 Hi, what's up you guys? This is your girl, Sewit with Britt and welcome back again to my YouTube channel. Long time no see everyone, it is so good to be back after such a long break from posting content. Anyways, I am back and today we are going to learn the basic bodice block by Helen Joseph Armstrong. To those who are not familiar with Helen Joseph Armstrong, she is the author of Pattern Making for Fashion Design and I must say this book is by far one of the best pattern making books out there in the market and I recommend that you guys get this book. I will put the link down below where you could buy pattern making for fashion design. Before we move on to the tutorial, please be a doll and make sure to hit that subscribe and bell button and if you are new to my channel, make sure to check out my other tutorials as well. So without further ado, let's get this tutorial started. Here are the materials that we need for this tutorial. Pen, not sure for patterns, pencil for drafting, measuring tape, measurements from the model or dress form, fashion rulers, pattern paper and of course your model or dress form. Before we draft our basic bodice, we need to take all of these measurements from our dress form or our model. Please pause this video and copy these required measurements. First, let's take the circumference measurements from our model. Number one, around the bust. Make it sure to position your measuring tape around the largest part of the bust. Number two, around the waist. This is the smallest part of the waist. Number three, abdomen. This is three inches below the waist. Number four, around the hip. Largest part of the hip area, this is usually eight to nine inches from waist, sizes medium to large and six to seven inches from waist, sizes extra small to medium. Important marks for the armhole. Mead armhole. The mead armhole is the same level with the plate screw. Make it sure to pin mark the back and the front. Armhole depth. To locate the armhole depth, measure down from the shoulder tip passing through armhole plate and add four eighths inches and pin mark this location. Next measurements, the front vertical measurements. Number five, front center length. Mark this measurement on the center line from neck to waist. Number six, front full length. Mark this measurement from shoulder at neck going to the waistline parallel to the center line. Number seven, front shoulder slope. Mark this from the center line at the waist to the shoulder tip. Number nine, bust depth or point. Mark this from the shoulder tip going to the largest part of the bust or the nipple area. Next measurements, the back vertical measurements. Number five, back center length. Mark this on the center line from the nape going to the waist. Number six, back full length. Mark this measurement from shoulder at neck going to the waistline. Number seven, back shoulder slope. Mark this from the center line at the waist to the shoulder tip. Number eight, then use trap. Place the tip of the measuring tape at the corner of shoulder at neck to bottom of the waistband at the side seam and record. Next, the front horizontal measurements. Number 10, bust span. Measure the point to point of the bust and divide this measurement by two. Number 14, front across shoulder. From the tip of the shoulder going to the center front neck. Number 15, front across chest. Center front to one inch above mid arm hole. Number 17, bust arc. From center front over bust point ending two inches below arm plate at side seam. Number 19, front waist arc. From center front waist to the side waist seam. Number 20, front dark placement. From center front waist to side front or the princess line of the dress form. For the model, minus five eighths inches from bust span. Number 22, abdomen arc. From center front to side seam starting three inches down from waist. Number 23, front hip arc. From center front to side seam. Number 25, hip depth eight to nine inches from waist or six to seven inches from waist. Next, the back horizontal measurements. Number 12, back neck. From center back neck to shoulder at neck. Number 14, back across shoulder. Same as front. Number 15, back across chest. Same as front. Number 18, back arc. Same as front. Number 19, back waist arc. From center back waist to side waist seam. Number 20, back dark placement. From center back waist to the side front or the princess line of the dress form. Number 22, back abdomen arc. Same as front. Number 23, back hip arc. Same as front. And number 25, back hip depth. Same as front. Next, and the final measurements. The side measurements. Number nine, bust radius. Measure from bust point ending under bust mound. Number 11, side length. Mark below arm plate at side seam to side waist. Number 13, shoulder length. From shoulder tip to neck. Number 26, side hip depth. From side waist to the hip depth line. We are done taking up measurements from our dress form or our model. And these measurements are the measurements that I got from my dress form. Now that we got our measurements, we can now move on to drafting. First step, draw an extended horizontal line. Next, draw an extended vertical line perpendicular to the horizontal. Label the horizontal line B. B to A. Mark up the