 My name is David Lawrence, regional sanctioned agent in Central Alabama and we're going to talk briefly on brown rock control and peach production if I can advance my slide. Okay, so brown rock is caused by monolenia species most commonly here in the southeast. It's monolenia fruticula and it's one of the most commonly or one of the most economically damaging pathogens in peach production. And one of the reasons for that is because it basically is a threat to the peach all the way from bloom to harvest. And so when we're looking at controlling brown rock we need to look at it as a season long management strategy. So brown rock gets out of the publicity and the attention because as you can see the picture on the left how ugly that is you spend all year producing this nice ripe fruit and you get within a week of harvest and then two days later it looks like this. But it also can affect a bloom we call that blossom blight and then from those blossom blights we get twig blight or canker which we will discuss briefly because like I said we kind of need to look at controlling these this blossom blight to help us prevent inoculum for brown rock later in the season. The blossom blight uh flowers will wilt and turn brown. You'll see this gummy substance that comes from the blossom and this produces inoculum for brown rock on mature fruit. So if you get this on one of your twigs in your tree the rest of the fruit that are good are susceptible to this you know getting these spores on them. So we really got to focus on keeping our cover sprays out there. On this picture I just took a knife and this you know this disease isn't too far developed at this point. I took a knife and you can already see the canker on the stems and so typically this canker will girdle the shoot and create tip dieback. These leaves will turn brown and everything from that point forward will need to be pruned out because it would like to stay a predict inoculum for future infection. You see the picture there that is a mummy from the previous year and so there we are already in the shrug split stage of development from this year and there's still mummies on the tree from last year so those should have been knocked off. I understand you know if you've got a hundred acres of peach trees it's hard to knock every one of those off but if at all possible get those out of the field or get them off the tree at least not possible get them out of the field but at least knock them off the tree. Typically see this when we get into 70 to 78 degree temperatures so in the springtime when those temperatures start feeling good outside that's when this disease is most prevalent. In extended bloom periods it's hard to keep cover sprays or preventative fungicide applications out there when we have prolonged bloom periods like most diseases, frequent rain events and then like I said mummies being present in the field. Okay so brown rite. Brown rite starts at a small round spot on fruit it'll eventually cover the fruit and usually it's fairly quick these like the picture before these mummies typically stay on the tree and produce spores for future infections and spread by wind rain insects and even harvesting you know we'll walk through the field it's tempting to reach up there if you see one of these grab it off and throw it on the ground but then you're spreading that by the spores on your hand. If nobody's ever seen this in person you can walk up and just pretty much blow on one of these peaches and it's just a powder just a fuzz so it easily spreads from fruit to fruit. It's more susceptible to brown rite injury these are all extreme examples but I'm just you know if you see fruit this this damaged go ahead knock it off because it will get brown rite more than likely and then that's just going to create more spores for infecting your healthy fruit. Just in case you're curious go and left to right you got bird damage got cracking from expanding too rapidly bacterial spot stink bugs and then the far right is what I believe is cold damage pit is basically damaged from the inside out and you can already see some brown rite or monolanny of green fruit rite on the bottom of that fruit. Preventing it pruning you know pruning is essential for peach production and increases air movement increases sunlight we remove that disease wood that is you know the noculeum for future infections removing those mummies thinning thinning is important and I put on there prior to pit hardening any thinning practice is typically done before pit hardening but if that can if it's done before pit hardening the fruit pretty much lays on the ground and shrivels up and goes away it won't develop brown rite if it's after pit hardening typically it'll lay there produce brown rite site selection like any orchard anything anytime you can get it up on a high elevation side with good air movement the better off you're going to be and then fungicides we'll spend the next couple slides looking at fungicides using an air blast sprayer sprayer is pretty important air blast sprayer besides having multiple tips the fan really blows that spray into that tree if you've never seen one it's this a lot of wind it bends those branches back and really opens up that canopy where that spray can penetrate the canopy of that tree high gpa we typically spray at least 100 gallons to the acre and then like I said the next few slides we're going to talk about rotating fungicide groups these are some of the fungicides that we spray um if you want to take a picture of this I'm going to kind of go through it fast but I have the inferences there with each product is the frat group um main thing when we're looking at season long uh fungicide program is want to be sure to rotate these groups um oh there's going to be kind of a season long look at what your spray program could be this is for a low to medium brown right pressure we want to start our sprays during bloom and those are some of the products that are available um you know you can swap these around just because I have it in bloom doesn't mean you can't spray it later in the season as long as it's not one of these at the bottom of the screen uh in vanguard is not not labeled after bloom row rule is not labeled after petal fall and bravo is not labeled after shuck split um but you can you can alternate some of these other ones if you know if they're not if some of these aren't working for you if you have resistance issues um so we pretty much want to get at least one good bloom spray um shuck split is a critical time for cap control as well I really like to spray bravo during the split um if this was a blank slate the first thing I would come in here and write down is bravo and then I would build my program uh after that um I can is pretty much the interview standard for cover sprays during the summer and then once we get into um you know the two weeks before harvest uh 14 days and seven days that's when we start rotating in some of those other fungicides uh these here on the 14 days those are all 7 11's um those are probably the best option that we have for brown rock control I like to get those on there uh about two weeks before harvest and then rotate to uh something else these are these are threes uh inspire super the nine and three um we'll look at our brown rock pressure man it added another brunt bloom spray so we had two blooms uh a shuck split cover sprays and then added in another pre-harvest um basically just add man tops man with cap tan I always recommended to add tops man with tan just to reduce any resistance issues and then picking one of the 7 11's and then picking one of these threes uh important most of our fungicides have a zero day pre-harvest interval uh inspire super linen sensation are only two that have more than a zero day so it's always important to pay attention to that since we're spraying around harvest time um you know I have one here 21 14 and seven that hardly ever happens uh it's a good plan but you deal with rain you deal with harvesting you deal with um you know windy days so you know it may be 10 days it may be three days you just need to at least get some of these for ease out um before harvest and then here's one I just made an example program I selected some of these products um if I was going to spray peaches that's what I would do and then so in bloom pick the vanguard it is not labeled after bloom it's a group nine and so that lets if we don't use it here we're not able to use it anywhere else and so the same thing with overall top or down um group two if we don't use it here at petal fall we can't use it anywhere else and so those are both really good products for uh blossom blight and we move into bravo which is you know good for uh brown rod as well but it also really good for uh scab and then we spray tap tan and then getting our tops in them pristine and indoor which are all different different groups um and their scholar is a post harvest application uh a dip um most people don't do that but I just listened on here just so you can see see it in a program uh but you know here here's pretty good program a lot of rotation um I would say this is probably the best best effort for reducing resistance uh fine summary um just orchard maintenance pruning keeping your orchard clean is going to help you um down the road when it gets when it gets time to get into harvest season um pulling insects to prevent entry a lot of stink bugs or shark fears they they break the skin um you know that having that ammage fruit uh makes that fruit more susceptible to brown rod injury and then fungicide these are all preventative fungicides these aren't these aren't uh for controlling measures they're all prevented so be sure to rate those and um hopefully everyone have a good season and I believe that is it for me I know that was kind of fast anybody has any questions there's my contact information and thank you all so much