 Hi what's up you guys, this is your girl so with Whitbread and welcome back again to my youtube channel. So today we are going to learn the bustier pattern making and sewing. In this tutorial, I'm going to teach you guys on how to draft the flat patterns for the bustier, few sewing techniques and also we are going to learn few of the contour principles that you can apply for other garments. Anyway, to learn the pattern making and as well for the mock up or test towards the end, make it sure to continue on watching this tutorial to see the full creative process. Here are the tools and the materials that I'll be using for this tutorial. Front and back bodice loper, one and a half yards of gauze, paper and fabric scissors, fashion rulers, a pencil, a compass and a lot of pattern papers. Now let's move on to the pattern drafting process. First, trace the back and front bodice loper. From the bust point, we will draw the bust ridges for the contour guide. Next, mark down the bust ridges measurement from the bust point. Using your compass, draw the bust ridges measurement around from the bust point. From the bust point, extend a horizontal line. From the horizontal line at bust point, mark up and mark down 3 eighths inch. Connect this two marks at the bust point making a new dart. From the side seam, mark down 4 eighths inch and mark in 4 eighths inch. From these marks, draw a slant line blending towards the waistline. Moving on to the under bust. At the under bust, mark out 3 sixteenths on both sides. From the 3 sixteenth marks, draw slant lines blending towards the dart legs of the waist dart. And from the under bust marks, draw slight curves blending towards the end of the dart. Connect the end points of shoulder and waist darts. Next, I will draw the neckline for the bustier. Mark out 5 eighths inch from the new dart at center front. And draw a curve from the 5 eighths inch mark blending towards the bust ridges at shoulder dart. Next, from the adjusted side seam, draw a slide curve towards the bust ridges. Connect and draw a curve blending towards the bust ridges at shoulder dart. Next, from the shoulder dart, at bust radius, mark out 4 eighths inch on both sides. Connect these two marks at the end of the dart. And here's the complete contour for the front bustier. For the back contour, extend a horizontal line at the cross back notch. Connect the end points of the shoulder and waist darts. And extend slant lines from the waist dart legs going towards the cross back line. From the side seam, mark down 4 eighths inch and mark in 4 eighths inch. From these marks, draw a slant line blending towards the waistline. Next, we will draw the style line or neckline for the back bustier. From the waistline at center back, mark out 6 inches. The 6 inches mark will guide us for the style line. First, cut the excess because we won't use any of it. And next, fold the closed the back dart. Now that the back dart is closed, we can now draft the style line. Draw a slide curve from the side seam towards the 6 inches mark at center back. And here's the back part of the bustier. Simple, right? Going back to the front pattern, cut the excess and fold to close the shoulder dart. And as you guys can see, my darts are not aligned so now I will mend it and blend. And problem fixed. Next, fold the closed the between bust contour and tape to secure. And cut out all of the front and back patterns. And here are my front and back patterns for the bustier. This will be my official sloppier and now we'll keep it as it is without the sewing allowances and I suggest that you also do this guys. Next, get a piece of pattern paper. We will adjust the bust point areas. Trace the front panels of the bustier and don't forget guys to mark the bust points. Next, mark out three sixteenths from the bust points. And reshape the bust area for each bustier panels. Mind you that the added ease on the bust is for the boning ease. And now I have my pattern blocks for the bustier with complete sewing allowances. Mind you that I will cut these patterns on my fabric times two. Notice that the fourth panel has one inch of sewing allowance because this allowance is for the zipper. By the way, the pattern blocks should be placed on the green line and in here I'm ready to cut this. And here are all the patterns cut out from the fabric. I also cut my interfacing to fuse it on the self. These patterns are cut times two so I have times two self for each panels. And in here as you guys can see I've used the interfacing to the self. And I also added french laces to each of my panels to make my bustier more pretty. Next I'll be sewing the french lace on top of the self. I'll start with the back panels first. If you're doing this make it sure to pin everything in place before sewing. Now let's begin sewing. In here I am sewing the lace on the self one eighths inch away from the edge. For the front panels it's the same thing with the back. Pin everything in place before sewing. And again I am sewing the lace on the self one eighths inch away from the edge. And now I am done attaching the lace to the self. I will clean the edges first before I put all of the panels together. All the edges are now clean and I am going to attach the front panels first. This is the bust area so you should pay attention to it while sewing. As you guys can see I face the right sides of the panels together and match the bust points notches. Again don't forget to pin everything in place before sewing. And next I am going to sew the panels with four eighths inch of sewing allowance. And this is how it looks like. By the way I will press the seams open later for more clean lights. And now I'm going to attach both of the front finish panels together to complete the front bustier. This is the mid seam where the between bust contour is located. Again a just reminder don't forget to pin everything in place before sewing. And I'm going to sew this with the four eighths inch of sewing allowance. Now that I have finished sewing the front bustier I can now press the seams open. And as you guys can see I already pressed the seams open I'm sorry I forgot to include the video. This gives me clean lines on my front bustier. And on the bust area I use my tailor's hem to follow the shape of the bust while pressing the seams open. I also snip the tensions on the bust area especially on the under bust to lay the seams flat. And you can also snip the bust seams to avoid bulking. Let's now work on the back bustier. The back panels are generally easy to sew since the seams are straight. And the zipper location is on the center back the mid seam of the back bustier. Like with the front panels I face the right sides of the back panels together. And pin the panels together before sewing. And again I'm going to sew the back panels with four eighths inch of sewing allowance. Now that I have finished sewing the back bustier panels I can now proceed to pressing. And as you guys can see here I pressed the seams open for a clean finish and clean lines on the back part. And now I'm going to attach the side seams of both front and back parts of the bustier. Don't forget to pin everything in place before sewing. And again I am going to sew the side seams with four eighths inch of sewing allowance. And the panels are finished and all sewn together. And there are total of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 pieces of panels that I've sewn together. And this is how it looks like on the back. As you guys can see I've pressed all of the seams open to give me a clean finish to my garment. And lastly I'm going to sew the zipper on the center back. Here's the front view of my bustier and as you guys can see I achieved the clean seam lines. And here's the side view. You may notice that the bust is a bit pointy because I haven't attached the boning and the bust cups yet. And the back view, this is where the zipper is located and like the front I feel like I have achieved clean seam lines and I'm so satisfied with it. Bustier is perfect for cocktail dresses, perfect for spring and also you can use bustier garments for your own wedding dresses. I hope you like this video and I also hope this tutorial can help you with your upcoming garment projects. Anyways you guys if you liked this video give it a huge thumbs up and if you are not subscribing to my youtube channel so with with Brick make it sure to hit that subscribe and bell button to be notified with my new tutorials. I'll see you guys again on my next tutorial. Bye!