 Hi, I'm Poppy and today we're going to explore how digital tech could solve some of the problems that people have when they make their own Clothes and hope to inspire people to make things that they don't normally make it's going to be based on things that Jan Jan and I have been experimenting with and she will show some of the examples as Members and ex-trustees of Bill Brighton make a space. We're interested in do it together as well as do it yourself So some of the tech tech will be more suitable for shared spaces and others are easily to use at home. I Realize we're talking to a technically advanced group So some of you may already know more about the tech than we do some of the stuff will be familiar and others will be completely new and hearing about the stuff in this context Mike spark ideas and collaboration and I'm going to show some cool tech and also how it could still be improved If you have knowledge or To share or questions to ask I'll be outside afterwards because we've been asked not to do the question answers in here So we're going to cover opportunities for designing clothes designing and cutting fabric knitting and sewing Habit ashery footwear and how to use digital tools to make traditional tools to make clothes by hand I'm starting with the design process because that's what researcher Amy twig a whole road It says is the area that most excites but mystifies People who make their own clothes. It doesn't need to be a mystery anymore. There are amazing tools to help us visualize ideas Clothes 3d is a garment simulation software that lets you see what clothes will look like before you make them You can make alterations without committing because you can just press undo if you don't like it It's easy to make changes and see what the effects will be in real time and there are stress and strain maps so that you can see that they Clothes will fit You can add zips seam allowances buttons and you can create the patterns that then could be laser cut straight onto fabric Or printed to make paper patterns Clothes is expensive and a proprietary software, but there is an open-source pattern Drafting software called the Valentina project which is developing 3d tools including in VR Here are some links for designing to For tools for designing clothes. The other two links are software that you can use for creating Knitting and sewing patterns based on your body measurements These kinds of software are even more useful if you have a 3d body scan of yourself because you can design clothes So it will fit you perfectly a group of us a bill Brighton make a space have made a 3d body scanner Using raspberry pi cameras and put the plans online and it's possible to replicate it for under a thousand pounds So with the idea that other makerspaces might want to make one too Arthur guy who did the programming is here at EMF and done it without him So when you buy fabric on the roll you often end up with small bits You don't use and the stock changes so you can't always buy more when you want it Now there are printing companies where you can order your own designs on a range of different fabrics from organza to oil cloth They will be they will print several designs on a sheet of fabric creating less waste This fabric was printed by Contrado and then there's lots of samples that are going to be handed around So you can see the different materials that you can be printed on I Found it really hard to know what to print when I had a completely blank canvas So the adobe capture app is great because it turns a photo into repeating pattern with some surprising results So the adobe capture app uses your camera on a smartphone and then you can change the aperture and it changes the pattern So this is a bath mat that creates a pattern like this and which could be used for making shower curtains that match and then this software is Designed from that flower And yeah We love the service that Contrado provides We love the service that Contrado provides we ordered it on a Thursday and it arrived on the Saturday But we also like the idea of being able to do it ourselves We would still use companies for the range and convenience and the ability to to print photo quality On fabric, but it would be great if in maker spaces We had rolls of white cotton fabric and a printer that we could just do it ourselves and experiment with So Bill Brighton has been donate donated a large format printer and we've been experimenting with printing on fabric Once we tricked the machine into accepting the fabric it worked well But the ink ran in the wash so quilting forums say there are ways to Treat the fabric before or after you print it and I'm also going to try color fast inks I'll share the results on my website We've also been given another large format printer for the maker space that we're starting in Devon So there might be other companies that are looking to get rid of their printers as they reach the end of their commercial life So Contrado are based in the UK And then spoon flower is based in the US and has lots of other functions where they can print on to patterns and There's lots of clothes that you can already print on to But then they shipped to the UK from Berlin There's also a company that sells the printers that are designed for printing on fabric And that would be really cool to have in maker spaces So cutting fabric is time consuming and can be stressful if you're a beginner or a perfectionist But accurately cut and cut pattern pieces make it so much easier to sew together So there could be an advantage to using a laser cutter or a vinyl cutter I've had some scary moments Cutting fabric with a laser cutter. It worked best with felt and worst with light fabric that quickly went up in flames Soaking the fabric in water before cutting helps prevent fire and work for everything we tried except for netting which melted and T-shirt material which curls up The laser cutter that we use doesn't have a fabric setting So we used papers this paper setting for lighter fabrics and the cardboard setting for denim and canvas It would be great if vinyl cutters could be adapted to use on fabric. They tend to be less expensive and To buy and maintain than laser cutters and have the potential to cut full-size pattern pieces that don't fit on most laser cutters We tried a Roland vinyl cutter, but it just rocked up the fabric So I got excited by the cricket the cricket maker which has a rotary blade, which is this blade But it's limited by size because you have to stick it onto a mat There's that is maximum size of 30 by 60 centimeters and We couldn't get ours to work. The customer service was so bad that we ended up sending it back We would love to know if it's possible to hack a rotary blade and use it on a much bigger better vinyl cutter There is a trend for industrial machines to get smaller for the fashion industry It means that instead of mass producing products in the factories They can make smaller quantities closer to the customers and for some items such as sweaters mass production Might be replaced with mass customization Adidas has tested a concept shop giving customers a full-body scan and then making Jumpers that fit people in four hours There's going to be more choice and brands are promoting this as empowering the customer