 Hey guys, welcome to Rotorite. I'm the driv and today we're doing a build. We're building my signature two-inch micro frame, the drivelet. I say two inch because it spins two inch propellers. This is gonna be a small compact build. I love micros because you can fly them anywhere. The consequences are a lot lower than when you're flying a full-blown pro grade five inch mini quad and best of all, it's a lot cheaper. It's a great way to get into this whole thing. Actually, you can buy a lot of these kind of micro-class drones pre-built and if that's something you're interested in, check the link in the description for our full selection of bind-and-fly or ready-to-fly micro drones. But if you want to start enjoying the building aspect of this hobby, come along. We're doing a build. These micros are a great place to start because like I said, things are cheaper. The build is also going to be simpler overall. So you're gonna be able to bang it out a lot faster. The only downside is that the components are smaller. So your work is going to be a little bit more precise. However, if you can learn to build these micros and do some of the smaller soldering, then when you do step up to do like a five inch quad, it's gonna be a lot easier. Let's get right into what we're working with today. Like I said, we're gonna be using my signature micro frame, the dribblet, main plate, some hardware, some gummies, side plates, battery straps, a little back plate, battery pad, stickers, all sorts of goodies for the frame. As far as motors go, we're gonna be using the Hyptrain DAB motors. These are an 1104 7,500 KV. So they're really small, really light weight, but that high KV makes them very responsive and really good for a small two-inch propeller. For electronics, we're gonna be building around the Diatone Mamba stack for ESCs on one board and your flight controller on another board. So this is this is pretty much a drone. And for the FPV gear, we've got some products from Runcam. This is the Runcam Robin. Very good performance in a micro form factor. And the video transmitter is also by Runcam. This is the Runcam TX 200U. And what's cool about this video transmitter is it can actually stack on the back of your camera. Just like that, just like a backpack. So you've got your FPV gear all in one. As you'll see, that's not how we're going to do the build in this case. But it is convenient for other applications. And for my receiver, I've got a Beta FPV DSMX compatible receiver. Something that will bind up to my spectrum radio, and it has a very small form factor. That's the thing with these micros. You're looking for small light weight components. Keep it light. And being able to fit everything is also pretty important. The first step is going to be mounting our stack to our base plate. Now if you take a look at the base plate, you've got got a bunch of holes going on here. These inside holes, this is a 16 by 16 bolt pattern. There are some new really compact flight controllers and ESC stacks coming out that use 16 by 16. So if you really want to get this squeezed down, this frame will support that. But the diatone stack that we are using, it's going to use the outside set of holes. That is 20 by 20. Still very small, but a little bit larger. It's going to make things easier to work on. The holes for the 20 by 20, they're actually three millimeters in diameter. So you can fit an M3 screw in there. So if that's something that you're going to be working with, you won't have a problem. But the 20 by 20 stacks that I prefer, I'll use M2 hardware. So what you're going to do to step down the three millimeter hole to a two millimeter hole is you're going to get these gummies. Using these gummies is going to give you an additional advantage because it's going to soft mount the entire stack. Soft mounting is going to isolate the gyro, isolate the sensors and allow your flight controller to work with much cleaner signals. So I just like to kind of squeeze it. Maybe you have to grab a little tool. Got my tweezers here, which we are going to be using these tweezers a lot. You'll see. Try and poke it through. Not to be too rough with it. You don't want to rip the rubber, but it's pretty tough stuff. There you go. You got it in there. Having done a couple of these, I think the easier way to do it is to insert the gummy from the side without the recessed part here because your battery is going to go there. So you don't want your battery matched up against the hardware. I think it's easier to go in from the non-recessed side. So that part where you can get right to the hole, pinch it, push it through a little bit with the tweezers. These needle nose tweezers are great. This side where the gummy is protrude, that's where your stack is going to go. Let's do a little bit of a test fit. I'm just going to hold our stack there. These side plates, as we'll get to later on, are going to install there and uh-oh, it's hitting the stack. We're going to have to make a little bit of an adjustment. We need the stack to sit lower. There are M2 spacers on the bottom of the stack and in the middle of the stack. We're going to remove them from the bottom. We're going to see if we can mount it