 Hi everybody, my name is Megan Humphrey and I am the Executive Director of Hands and I want to welcome everybody to another in our Hands in the Dirt video series that we're doing. And so Charlie Nardosi, the famous Charlie Nardosi is going to be doing a chat about the garden sites and some of the issues and wonderful things happening in gardens right now. And we also do videos called Hands in the Kitchen. We've gone online with all of these this summer because of COVID. And so all of those will also be available. And so the mission of Hands is to get food to folks in need, people who are 50 and over. So we do Hands in the Kitchen, Hands in the Dirt and we have started a support buddies program as well. So we're trying to get food delivered and meals delivered to folks that are at home, especially these days. So and then we also do a big holiday dinner and we deliver meals and gift bags all over the county on Christmas Day, which many of you have been involved. So thank you for that. So today is happening thanks to Charlie and AARP Vermont and Hannaford. AARP and Hannaford have supplied some of the funding for these. So we're really lucky that we're able to bring these to people's living rooms right now. So if you need to head out or would like to find the videos in some other way, we will have them on our website at handsbt.org. And they'll also be available on Channel 17 for folks that don't have internet connection and on their website and that's cctv.org and we will pass those along as well. I'll put those in the chat box. So that's it. And once again, I wore my Peapod earrings. Local artist Marie Davis in honor of all the gardening that we're doing and all the harvesting we're doing right now, which there's a lot of that. So thanks so much, Charlie. We really appreciate it and take it away. All right. Thank you, Megan. It's great. It's a great program and I'm really happy to be involved in it. So as Megan was saying, we're going to talk about late summer gardening, everything from harvesting to planting to getting ready to wrap things up. I'm not quite ready to wrap up our garden set. So we may do another one of these in September to talk about putting the gardens to bed. And it's going to be a digital presentation that I'll be doing. And like I said, at the end, we can answer a few questions. So without further ado, let me share my screen. All right. So fall in the vegetable garden. You know, today really reminds us of fall. If you're watching this live with us, it's much cooler. The wind is blowing and kind of makes you think that, oh, yeah, summer is kind of going on the waiting side of things. And fall is going to be coming. So there's a lot of things to do in the garden, especially harvesting, as Megan mentioned, a lot of produce coming in. You're processing it, you're canning, you're freezing, you're giving it away, donating it to the local food shelf. All those great things are good things to do in the garden. But there's also some question people often have, and especially this time of year when we're thinking about those warm season crops, like melons and watermelons, tomatoes and peppers and eggplants. Some of them are pretty simple, as far as when they're harvest. You know, when a tomato is red, yeah, you pick it. It's time to eat it. But others like melons can be a little more problematic. So I wanted to go through a little bit about what to do with some of the crops you have out there now. How to harvest them and how to maximize that harvest. So with cantaloupes or any of those types of melons, the best thing to do when you're trying to harvest them and decide when should I harvest my melons is to take a look at the skin color. It'll go from this green color to more of a tannish color. And if it has netting on it, depending on the kind of melon you're growing, you may also see that netting kind of getting more pronounced. But the best thing to do is to simply go out into the garden when you see it looking like that color change, lift it up the melon and tug it gently. Now rip it out, but just give it a gentle tug. If it slips right off the vine, then it's ripe. And you can double check yourself by simply bringing the melon up to your nose and sniffing. You'll smell cantaloupe right there. Now watermelons are a little more problematic. I know that some people have had great success with watermelons in our climate. Others have struggled with them. Watermelons like a lot of heat, obviously, we've had a lot of heat this year, so it could be a good year for watermelons. But they also need some water, and you need to know when to harvest them. And it's not as simple as the cantaloupes. It's not as simple as a matter of picking it up and smelling it or tugging it, because that's not gonna tell you when a watermelon is ripe. There are some old home gardening tips out there where you can thump your watermelon. You can tell when it's a hollow thump, it's ripe, when it's a hard thump, it's not ripe. I never perfected that one, so I'm not confident with that. Another one some people use is, check the bottom side or the belly of the watermelon to see if it's turning yellow. That could be an indication that it's ripe inside. But the best thing to do, though, is to look at the vine of the watermelon close to where the fruit is. So in this photo I have up there, if you look up about, well, if you're looking like one or two o'clock, you'll see a little stem sticking out and little curly cues at the end of it. It's kind of right above the melon fruit. That is called a tendril. And that tendril is there, usually it clings to something. And it's an indicator for you to know melon ripeness. When