 Hi you guys, Lindsay here. Welcome back to my channel inside the hem. So we are continuing right along with our sew-along for Vogue 9351 Today we are gonna be making this jacket here To go over our jumpsuit that we made in last week's video So some things to note from about the jacket. First of all, you are going to have a separate Back piece. There's actually a back piece just for the lining and that's because the lining actually has a fold like a crease or a pleat along the center back to give you some room to move your elbows and your shoulders and like round your back so that you don't feel like you're gonna rip the jacket open Secondly, you are going to need obviously all of your Main fabric pieces need to be cut and all of your lining pieces need to be cut The only exception is with piece number one piece number one gets four of Your main fabric cut and no lining everything else gets either one or two lining and one or two Main fabric, this is because the front piece also creates a self-facing So that whenever you if you were to turn the collar out you would see the main fabric and not the lining So once you get everything cut out like I have here, this is just what I need for the lining I've actually already went ahead and prepared the body of the jacket Because I thought it was gonna be easier to show you guys How to construct the jacket if I were using the lining pieces because that plaid can be a little bit Distracting and hard to see so I thought the contrast of the black with the plaid especially around this collar area where it's like the most tricky and also the Princess seams it would be easier. So I went ahead and constructed that but I'm gonna walk through how to construct The lining with you the construction for the lining and the outer is the exact same it's just different just one different pattern piece and different fabrics for most of the Construction does that make sense? Okay for your jacket. You're also gonna need one button. Here is what I chose I am so excited. It is like this epic half like What are they called? disco ball It's like a half disco ball with like black Stones, it is really pretty and I thought it would look really good Against the plaid and it was very like holiday and very special So I really love it. You're also gonna need some half inch shoulder pads. I got mine online I will leave a link in the description box for you These are not the kind of shoulder pads from the 80s that are going to make you look like a linebacker These are nice shoulder pads that'll just give you a little bit of shaping Along the shoulder and is what create a really beautiful tailored Um looking jacket. So Have those handy as well. All right. So the first bit of construction. Well, I guess we should refer to the Instruction booklet the jacket comes first So it's the very first thing listed And that is to interface all of your pieces. So I did that on my main body Really, you're just interfacing piece one and it is for the outer main fabric So most of you will be constructing your Outer the outer layer of your jacket with me during this sew along. So go ahead and Adhere your interfacing there Then you are going to take that same piece one again This is my lining. So mine is uninterfaced but yours will be interfaced and you are going to stay stitch right along This corner here and then you are going to clip A actually cut through your fabric to the corner of that stitching where that dot is So the dot here is very critical for you to mark Exactly where it is. I find it also helpful to draw in The stitching lines a couple of inches this way and a couple of inches this way because Your eye kind of wants to play tricks on you and kind of wants to tell you that that's not five eighths of a seam You know what I mean? Um, but whenever you Place your five eighths ruler along your edge. You'll see that it does intersect With that dot So you can draw a couple of inches that way And it comes right over that dot and then same thing here A couple of inches this way. I love this little five eighths inch ruler. This came from lunographics co I think it was like a free gift in one of the purchases that I made if you've ever bought the curve runner Or any of her other rulers. Maybe you got one of these two. I love this thing I use it more often than I use my seam gauge if I'm being honest Um, okay digressing though, but you see that stitching line right there and how it intersects that little dot So go over to your sewing machine. Um, do a little stay stitch clip to that seam there on both of the um Number ones that you have I guess it's the jacket front. Is that what they're calling it the front? Yeah And then um, we'll be back here and I'll show you some tricks for sewing the princess seam here Okay, so the first step in Getting a princess seam zone is to stay stitch between these two Notches and you can see that I have done that here And what makes sewing princess seems so tricky is that basically you are trying to fit this concave curve into this con vex curve and it's like Two curves that really don't look like they should be able to fit together like at all. Um, but with a little bit of easing and and Nudging along you can get them to go together. Um, it's easier than it looks It just needs a little bit of detailed attention. So what I like to do first is to take the first notch on the side piece which is