a little bit differently. We can go ahead and unplug this all together. So we've got the four and one board separated out here and we're going to mount it to the frame. We're not using the stock hardware. Again, we want to lower it down. And what you're going to need to get is four M2 by 12 screws and four M2 nuts. You might be able to find this type of hardware at a hardware store, but for your convenience, we also have it available in the Rotorite store. We're going to slide the M2 by 12 millimeter screw up through the bottom of the frame. Again, the bottom is the side with the recesses. Then we're going to thread an M2 nut. The nut is essentially going to be our spacer. Sometimes you can get it all the way down just with your fingers. We've got our screws and our nuts. Now we're going to take these white spacers that were part of the stack, slip them down. There's a little lip for centering the board. You want that lip facing upward because the board is going to sit on top of it. Now we're going to drop our four and one board onto the screws. Pay attention to orientation. They've actually marked the numbers for each motor. You want the number one motor to be in the back right corner and the number two motor to be in the front right corner. So we just set that on top like that. All right, we're going to take one of our leftover spacers and just thread it on to the board just to hold the board in place while we solder. That's all we need. It is motor time at one of your hype train dab motors. We are going to mount it to the arm and then we're going to solder the motor to the four and one. Each motor comes with a bunch of screws. Find the right length. You want it to go through the carbon but not touch the windings. Double and triple check that. You really don't want the screws of the motors to touch the windings. It doesn't hurt to double check. So yeah, we can use the long screws to go through the frame and up into the motor. Depending on your frame, maybe you want to use the short screws. Just be really careful of that because it can ruin your motors if the screws touch the windings. You can screw on all four motors and then solder all four motors and that might be more efficient because you're not picking up and putting down your tool as much. Then the wires are kind of all the way so we're just going to do one motor all the way soldered up at a time. While you are soldering, what you don't want is you don't want blobs of solder falling onto your work. So I'm going to take some electrical tape, stick it over there. Actually that fits really well. Look at that. That's a lot of protection we got there. We'll remove that later but that's just to give us protection while we're soldering. TS100 soldering iron. This is my favorite tool. Not only really small and compact and what I use on the field but I end up just using this tool on the bench. It's my full-time soldering iron. While that heats up, we are going to cut our wires to length so I'm just going to kind of run them along the arm and we're just going to solder them straight to the pads and then we'll fix motor direction later. So when you solder, what you're going to want to do is pre-tin the wire and pre-tin the pad. So we get solder on the two things that you're soldering together then hold them together, apply heat so that the solder flows into each other. It gets all continuous. We're holding the iron to the pad and applying solder to the pad. There it is. Repeat. All right. All three of our pads are tinted. Same thing with the wires. Apply heat to the wire and apply solder to the wire until it flows. Small tip is I always keep in mind how I'm going to be holding my tweezers. So if I start with the wire that's over here on this side then as I work my tweezers are going to be pushing into the wires that are already done so we're going to work from this side this way. That makes sense. So grab the wire. This frame is moving around. We're just going to tape the whole frame down. There we go. We're holding the pre-tin wire onto the pre-tin pad. Applying heat. It flows together. Once the wires are soldered it's going to flatten the wires down on the arm. Grab these long stickers. Wrap it around to hold the wires down. Look how nice that looks. Yes. So from start to finish you mount your motor to the frame. Run your wires to the four and one. Cut them to length. Strip the wires. Pre-tin the wires. Pre-tin the pads. Solder them together. Do the same for the other three quarters. I like to put in the two screws kind of loosely and then tighten them up all the way. Actually by the way I'm being stupid putting the stickers on before I actually test. You should really do the stickers kind of like last because I have no idea if any of these components might be dead for whatever reason. Stuff happens. We'll risk it. I want to show you how it works right now. I'm impatient. We've got one more thing to solder here. That's the connector for the battery. Diatone is nice enough to include some wire and an XD30 connector and oh wow it's got a capacitor. You know what? I rarely use capacitors but if they're going to throw one in the kit I think I'll throw it in here. So we've got our wire that's