that tendril turns brown, that means your watermelon is probably ripe. Now, if you're in doubt, I say wait a little bit, especially if you don't have animals or anything that might be disturbing that watermelon, because it's always better to have a watermelon that may be a little bit overripe than one that's underripe. There is nothing worse than really babying a watermelon in your garden and picking it too early to cut it open and all you see is kind of white or pinkish flesh and really nothing delicious. So be patient with your watermelons, but look for that tendril and wait for it to turn brown before you harvest them. Now winter squash is kind of easy in the sense that, well, it used to be kind of easy, I should say, in the sense that you would know it's ripe when it turns the color of that kind of squash. So a butternut, for example, would turn a tan color. Acorn would turn a green color. But that's changed a little bit with all these new varieties out there. For example, acorn squash could be dark green, it could be black, it could be white, depending upon the variety. So the first thing you need to know is what kind of variety am I growing? Is it a variety that will mature to that white color, black color, green color, tan color, red color, whatever it is, know what the bottom line color should be for that variety. Then what you wanna do with the winter squash is once they've turned that color, you can simply take your thumb and press your thumbnail on the skin. If you can break the skin easily, which you would be able to do with this winter squash, this is a butternut winter squash, then it's not ripe. But if you tried it on these butternut squashes, you'll see that it has a lot of resistance to it. That's a sign that that butternut squash is ripe, you can pick it, always leave a little bit of stem if you can on it, you can cure it, and then store it for the winter. So look for the color change and try that thumb technique to make sure that it's ripe. Now another thing you can be thinking about doing this time of year is with those warm season crops like the watermelons and the melons, and even the winter squashes is to be pinching them. And when I'm talking about pinching, I'm talking about pinching the growth point. So you can see there in the bottom right of your screen you have some flowers and that's the growth point of that vine that's this little cantaloupe vine that's growing here. I would cut that back to that one leaf that's already fully open, just cut it right off. Remove the flowers, remove that growth point. What it's going to do then is gonna send more energy into maturing those two little melons you see there that are starting to grow. And so anything that's already set on your vine will be able to mature faster because more energy is going to it than sending out new growth. Now, if this was later in the season, I'd say like mid-September, I would even pick off those two little cantaloupes there because they're never gonna make it before the frost comes in and the growing season gets too short for them to really grow well. But at this point, because we're still in August, I think in most places in the state, you can probably just pinch off the growth point, leave some of those little melons there and any new growth points that come out pinch those off as well. If you're in the mountains, northeast kingdom, places like that where it's colder, you might wanna start pinching off some of those small little melons at the same time. Now harvesting tomatoes is easy, right? You just look for a tomato that's turning the color that it should be, whether it be a yellow one, a pink one, a red one. These are a bunch from our garden this year that we just kind of laid out because they look beautiful. And the nice thing about tomatoes is all you probably know is that even if you get them when they're not quite fully mature, like some of the ones here I picked a little early, they will still ripen either on a patio or a deck or indoors. I've been actually doing more harvesting on the immature side, as long as it's not green, but it shows some color, you can harvest it. On the reason I've been doing that is because we have raccoons. They've been coming out and enjoying our heirloom tomatoes. I don't know, it's the first year it's ever happened. Maybe because it's been so dry, I'm not quite sure. So by harvesting a little bit early, they're not as tempted to go after a fruit that's not fully mature, we haven't had as much problems with them. So tomatoes are pretty easy to harvest, but with tomatoes you really have to deal with the same thing as you do with the cucurbits, the melons and the squashes, as far as pinching them. So as we're getting towards the end of August here, especially if you have some of those old heirlooms, those big fruited ones that I was just showing you, you wanna pinch the growth point. Pinch not only those suckers, which you should be pinching all along, but where it's growing and the new flowers that are setting so that you have a plant that looks more like that. So you can see the two ends I've pinched off. There's some nice fruit that have set there. There's probably enough time for those fruit to actually grow big enough and start turning red so that you can enjoy them and harvest them. But anything that has only just a flower or just a little baby fruit for those bigger varieties, probably not gonna have enough time yet. So now is the time to start pinching those plants. The one exception would be cherry tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes are very prolific. And as you know, they produce a ton of tomatoes very quickly. So if