 What's up guys so today's vlog is gonna be really fun So today what we're gonna be doing is color and a haircut on a live model I know you guys like those videos the inspiration for today's video came partly from my model Ani who I've done her hair in the past and then the other Inspiration for this video came from Paul Mitchell themselves because I was talking to them and they were talking about how it's the 20th anniversary of the color. This is the Paul Mitchell the original the color So I can't believe it's been 20 years. I've used this color for a very long time since the beginning of my career So I wanted to create a video Catering to what Ani wants and then also showing you guys some really cool color technique and also a haircut So Ani came in and she had really brassy ends of her hair from pretty much the mid-shaft to the end And she wanted to go back to more of her natural color So what I decided to do was create a block color technique for you guys It's a very simple technique that you'll be able to use in the salon right away It gives multi-dimension to hair color and also brings out the haircut as well So I think you guys are gonna like this video We also She requested a certain haircut and this is the cut that she decided to go with and the thing I like about this haircut is it starts a little bit shorter gets a little bit longer This was off of Pinterest so it's where a lot of our guests get their ideas Says 21 cute lob haircuts for the summer so they're considering this a lob haircut It is definitely a longer kind of bob feel to it But I would say it's definitely longer than a long bob But we'll call it a long bob just to be safe and we'll blame it on Pinterest so Hope you guys enjoy this video if you are liking this video Then make sure you hit the like button and also share this video into a hairdresser group so we can spread these Free salon education videos to as many hairdressers as possible. Thank you guys so much. Hope this video inspires you Let's get started. All right guys So I want to give you a good look at the before on Ani's hair So it's very brassy on the ends pretty much all the way up through mid shaft almost to the base only about two Inches of dark so she wants to go back to her natural color, which you can see it coming through So I'm gonna do a block color technique what I'm doing is I'm doing a zigzag parting around the top of the head So basically above the parietal back below the parietal back above the parietal and what that's gonna do is give me little triangle sections To allow the hair to fall in different dimensions. So now we're gonna get into mixing palmatial the color. This is seven and B It's a neutral blonde. So the reason I went level seven Some of you guys are probably like well, that's not close to our natural is I really just wanted to soften this 5a So I've got the 5a, which is an ash tone. It's got a blue base So it's gonna be nice and deep, but then I'd use the seven and B just to just to kind of Soften it warm it up a bit give it almost that level six feel But still keeping the 5a to get rid of that orange tone So we're using our blue base to get rid of the orange tone Then I go in my second formula is gonna be 5nn, which is a light neutral neutral brown So this has a lot of depth to it and this is where I'm gonna get my darkest tone And I'm not cutting that with anything so I'll get a true level five almost appearing as a level four And I mixed 10 volume with both of these formulas. So what's gonna happen is the 5nn I'm gonna put on the bottom part of that Overhead and then I'm gonna put the other formula on the top of her head And it's gonna mix and match because of that sectioning that we did So I start off and I start coloring the bottom I put on that 5nn and I color around each of those little triangle pieces So some of you guys have been out there. This isn't a technique I created This is a technique that is just great Block coloring is an unbelievable way to create dimension within hair color And I think it's what makes us professional is being able to go in there and create multiple Kind of multi-dimensional tones throughout the head. That's the whole purpose natural hair is never one color Right because the Sun lightens it up or whatever. So I go in I add the depth underneath So I paint everything at the base first I work my way all the way around the head and then I paint it through the ends that tends to work for me some people really love to Paint the scalp to ends right away. I think painting the scalp getting that on as quick as possible So it's nice and consistent and then getting everything else on as quick as possible It works the best and it's just my preference, but you guys can do it however you like So again, just painting through another little quick tip This is something I learned from my pal calling Caruso a long time ago Is using the rat tail comb in my hand while I'm painting? So I'm not messing up my brush and I just use that rat tail to take my section and then I'm already ready to paint So it's just a quick way to get through the head And that works really well as well. So there's a little tip for you So now I go through once I have that 5nn on the base And I just paint it through the ends working the color back and forth thing I like about Palmachal the color is it's got a nice creamy consistency to it So it glides to the hair really well We get a lot of saturation and it's just a really great hair color true to tone So I use 10 volume as well not trying to lift this obviously she's already at the level that I needed So I think too many people go extreme with their developer And then when you do that you're lifting the hair underneath and I didn't want that so Because she's already at a level five on a root if I would have put 20 volume on there I might have lifted her root and created more orange tone than I wanted and I wouldn't have got this soft result that I get at the end So now painting the top formula the 7nb mixed with that 5a and Just so you guys know I don't think I mentioned it yet But the the mixture of that was it was two parts of the 5a to one part of the nb So still keeping it a nice deep tone, but just adding that 7nb in there to soften it up So once I get that painted through then I'm gonna twist the whole section up together and kind of knot it away The only reason I do this just to keep it clean and out of the way. It's really no No other reason to do it So that'll show you you can see the dips and the highs and the valleys throughout that That's it's basically like creating a star technique on the head without being a star I processed that for 35 minutes and then we can get into our cut. This is the Donald Scott carving comb This is a cool tool available in two different forms There's a fine tooth and a wide tooth on freeslineeducation.com And I'm gonna use that for the haircut and I'm also gonna use Olaplex number two as kind of a Treatment because it's a bond multiplier. So it's gonna help create extra bonds in her hair, but