going to be our power lead. So it's going to attach there and we know that it needs to hook around because the battery is bottom mounted. So it's going to be something like that. So I'm just kind of guesstimating about there. I'd leave it a little longer because you could always shorten it later. It's more of a pain to lengthen it. Two and a little extra drip thumbs wide. I know here we'll measure this for you. We'll measure. It's about five centimeters. They've got the end of the wire pre-tinned for you. I do not trust the solder that comes from the factories. They're lead free. It's just not as good. So you can either cut that off and strip it and re-tin it or just flood it with some of your own solder. I'm going to do that so you can see. Again we want to cover up the component while we're soldering on it. We taped it that way before but now we're working here. We're not working on this anymore so now we're just going to tape it this way. There we go. Plus we're going to use red minus we're going to use black. This is just like we did before. The wires are just a little bit bigger. Oh yeah that's a nice All right while we're in here let's add this capacitor. The line with the stripes that's your negative side. That's going to attach to the black side. The line with no stripes that's your red side that's your positive. We don't need these long of stems so we're just going to cut them off. I'm just going to kind of hold it on here. It looks pretty good. And now we are done soldering to our 4-in-1. We're going to add our flight controller to this stack. We need these spacers. There's not going to be a super clean way to do this. We're just going to disassemble everything and just grab the spacers and thread them on by hand. This hardware is small so you don't you don't want to over torque it. Just get it snug. If you knock off one of these spacers set it back on the threads. Again you want the small lip facing toward the board. So it's facing up. Got our board again. It looks like there's two plugs here and you don't need to use this smaller one. It wasn't plugged into anything. Maybe there's some other diatone accessory that you can use. We're not going to use it. All right plug in the 4-in-1. Just lift this up and over set it on the threads. We are looking good. Pick those nuts back up. Thread it on. Now I don't have a socket that's this size. I should. I'm going to be working on micros. So what I'm going to do is I'm just going to get it as tight as I can with my fingers and then I'm going to grab my tweezers. And this is a little monotonous but if you don't have this socket I'm just going to snug it up like this. You don't need to over tighten it too much because this board also has soft mounting in the board itself. So again we have soft mounting in the frame. That's kind of soft mounting the entire stack. And then we've got rubber grommets in the fly boards. So we've got two stages of vibration isolation. So this should make for a very clean and well-performing machine. Thing is mounted. Let's do another fitment check. We have fitment. It is a little bit close and if you want to lower it even further. Look there's tons of room between the foreign one and the flight controller. So you could get smaller spacers but I don't want you to have to deal with picking up too much extra hardware. So you can just use it as is if you want and it'll work out. Now it's time to solder the other components to the flight controller. But what's what? I don't know. Let's check what we got here. Under side of this. I almost threw this away. Watch out all the pieces of paper that you throw away on the backside of this label. There's your detailed diagram. We're seeing as we're going to grab one of the harnesses that came with our camera. We're going to solder this to our flight board. This is going to plug into our camera. We've got three wires. Reds power. Black is ground. Yellow is video. That's going to go to the flight board. So the flight board is both going to power the camera as well as receive the video. And the reason that we're soldering the video to the flight board is because the video is going to go from the camera into the flight board. And as we'll see later it'll go out from the flight board to the video transmitter. And that's going to allow the flight controller to overlay an on-screen display on your video feed, which is going to let you get information about your aircraft, why you're flying, like battery voltage and time flying, as well as access the Betaflight on-screen display where you can do things like PID tuning and change other settings, including your video transmitter channel, which is super convenient. Screw hitting those buttons. We need to use the 5 volt ground video end. So that is the third, fourth, and fifth pads away from the front of the board. So let's TID those so that we see exactly which ones we are going to use. All right, our camera is up here, but like that, I just like eyeballing things, you know, about three and a half centimeters. Stripping the wires. Pretending the wires. It's a little bit harder, but what I'm going to do is I'm going to solder the wire so that it's falling back over the flight board. The