one to the correct level at this... So there's tension, and if we push it down, it will turn ever so slightly. There will some luck, this one will stay on that latch. So then we can move on to the other pin stack, and tip by tip, we can open that lock. So that looks a bit like this. So you put turning tension on it, go in with the feeler, that's just the spring pressure, just the spring, just the spring. That one doesn't want to go down, so we push it down, until you hear or feel a click. And then that one stays. And then we repeat five times until it's an open lock. Okay, so that's how a lock works, that is how picking works. And so we use tolerances within your lock to open that. Different subjects, impressioning. Impressioning. It's not new, it's not outrageous, especially by secret service guys, because it's a great way to get into a door. Because you leave hardly any marks, and once you're done with your tech, you have a key, which you can give to other operators. So you need the lock geek to get in, and then you can give it to the IT tech to get in, because they have to do evil stuff to the firewalls, something like that. In a normal pentastic situation, or in a red team situation, or a blackback situation, your team had to consist of a lock picker and a tech, because somebody had to do the tech inside and somebody had to open the door. Well, once you have done this attack in a successful manner, you end up with a key. And everybody can operate a key, so you do not need that lock tech in your further on attacks. So that's good. The question is, how long can I be in front of your server room, or front door, or any important door that you care about, without being shot, detected, questioned, or dragged away? Is that two seconds? You're probably not that anal of your security that I'll be shot in two seconds, because that's going to be a problem. Be in front of your server room for a minute without getting arrested. If I can be in front of your server room for 10 minutes without getting arrested, you have other problems, so there should be some stuff about that. So if this shot is correct, then you should have a lock in your door that will, and suppose the break even point is five minutes. So you need to lock on the door that the average attacker, that you keep away the average attacker for about five minutes. But what if the attack is two seconds? Because I'm pretty sure I will not be questioned within two seconds. Because I just woke up a door all around the wrong door. I didn't go out. I will not be questioned within those two seconds. If I do those two seconds attacks twice a day for about a week, will that work? I think in most situations I will not be questioned, asked, shot, arrested, dragged off, whatever. Okay, let's play the situation. We start off with a lock. Same lock as before, but now you can see it's configured in the American way, so I'm so down for me. I'm going to put in a blank key. An uncapped key as they hang at your key copy in place. The key has to fit though, so you need to have the correct blank for that lock. So that's to get in. Well, as we saw before, there are bits preventing it from turning. But now there's a chunk of metal in the way, so instead of the room is preventing it from turning, it's directed. Start to turn this lock, ever so slightly, it will go a bit until the pins are preventing it from turning. So if I turn it to left or right, whatever, we'll see that this pin at the moment is binding, so it's stuck to the side. If we then wiggle that key up and down, at this position it will only be string pressure pushing at my blank key, right? And of course because there's metal in the way, it will turn the other way as well, which you can't do with lock picking because then all the pins will fall down, and now it doesn't because they're held up by the key. So I turn left, up and down, and this, that was the pin that stuck to the side, so if I move my key up and down, that will push into your key with quite some force, actually, if you turn hard enough. And with some lock, if I turn the other way, then it will push on another position as well. So if we do that, take the key out and examine it quite closely, you can see there and there, there's a slight mark on your key, a dent or a scratch on indentation or whatever. If you look closely on the proper lighting and maybe definitely some training and some magnification, you'll see that there's a mark there. What you do, and they look something about this, it takes some training and we'll try to visualize it with a microscope. Don't get your hopes up because sometimes that doesn't work, but we'll try to, we'll have visuals. What we do, where these spots are, we take off a bit of material, just ever so slightly. If you know the brand and make of the lock, you can go online and figure out what that exact increment should be. If you don't know what to make and lock is, what the brand and make of lock is, just take small steps, that's basically what happens, just ever slightly go down and down and down. This is not a working key, of course