 Okay, here we go. Let's get started with our second presentation tonight and we're going to talk turf. And a lot of us have lawns in our landscape and usually lawns are pretty easy to grow, not too many problems. But now and then they do suffer from disease. And tonight we're going to learn about some of the most common problems on our turf and how we can prevent them. So let's welcome an extension plant pathologist, Jared Boulders, to the forums. Jared? Thank you, Tom. Welcome. So hopefully everyone can hear me all right, like so on and everything. So my topic today is the turf grass disease pathology. And basically that just means the time of the year that you see different turf grass diseases. And so turf grass diseases can be sort of tricky to figure out what disease it is. And you need to do that in order to figure out how to manage them or prevent them from happening in the first place. And the best key or the best trick for doing that is basically to look at the time of year you're seeing the problems on your turf and use that as a clue to figure out what the problem might be. Let me get my buttons right. So I always like showing this slide whenever I talk about turf grass problems. I think it's interesting how much of the land area of the United States is covered in turf grass and how much money is spent on controlling and managing turf grass problems. So this could be diseases, it could be weeds, it could be insects. So there's over a billion dollars spent annually per state on turf grass maintenance. So that's pretty crazy when you really start to think about it. In New York alone, 5 billion to maintain 3. Hello? Hello out there? Okay, perfect. Okay, where was I? Yes, okay, so 10% of the land area is made up of turf grass. And people think, okay, most of that is probably golf courses, right? Well actually it turns out that 82% of that is residential. So there's a lot of turf grass in people's lawn, front lawns and all over the place that basically needs to be managed in some way. There's some other facts, it's about grass species. So you see there's about 7,500 different species of grass that could be used as turf grasses. There's about 40 species that are commonly used and 19 that are basically managed at some spot within the US. So there's a lot of different species of turf grass that you can find out there. And that is really the key in that a lot of these diseases only affect certain species of turf grass. And so the trick is to be able to identify what turf grass species you have. And that seems like it's going to be easy but can be really difficult when you don't have seeds and you're cutting it so it's about this long, you know, basically all summer long. So instead of focusing on identifying the different kinds of turf grass, which to do you'd have to go through one of these keys and look at the different parts, what we actually try to do is look at the time of year that these diseases become a problem and use that as a clue. Don't worry about looking at this, I just use this as an example of something someone might not actually want to do. Here are some common examples of things you might see in your lawn. It might be in your lawn, it might be in a golf course, but this is pretty typical. You'll either see a bunch of, you know, basically consists of dead patches of grass that are different sizes. So that's not, it's pretty generic, it can be quite difficult to figure out what this is and how you manage them is different depending on what disease is actually there. So here you see some examples of things that are really common here in North Dakota. So on the top on the right hand side you have one of the snowmolds. Just to the left of that you have a dollar spot, which is a really common disease that you see in golf courses and can crop up in your lawn if you cut it really short continually. Then we have below that necrotic ring spot, which is really common in North Dakota, especially on turf grass plant, sorry, on re-sotted lawns. Then you have something called pithium, which is really common if you have compacted soils and you don't have very good drainage. So basically you have pooling of water in those areas in the spring and you might have this problem crop up dead black patches of grass later on in the growing season. Now here's something I think is kind of interesting because it looks like a disease, right? It looks like there's a problem, but this is actually caused by ice on the lawn. So there's been a big slab of ice on the lawn. It doesn't let any oxygen in and that basically has killed that turf grass. What you see are those green lines, which are actually the cracks on that piece of ice that will let oxygen come in at certain locations and everywhere else the grass is dead. So it's kind of an interesting thing, but something that could easily be confused with a disease. Here's another example, right? Obviously those blades of grass don't look healthy. This is potentially something that could be confused as a disease. But if you notice you get a regular pattern where you have healthy dark green growth and you have the yellow bands and you have dark green growth and you have the part on top, well that's because of really cold temperatures, frost in the evenings and throughout the night, killing or damaging a portion of that grass and then it recovers as it grows during the day. Once again, something that might be a disease but is basically caused by the environment and you can't really do anything about it. Here's another example of something you might really commonly see in North Dakota and this is a picture of a green on a golf course because the symptoms show up best on this really grass that's cut really short, but it's basically wind desiccation. So the wind has been blowing over that spot and has damaged the grass. So it's another possibility for an abiotic problem in your lawn. This is just