they're still flowering and you've seen baby little fruits on them, I would leave them for another few weeks or so into September. By the time you get to early mid-September, then you can start pinching those flowers as well to make sure that the fruits that set are gonna mature fast enough and turn that color that you need. But for the most part, cherry tomatoes are very fast and mature. Now, another thing to do besides just harvesting is to be planting. And this is a good time of year to plant greens and lettuces. And the reason is they like the cool weather that we're starting to get and they can do well with the shorter days. And with greens or lettuces, you can harvest them even if they're not totally mature. So that's a really nice thing to do. For lettuce, I would recommend if you have the capability of doing this, of starting some little baby seedlings, either in a window or a patio or a balcony or a porch area, somewhere where you can get them growing in little cells or little containers, kind of like what you did in the spring. Then transplant them out, like when they're about this size, into the garden. You certainly can plant seeds into the garden, but I think you're gonna get faster germination and less likelihood of insects or other creatures bothering those plants if you can start them as transplants first. It may take a week or two before they get big enough to put in the garden, but that's okay because they'll just jump up and start growing really quickly. I mean, even these little seedlings here, if you're just harvesting baby greens, you can harvest some of the outer leaves of these. So there's a lot of other greens that you can grow beside lettuce. Spinach is an easy one. And that one you can do from seed, planted in rows or in blocks in your garden. And that likes the cool weather. It'll germinate fast and it'll continue to grow. And I'll talk about overwintering spinach, a little bit when we come all the way around here, talking about greens. Arugula is a nice one to grow in the fall. If you grew it in the spring, you know it's a real tasty green. If you don't want it to be so biting with the flavor and you're kind of hot with its flavor, make sure you keep it really well watered and hope for cool temperatures. That's probably the best thing I could say because it doesn't like the heat. And when you get temperatures up in the 80s and 90s, that's when it starts really kind of getting that really hot flavor to the leaves. But if you do succession plantings of it, so planting a little bit now, maybe a week or two later, plant a little bit more. You know, arugula in 20, 30 days, you're eating some of those baby greens. So you can do that right into mid-September and still get a nice little crop. You can even plant some of the root crops, certainly like radishes, because they grow in about a month to forming a little ball. Make sure you thin them well so they have enough room to form their little radish. And even if you don't get to getting many radishes, radish roots, the tops are edible too. So you can cut the tops and throw them in a salad or saute them. They're really tasty. They have a flavor like, well, like radishes. That's what they taste like. So that's kind of a nice one to think of. And of course, kale. Now the way we grow kale is that we grow it in the spring and then we let it just kind of grow and grow all summer. And so you end up having a little bit of a kale forest. You know, big plants that are really mature. And what's nice about those is that they can take the cold temperatures. In fact, they taste better and they have better texture once they've been hit so by some cold nights in September. And that's the time that I start eating our kale. Up until now I haven't touched it. Just kind of let it grow. Make sure it keeps the cabbage rooms off of it. And it's done fine. But I don't really start eating it until probably September, October. And then we just eat it right into the fall, winter. It'll withstand a light frost. It's really a tasty vegetable to have in the garden. Sometimes it even over winters, depending on the snow cover. So just as a little recap, these are the kinds of things that you can be planting now. Because you can harvest them as baby plants. Even that kale I just showed you is a mature plant. You can sow the seeds and get little baby kales and just harvest them that way. But the arugula turnip greens is another one. Mescaline mix, for those who are not familiar, that's a mix of lettuces and Asian greens and a lot of different kinds of greens. So it's kind of got a nice flavor to it. A lot of a mix of color and textures and tastes. Beet greens, there's another good one. Like radishes, you can try to grow those. You may or may not get a big beet underneath them. Even a baby beet is nice, but it's nice because you'll get the beet greens. Swiss chard's a great one. The kale I mentioned and the lettuce. Now there's another crop you can plant this time of year, but not quite yet. Don't get too anxious, because I know you're getting excited and it's garlic. Garlic grows really well here. It's a real easy crop to grow. You wanna plant it though when you plant tulips and daffodils. So October is the time to plant garlic. Not yet. You don't wanna get it growing too soon. But what you can do is either go through the garlic bulbs that you already harvested this summer and choose the biggest bulbs with the biggest cloves to plant or get your stock locally from friends or from garden centers. Then once you have it, the day before you're gonna plant your garlic, you wanna break all those cloves apart just like they're doing here. Put them in a bowl and