all the way up here above this curve and match that with the first notch of The front piece and this little tail is actually going to match up with that um, little hard angled out Edge of the front too and then I also like to pin them in a way where the Side piece is what is going to be laying against the machine You'll see why here in a second Okay, then take your second little notch and match that up with the second notch of the front Like so and then this pattern actually has the Front piece a little bit shorter than the side and back pieces So that whenever you go to make your bottom hem Everything falls into place nicely. That'll be easier to see as we get going here But basically you have this dot on your side piece and then you have another dot on your um front piece and you just need to line those two up So if you try to Line up the raw edges together, it's not going to work out and this could be the reason why They are only going to line up to like five eighths from the edge of the front piece and maybe this is like Five eighths plus the hem. I'm not sure the exact measurement of that dot, but Either way, then you fill in with the rest of your pins like you normally would But whenever you get up to the curve Let's go ahead and get this guy in too Okay, but when you get to the curve you can see that it doesn't look like these two Really want to go together all that well. It's like this Curve is smaller than this curve. So that is why we made those Those stay stitches because now you need to go in and clip two but not through your stay stitching that way whenever you Push these two raw edges together within the seam line the front piece is going to spread apart so that it can fit into the um Side piece and when you line up your raw edges like so And pin them the raw edges actually do come together with a little bit of a a wedge of spacing But your seam line, which is where the stay stitching is is preserved always You didn't cut through that line. So there is no spreading going at the seam line It's starting just shy of the seam line within the seam allowance. So that's how your um style line And the you know design of the pattern is maintained That's how you prevent any bubbles from going in so on and so forth. So basically you just want to kind of use Your fingers on the back side to kind of press all these together Rearrange them, you know as you as you see fit in order to get them to all lay flat They will go in I promise You will be able to get all of this together in one smooth little bit But there is a little bit of wrinkling wrinkliness Going on in on the side piece. That's normal But that is also why I like to put the side piece against the faceplate of the sewing machine Because that's also where the feed dogs are. So the feed dogs are going to help smooth all of this out Um as it gets fed through The machine it'll help smooth all these little bumps right along the seam line Um As it goes through the machine what you can't see and what's not totally obvious to you at this point is that at the seam line The front piece and the side piece do have matching arcs It's just outside the seam line within the seam allowance. Those arcs do not match And that's just some of the trickery and creating that beautiful shaping of a princess seam So let me get this through the machine and show you what it looks like Okay, here is one of our Front like the front I guess our front right piece and you can see how beautifully those two Go together at the seam line even though your seam allowance is a little on the crazy side But no one will ever see that and we're also going to press out a bunch of it Which is where our taylor's ham comes into place again. I talked about this um in the jumpsuit video with the back darts and it comes into play again here because again you want to mimic that 3d kind of bulge that's a terrible word but that um That room that the princess seam creates for a breast Using the taylor's ham. So I think that they want us to press these seams open. Yeah, so we're going to end up pressing these seams open so you want to open them up along the taylor's ham and then use the point of the ham in the like pointiest part, you know in this pointy part of the Jacket and then you'll be able to press those open nice and flat, you know using this curve kind of as a guide Helping you because if you try to do this flat similar with those Pants darts you can tell there's like a little bubble there and it's not going to want to lay completely flat And if it does then there's going to be wrinkling in other areas that you'll end up pressing into your garment So you don't want to do that. So I'm going to press this open and then Joy you guys get a ton of practice at princess seams So we're going to do the exact same thing for the other Front piece and the other side front piece Then you're going to do it all over again for the back And the side back. So all in all you're going to have four princess seams I will say the back pieces if you've never ever done a princess seam before maybe start with the back Because they aren't as dramatic in terms of the curves that have to get matched up together It's a little bit easier to ease these in together. So maybe start with that So we'll meet back here after you get your front constructed and your back constructed The next step in attaching the front and the back together