not. So we repeat that process, you go in, turn left, that's one binding, so that will place a mark there, if you go up and down, turn the other side, that one's binding, that will place a mark there. So we take it out, we examine it and we'll see marks in the valleys that we just created. They'll look a bit like that, so you have a valley that we created and there will be marks in those valleys, hopefully. So, valleys with marks in them. What do we do? We take off material. We repeat, we keep on doing this. Okay, but if we turn to the left, that's the first stage, we'll see that that one is already at the correct level. So that red piece of metal, well, it's commonly used, so this red piece is not preventing the lock from turning anymore. So for 20%, this is like it's open, basically. So if we turn to that side, or if we turn to the other side, this one's probably still be marking, but that one isn't. So with some luck, another one will mark. So now we see that there's a marking there, there's a marking there, and we keep on repeating this and there will be marks in several places. And in the end, you end up with a working key. This is the original that I didn't see at the moment, of course. It was done during the competition. But this one looks a bit weird because it's all round and stuff, but if you look at the important parts, that's the same, because the point in the middle of the valley, that's the one where your pins will interact with. So at that point, it needs to be the correct level. Okay, make sense? If you're any good to win prizes, now we're going to demo. See how that goes. Sorry, that's full screen-ish, yes. We'll do this later, that's okay. Okay, I'll start off with a blank key, which is the surface looks a bit like this. So it's a bit of a lunar landscape. A normal blank is thicker, but there's more metal to your key than there should be. So what I do, at the first level, that actually exists for this particular log, I do this in competitions, and within competitions, we know beforehand what to make a model of your log. That's about it. See that? I haven't touched the log yet, right? So if you look now, I've come up with this. So it's way smoother. If there's a mark of this smooth surface, I will see it. At the lunar surface we had before, if there's a mark extra, that's going to be hard. Was that already there? Okay, now first, put it in the log, tension on one side, wiggle it, other side, wiggle it. That's the whole attack. There's a bit more to get better marks, so we can see it on the video, but normally that should not be a guess. And I'm off. I'm no longer at the door. I move on to my van, whatever, take off site. Yeah, they're quite up. Okay, let's see if we can get... You see that? We have that all in a second. Try to get it in focus-ish. Come on. He has something, right? I have another one at position number... Where is it? Magnify. That's one. One and three. So at position one, take off some material, same for number three. Rinse and repeat. Position three has something. And again, number one. If you don't see anything, turn it a bit into the light. So... Am I focusing correctly? It's... This is that mark. See that? It's in the... So take material out there. If you're not sure about a mark, rinse and repeat this step, but you can't unfile. Let's start over again. That's the only possibility. That's number three again. Number four. Oops, sorry. Looks like number three. If you apply too much pressure, or a lot of pressure, then the marks will be perfect-ish, but there's, of course, a chance that your key might break. And when in training, you will have some breakage. I guarantee it. And with some training, your times will improve. And mind you, normal competition, first rounds take normally about half of the field opens. Last championship in Germany. Only one person open during that whole hour. So sometimes, well, you can't always be lucky. So keep on going back and forth to your lock. Not quite sure. Four and five. Okay, well, I just filed, so I can't... So that's... I'll try to. I see only one mark on number five. That one. Bear eyes, and I have magnification on hand. During competition, you see people with magnification helmet and lights and whatever. Whatever floats your boat. Yeah. I normally use a small, duelless vice, just a cheapo-cheapo that you get at the craft score. So with the humorless and light and the magnification thing. I use a grow bed number four. But we'll get into that later. But it needs to be quite a fine file, but not too fine, because then your surface will be too smooth, and if you put a light on it, it will blind you when you can't see anything anymore. Let's see how that goes. No idea. Of course, yes. The last time I turned it, it does turn, but it didn't turn very smooth. But it does now-ish. What happens is that I'm a bit off, force it to turn. The pins are forced into your key. So basically, it's the same technique as happened. You see, at this point, you see a whole chunk of metal is missing, because that pin was forced into it. That's basically the same that happens