front full length plus one eighth inches from B. Label this A. C to A. From A, extend the horizontal line and mark in across shoulder less one eighths inches and label this C. From C, square down three inches. B to D. Mark up front center length and label it D. And square a horizontal line from D. D to E. Mark in bust arc plus two eighths inches and label it E. From E, square up 11 inches. B to G. Mark in shoulder slope plus one eighths inches from B. G should touch the C line. G to H. From G, mark in the bust depth or point and label this H. G to I. Mark in the shoulder length and label it I. J to K. Square a horizontal line at the bust point or H. Label it J. From G, mark in the bust span plus two eighths inches and label it K. D to L. Get the measurement from D to J divided by two and square this measurement from D. Label it L. L to M. Mark in front across chest plus two eighths inches and label it M. B to F. From B, mark the front dark placement. On that mark, mark down three sixteenths and label it F. Next draw a slight curve from F to B. I to N. From I, mark the measurement of new strap plus one eighths inches. Intersect this line to E line and label it N. N to O. From N, mark up the side length measurement and label it O. From O, mark in four eighths inches guideline. N to P. Mark out seven eighths inches or one to eight inches from N and label it P. Here's a chart for the bus cop formula. P to O. Connect the mark to O and make it sure that P to O is equal to N to O. Next, extend the guideline from P to F. P to Q. This is the waist arc plus two eighths inches east and minus the measurement from B to F or front dark placement. Mark this measurement from P and label it Q. On the Q mark, mark down three sixteenths and draw a slight curve from Q to P. Q and F to K. Draw the dart legs going to K. From K, mark down five eighths inches and redraw the dart legs on the five eighths mark. Using the French curve, connect G to M, M to O and this is the armhole. Last, connect I to D and this is the front neckline. Label the chest line, bust line, bust point and waist line and we are done with the front but it. Okay, let's now move on to the back bodice drafting. For the back bodice, label the horizontal line B. B to A. Mark up the back full length and label it A. A to C. Square a horizontal line from A. Mark in the back across shoulder and label it C. From C line, square down three inches. B to D. Mark up back center length and label it D. Square a horizontal line from D line. From B, mark in four eighths inches and this will be the new B or line. New B to E. Mark in back arc plus six eighths inches E and label it E. From A line, square up 11 inches. A to F. Mark in back neck plus one eighths inches from A line and label it F. New B to G. Mark up the back shoulder slope plus one eighths inches and label it G. G line should touch the C line. F to H. Mark the shoulder length plus four eighths inches from F and this will pass through the G mark. Label it H. New B to I. Mark in the back guard placement measurement from UB and label it I. New B to J. Mark in waist guard measurement plus one and a half dark intake and two eighths inches E and label it J. I to K. Mark in the dark intake which is one and a half inches. Label the center L and label the dart leg K. J to M. Mark down three sixteenths. Next, mark down one eighths inches past I and K. Next, draw slide curves from I to New B and K to M. M to N. Mark in the side length and label it N. From N, mark in four eighths inches guideline. L to O. Square up the same length as M to N and label it O. Connect I and K to O to complete the back guard. Next, divide F to H and mark the center and label it P. Draw a guideline from P to O for the back shoulder dart. P to Q. Square down three inches from P and label it Q. This is the length of the shoulder dart. Mark two eighths inches on both sides of P and label it R. Next, mark up one eighths inches on both arm marks. Slightly connect to F and H and complete the dart. D to S. Get the one foot measurement of D to B and mark this measurement from D and label it S. S to T. Square a horizontal line from S and mark in the across back plus two eighths inches and label it T. Next, using the French curve connect H to T and T to N and this is the back arm hole. Next, connect F to D and this is the back neckline. New B to S. Connect QB to S. Label chest and waist and back and we are done with the back bodice y'all. And here you go guys. We have completed the front and back bodice. Congratulations guys and we can finally try this on our model or our dress form. So here I am. I am just using another pattern paper to trace my front and back bodice and transfer it on a fabric to see if there are alterations needed for this bodice. So as you guys can see I need to make some little alterations here and there but this pattern looks pretty neat to me and since there are added ease we cannot avoid altering our pattern but that's okay. I am satisfied with the bodice that I made and I hope you guys are too. Anyways you guys thank you for watching and again don't forget to subscribe to my youtube channel SewItBitBit and be part of our growing community. I'll see you guys again on the next tutorial. Bye!