Is where the one step collar kind of comes into place and that can be a little tricky So I'm going to show you guys that Next after all these pieces get sewn Okay, so a little bit of a Note that I wanted to make so you guys are probably all Through step four and we're about to approach step five But when you're doing your front facing and lining there's actually an error in the pattern Um, and it's kind of a simple one. They just uh repeated a paragraph that They didn't need Like they shouldn't have so here This paragraph here pin side front blah blah blah all the way down to this forming a facing Um belongs there, but it got repeated over here in the next step So step 11 is just this first paragraph and all of this is Extra. So don't let that confuse you. This is just I don't know they copy and pasted it twice for some reason. Okay. Um Yeah, so just wanted to make a little note about that um Let's see. So we are on step five where we are going to be attaching Attaching the front to the back at the shoulder and the collar and this is going to be a little bit I don't know fiddly. It's not necessarily difficult. Um, it's just A little bit fiddly that's the way to say it. Okay. So we have right sides together Let's move the sleeve out of the way Um, and you'll see here when you get to your lining um It makes a really beautiful like pleat in the back So that you can move your shoulders And kind of like bend over if you need and there's like all this extra ease built in To the center back. It's a really nice detail that is done on some coat linings. Okay. So we've got our Back lining and then here is the front or you've got your back Where this is a solid seam And the front so we want to line them up right sides together Oh, wait, I forgot a step. We need to sew the neckline together Duh, okay. So right sides together like this Um, you stitch along this little guy here There should be like three little notches in there and this is going to be your center back Neck seam. So before you attach them To before you attach the front to the back you need to sew this so let me go take care of that Okay, so we have our back facing up We have our front Facing down right sides together Make it this laid out appropriately so you guys can kind of tell what's going on here All right, so You get it laid out a little bit like this where your arm size are both on the same side Um to arm size here. Okay. So then you have your shoulder seam Um, this is your shoulder seam of the back piece and this is the shoulder seam of the front piece everything from the edge Up to that dot and you'll notice that these two pieces are not the same Length and that is correct. So don't be discouraged. These are supposed to be eased in together Um, and it even says on your pattern piece that the shoulder seams are eased and it says in the instruction booklet so booklet Booklet um, so Don't be too nervous about that. Um, it's it's supposed to be Um eased in but basically what you're trying to accomplish here is you see this dot on your back shoulder So I like to put a pin through that dot and that dot gets matched up With this dot that you clipped to and you did all the edge stitching for all the way in the very beginning of this video You put those two together I mean you have a few little threads that you're pinning into on the front side um And line those up like so making sure that the pin is basically Sticking straight through and it's not kind of turned to the side or anything Um, you want the pin to be sticking straight through and that's how you know that they are properly aligned take another pin and Stick it through the seam line like so and then ease in the rest of this So that they come together to form um A shoulder seam like so Okay, so now you've got one shoulder seam, right? Now you need to kind of we can take Well, let's leave that in there for a moment. Now you need to kind of turn the corner And sew the collar So this is this entire neckline is now your collar and so you want to match up the center back um Neckline and the center back back seam like so And put a pin through there and now you're trying to get all of this to match up So I have clipped my back piece to the stay stitching similar exactly how we did for the princess seams But what you'll notice is our little pin here that's keeping the dots together is like Moving around a bunch. So and there's also like a lot of fabric kind of right here where this little Intersection is occurring. So what you're trying to do is you're going to end up stitching All along this stitch line and then when you get to your dot you're going to pivot And then stitch along this line. So you need to make this Uh, best way to explain it is as is as straight as possible Um, sorry. I'm so shaky. I just drank my breakfast smoothie and it's like freezing. I'm so cold. Um So I'm all shaky trying to get these pins in Um, they need to do some jumping jacks or something more myself up um So Put some pins in like this. Do you see what I mean about it? Not being difficult, but just fiddly Like you want those dots to still be lined up But you have all this extra fabric and if you so if you just sew across that fabric Then you are going to get a pucker and you definitely don't want a pucker. So Try and keep the dots lined up and also get all this fabric to kind of lay Flat so you might be putting some pins in