easier thing to do would be to just hang it off like that. The wires are coming out of the sides. It's just going to be a little bit neater if I can pull it off like this. This is a little bit trickier, but keeps things clean. These pads are really small. So with the pad pretend and the wire pretend, I barely even had to touch. I was just like, and it was, it was done. Maybe I could have gone down in heat, but it's kind of, it's kind of, I think it's better to use a little higher heat and less time on the pad. Next up on our list, let's do our video transmitter. Like I said before, you can mount this thing on the back of your camera, which is convenient for some builds, but depending on the stack that you're using, it might run into the stack. So I'm not sure if it would clear with this one, but I'm just not even going to bother. We're just going to mount it another way that I'll show you, but let's get it soldered up. This is meant to plug directly into the camera, which again is for convenience, but we don't want to hook up the camera that way because we are going to be feeding the video into the flight controller and then back out into the video transmitter. So what that means is we don't want to use this plug because this plug would get the video straight from the camera to the video transmitter. We wouldn't be getting the on-screen display capability that we want. Let's just cut off the plug. We're going to solder this yellow wire to the flight board so that the video signal can get from the flight board to the video transmitter, and we're not going to use this power and ground wire. So let's go ahead just desolder those wires. The wires are removed. I'm double checking that I didn't bridge the pads or anything. Looks good. We've got our yellow wire ready for soldering. Right next to it is a green wire. This is your telemetry wire. This is going to be soldered to a UART pad on the flight controller, and it's going to allow your flight controller to control your video transmitter. You might have heard this referred to as smart audio. That is one very common protocol. This particular video transmitter actually uses TRAMP telemetry, which is just another language, but it does the same things that you might have heard about in which your flight controller can control the channel band power output of your video transmitter. Super convenient. And lastly, down here we've got our power and ground, and this is what's going to deliver power to the video transmitter. Now this little baby video transmitter, it's 5 volts. If you've built before, you know most video transmitters, especially the larger ones, will require a larger voltage. This one you cannot power higher than 5.5 volts, so it'll it'll burn out. So just keep that in mind. 5 volt video transmitter. We're not going to use this lead. What we're going to end up doing is we're going to end up floating it above the flight board. I'll show you how we're going to do that. So I guess this can pass right over here. It's out of there, and those can go there. All right. Something else I want to do is I want to rotate this antenna all the way around. I've got some heat shrink here, so I want to just wrap this stuff up. You are covering up the button, but again, we're going to hook up our telemetry, so we're not ever going to need to use that button. All right, so looking down the side again, one down from where we soldered video in, we've got another 5 volt, then ground, then TX3. That is the transmitter pad of UART3. And when I say transmitting, what that means is the flight controller transmits a signal to another component. So that's the pad that we are going to want to use for our telemetry, because the flight controller is going to send a signal to the video transmitter to tell it what channel it should be on. And then one below that pad is the video out. So again, flight controller sends the video signal to the video transmitter after it has overlaid the on-screen display. So it's just the next four pads down from where we already worked. Got a little too much solder on that one, so we just clean the tip over here. Revisit that. Wick away some of it. There we go. That's better. Three, four. All right, let's start with 5 volt ground. Pretend. Now this is where I mentioned that soldering these smaller components a little bit precise. Just take your time. It's not lining up, just back away. Reset. The wire wasn't lining up the way I wanted, so just get out of there. That's where we want it right there. Whoops. Looking pretty good. The green wire and the yellow wire end in roughly the same place. The green wire is a lot longer. I'm just going to trim them so they're the same. Just again, keeping things clean as we go. Right below the ground wire we've got the TX wire. Now we're making some pretty good progress here. We've got our lead for the camera. We've got our video transmitter. The last thing that we need to connect to the fly controller is your receiver. This is the component that receives the signal from your transmitter and then tells the fly controller what you want it to do. So looking at this little receiver, we've got a pad labeled SG and 5V. So that's signal ground and 5 volts. This