to get involved in the design process But they're still as consumers rather than as makers The brands will be in control of how the machines are used if makers were free to use the tools and We could see innovative solutions to problems that businesses don't tackle smaller industrial machines and digital tools could make the way for Pave the way for textile machines in makerspaces that were previously too big or expensive There are already some small-scale knitting machines open knit started as an open-source project, but has been Developed further into proprietary product called knitter eight Knit it is an open-source machine that knits in the round and could be good for making scarves And old knitting machines are like old line printers Which some people hack with computers Sarah spence Sarah Spencer is giving a talk about that tomorrow Also embroidering machines are popular in fab labs and hacker spaces especially in America where they seem to be much cheaper So we bought a second-hand one from America and use it with a transformer if you have access to a embroidering machine turtle stitch is really cool software that's based on the programming language scratch and It turns your code into embroidery paths for your machine It's great for children and appeals to both boys and girls This is a demo of using Turtle stitch so you drag and drop bits of code together and this is going to make a circle So on the right hand side when we press the green button It will do it and then to make a flower. You just need to add a bit more code So the pen tool is not a pen, but that's what scratch calls it and so this is would actually be the needle There are lots of designs that you can download for free Which is a great way of seeing how code would Come together in different ways So this simulates what the embroidery machine would do and then this is the finished thing Using thread that changes color Digital technology can also be used to make the components that normally bought such as press studs and buttons Here are some 3d printed buttons that we made from These aren't 3d printed they're made from waste 3d printed PLA and then melted Last year I went to a workshop with someone called Julianne Carl who is on a mission to reinvent the zipper She says that although the zipper was invented in 1851. They're still patentant patented Which makes it too expensive for many garment makers in developing developing countries. So she's on a mission to help People come up with an alternative now on to shoes There's a lot of skill in making comfortable shoes, but it's getting easier with 3d printers Software and open-source designs I've been experimenting with 3d printing flip-flops which is now circulating From designs on fingers. They print quite well in a material called tpu Which is a flexible filament, but the souls are too slippery in wet conditions The P you stands for polyurethane, which is a common material in Shoemaking, but it's usually vulcanized, which is a heat treatment that helps shoes last longer and stop cracking I'm not sure if it works to do vulcanizing on a small scale So it'll be interesting to find out how long the shoes survive I think there's scope for for combining 3d printing with traditional processes and gluing on commercial souls Or finishing them at a shoe menders. I like the gen sole software Which? Takes a 3d scan of your foot and creates souls that fit perfectly Which is demonstrated by this video? So it sees where the foot and the sole combine and then we'll remove the material and It's free for non-commercial use We could also use 3d printing to make lasts of a shoe The last needs to be strong if you want to nail fabric or lever into it. So you could make it using polycarbonate Or alternatively shoes can be made by wrapping the last with Masking tape cutting it off and then making a 2d flat pattern So far the emphasis has been using digital tech to change the process of making clothes and shoes But we can also use technology to make tools for doing hand making Such as wall winders stitch markers and dressmakers dummies Most dressmakers dummies that you buy are expensive and limited in where you can adjust them to match your body people make their own by wrapping themselves in cling film and Covering it with duct masking tape, but it's also possible to make a cardboard version based on your own body scan Which is why we made the 3d body scanner out of Raspberry Pi cameras So this one that's passing around isn't me. It's based. It's a 60% model of the model in the clothes software and We made it small so that it's easier to transport But also people who tailors and dressmakers will make 50% Models to experiment with ideas The full-size one of myself, which is shown there is covered in mutton cloth, which is this stuff And it's straight and it stretches over the model without any seams And it makes it easier to stick pins into when you're designing clothes Here are some links for 3d printing buttons at the Instructible for making the PLA buttons and you can also Print press studs directly onto fabric by Paul which are being passed around now and which is done by Printing a couple of layers on the 3d printer pausing it and then putting the fabric on top and then continue printing We would like to see the tools like this the ones in this talk combined together to make a complete set that are easy to use This would help people start projects and actually finish them We would be able to design clothes in VR or on the computer add color and patterns Well on the same screen press print and the machine would print All the pattern pieces and accessories and automatically generate easy sewing or knitting patterns Based on what's already available. This doesn't seem too far-fetched I think the first step is raising awareness of the tools that are available because most of this stuff isn't shown on the gadget shows And providing opportunities for people to play and experiment with it Which is why we're setting up a tech and textile maker space at the community. We started in Totnes, Devon We are accumulating tools and For textiles that are great for maker spaces or that could be hacked to make them more suitable for members The idea is to explore the potential of the tools and share what we learn with other other maker spaces And we're also Going to have a mobile maker space with the equipment for tech and textiles to take to events building on our experiences of Doing 3d printing at Glastonbury Festival Before I go I'd like to thank you all for coming and to thank Jan, John and Arthur for all their help If you'd like to keep in touch or check out my website, I have cards to hand out the cards Which might be in my bag The cards are printed on fabric and then stuck onto card So the pattern is the is this pattern That I made from the flower picture that you saw earlier But the colors came out less vivid than in the on the computer screen My website hasn't been updated for a while whilst I've been doing my masters and a fab lab course on how to make almost anything But I've got loads more information and all of this that I'm going to put online soon in the next couple of weeks And I'm hoping to turn this talk into a magazine article. So if you've got any feedback, please let me know Thank you