the same picture of that pithium, so from the flooding or lots of water in that area. More flooding damage, another example. This is an example of a certain leaf spot disease of grass. So you kind of get the picture here, right? There's lots of things that cause problems on grass. Some are caused by diseases, some are caused by the environment. There's another example of something kind of interesting, right? That's probably not a disease, right? So basically what's happened is the mower has gone over that at the wrong time of year. I think at this point the grass, it was really hot and dry and for whatever reason it killed two strips of grass. So there's weird things that can happen in your lawn that you're never really going to be able to figure out either. Here's another example. This kind of illustrates the point that some diseases affect certain species of grass and other diseases affect other species of grass. So this shows up best because they're planting two different kinds of grass on the fairway and on the rough. And so on the fairway it's not susceptible and then on the rough you get that dead spot of grass. So there's obviously a big difference in these two species in terms of how susceptible they are. Now in your lawn a lot of the time you're going to plant, when you get a turf mix, there's not a single species in there and there's actually a bunch of different species. So there can be three or four different species of turf grass and you won't notice it like this, but it could be certain species in that mix that are being killed by the disease. This brings us to something I always like to mention to my students when I'm teaching undergraduate classes to try to get tired of it, but I'll expose you to it as well. Basically what we have here is something called the disease triangle and it's something that's really important to consider when you're managing diseases. So you have three sides, you have the host, so the grass plants in this case, you have the pathogen, so the disease whatever is causing the problem in your turf grass, and then you have the environment. And you need all three of these things to be right depending on your point of view for the pathogen to cause disease or out of balance for no disease to occur. And that brings us to this chart here and I'm going to go through a bunch of these diseases specifically and talk about how you manage them, but I just want to throw this up here to kind of highlight a point. So you have a couple examples here. You have the very top with the yellow squares, you have gray snowmolds, and then you have the months when it is probably going to be a problem or growing on that turf grass. So you can see for gray snowmolds, January, February, March, November, December. That's when that fungus is growing, even though you don't see it and it doesn't cause a problem until the spring. You have pink snowmolds, same type of thing, but it actually causes a problem later on in the growing season as well. And then you have other things, like if you look at the very bottom of that figure, you have rust. So rust is something really common in agricultural plants. It's also a problem in turf grass. I don't know if you've ever walked through a lawn and looked at your shoes afterwards, and they're kind of covered with an orange powder, so that's a rust fungus. And that typically is a problem at the hottest, driest time of the year, so June, July, August, September. So we can kind of use this to figure out if you have a problem on your turf grass what that problem might be caused by. So here's an example. We have gray snowmolds. This is something obviously not this year. We're going to see on our lawns in North Dakota, but typically last year I had a bunch from my front lawn. You see it usually every year, and there's a couple things that are the key here. And that's the first of all, is that you have more than 45 days of snow cover. Any time you have more than 45 days of snow cover on your lawn, you're probably going to have some gray snow mold that's starting to grow underneath. And that's because that fungus likes about 32 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit. That's the temperature it grows at. So the question is, okay, it's growing under the snow. I can't really do anything about that, right? But what do I do in the spring when I notice it? Well, it turns out the best thing to do, and probably the simplest thing to do, is you take a rake and you rake those patches where you see the gray snow mold growing. So we have a close-up picture of what that looks like. Here you see some turf grass, and then you have, I have an arrow there saying mycelium, so that's what that part of the fungus is called. It's growing on that turf grass. So you basically rake that, and the problem goes away. If you don't do something about that, then it usually starts to kill the grass, and you might get dead patches and then get invaded by weed, dandelions, and things you don't want. That's just a close-up. I'm telling my pathologist I like these pictures. The next thing I wanted to mention is something called pink snow mold. So this is a different kind of snow mold. You don't actually need snow cover for this to be a problem. It likes cool temperatures, so 30 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and it likes lots of water. So when you have springs where you have cool temperatures, lots of rain, and your soil where, you know, your lawn might not be draining very well, that's where pink snow mold typically becomes a problem. This is showing the difference between two types of structures you might see and how you could differentiate between the two if you were interested. If it's pink snow mold, you'll notice on the right side, it kind of looks fuzzy, whereas on the left side, you see these kind of smooth pink or salmon-colored balls. That's how you can tell the difference