is another 5 volt accessory. Let's check our connection diagram for what we're looking for. There are still some pads open in the row that we were working on. We've got another 5 volt and ground pad but there isn't a good place to input the signal. There's a pad labeled SBUS and now if you are using an SBUS receiver for FreeSky then just work in the same pad. Use 5 volt ground and SBUS. We are using a DSMX receiver. SBUS is an inverted signal and DSMX is a non-inverted signal. So you need to use a pad that's expecting a non-inverted signal. So it's labeled SBUS. It's not going to work on another protocol like Spectrum or Crossfire. So we're going to go down to this lower pad and we've got ground 5 volt TX3 and RX3. Wait a minute. Don't use 3. We used UART3 in the row that we were already working on. UART3 is being used for your video transmitter telemetry and each UART1234 however many you have can only be used for one function. So don't use 3. Let's keep a look in. Okay we've got TX6 and RX6. We'll use UART6 and the pad that you want is RX6. That's because the receiver has a signal that it is sending to the flight controller. The flight controller wants to receive it so it knows what it needs to do. So we're going to use the pad labeled RX6. All right so let's prepare the receiver. We've got the raw board. We've got some wire. We've got an antenna and we've got some heat shrink so let's get these wires attached. So the wire they gave us we've got black, red and yellow wire. Let's take our red wire. We're going to insert it into the through hole labeled 5V. All right so this is a slightly different soldering technique because it's not a pad that we pre-tend. It's a through hole. The wire was ordered pre-tend so we inserted the pre-tend wire into the hole and now we just apply some heat and add some solder. A little extra heat for good measure. All right we'll repeat for the black and yellow wires. Now that our wire is attached we'll give them a little twist. Next thing we're going to do is attach our receiver antenna. This is another piece that we're going to float over the flight board. I think I'm going to position it like this to give a little added security to the antenna. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to run the antenna over the top of the receiver just like we did with the video transmitter. These things can be a little tricky so just take your time. There we go. Clicks right into place. Okay had to do it at an angle but I want to run the antenna over the surface of the receiver so now that it's snapped on we're just going to rotate it just like that. There we go. Now the reason I wanted to do that, they gave us this piece of heat shrink. I'm going to heat shrink it down. That's going to give us a really secure antenna. It's not going to pop off that connector. Now the area we're going to be working is down here so let's remove our protective electrical tape, reposition it so we can get to this area of pads. We don't need it to be as long because it's going to sit there so let's see how short can we get away with. And we'll just take a little length off. The first pad to the right of the larger pad that's our receiver pad right there. Then we're going to skip one to get to five volts right there and then right next to it is our ground pad. Look at this. Look at this. This may not look like it quite yet but this is a drone. This is everything that you need to fly. You've got to plug the camera in. We've got our video transmitter, got our receiver, got our flight board, got our ESCs, got our motors. We're coming along. The last thing that we need to solder on is the plug for the battery. I've been stripping everything with my fingernail but this is a little bit thicker wire so we'll actually use wire strippers. What a concept, huh? This is thicker wire than what we've been working with so the strands can definitely kind of fray out so I'm just giving it a bit of a twist. Now once we pre tin it, it won't get messy ever again. This is like I said thicker wire so it's going to take a little bit longer. The other ones we just barely had to tap and it did it but this one to see where we're going to work it a little more. I just like to twist around and look at all sides of the wire. See look? Look I got solder on the top side but as I rotate it over there's not solder on the underside so I'm just going to apply heat to the bottom and that will bring the solder through and now look there it is. It's like kind of got a blob there. We can just try and wick it off. You just want the solder to be like in the strands. With the stack they gave us a XT30 connector and this is what we're going to solder on. The flat side is for the positive and the curved side is for the negative. There are markings on it. Again plus is red minus is black. A little scrap of heat shrink here. I don't know what size this is. You want something that when you insert it over the wire it's got a little bit of play so that you can slide it on and then shrink it but obviously not too big not too small so we're just going to trim piece there a little second piece. We're going to slide this onto the wire and get it as far away from where the heat is