some weird places But always always keep in mind that we are only truly worried about what is happening on the seam line So if I've got this pucker here that really doesn't matter so long as it's flat right along that seam line So put in as many pins as you feel like you need Um, so that you can get this to lay Perfectly flat. I think I'm good with that. Um, also a tip for In based on experiences. I like to do this in two parts So I will just handle one side up to the center seam And then do it all over again for the other side because it's just too much for me to think about getting both sides perfect Um, but what we're looking for is here it is on my outer jacket This is the kind of seam that we are making And you want to get that to be perfectly flat with no puckering Um whatsoever. Here's another example So that is what makes our kind of shoulder seam and our collar ends up looking something like Something like that see Okay, so let me go try and Navigate this seam here. I'm gonna go ahead and do both both sides and show you what it looks like Okay, let's see how we did So you can tell from the right side that We've got a beautiful little seam there with no puckering You can feel that the shoulder seam is eased in which is really nice That again creates some beautiful shaping whenever we go to add our, um Shoulder pads. So there we go. So I just need to press this out and then attach the sleeves. Um Okay, so here's what a constructed sleeve looks like you have your dart pressed down Then you have your sleeve seam with the seam allowances pressed open and then You have your basting stitches um that are sewn between the two Between this dot all the way around to this dot again, I don't mark the dots. I just clip to there because it's not super important That it starts and stops exactly where that is. Um, I also snip the shoulder seam Dot too. I don't um Actually mark that dot a little bit of a cheater, but I've never had an issue with it So feel free to snip instead of mark your dot there too. Okay So now I like to turn my sleeve right side out and then turn my jacket Wrong side out just personal preference Um You know as you get to make in sleeves, you will find whichever one's more comfortable for you as well Okay, so I like to turn my sleeve right side out and then turn my jacket Wrong side out just a personal preference. This is just like just how I like to set in sleeves Once you do them a bunch, you'll figure out your preference as well Okay on the sleeve there are going to be a couple indicators that you need to look for First of all, you're going to have one side that has two notches and another side that only has one notch And then you also have your dart So the side with the two notches and the dart is the back Of your sleeve and the side with one notch and no dart is the front of your sleeve So you need to make sure that when you Slip the sleeve Into the body of the jacket like so That you are matching up your fronts and backs For example, if I add it this way This has one notch here and also The facing so I know ahead of time and the one notch does not match up with the two notches So this is the wrong arm hole to put the sleeve in I need to take the sleeve out Find the other arm hole like so Put the sleeve inside that arm hole Matching up the side seams and like a magic You have your double notches matching up and you know that the back of your jacket Is where the back of your sleeve is also so just pin all the way around and when you get up to Shoulder seam Match the shoulder seam with Hello, sonny Match the shoulder seam with that notch that you made Like so and then you'll notice that there's like a lot more sleeve than there is arm hole Which is why we have these basting stitches. So you will pull those I don't know what he is Working at he can barely see barely here so maybe He's got a figment of his imagination is going wild Okay, and you have your little notch where the dot was that notch is where matches up with that dot You see what I mean? It comes together pretty easily. Um, if you have if you have everything marked But take your basting stitches from the wrong side and pull those up And you will get the sleeve to ease in to that Don't do it more than you need to just enough and again, you want to make sure your seam line The second set of stitches is super flat. So once you kind of get all that Thittiliness done and you have it pinned all around The sleeve does come together really easily especially with practice. So go ahead and add both of your sleeves and we'll meet back here Okay, I've got my entire sleeve sewn and in honor of full transparency. I wanted to show you even I Still get these little weird puckers So I think it depends a lot on the fabric too. This lining is like not my favorite um, it just has no give and You can hear very polyester-y. Um, anyways, so when you get a little pucker like that Obviously, you need to get it out Um, it's very simple to do. Well, usually You just want to grab your seam ripper And cut those few threads A couple inches or like maybe an inch Before and an inch after and then you smooth it out And then put some more pins in It's usually just the ease not being evenly distributed in that one little area for some reason And so once you kind of get it sorted it comes back together So see how that's nice and flat now So that'll sew up really nicely and