also at the same time Using a razor. So a lot of people freak out about using a razor. I used a fresh blade I use Olaplex number two so she gets a treatment the entire time and I go in and I start my cut I took the parting basically straight down Center back and then I went from the occipital bone over to the ear pretty standard sectioning for me And I just hold everything horizontally and I carved through it with the hundred percent cutting side of the carving comb Then I go through you can see what I'm doing now as I go through with the 50 percent cutting side So I'm only taking out every other section of hair and I just debulk the ends the whole point of this Haircut I think is to make it nice and light throughout the ends But still have a blunt feel that might not make much sense But you see a lot of people maybe walking around the supermarket that Have had this haircut done with a scissor and they just get it cut blunt and it becomes super heavy So I love the razor for this cut because every time I take that one inch kind of Pattern back and forth on the hair that stroking pattern You're softening the edge and that's why this haircut lays so nice at the end So I go through hundred percent cutting side. I keep bringing everything back to that one point It's a very simple cut But you just want to make sure that you're doing all of your strokes the same way and consistent And then also as I start to work my way off to the edge I start letting the hair get a little bit longer. So almost drawing it with a pencil to be longer towards the side I didn't want to continue that line across because it would have been too short in the front And Ani really wanted that length in the front. That was kind of her big thing It was to make sure that she had preserved that length in the front of her head So you can see the angle that's happening and what I do is I just pinch cut So I grab the hair that I want to cut and I clean it up the line after I cut it the first time So it's just going through that's one thing I love about the razor is it's basically just like using a pencil To draw exactly what you want on the head I'm also normally I would be in a cutting stool, but Ani's sitting on a cutting stool So she was pretty low to the ground. So I'm actually on my knees Going through and cutting this but it's nice to be nice and low to the work As opposed to bending over and trying to get your cut the right way So I love using a cutting stool in situations like this So again, you can see me go in with the 50% carved side. That's just softening the edge So I cut the blunt edge then I go through and I soften it with the 50% carve If you guys have never seen the carving comb before it's available on free salon education comm. That's our website You could purchase it. It's like 40 bucks. I think it's $39 pick up some extra blades on there as well It's a great tool to have because not only is it a razor it has two different types of razor It has a comb so you can also hold your scissors at the same time So it's almost a tool that allows you to hold three different tools in your hand at the same time Now see how I'm kind of stretching and creating length on the edge that's really just to preserve that length and it's Customizing it right so you could do that with scissors as well. Just go through a point cut You just get more of a blunt edge and a bulkier You get bulk a bulkier feel on the ends. Wow, that was easy for me to say Okay, so now I'm going through a 50% carve side just through the edges I did it a few times on the right side That's the bulkier side and then I just do it one time on the weak side, which is the side her parts on I don't you don't want to overdo it because you don't want too much layering and you just want it to be nice and soft So you can see that angle that we created it is a little bit longer than the picture But on he was a little freaked out about Getting your hair cut short then what we had to do is because we put Olaplex number two in we had to Shampoo that out conditioner hair then bring her back. I would charge extra for that treatment But it's an unbelievable treatment gives her hair a lot of shine and helps build those bonds Now I'm going in with the invisible wear volume whip I like to put my product in and brush it through so I'm using my ergo paddle brush brushing it through the hair and Getting it very consistent throughout the entire ends of the hair and then I start in This is the palmatial neuro dryer and I just work some of the moisture out of the hair and then after I get it about let's say To the point where it's 60% Maybe 40% dry. Let's say that 40% dry then I'll go through and start with my brush I don't want to power dry the whole thing because then you lose the shine you start lifting the cuticle up But if you go through and then just do a little power dry then work with your brush You're good to go and now I go in with the invisible wear undone texture hair spray and this really you can see I Love putting hair spray on the hair when it's about 80 to 90% dry a little bit of that spray the texture spray And then I go back in blow it dry then iron it and you get this really nice shine and polish on the hair You can see the color also come into life. It's not super dark. She wanted a chocolate feel It's right at about what her base was and it also has that dimension and movement But it's not too different like we used a level five and we used a level six not crazy But I'm not about coloring hair all crazy. I'm about creating very natural Looks in hair. So you can see that angle that goes forward. I think you guys are gonna be able to use that technique a lot I hope you can Also, I go through and I just touch it up with a scissor Just any little hairs that are hanging out or anything like that. It's always good to go in and work on those details Right there. I'm just showing you that because of that 50% car side you get that soft edge Look at the shine and the I mean this color. There's a reason. It's been around for the last 20 years Beautiful shine. You can see the dimension in there. I hope you guys like the video Please let me know in the comments below if you have any questions about anything that you saw But I hope you guys like the video as much as I like making it. I'll see you guys on the next All right guys like always I hope you liked the video if you did like it then make sure you hit like and Share this video with all of your hairdresser friends and in all of your hairdresser groups So we can spread the word of pre salon education to as many hairdressers as possible I really appreciate your guys' support on that. Thank you so much for watching and again If you want to pick up any of these tools like the Donald Scott carving comb go to free salon education calm And you can buy those tools there And if you're interested in the palmichael products used in this video go to palmichael calm and you can purchase those products So thank you guys so much for checking out this video, and I'll see you soon