between the two. The next disease we're going to talk about is Dollar Spot. So Dollar Spot also really common. You see it in North Dakota anyway from April to October. Obviously it's going to give you nice weather for it to still be there in October, but it can be a problem. And it gets its name because you get these silver dollar-sized patches on your lawn. It can eventually grow together and coalesce, and you can get big patches of dead grass, but typically it starts with these little spots you see here. And the key here is dew, so it likes a lot of dew. If you have dew on your grass, then you can chances are you might have a problem with Dollar Spot. It also likes, you know, mid-range temperature, 55 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit is kind of common. So this is what causes the problem. You get a lot of dew forming on the grass, and then that fungus, just like if you had a piece of rotten fruit growing on your counter, grows in that dew and on the grass and actually will kill it. And the reason you get a Dollar Spot is because that basically grows overnight. In that eight hours of dew, it grows out in a circle, a small spot, and then that kills the grass there, and that's why you get a spot, you know, that's about the size of the Silver Dollar. If you were to look at some of the grass blades, this is typically what you'd see close up on a grass blade. They have kind of an hourglass-shaped spot on them. And, you know, even though this is a problem that might not look good, really the easiest way to handle this problem is by just making sure you take care of your grass. You don't want to do things like mow, don't cut the grass too short, don't stress it out. There are some options for chemicals to control this as well, although most times people's yards are easier just to use some sort of chemical or cultural control. This is something that is also really common, and I have never actually seen it here in North Dakota, but other people have told me about it. It's called red thread. When you look at the dead spot of grass, like you see here, you'll see actually pink or red threads in that spot of grass. This is also another fungus that likes about 12 hours of dew, so like lots of dew, wet conditions, and 40 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. So when you look down there, it's kind of April, May, June, so late spring, early summer, and then the end of the growing season is where this might be a problem. Those are what those red or pink threads look like close up. Basically, you have the blade of grass, and they grow out of the end of that blade of grass. This is something else I mentioned as well, so rust. If you look at this picture, and hopefully you can see it out in the far reaches of North Dakota, but you kind of get an orange or reddish tint to the grass, and that's because of these red or rust spores that are being produced on that grass. So here you see a close up. You can see the rust spores all over it. And this typically occurs on new lawns, so lawns that are a year or two years old. And even though it looks bad and your shoes might turn all orange, typically once the lawns become established, the problem goes away. It's not something that's really a concern or you really need to do anything about this. Keep managing your lawn and taking care of your lawn as you have been, and it'll hopefully go away within a couple of years. This is the disease I've showed a couple of examples, and like I said before, really common in heavy soils. So soils like you'd see in Fargo and a lot of eastern North Dakota. And the way to deal with this is basically by aerating in the spring. So if you improve the drainage of your soil, that can have a big impact or reduce the amount of problem you get from these types of diseases. You can also, you know, instead of top dressing with soil, you can top dress with sand as well. That can help improve soil drainage. And the thing here is you might notice is that it's a problem in July and August. At least that's when the dead patches typically show up. But the reason they show up at that time of year is that's when the temperatures are hottest. What this pathogen typically does is it invades the root system in the spring when it's wet and when that pathogen's able to grow in the soil, and it damages those roots. But the symptoms don't actually show up until it's hot and the plants can't uptake enough water in order to survive. So that's what's actually killing the plant is the hot weather and not necessarily the fungus that's causing the problem. So what pathologists look at in this case, this is a microscope slide. We've kind of zoomed in and we look at the roots of these plants and we can see these circles, which are the spores. And so that kind of sits in the soil and can germinate and cause problems again the following year. So this is something that's very common in North Dakota. I think Tom, Esther, and I, and everyone pretty much get questions about this every year. So it's something called necrotic ring spot and basically what you get are rings where you have dead grass on the outside and you have a green healthy growing grass in the middle. So typically this shows up in June and July, wetter soil, so if it's really dry, it's not gonna be a problem. And like 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit in terms of temperature. And when this is typically seen is when you have a clay soil and you're putting a sod down on that soil and then you typically will get a problem. And so a lot of the time to avoid this we recommend seeding of lawns in order to establish them, especially if you're getting sod later in the growing season. This is the type of thing you might see if you were to look more closely at the plants. So basically you have healthy grass plants on the one side and ones that are stunted with black rotten roots on the left. That's