just leave them overnight. The reason you're doing that is that basil plate, the bottom of that garlic clove, is gonna form a scar. And that scar is gonna help it root a little bit faster. Then you wanna go out into your garden. Usually a raised bed is normally where I recommend people plant their garlic because the only thing I've ever seen that kills garlic plants is cold wet weather or cold wet soils in the spring. If you have a raised bed, it's gonna drain that water out so it's not gonna sit in that cold wet soil so long. So add some compost to the bed and plant your little cloves about six inches apart just below the soil line. So you wanna bury them but not too deep. And that's pretty much it. Remember though, every clove is going to be a garlic. I remember when I first planted garlic, I was very excited about it. Having a Italian heritage and eating a lot of garlic as a kid. So I planted 60 or 70 of those little cloves, not really realizing that each clove is gonna have six or seven. Each clove is gonna form a bulb with six or seven more cloves in it. So I got 60 or 70 bulbs out of this. The nice thing about garlic is that almost all of them survive. I rarely had it where some of them don't survive. So unlike other plants that may or may not make it, garlic seems pretty reliable. So plant as much as you're gonna need because if you have a lot of garlic in the house, it quite easily can go by pretty quickly within a couple of months or so if it's not stored properly. What we do for storage is we put it in the basement, we put it underneath a clay pot. The clay pot holds enough moisture around the garlic bulbs but lets it breathe a little bit and we've had good success holding it for a good six months or so that way. Then come fall or you can do it right after you planted in October. I usually wait till November. You get some hay, some straw, some chopped leaves. Just bury the bed. I've used this little contraption I put together with the Velcro straps and some pieces of wood wrapped around it just to kind of hold that organic matter in place during windy days. But all you're doing is protecting that garlic from freezing and thawing. And so if you do it in November or so, that's a good time to do it. Not that mice and voles will eat garlic but they will tunnel around in there if they think it might be a nice home. So that's why I usually wait till more closer to mid to end of November. Depending upon the weather. If we get a real cold snap, you don't want the ground to freeze so you wanna do it before then. Then you just leave it till next spring. You take off the mulch and then you would harvest it next summer. So let's talk also about some of the vegetables that as I would call it, you can hold them. So this may have more to do with planting for next year than what you can do this year but I just wanna run through some that are good vegetables for the fall. Leeks are really easy to grow. You transplant them when you do the onions in the spring and then like some of these other crops I mentioned, you just leave it. Just like the kale I was talking about. You know, just continue to grow all summer. We cover ours with a floating row cover because we have an insect called the leek moth which will devastate leeks. So this will block them off from laying the egg so I don't get the damage. But within a couple of weeks or so, the leek moth will be done for the season so I probably will take the covers off and just let the leeks stretch out a little bit. And you can just harvest those starting almost any time this fall and then harvest them right into the winter. I've literally gone out on a December or January day and harvested frozen leeks through them in a soup and they tasted great. So leeks are a good one to think about when you're thinking long season crop. Brussels sprouts are another one. If you're growing Brussels sprouts in your garden, you might wanna take a look at them because you should be seeing some of those sprouts at the bottom of the big stalk. As it goes up, of course, the sprouts get smaller and smaller. If you're not seeing those sprouts at the bottom, the thing you can do now or very soon is to top the plant. Just cut off the top of the plant. That just like cutting off those melon vines is gonna send all the energy down to make bigger and more sprouts. So that's a good thing to think about if you're not getting much sprouts. But if you have sprouts forming, don't worry too much about it. As you harvest from the bottom to the top, you can snap off those leaves, but there's no need to snap all of them off until you get to the point where it's gonna make it easier to harvest. So Brussels sprouts is another one. You plant in the spring, just like with the leeks and you kind of leave it there until this time of year. And again, like the leeks, I've harvested frozen Brussels sprouts and they tasted fine. The key is not to harvest them, put them in the refrigerator and let them thaw for a couple of days and they start looking a little funky. Carrots, if you have a nice carrot cropping, you wanna save some into the fall and winter, you can protect them by burying them in a hay or a mulch pile. So get some hay or straw or chopped leaves and put down a foot or two layer right over the carrot bed. It works best if you're growing carrots right in the ground and not on a raised bed. On a raised bed, they get too exposed and I haven't had good success getting our carrots to overwinter on our raised beds. It's just the cold kind of creeps in, I think, from all different angles and it freezes the soil. And once the soil freezes, that carrot, when it does thaw out, it's just gonna