I had another one. So I'll get that one and then attach the outer sleeve Okay, so our Jacket is complete. You either have an outer shell or if you were working on the lining like me You have your completed lining um, so whichever one you did Repeat it all and do the exact same thing for the other one so that Like me, you now have Two versions one with lining fabric and one with main fabric So we're gonna talk a little bit about shoulder pads and before you all go. Oh, I don't know like 1980s linebacker. I already have big shoulders I don't want them to look any bigger than they already are Just pause for a moment before any of those thoughts enter your mind A couple things to consider with that number one This pattern was drafted with a shoulder pad in mind So the top of your sleeve cap is A little bit larger to accommodate for this padding. So if you don't put it in you are going to have Not an ill-fitting garment. Maybe most people's naked eye wouldn't Realize that but you will have a garment that isn't fitting the way that it's intended to So you don't need to get something super thick. You can see here. This is like A half inch um shoulder pad. It's not like the ones from the 80s that are like two inches You're not even going to notice that this is in there Except for the fact that it is going to provide some beautiful shaping to the shoulder and to the part where your sleeve drops off of Your shoulder, you know, like the top part of your arm, I guess is Um, how I would describe it. Okay. So in order to put these in it's it's actually Very simple. Um, but what you'll need to do is Fold it in half like so and then place a pin In the top like so and also A little pin in the bottom not all the way through just, you know So you can kind of tell where the center is then you place the this edge the like foamy edge On the edge of the seam allowance. It does not go within the seam allowance like this It goes on the raw edge and then put your pin sort of eyeballing where the Shoulder seam line is like so And then it gets tacked down Actually way down here on the corners You're not sewing through any of this you're sewing through this kind of like surged edge So kind of wrap it around give yourself some don't make this super taut, you know Kind of give yourself a little bit of moving room Place it here Pin it and then the ow I got myself and then um the last place you're going to pin is On the shoulder seam Make sure the raw edges are where they should make sure the pin is where the shoulder seam is Push place everything down you can take this guy out and then this goes within the seam allowance there Now you want to try this on to make sure that You know, you've got enough The same thing with the bra cups that we did for the jumpsuit You just want to make sure that there's like enough room and um Ease within the fold of it that it hangs that it hangs right But I just wanted to illustrate how You know the placement of the of the shoulder pass I just tried on make sure it's comfortable if you need to move some of these around make them closer together That's all perfectly fine. And then you just hand stitch or even machine stitch, you know, just tack it down within the seam allowance up your jacket and then you get a beautiful shoulder seam or a beautiful shoulder like drape over your body's shoulder I encourage you to try them you can easily take them out Um, but I promise that you if you are worried about them making you look broader than you are You might be surprised especially with these like thinner ones. It really just creates some nice shaping Okay, are you guys ready to? Make some magic happen. All right, we've got our Main shell and we've got our lining everything is completely prepared except for the Hems and like, you know this entire Collar piece. Um, we've got our shoulder pads in we've got our interfacing in everything's ready to go We've got a right side out jacket and an inside out lining Let me flip this inside out really quick and you are going to lay them on top of each other And go ahead and insert the sleeves into the the sleeves of the lining into the sleeves of The jacket make sure you have the You know left sleeve with the left sleeve and the right sleeve with the right sleeve and you might think that that's silly but You're not thinking and sometimes you make really weird mistakes, right? And you come to the edge of the sleeve like so you Fold under the seam allowance of the lining and the Main shell you see how I have both of those folded under Then you reach into your jacket between the shell and the lining Into the sleeve so I'm in between the shell and the lining of the sleeve right now and you reach up in here and you You pinch the Folded in seam allowances that you just folded over so You can see I have my forefinger here and my thumb here and I am pinching These two together right then you pull it inside out like so And you've you're holding them in a particular way whenever you do that And so you just start pinning the raw edges together And I know it seems like I'm just sewing them right sides together But as you go around the circle keeping those raw edges together What you'll find is that it's actually Only the seam allowances I guess that are wrong sides together. It's not a good way of explaining it And the rest of them are like not together at all it makes like a tube within a tube