going to be. So we're soldering the connector on this end so I'm sliding it all the way down there because I don't want it to shrink at all due to the heat of the soldering iron so get it all the way down there. If you have spare connectors I like to put a connector in while I'm doing the soldering. It will just help dissipate the heat through the connector a little bit better and prevent the metal contact from getting loose in the plastic. Make sure you solder to the right side. I've just got it supported with the tool there. Take this other tool so that the wire is getting pressed down into the barrel. I'm going to apply heat to the pre-tun wire and some extra solder and we want to see it all flow together. Beautiful. Wick off a little bit extra. That's what we want to see. Looks pretty good. Now we're going to slide our heat shrink that hopefully didn't shrink. It looks like we're in luck right up over that. Little heat. Beautiful. All the soldering should be totally done now and I say should because if there's a problem we might have to go back and do some fixing. So to test it we're not just going to plug in a battery. We're going to use a smoke stopper. There's a couple versions of this. This is an electronic smoke stopper. This is more of a DIY solution with automotive bulb. Essentially what a smoke stopper does is it prevents a higher amount of current from being drawn so it will let you power up your drone but if there is some source of high current draw like a motor running or even worse a short circuit this will prevent too much current from being flown because of the resistance of the light bulb or because of the circuitry of this. So you can get these in XT60 as we have here or in XT30. I mean this is like I said DIY you could just make this. I happen to not have an XT30 version here. Like I said you can get one but if you don't you can also make a little adapter. This end is where I'm going to plug in the battery and this is the end that would normally plug into the drone. Obviously it's too big. So here we have a female connector that will just slip on there and then now we've got a male connector that that could plug in there. We're just going to solder these together real quick but it doesn't have to be the best soldering because this isn't something you're actually going to fly with. It's just for testing. Now we've got the smoke stopper that we had laying around. I know it seems weird to plug such a large battery into a drone but voltage is voltage. The capacity is not going to affect anything. It's just bigger because of the higher capacity. These components are rated for four cell. This is a big four cell battery. We're going to be flying it on three but that's just what we got. So here we go. All right everything's looking good. This is green. If the smoke stopper was triggered I think it just shuts off altogether. We wouldn't be getting the beeps. We wouldn't be getting the status lights from our components. Looks like our build checks out. I've confidence that everything is hooked up correctly. Final assembly. We're going to attach these side plates to the quad and the camera is going to be sandwiched between them. So we're just going to pick one and we're going to attach the camera to the side plate in advance. The connector is the top of the camera so that should be facing up this long swoop. That's going to be the top of the drone so just line it up like that. We're not going to tighten it up all the way. Just get it in there loose. Get it in there loose so you can still move freely. Now we're going to take our standoffs and our screws that came with the frame and we're going to attach the standoffs to the side plate. All the standoffs are the same size. They are 19 millimeters so don't worry about grabbing the right ones. All the screws that come with the frame are also the same size. They're six millimeters long so you don't worry about that either. Again just finger tight. We've got our camera and our three horizontal standoffs attached to one of the side plates. The other side plate is going to join on the frame. Before we do that we need to attach our little upper plate with a vertical standoff. That's what this hole is for in the back of the frames. I'm just going to go like that. Push the wires so that the wires are going to the side of that one rear vertical standoff. All the hardware for the electronics in the camera has been a 1.5 millimeter hex head. The hardware for the frame construction is two millimeter hex heads. Watch out for contact with the capacitor. If you added a capacitor it might hit that so we're just going to bend it forward. There we go and it'll just stick up and it'll be fine. We'll go back through and tighten up everything later. What we want to do is the two electronic components that we're going to float above the stack. We're going to tape them together like that. Let's get a little piece. This isn't to hold anything down. It's just kind of a whole thing. It's kind of more in place. Stick that to the back of the video transmitter. There we go and we'll stick the receiver right like that. Give it a press. There that's fine. So now we've got our sandwich. Here's one of our side