if I twist this, but all the other pins were on the correct level. There's only one pin left, so that's all that force is going in there. So now I have a working key, which I can of course give to the other operators who go in and do their dirty deeds at the site where I try to investigate. So we have a key. If you wanted to have more information about- Yes, please. Yes, understand. The gentleman suggests that you use a softer material as a key, basically, or use some softer material that you apply to the key. Some people have been experimenting with inserts in your key. It's messy, but it does work. What you can also do is get softer keys. So these are stop keys that are normally made from brass or something like that. You can get aluminum keys, which is a bit softer. You can get steel keys, which is way harder. Well, the fun part about steel is it's way harder. So the chances of your key breaking up are slimmed down considerably. But because the keys are that hard, they won't mark. And if you use a softer material key, it will mark like a mother, and it will break as well. So you need to have your optimum, and after extensive research, we came up with the stock stuff that's basically in the middle. So it's soft enough to actually give an impression and it's hard enough not to break. But you can fiddle out with different stuff and get inserts that are lead or whatever. Some people apply dye or tip-ex or whatever. I don't like to apply dyes on there because it gets you a lot messy. And after two or three turns, you go like, was this mark there or did I just make that? It kind of confuses the situation. But some people tend to like it. I'm just not one of those people. This dream book on Impressioning is written by Oliver Dietrichsen, who is a German safe cracker basically. And he basically went into hiding for about a couple of months and he wrote this book. This one is the German one, but there is an English translation. And it has all sorts of very nice pictures on it. And some of these, so you can actually see what's going on. You see the technique also works on dimple keys, because it's basically pins poking into your key. That's what normal pins are. And a dimple rod works on it as well. Also it's on the side. It's just more work, but once you get the hang of it, these are easy. Really easy. And it's fun. And it also has even pictures of the KB Naag Technische Spulf Labor, which is basically CSI in Germany. So when they, well, you see very up close pictures of what is actually going on. Most people, when they start Impressioning, they get the book, they get the beginner set, you can buy them here, get a proper file that starts. The hardest part in Impressioning that most people find is interpreting the marks. Because filing could, you can learn. Just file consistently and evenly and that'll work. Get your spacing right. So that's neat work, that'll work. But the only problem is, oh, interpreting your marks and applying enough pressure, and not being not too much as well. So to find that optimum, that's the problem. So what do you need for this opening technique? Well, you saw me using quite a lot of stuff. First you need a measuring device if you're in training. Because if you know your brands, like I said before, you can go online and get your technical sheet to figure out how much material actually to take away. I have a little caliper for that. You can get the slide version as well. What I did, I put markings on it for that particular brand, so I don't even have to read it. I just have to align my little pointy thing to the correct line. So that's to get you in training, to train your muscle memory, how hard to push out your files. Files, we need files. We bought a shitload of files and tried everything. And the common opinion what most people tend to like is a Swiss cut number four. And if we have to name a brand, that's probably going to be a little better. That's not a cheap file. That's no scoff money. But they're very good. And if you treat your files well, that's probably going to be the last file you're going to use. Because they'll last ages. So that's basically what we use. You need to hold your key. I had to hold your lock. So basically a vice. I use more photo super clamps. They're often the... well, basically movies. They use to hang lighting pictures at whatever. They're light. And they look cool. And of course, if I travel with this to TSA, I'm going to get a problem. And well, they weigh a lot. Also, you'll need a shitload of keys. Because you will break keys when you start trading. Because initially you go like, I don't see marks. Let's apply more pressure. Because if you apply more pressure, you'll get better marks. If you apply too much pressure, it'll break. You will break. Absolutely. You will break your keys. Which is not a problem. It's just a way of practicing. If you are practicing, if you never did a hundred meter with hurdles, if you start off with hurdles, you'll kick some hurdles. That's not a problem. That's part of the training. So to get that aim right, you will break a lot. And of