Can you guys tell what's happening? Oh, hopefully visually you can see what's going on Otherwise, I promise like once you pinch the seam allowances and pull it through and start pinning like I am You'll see How it's coming together what I'm you'll see what I'm trying to explain I guess But you just pin a few times around the circle, obviously I make sure that the um Under arm seams are matching up And what you get is Like the lining sleeve tube kind of Folded into the main body tube pinned wrong sides to I mean pinned right sides together but not with any not Oh god not Two tubes inside of each other. Oh lord. I'm doing a terrible job verbalizing this But hopefully you guys can tell sort of what's going on by looking at it here Um, and so when you sew it up, I'll show you what it looks like when you pull it out And maybe that will help you understand what's happening too Okay, so we have our lining completely sewn to our main fabric And I'm going to try and show you what happens whenever you pull them Apart or like put them back together, but basically you Start to turn your lining jacket right side out and then your Main fabric goes something like that It's in that beautiful And absolutely zero hand sewing whatsoever So some things to keep in mind are that you have Per your pattern piece cut the lining shorter than the Shell so naturally the shell is going to Um be longer and therefore pull the lining Into place. So I sew these at a 5 eighths inch Seam and when I pull them in then I get this beautiful one inch like natural Roll. Okay, so after we get both sleeves sewn. Here's what we have two beautifully hemmed sleeves with the main fabric rolling under Nicely so that it doesn't stick out from the Right side, which is great Okay, so after your sleeves are Hemmed You want to place the jacket and the lining right sides together And you are going to sew around the perimeter of the collar all the way down the um I guess this is like the front now um Stopping when you get to the hem and then also sewing your little Notch, this is what's going to be your little um lapel notch So I stitched up this way Back stitched a bunch came down here back stitched on both sides of the little um I don't know corner And they came up here and back stitched on both sides of this as well before carrying on through the center front Now you have to sort of this is always so nerve wracking to me anytime. I have to just like Go for it and cut into a perfectly good Jacket it is I don't know I don't I mean, I know I've not done anything wrong like I followed the instructions But this is this part is tough for me. It's just like, you know, you just got to go for it But um, they don't show this step in the instructions uh I don't know if that's interesting to me or not, but um It you could almost miss it if you aren't reading the steps, you know, super accurately But basically you you know reinforce all these edges and then you cut through All of this into this little Point here, um cutting all the way like to the point as far as you can Without going through it. Oh god this just goes against everything that You think is right Okay, it's done. Um, no turning back now and then you um, trim this up Like so Just make it nice and tidy on the inside Okay, and so you end up with something like that. Um, now you are also going to uh Trim this entire seam and then you're also going to under stitch it and that's why you haven't done the bottom hem yet So you want to reach up in here and um, so the seam allowances to the lining Um, and that's just going to keep everything kind of pulled toward the inside of the jacket So you don't see your seam um from the outside Okay, so let's take a look at the insides of what all this looks like whenever you are Completely done sewing them together under stitching Clipping to the little point and you need to trim real close to these Two uh points here so that whenever you turn it right side out, especially this one There is as little bit of bulk as possible. So hopefully you can see with the contrast thread. I'm using there that um You know, I just got as close as I could um without Cutting into that stitching real close Real close. Okay. So then after you do that you turn it right sides out And give it a really good press with lots and lots of steam um using a point turner to really get in to this point especially and slowly Working that fabric around the point turner But also gently like you can't be too aggressive or else Your tool will come right through your Your corner there. So just Do what you can to get as much of that fabric. Um out there as possible Give it a really good press And then you will end up with something like this. I've got some cleaning up to do with some of those threads um, but you can see um kind of what that Collared lapel is going to look like Okay, we've got one more step before we can sew up the bottom hem. Um, you are going to Turn your lining up and out of the way like so and then you're going to reveal both of your neck or collar seams, right? So You are going to take these two things And sew the seam allowances of the neckline together Like so the pattern says to do this by hand, but I'm going to try and do it on my machine I'm just going to do a wide zigzag and just try and keep it within this seam allowance and see how good of a job That I can do on that. Um, but basically you're