pretty much what kills the grass is this fungus is growing and rotting the root system. And what pathologists look at to see if this is actually caused by a disease is we look to see if we can see strings of the fungus growing on the plant. We can see that when we know that we have a necrotic ring spot problem. So the next couple diseases or diseases you might also see but aren't really as common in North Dakota. There are diseases you see in the height of the summer and can be confused with that necrotic ring spot that I showed you earlier. But summer patch is an example of one of these diseases. It produces a different kind of structure in the roots. Melting out is another problem that is really common and basically looks like spinning patches of turf grass in your lawn. Cool rainy weather in the spring. So April and May can be a problem. Also something typical weather for North Dakota in the spring. If we were to look, that's basically a picture of the grass kind of dying. The last one, I believe this is the last one on the list and then we're going to talk about some general management stuff that's taking care of your turf grass and preventing these problems in the first place. Brown patch. So you can see again, this is something that's a problem. It's in the soil and when you get the right weather conditions, long due periods in the spring and at the end of the growing season, you can get these nasty patches that kind of appear on your lawn. And if you were to look more closely at the leaves, you'll see circular spots on them that's caused by the fungus. Yeah, this is another one too that's also really common in North Dakota. So if you're ever walking in a lawn and it looks like someone spilled a can of paint on that lawn, that's caused by a fungus powdery mildew. So that's something also really common, not something you need to really worry about. It'll be a problem one year and potentially not a problem the following year. Again, one of these ones that likes lots of dew and fairly warm temperatures. Here's a picture close-up, basically of that white fungus growing on the surface of a blade of grass. And then this is my favorite one to talk about. This is something that's really common that you can see pretty much all the time every summer in North Dakota and that's dead spots caused by a dog. That's something that looks like a lot of these diseases but usually you go talk to a homeowner, find out they have a dog and that's the problem that you typically see. So that's pretty much the end of my presentation. I did want to add a couple of points before we get on to the question and that's just the importance of really doing a good job taking care of your lawn. A lot of these problems can be avoided if you use the right cultural conditions. So you don't mow the grass too short, you use fertilizer and irrigate at the right time. You can kind of avoid a lot of these problems. Okay, thank you, Jared. And we are scrambling to get the microphone. Is the microphone working for me? Am I testing? Go away from me, Jared. Go away. I got to read questions to you. Okay, we're beautiful. Have you had... Okay, these people are... It's the last class. We're getting some questions. These people are not behaving here. Some joke questions. Do you recommend grass paint as an alternative for fungicides? I do. Okay, good. Green preferably. Do you have a shade of green you like the best? I like pink the best. Pink. Beautiful. That's for breast cancer awareness. I appreciate that. How do I treat moss? Okay, we will have a few cultural questions here. So I slipped in here. How do I treat moss growing in the grass in a shaded area? That's a good question. I guess maybe I'll let Tom answer this if he wants to add anything to it. But I guess basically suggest if it's being shaded by another plant, you could remove that plant. You could pick the moss. You could just try and basically re-seed your top grass over top of it. I don't know if you have any. That's right. If you have too much shade and it's causing problems on your turf, the obvious solution is cut down the trees. So there you go. None of your problems solved. But if you don't want to do that, as far as moss goes, moss is not an aggressive plant whatsoever. So you just rake it out and then moss is typically a problem where the turf is suffering from lack of light or compaction. Maybe this is a situation where an aeration would help. And as Jared was saying, it is a good idea to perhaps thin some of the nearby foliage to get more light into the area. There are shade-tolerant grasses. There is no grass that likes the shade. But fine leaf fascues are the most shade-tolerant. So look for a fine or something called a red fascue. They're the most shade-tolerant. Also, you've got to have realistic expectations. You're not going to have a gorgeous, better homes and gardens lawn in a shady area. Sometimes you just got to forget about it. You just say, OK, I'm going to put rocks in this area or some shredded bark, some other type of accent. Oh, there you go. So that's my answer for there. OK, let's talk about what do we do if they were inspired by your last disorder here with dog damage? What do we do about these brown pads from dogs that we see every year? Tom keeps comment. I guess this is a hard problem. There are some commercial products. They say work. I don't know how well they work, so I'd be careful about that. One of the things you might want to think about doing is you actually try and dilute out the problem. I've heard people say that. You pour buckets of water, let running water go on, because it's the nitrogen that's causing the problem. I think that's probably the best thing that I've seen people recommend. You could dig out the patches. You could get rid of the dog. Talk to your neighbor. You're right. Leech out the nitrogen. And I think one of the best ways to determine it, Jared, you