 Hey guys, Brian here from freesalanaeducation.com with step 5, your 14 steps to becoming a better hair colorist. Today, I wanted to go over a little bit of the foundations of foiling. Not going to get into any crazy placements or anything like that because I trust all of you to take the knowledge that you have and create that yourself. I just wanted to go over a little bit of the understanding of why and when we bring foiling into our toolbox of hair coloring techniques. First off, I think you need to understand that the point of foiling is to segregate and or incubate any hair that you want to color or lighten. It keeps it away from the other hair and it will help if you're using lightener just to give it that little bit of warmth and that incubation that you're going to need to really amp it up and get that nice bright tone. There are two ways to go about placing the foil into the head. There is the slicing technique and then there's the weave. It took me a second. It's the visual that helps. The weave technique and the slice technique. The slice is going to come out more like a sheet of blonde and the weave is obviously going to be a nice woven, more of a sporadic, banded effect through the head. I wanted to show you guys just a couple of the ways that I like to make sure that my foils are in there nice and secure because I do a lot of coloring in between my foils so I've found that this method of placing the foil in the hair is going to lock it into place really well so that you can move that foil back and forth without worrying about it sliding. When applying foils to the head you're going to want to always start from the bottom of your panel towards the top because that way any hair, you won't have to worry about your previously done foils getting in your way. If they're at the bottom then it's out of the way so that we can go ahead and move on to the next section. As we move up here we bring our section down keeping in mind that however much hair you put into the foil obviously is how much lighter that hair is going to be if you're using lightener. What I mean by that is if you foil over 50% of the head then over 50% of the hair is going to become lighter and you're going to have a greater shift in their natural base color when you're done. So we're going to come, use your tool, I like a chopstick whether you prefer to use a chopstick, foil comb, kitchen knife, I don't know, whatever makes you feel best. We're going to take that section, I bring my foil in, lift that section up nice and high because that's going to allow you to get right into that root so that you can get that foil as close as possible, pull down, remove the tool and then you can see you've got that foil right in up against the scalp so that when that you won't have to hear from that guest can you get the foils closer next time because you got it as close as it can possibly go. Take your lightener, as you're pulling the hair down taut to hold it up against that foil, I'm going to start around the upper part of the mid shaft and then slowly work my way towards that root making sure not to go overboard or too close to prevent any bleed marks. You're going to apply that all the way down if this is the second time that you're or if this is not the first time that you're highlighting that hair there's a chance that you're not going to need to highlight those ends or want to so I'll come down as far as you want that highlight to come and I like to fold my foils in threes so with those ends not being done I'll lighten down to where that first crease is going to be so here's that first crease I'll pull the hair out of the side lock that down and then I'll fold again bringing it all the way up to the top now that those are lined up we're going to come in lock down those sides and now we're not compromising the integrity of the ends but now that foil is locked in there nice and tight so it can be moved back and forth should you need to move it for coloring in between or just moving it out of your way whatever you need to do so I hope that helps keep in mind you've got a nice round shape so I want to see some really cool techniques that you guys come up with about applying your foils to the head so be sure to subscribe to us on YouTube check us out on Facebook that's where I hope to see your pictures Instagram everything on social media just find us and show us what you guys got thank you very much and stay tuned for step 6 and 14 steps to become a better hair color