trying to take some of the pressure off of this seam here so that whenever you're wearing the jacket the outer part doesn't like pull The collar down. Um, so you're just sewing these together to reinforce it. So that collar which is now Sandwiched up in here like this so the collar can stand up Really well without taking on too much of the weight of the jacket So I'm going to try and do this on the machine. I'll let y'all know how it goes Okay, I'm going to say that was successful. I was able to keep it within the seam allowance It doesn't cross the little seam line there and everything is all nice and tidy So feel free to do a little cheater method and go throw it through your machine with like I just set the zigzag on the widest for both of the length and the width so Okay, so now we get to the hem and this part is really fun to me because There are a lot of really fun things built into the hem that you might not notice right off the bat But whenever you sewed your Little I don't know front the front rounded hem part You probably did notice that there was a lot of maybe not so Familiar stuff happening here. First of all, this is really short Then the lining is shorter than that and then here comes the hem of the jacket And so what you don't realize is that there is ease built into the hem So that this lining is actually going to create a really long pleat all across the bottom So that whenever you bend over or raise your arms, it doesn't pull the entire jacket up It just gently lifts the lining up Which is why it doesn't look like any of these things are going to go together But whenever you pull the lining To the raw edge of the Jacket, you will realize that all of this stuff actually does come together It's kind of hard to show now just in the pinning process, but let me pin it and um Sew it and then I'll show you what it looks like, but don't forget to leave a hole Um with no stitching so that you can pull your jacket right side out Otherwise you've just got a completely Closed up jacket and there's no way to turn it right side out. Um, so do uh Line of stitching and a lot of back stitching and then start over here a lot of back stitching and finish your seam that way Okay, so I've got my hem completely sewn except for this one little area here and I tend to get a little bit stubborn And make that hole small so that I have to do less hand stitching um Sometimes it creates an issue when it comes to turning it out because you were literally going to Give birth basically. I mean, I've never given birth before to a human being but I've given birth to lots of jackets um, so you just want to kind of like I don't know Shove the jacket through the hole. This is whenever I start to second guess the size of the hole If I've made it too small or not but inevitably with enough Pressure and try not to stretch out anything at the same time mind you because I'm trying to be a little bit gentle You get a jacket With a pin stuck to it, um And you pull out the sleeve like so Find the other sleeve Oh lordy Um going this way kind of get it into place. Okay Now we sort of have A jacket you get all these little fiddly bits that you've already pressed in place So they should kind of come together pretty easily. Oh my gosh, you guys This is the first time i'm seeing it This is like a live reaction. Look how cute The shoulder pads aren't in place, but um Anyways, you get the idea of what we are working with here. Okay. So on the bottom hem This is what I was trying to explain to you guys about the Lining so when you sew all that together, this is what that little intersection Of course, I haven't pressed any of this But this is what that little intersection ends up looking like everything here is matched up and then you have this pleat um in your lining so that whenever you Raise your arms or bend over or Whatever you're doing. It is a holiday outfit. Could be doing some dancing You have a little bit of wiggle room there. So the whole jacket doesn't pull up So it is a really really super cool detail. I love whenever blazers have that okay, so now you want to just kind of get everything into place and Press this bottom hem You're going to kind of press this up and this over and then hand stitch that clothes and folks We have a drum roll, please a completed blazer Jacket I have a lot of fiddling to do apparently um this something Is not wanting to be right about this sleeve. I feel like is the problem Anyways, um, there we go So, yeah, you just need to spend a lot of time at your iron pressing everything into place and then can't forget Lord, I might have lost it by now um our Lovely button gets sewn right on Let me show you what mine is going to look like Oh my gosh, so excited. Look how cute that is. That's probably not the right placement for it But I do feel like it's in this little crook somewhere Oh, so I get to hand sew that on as well All right, so that is going to do it for me today. Um in this third Uh video in our sew along next week you guys will see Uh the completed look of the jumpsuit and the jacket all put together and completely sewn very exciting times around here Oh my god, I just love this button. Never sewed one on like that before. Look at that shank interesting, huh? Anyways, okay, so yeah, I'm gonna finish her up and we will be all done Thank you all so much for watching and I will see you all very soon. Bye