see on the edge of the brown ring, you see the most beautiful lush green grass you ever saw, so that's where the nitrogen was actually helping. Can you talk about some cultural practices? How about you tell us about the best watering times as far as to minimize disease problems? Sure. The best time to water is usually early in the morning. You don't want to water late at night, basically what that does is allows the plants to get the water they need, and then the grass can actually dry out. Because you saw a lot of those diseases required due. So if you water in the evening, you're basically creating due. And so the best way to handle that is to water early in the morning, as early as you want. I don't know. I mean, 5 o'clock, 5 a.m. kind of thing. Grass appreciates the water. Soon the sun comes up. So if you're looking for a target time, that's a nice time when you see the sun just starting to come up. How about you're very scientific, Jared, and we're seeing the letters SPP. What is that word? Yeah, so there's a lot of, I put all the scientific names up there for people who are curious. SPP just means species. So they don't know what species. There's probably a bunch of different species. And so instead of listing 10 species, we just say SPP. Thank you for that scientific lesson for today. How about, can you talk about, what's that treatment again for necrotic ring spot that you mentioned? I don't think I did mention a treatment for necrotic ring spot. I was worried I was running out of time. We got time. I was worried if Shu was going to come flying. I have two of them and there's only one left. I mean, I guess the treatment for necrotic ring spot is basically trying to, it's truly necrotic ring spot. It's one of those ones that basically you want to try and improve the health of your lawn. That's the best thing to do. You want to basically avoid, there's a specific kind of sod that you want to use in the spring when you're actually planting a new lawn. And I cannot remember a mineral, yeah. So mineral back sod rather than a sod that's grown on peat. That's ideal because usually the problem arises when you put a peat back sod onto the soil that we get here and then you get these patches that die. So that's probably the best approach or seeding the lawn. And if you have those dead spots, basically the recommendation is top dressing and overseeding to try and get rid of them or reduce the problem. Aeration can also help. If you want to basically aerate it to improve the root penetration into the Fargo clay soil, that can also help as well. Sometimes with that, when you buy a sod, it already comes with an inch of that to begin with. And so my experience is usually you just take another year or so and then you get to that critical area where the batch gets too big. So check for your batch and consider a deep batching that's necessary. So one main thing maybe to add so people are wondering what batch is, is that if you're not aerating your lawn and you're cutting it and leaving the clippings on the lawn, which is a good idea, all that can build up over time and then you get this layer of all this dead plant material in your lawn. A lot of the fungus actually likes growing in that. And so it'll grow on that dead plant and it gets really established and then be able to start killing the living plants. So that's why aerating is really an important, one of the important ways to control diseases. Okay, if people can't hear me, so if you would please repeat the questions so that the audience can hear the questions. How far ahead of me? Okay, there's a dark green circular lawn. I agree on grass. Do you think this could be grass or grass or grass? Dark green circular lawn. I have a major technical problems here. I hope everyone can still hear me. So we call it team building. It's a beautiful thing. So there's a dark green broad spot on our turf. Is that a disease? Or do you think that it's quack grass or crab grass? If it's green, it's probably not a disease. I would say it's probably quack grass or crab grass. I wouldn't be sure which one if I was seeing it. I don't think it's a disease. It's probably quack grass or crab grass. I wouldn't be sure which one if I was seeing it. Okay, I agree with Jared. And the way you determine it is quack grass lives for more than one year. Crab grass, there's no crab grass in your yard today. None, zero. It all died from frost. But there's a lot of crab grass seeds. That's an annual. So one of the easiest ways to tell quack from crab is to just try to pull it. If it pulls out, it's probably an annual, it's probably crab grass. Crab grass also has a little burgundy tinge and it has a seed head like fingers coming up. Quack grass has a single spike in its very core. Quack grass is one of the first grasses to green up in spring or one of the last to die off in fall. So it's an aggressive grass early in the season. Quack grass is hard to control. Quack grass is a pranial. We're going to have to use something like Roundup or Glyphosate to control that spot treatment. Crab grass is easy to control since it dies from every fall. So usually we use crab grass preventer in our lawn fertilizer in springtime. Make sure you get it in by the first week of May. Okay, let's see. Any emphasis, how often should you aerate your lawn? And when should you do it? Want to work together on that? We could work together on that because we're basically standing over time by five. Maybe I'll read the questions that you can answer them. Well, I mean, I guess typically you do the aerate in the spring, don't you? Yeah. You want to aerate the lawn anytime when the lawn can respond to it and lawns are happy in the spring and fall. So that's the time you aerate. How often should you aerate your lawn? That depends on you. To me, aerating your lawn is like, it's like kind of giving a massage. The lawn likes it, it feels good, but it