 Hi you guys, I am Lindsay and this is my YouTube channel Inside the Hem. Welcome to another Sew Along. This one is for the Seamwork Fallon Jogger Woven Pants, a brand new pattern from them. I had so much fun sewing this one and I think you will too. Today's video is all about the front and back pockets. So we're going to do the slash pockets, we're going to do the knee patch and we're going to do the back pocket. If you missed episode zero, that is where I cover all the prep work like fitting and fabric choices and ready to wear inspiration and all of that kind of stuff. Go ahead and check that out before you cut out your fabric if you haven't already. Also be sure to download the free Sew Along workbook that I have that works in conjunction with this Sew Along to help you stay organized and stay on track throughout the Sew Along. But without further ado, let's get started making the palette. All right, so we've got our piece A and piece F and they get attached at this corner up here, right sides together, pin, stitch, trim and grade. So it's going to go on like this. And if you want to add even more stability to your bias scene here, you can add something called stay tape. Ignore the dog teeth marks in mine. I give you one guess as to which one of the dogs got to this. Yes, it was biscuit. All right, so you put it on like this, you sew it in the seam allowance on the wrong side. And this just prevents anything from being able to stretch out because this is like really hard. You can also do a piece of interfacing here if you want. You can do twill tape, ribbon, whatever you've got on hand, just know that the thicker the material, the thicker that little seam will be. Okay, and when you are trimming and grading seam allowances, the both seam allowances get trimmed a little bit, like a half, let's call it, let's call it like a scant half an inch. So let's take away about a quarter of an inch here and then the seam allowance that ends up being closest to the outer part of the garment gets trimmed again. So for us, that means the pant, right, because this ends up all going to the inside, like so, and then that the pant seam allowance is the one that ends up touching the outside. So that one gets trimmed again. I like to do it where I can slide the scissors, put a little snip in and then grab this like a handle or like a tail, and then you can use that to help guide you along the way. Okay, all right, so then the next step is to turn the lining to the wrong side of A, like so, along this seam line, and you were going to press this open, right, or press it to one side and then press it flat. So you get a nice, really pretty seam here. If you're getting issues with it being visible from the front, you can always understitch. I love throwing in an understitch, I just really think it helps a lot. And that would be where you are sewing the seam allowance to the facing. So I'm probably going to do that. I'm going to add that step in, because I think it does make such a difference in terms of this not rolling, and then also in terms of it being a little bit more stable too. So I'm going to put some understitching in, then press it, and then the next step number three is to edge stitch. So you're going to put like a, it's almost decorative at this point, because you have the understitching in, but honestly, like I don't think you can have too much on this little ankle here. So understitch, press, edge stitch. See how whatever you do that, it just naturally wants to all roll to the inside. So you're never ever going to see it. You really don't even have to press it. Honestly, you could just go ahead and edge stitch, but I'm going to do the right thing, and I am going to press it, but it just wants to roll to the inside. I love understitching. My favorite sewing technique, for sure, don't skip it. Okay, pressed. And now we are going to edge stitch, and that is stitching very, very close to the fold. So I'm going to paint mine all the way to the right. And I also like to put my, anytime I'm doing stitching that will be visible, I like to put it at a larger seam allowance, or a larger stitch length, just because I think it's prettier. And you can barely see it because my thread matches so well, but that's okay. I know it's there. All right, so the next step is to take piece E, which looks like this, and we are going to attach E to F, like so. And then you take your E piece, and the curves are going to match. So curve with the curve. And what you're getting is on the outside, it's going to look like this. Cute, right? Okay, so you're going to pin around the curve edges, matching the notches, pin, stitch, and then surge, or pinking shear, or finish your seam allowances. However, you want, this is also a great opportunity. If you wanted, you could do fringe seams here. That would be where you did wrong sides together, at a quarter of an inch, press them open, turn it to the right sides together, and then do like a three-eighths inch seam allowance. That'll give you your five-eighths. That way, the pocket's really pretty on the inside. I'm not going to do that. Okay, but if you want to, you can. It's just really easy to do right here, and it is really pretty, and it gives your pocket bag the stability that it needs to hold actual things. Have I convinced you? Okay. All right, steps five and six are, when I showed you before, you're just laying this all out flat. So you're laying your facing down, and then you're laying your pocket on top of that, like this, and then all of this is going to get basted along your waistband and along this side seam. So you want all of that to be nice and flat. Pay attention to the raw edges too, because this might be a little bit taller than your pants, and that's so when you match those up, you get a little bit of