pieces. Before we fit anything into place or thread any hardware we want to make sure we remember to plug in our camera. Here we go. We want this front tab on the bottom plate to insert through the side plate there. Just going to take some wiggling. Simultaneously we need this rear tab on that small upper plate to insert through this rear slot on the side plate. There we go. All right we're in place. We've got our other side plate going to hold it all together. Hold this sandwich together before we wrap it up. There we go. Okay hold it with one hand there. Now we're just going to take our screws and get it snugged up, not too tight again. Now we're switching tools, putting down the two millimeter, picking up the 1.5, getting another screw for the camera. Now we just need to secure these electronics that are poking up through the top. We're going to make a little pouch on electrical tape so I'm pulling them back. We've got slack in the wire. Kind of a longish piece. We're just going to insert it under the side plates. We can reach in from the top, grab it, just get it coming on through. Now we've got this tape running underneath the side plates. So the sticky side is facing up toward us. We're going to take our little electronics pieces here. You know what? I'm a little bit nervous about the video transmitter touching the carbon fiber with the side plates. Let's go back here. Got a piece of heat shrink here. We're going to put this over our video transmitter as well. The other thing this is going to do is also help hold down this antenna that's just snapped on there. So we've got extra security. We've got better electrical insulation. All good things. Okay now I stick these two pieces back together, setting them down on the sticky side of the tape. Like that. Now we just bring this up here. Let me take this other side, wrap it around. We can cut off a little bit of excess. Looks pretty good. This antenna is coming from our video transmitter. I'm just going to leave it flopping like this. This is our receiver antenna. It's a little bit longer so I'm going to see what I can do to protect it. I think I'm going to stick it down through here and then back up between this rear plate and standoff. And then if I really want to protect that antenna, you can take a zip tie and wrap it around the rear standoff like so. We've got our antenna run alongside our zip tie tail. We want the tail to be just a bit longer. Cut it there. Got another small piece of heat shrink measured out. Now you want to go around and actually tighten up all the screws. Get this thing locked into place. If you're new to setting up Betaflight make sure to look for a link in the description for another video that walks you through a basic Betaflight setup. It is with one of the larger drones but it's all the same stuff. It's all going to be very similar but I'll cover some quick points here. So jumping in and look for target FYO. Also type dump in the CLI. Look at the top and see what this is. Okay, Fury F4 OSD. So that's the name of the target that this diatone board uses. So I'm going to the firmware flashing section and look for Fury F4 OSD. Grab the newest version. Right now that's 3.5.7. Full chipper race. Load firmware. Flash firmware. Let's do this. All right we've got the new firmware in there. We open up to this setup tab. Good thing to check is that all the orientation is right. So tilting the nose forward results in the model being tilted forward. Tilting it to the right. Model tilts to the right. Yaw lines up. Okay so all the sensors are aligned. We're not going to fix anything. It's just a good thing to check. Jumping right to the ports tab. Now if we remember default it's got UR1 for Serial RX but that's not what we did. I think that's the default because if you use the S-Bus pad for FreeSky it's on UR1. So we're going to turn off Serial RX for UR1 and we're going to turn it on for UR6 which is what we used. UR3 is what we connected for our video transmitter telemetry. So over here in peripherals we are going to select IRC Tramp. As I mentioned this particular video transmitter uses Tramp protocol. Save and reboot. All right let's jump in there to ports. Make sure that our changes were saved. Now we're into configuration. We're going to set our gyro and PID loop. We'll leave Accelerometer on. Brometer's already off. Select the right Serial Language. We use Spectrum. So Spectrum 2048. Scroll down. Looks good. Looks good. Oh check these two things. That way your motors will act like a beeper if you so desire. Yes see protocol. We used D-Shot 600. That's fine. That's fine. Arming. The default maximum arm angle is 25 degrees. That means if your quad is like tilted more than 25 degrees you can't arm it. Might be a good safety feature for some but I like to be able to arm no matter what. To be able to shake out of trees or take off an incline whatever I need to do so set that to 180. Save and reboot. Now we're into pin tuning. I'm just going to throw in some numbers that I know are going to be pretty close. For the most part I'm just having to lower everything because the defaults are more set up for a five inch quad and this is a two inch quad so I'm going to bring it down