course, you need keys that fit to your lock. This is L.O.E. Bay. You need to befriend your local locksmith. Because he'll sell you the locks and the keys. But you don't want to pay the premium price that they normally charge for a cutkey because that is going to be an expensive problem. And it doesn't have to be. You need some magnification. I use this when in the field. It's basically a mag light with an add-on. There's a light through it. And this used to be used by geologists to look at stones. So to look very closely, upper-close. And somebody basically cut an extra slit out of it and start selling it as an impression device. And it works. It's just an add-on on a tiny mag light. So that works. And when you're in competition, use this. Because then you can see the whole key. So custom-made fancy stuff like this. Neat idea. This is stupidly over-engineered and it basically doesn't work. But the idea is good. There's a bay here that you slip your key in. You can turn that. There's four buttons at the back. So you have white light, yellow light, UV light, whatever. And you can alternate it. And there's a magnification glass on the top. So if you're in the field, nobody sees you looking. So you're not creating a field of light. So it's only you, with your tiny mini-telephone, you can look at your lock. Neat idea. But barely operated. So build stuff like that. Also, you need a grip. Because the force we apply to your key, well, you need big hands if you would do that with your bare hands. Especially if you're in training, that's going to hurt. So to do it consistently, you need a grip. There are grips on the market, especially for this. This is a custom, this is an impressioning handle that's sold that way. If you want to go low budget, get a fries grip. That'll work. The only problem with fries grips that I find is if you're turning, you want to turn in the same line as your key. And if your fries grip does that, that's a weird way of turning. So you basically want to be in the same, in the same line as your key. And so this will work. Definitely. You can build your own or whatever. I had some custom grip made. This is just an aluminum bar with a slit in it, and two screws tapered it. And by now, I work with these custom cut grips that were made by Jort Knapp, which is a locksmith from the Netherlands. And he has a very good machine shop. He does sell them. Yeah, stuff like that. It depends how much money you want to spend. One very cheap low budget tool which is very useful is this. This is the core, the cylinder of the lock I wanted to open. So I get the same brand, same make, and I very cruelly, with a big file, I file down until I see these round shapes. What that enables me to do if I put a key in, if I'm halfway, so I'll take this, this sort of thing, put your key in. If you look, I don't have a picture of that, if you look from that way, you'll see the, you'll see that. You'll see the round spaces where the pins are supposed to be. And if you put your key in, then all the marks that make sense, made by the pins, they should be visible in the middle of that round space. So if you're looking for marks and there's crap all over the place, that looks like a mark. But it can be a mark because it's in the wrong space. So it must be something else. So this is very helpful while training to figure out, to ease away the panic, basically. So that works. Yeah, so you don't file off, but it's supposed to be there, so you go there. Another tool I use, which is also made by Jochenab, the same locksmith that I talked about, is the KGS tool. What it does, this is again the same cylinder, because all the games are done on the same brand of cylinder, so we know the spaces and stuff like that. And he took all the pins out and put nasty drill bits instead of those pins. And then he did some other stuff and if you turn it, this is your blank key as it comes out of the box with the lunar surface. And once you turn it, these drill bits they just hack into your key. So you know exactly where the pins would have been. And as I said, a blank that comes from the first cut would be a zero cut, which never happens in real life. So you start off by everything cutting it to the first possible cut. And I know where to cut. So I take off enough material to get to the first possible depth on these positions. Sorry? Yes, that's a lot of competition. As long as it's within your own time. So you start off with a key that you have nothing done to. You're allowed to put it in your hand with, that's it. And then the time starts and if you want to start wrapping or putting help lines or way lines or whatever, whatever you want to do. That's all allowed. If you want to be mobile, you can have a tiny, tiny little microscope on you with lighting and a tiny file. And that's it. That's all they, basically that's all you need. A grip, couple of blanks. So that's it. Basically that's it. Any more questions? If you want to do this, that's probably my I'll probably jump the fence. It's way easier. Any more questions? I guess that's a wrap then. Thank you very much.