turn to mush. But it is something to play around with. If you have them in the ground, you wanna get them. It's kind of like holding them in a refrigerator outside. So if you have enough mulch, you can go out in December, January, February, move the mulch out, pull carrots out, put it back and you'll be all set. Beets are not as good at that but you can extend the season with your beets if you have a nice beet crop. Come October, November by putting that mulch on that I was talking about. The beets won't make it through the winter but they will make it at least until November, maybe to Thanksgiving or so. So you can go out, remove that mulch, pull those beets out and really enjoy them. Parsnips though, that's the kind of crop that really is hard to beat as far as winter tolerance. We've had parsnips in our raised beds without protection and they still made it through the winter. We pulled them out in April the next year and they tasted great. The thing about parsnips is if you eat them now they don't have much flavor to them. If you wait till like October, November then they have sweetened up because of those cold soil, the cold temperatures. It turns a lot of those carbohydrates into sugars and they're much tastier. And the same would be true if you let them go all the way into March or April. Earlier I talked about, excuse me, overwintering spinach and you can do that. So if you sow some spinach now in about a month or so if it starts looking more like this in your garden or maybe a little smaller, that's fine. By October, so you might have some nice spinach, baby spinach leaves and you can harvest it and enjoy it or you can leave some of it and cover it over with a floating row cover. Now there are different weights of floating row covers out there. There's a summer weight that's just good for insect pests to keep them off the plants. There's a regular weight which is good for like around freezing temperatures. Plants that you wanna make them extend a little bit more. Maybe you throw it over a basil plant or a pepper plant. And then there's the winter weight one and that's the one you really wanna use. That's the one I'm showing here in our garden. And that one you can't even see through it. It's really thick. It protects plants down to 25 degrees. So with your spinach crop, I would suggest getting some hoops, it could be wire hoops or PVC pipe hoops, kind of stretching them over the bed and then laying that winter weight row cover over the top of that and securing it with boards or stone. What it'll do is it'll keep a nice warm environment for the spinach in there. Now eventually it's gonna get cold enough that the ground might even freeze. But the nice thing about spinach is it can take it. It can take freezing temperatures and if it's protected a little bit by this row cover, you'll see come spring, like early, early spring, like by April or even late March, depending upon our winter, you can uncover that and see that the plants are starting to grow. And you get an early spinach crop. It's a real treat. I know some people have had success doing this on raised beds by just throwing like chopped leaves or hay or straw and not using the row covers. That potentially could work well too. The only downside is if it's a really wet kind of winter where it's thawing a lot and there's a lot of moisture in the soil, it couldn't rot out that spinach crop. You can also create cold frames. Here's some old ones that I had at my old house. And these are ones I created, I think for $30. I went to the salvage yard, got some lumber, got some PVC pipes, some white plastic, a few hinges and that was it. And what's nice about cold frames is you can extend the season in the spring by planting early or in the fall by holding plants later. Here's another version I did with window sashes and these are a bunch of greens I was growing. And you could do this so that you can have greens, again, right up until Thanksgiving time or so, especially if you do the winter hardier greens like the spinach and the arugula, just by keeping those sashes closed. I do have to remember with these cold frames, even in September and October on a cool day, if it's sunny out, it can get really hot in there. So you do need to vent them and ventilate them and make sure the air is flowing so you can't actually burn those little baby seedlings as they're coming up. And then I just wanna say a few words about some fall cleanup and how to kind of take the garden and kind of clean it up for fall, get it ready for next season. And we can talk more about this next time, but there's one technique that I wanna introduce to people to start thinking about, because I know you're probably thinking about cleaning up plants that have gone by, maybe some old bean plants or cucumber plants. If you have vegetable plants in your garden that are not disease-ridden or insect-ridden, now for a broccoli plant like this one that I chopped up, it had some cabbage worms, but I'm not concerned about that. Cabbage worms like powdery mildew is the kind of thing that's always around, it really doesn't matter whether you clean up the plant or not, it's gonna be around. So what I've been doing more and more is what I call chop and drop. And chop and drop is a method using a little hedge trimmer, you can see it there, where I just chop up plants that are in pretty good shape, they're not really disease-ridden, not too heavily insect-ridden, and just leave it right on top of the bed for the winter. Now the reason I'm doing this is twofold. One, it's nice to have a cover on that bed, it's always good to have something covered in the bed so it doesn't erode from the