didn't really need it. Okay? That's usually the way it works. Unless it's a heavy traffic area like near sidewalk or on a college campus, most lawns don't need an aeration. Unless it's a compacted ground. But again, there's low maintenance lawn people and there's people who like to live for their lawn. And so it's a good thing, but maybe it's not necessary. Maybe one thing to keep in mind, too, is that lawns typically grow in the spring and in the fall and it's in the middle of the summer when they go dormant. So a lot of the lawns turn brown. And that's not bad. They just, that their dormant is too hot. They don't want to grow and they start going again in the spring. So you're going to do things like poke holes in your turf grass as an aerator and fertilize. You want to do it at the times of year when, like Tom said, you'd want to get a massage. Okay. How about defatching? That's, I mean, that's the same kind of thing. I think you want to try and do that in the spring and in the fall as well. Typically if you can do it in the spring and you can break up that thatch, you let the moisture get in and there's some, you know, you can fertilize probably the previous fall. You have the right conditions to basically have that thatch rot and break down and not cause a problem. Yeah. You know, the thing about thatch is a little thatch is good for your lawn. It makes your lawn more resilient. So before you decide to defatch, you should get out there with a knife and just carve like a piece of pie in your turf and raise it up. And you should not defatch your lawn unless you have more than a half inch of thatch. And your turf will feel spongy when you walk on it. That's a sign. Defatching is very destructive to your turf. So you must do it when the turf is healthy and growing well. So usually we do that in the fall, sometimes in the spring. How about best time to fertilize the lawn to prevent diseases? Keep the lawn healthy. I mean, I guess you want to, it's the same kind of thing you want to fertilize in the spring and in the fall. And really people kind of forget about it, but the fall fertilizing is really important. It helps the grass get going again in the spring. It's actually better to fertilize in the fall with a slow release fertilizer than to fertilize heavily in the spring with something. So typically you could fertilize in the fall and then a couple weeks once things start growing and that is Memorial Day. Yeah, Memorial Day, then you can fertilize. We think holidays and actually the best time to, like Jared is saying, the fall is a time when your lawn is hungriest and that's when the roots grow and that's the key to a healthy, strong disease for your turf. So think about Columbus Day. That's the best time. Or before Halloween, that's for sure. But Columbus Day, the second best time is Memorial Day. Wait, the early spring fertilizations, just they don't have any long-term benefit. They just actually make you mow more often. Memorial Day, are you meeting Labor Day? Memorial Day and the May. Not Spray, I'm fertilize. Okay, the best time to control weeds, the best time to control weeds generally is in the fall because in the fall what happens is you're going to be spraying the leaves of the weeds and then in the fall the weeds are smart. No winter's coming and so they prepare for winter and they start sending all their foods down into their roots in the fall. So you wait until the fall, actually the best time is right after a burst of light frost late September. That's a great time to do it. You spray a weed then and that foolish weed will naturally draw that herbicide down into its roots and so that's the way to kill. As far as weed and feeds go, you have to be careful using granular products for weed control because they're not always that effective because they have to stick onto the weed leaf and for like some of that, like we had a question on the prostrate, not weed or clover, why would you ever kill clover, the beautiful shamrock plant of Ireland since we can talk about her heritage is tonight, mine is Irish and there would be a sin to kill a shamrock but the problem is the herbicide can fall off the leaves and then we lost our weed control. So what else we got here? How about night crawlers? You want to touch that one? I am not an entomologist so I'm not. Okay. Night crawlers are, that's kind of a tricky one because the products that control night crawlers, I don't know if there's any licensed products that control, that are registered for use in night crawlers, although some insecticides will naturally control night crawlers. I don't have a good answer for night crawlers. There's people that say, yeah, it's good to help aerate the lawn but people who ask this question do not think of that. They want to prevent the night crawlers. The bombs they create in the lawn can be an issue so sometimes if this is a major issue we can lightly roll the turf to help smooth it out a little bit. Just a light rolling, like they say. If you have a barrel, don't fill it more than one third full of water or sand. We have time for just one more question here. Okay. How do we control golfers? How do we control golfers? Okay. Yeah. Okay. How do we control golfers? You're right. Traffin is the best way. First of all, make sure you have a golfer and not like a ground squirrel. A golfer, a pocket golfer will have a pocket of soil near the hole and you will not see the entrance hole. The entrance hole is covered up. You almost never see a golfer. You rarely see the golfer itself. If you're seeing a little crater out there, it's probably a ground squirrel which are much more active and there's various types of baits you can use to control ground squirrels and even the old traditional way of just flooding them out is not the worst idea. It's what has been used for centuries to control severe ground squirrel problems. But that's what we got for that.