a little bit. So I'm putting in some numbers that I know are going to be pretty close. I'm using actually the exact same rates that I use on my five inch. But I'm going to get this thing dialed in a little bit more and there will be a link in the description to a screen cap of all my final settings. So if you build the exact same thing it'll give you a really close starting point to what I fly but you'll probably still want to tweak it and tune it to your exact preferences and whatever particulars there may be about your build. Over in filters. Okay we could probably turn off some of the second stage low pass filters but for now I'm just going to leave it on. The next tab is the receiver tab but before we can do that we need to actually bind the transmitter. As I mentioned if it's free sky you might need to hit a button or something like that but it's spectrum and we'll use a CLI command so we're going to go down to CLI. In CLI we're going to type set spectrum underscore set underscore bind equals nine. Type save hit enter unplug the computer. We set it up so that next time the board is powered it's going to put the receiver in bind mode and we're going to plug in the battery here. I'm looking in between the tape it is blinking we got some fast blinking orange light in there got my radio but you get a little bit of separation so I don't overwhelm the signal we are bound perfect. Now I'm going to leave the battery plugged in so that the receiver stays powered plug the quad back into the computer now we can get things set up on the receiver tab. I already have the end points in my radio properly set up so that full stick deflection one way goes to a thousand full stick deflection the other way goes to two thousand you need to do that for all of your control channels and confirm the correct direction. Again for more detail link in the description to a more focused video now we are going to the modes tab. I already have channels assigned to switches that I like to use here's my arm switch all right here's my angle mode beeper air mode here's my turtle mode all right that should be everything I need to do hit save now I'm going down into the motors tab smooth motors just a little bit all right check our motor direction it tells us all the motor numbers on the screen and there's an arrow showing the direction they shouldn't be turning so I'm just going to grab it lightly with my finger one is turning the correct direction two is turning the wrong direction three is turning the wrong direction and four is turning the right direction they're actually all turning the same direction because if you remember we just connected the three wires straight to the corresponding three pads on D4 and one ESC so that makes sense that they're all spinning the same direction and the two motors that we need to change direction are two and three we're gonna have to use a separate program for that so we'll we'll come back to that on-screen display we're gonna set this up just the way we like it put a little battery voltage I like timer two that's the timer for how long we've been armed craft name we'll stick this up here but we should name this thing let's go back to configuration what do we call this dribble it sweet all right this should be all set up let's unpack it from the computer let's check our arming and arms check our beeper nice last thing we need to do is change motor direction all right we've jumped over to our bl heli configurator these are bl heli SES so we are able to use the chrome based configurator that works on mac if you're using a more expensive stack that uses a bl heli 32 you might have to go to a windows but here we go let's see what we're working with we needed to reverse the direction of motor two and motor three what else do we want to do all this is fine we'll turn on brake on stop we're using d shots so these ppm settings don't really matter right setup disconnect let's try arming everything everything seems to be good today i'm using some avan props there's lots of good two inch options out there i like these the best the only thing i don't like is that the hubs are extra thick because of their shape so you're going to need some extra long screws doing props on these things are total pain because it's two screws per prop people complain about with the five inch it being one nut no no no what you get to the micros you're getting real tds here for prop direction remember that the props are spinning inwards so you need the airfoil to be oriented the right way we've got a little pad that comes with our frame kit it's for the battery to get a little extra padding just plop that right on there we're just going to run this around the frame under the foreign one look at that it works all right guys that's going to do it for today's build video this is the dribblet micro freestyle drone a lot of fun remember to check the description for a list and links to everything we use today and visit our website rhodorad.com where you can get all the stuff and anything else that you might want so whether this is your first build or you've been building for a while i hope you learned something today thank you guys for joining and we will see you next time