rains and the snow and the wind in the winter. The second thing though is I'm doing more and more what I call no-dig gardening. In fact, my new book will be coming out in December, little shame with self-promotion, the complete guide to no-dig gardening. And I talk about chop and drop in that book. And the idea is that you don't wanna disturb the soil, even in a raised bed, because the soil has a natural structure, there's a lot of living organisms that are in there that are creating a symbiosis, an ecosystem, and by digging it up or digging things in or pulling a lot of things out, like broccoli roots, as you know, they're pretty extensive. You do a lot of disrupting of the soil when you pull those out of the ground. That's disrupting all that natural system. So chop and drop gets around that. You chop it down to the ground, you leave it, and then next spring, you just take some compost, maybe a couple inch layer, you put that over the top of it, and you can just plant, because by then a lot of the leaves have broken down. Now, this is not a for the faint hearted kind of technique because it does leave some chunky pieces there. You can chop it as fine as you want, it doesn't really matter. It also leaves the roots intact because they're slowly gonna break down. So you may have to work a little bit around the roots in the spring when you're planting, but in my experience, it's not that hard to do and in a month or so, those things have broken down enough that your plants have been growing up around it and you've kind of forgotten all about it. So it's something to consider when you're thinking about making your plant, put the compost down in the spring. Don't do it in the summer or the fall because the compost simply can blow away. So if you do have compost or fresh compost in there, it is good to add some mulch on top. It could be a straw mulch, a wood chip mulch, here's some hay mulch with our dog Linus trampling around there in the fall. It's nice to have a cover of mulch over your bed because that again is going to protect it, just like the shop and drop technique talks about it. That's gonna protect it from the wind and erosion and protect those microorganisms that are in there too. You know, it won't freeze as solid and it's thick and keeps them alive longer so they'll be ready to go in the spring. So protecting those beds and adding the compost more in the spring is probably a good idea. So hopefully this will give you a few ideas about what to do now in the garden, whether it be dealing with your harvest and when to harvest and how to maximize the harvest, what to plant now and how to take care of it and get ready for the later in the fall. Let's see, Brussels sprouts, plants are huge. They look like cabbages. What's going on? Wow, I think you just have a really healthy garden. That's probably what's going on. If you have a lot of nitrogen, a lot of compost in that garden, those plants will really grow in bigger and bigger and bigger and what'll happen is you're not gonna see a lot of sprouts forming. So I think in that case, you might wanna go ahead and just top those plants. Just take the top off, try to get it to send more energy down to those bottom sprouts to get them forming. And that way you kind of guarantee what you have. Okay, we have another question. Should you chop and drop for all veggies in a raised bed? Are there some veggies it's not good for? I think the biggest one, the biggest veggie I would stay away from probably would be tomatoes. And that's because they always seem to get a lot of diseases and a lot of problems to them. So that is one that I actually don't chop and drop. I will chop it, I still will chop it. I won't take the whole plant off, but I will remove it and compost it somewhere else. And of course, if you're rotating crops and you can do that in your raised bed, that will help too, because you won't be planting the same crop or a family of crops in the same place time and time again, so the diseases don't build up. But if you can't do that, it's definitely a good idea to take tomatoes out. But for most other things, I have not really had much problem. Even like binding things like butternut squash I was showing you, some of those vines, just kind of chop them all up in the soil, just leave them there. I throw some hay mulch over them too, just help it kind of decompose. And nature has its own way of kind of breaking things down. I did talk about a watermelon, someone asked about when watermelon is ripe. So again, look at that little tendril. And someone also had a question about raspberries. And so the raspberries, they got a nice crop in the summer, but they're now looking kind of ratty. What's going on? Well, raspberries, after they fruit, their second year old canes, whether they're ever bearing or they're just regular July bearing raspberries, they're gonna die. So they're in the process of dying. So what you can do this time of year is go through with a hand pruner and prune out those canes that have yellow leaves and look like they're dying. They'll be the ones with the real woody bark that's kind of peeling off. The new canes you get should have more of a light green bark. Those are gonna be a fruit for either this fall, if you have ever bearing varieties, or next summer, if you have the regular varieties. So there are any other questions before I sign off. It doesn't look like it. So thank you for coming. I appreciate it. Again, I'm Charlie Nardosi and this is Hands. And we are doing all kinds of educational things around gardenings, around the area. Thanks for coming. I appreciate it. And hopefully I'll be seeing you in the garden. Take care.