a gap here. That's to help with the curves. That's to help with the hip. That's to help prevent things from gaping open and give you that ease that you need. All right, so don't just ignore the fact that these two things don't line up. All right, setting those two pieces aside. For the moment, we are going to prep our knee patches. And if you've ever seen me talk about my hem trick, this is the same thing. So when you are going to the the instruction is for us to fold the top and bottom edges of the knee patch toward the wrong side by five eighths. So they want us to do this number like this. And to measure that, you know, obviously you would be normally going, Okay, I'm going to measure this at five eighths, right? And you mark it all along here. But then when you go to turn, you're like, but wait, I can't see my marking anymore. So I always take the amount that we're supposed to turn it over by the amount that we're hemming by or whatever and double that. Then I mark that number. All right, so we're going to go one and a quarter inches instead of five eighths. Mark this. There we go. I can see that. And then same thing for the bottom one and a quarter all the way down. All right, that way, when we go to the iron to press this up, we're pressing the raw edge toward that line. And that ends up being your perfect five eighths inch turn. Okay, so do that on both knee patches. All right, easy peasy. Two knee patches ready to go. All right, so to attach your knee patches, you are going to grab your pants and we're matching notches and also dots. So on your knee patch, you have a circle here and then on your pants, you also have a circle. In addition, you have notches. There's one there and one here. That is also where the knee patch is supposed to line up. Knee patches are attached on the top and bottom. And now we're going to baste along the side seams. Great. Okay, so next we're going to work on the back pockets and the back of the pants just in general. So you can put the front to the side. We're going to take piece G. Here she is. Okay, and we are going to fold the top edge of the pocket back by a quarter inch, press it, and then turn it to the right side by one inch by one inch and then press it again. So that looks like this. So again, we're going to use my little trick for the hems because that's technically what we're doing. Yes, the top edge. Okay, so if we're doing a quarter inch turn to the wrong side, then that means we are going to measure at half an inch. It's right above those dots, right? And then so that'll turn and be the perfect quarter inch. And then we turn this whole thing down again by one inch. So that will be a two inch mark. So that's two and a half inches from the top edge for the right side. Okay, so this is the right side of my pocket. We've got the quarter inch turned back to the wrong side and then this whole thing got turned to the right side by an inch, like a little accordion. That way when we go and sew along here, turn it under, we have a really pretty finished top edge of our pocket. All right, now we're going to go to our machines and we are going to stitch the unnotched side. So you're going to sew this at your five eighths inch seam allowance and then you're going to clip that corner, turn all of this to the wrong side, and then top stitch at seven eighths. So I'll show you all of that at the sewing machine. The shorter edge of the two five eighths inch seam allowance back stitch and sew just that little one inch section. So now you're going to clip the corner, see how I've done that there, and then turn all of this to the wrong side. So you have one really pretty corner and then this one's going to go into the seam allowance so you don't have to worry about that. So now you can press this again or just pin it and top stitch at seven eighths. All right, there is your completed back pocket. All right, now similar to how we have been doing all the rest of the turning and folding, we are going to press the rest of this seam. This is getting it started for you and then that tells you the rest of it. Then we're going to turn up this, right, and we're going to do our little trickety trick all the way around to turn up all of these raw edges, everything but the notched edge. Okay, here's my back pocket. If you have a tailor's clapper, it is really helpful for these corners because we do have so many layers of fabric. So you want to use lots of steam and heat so much as I guess your fabric allows. And then you lay that on top of your ironing board and let it completely cool. And it really does help kind of flatten that out a little bit. So we're going to take our back pocket and we are going to place it so that it is wrong side touching right side. Yes, wrong side touching right side and so that the raw edges match along the side seam. So this is wrong. Okay, this is my raw edge. It needs to be the other way. Okay, so now we've got right side of the pant touching the wrong side of the pocket. We've got our side seams matching and we should have notches and dots to help us line this up. And then we are just going to edge stitch all along the one, two, three edges and then baste through here. Okay, great news. The backs are done. Again, we just at the machine edge stitched and baste it. Edge stitched all the ones that are on the inner part of the leg, the side seam we basted and let me trim this off so that they match because now we're going to start assembling these pants. We're going to put the front and the backs together. All right, there you have it. We are well on our way. Those little details are always so much fun to sew, aren't they? In the next episode, we will be moving right along and covering the little cargo pocket and working on starting to assemble the pants. So I will see you there.