 Let me show you what this bad boy can do. Hey guys, welcome back to Tantane Man Garage. Today I am working on a 97 Blair Sportspin 500. And I've had a couple questions on these, so I figured this would be a perfect time to answer some of those questions. On these older ones, they have a lot of electrical issues, so stay tuned after I do the rebuild, get the thing back together, and you'll find out what kind of electrical issues I've got going on and how to solve them. So sit back, relax, have a beer, and watch me do all the work. If you remember in my previous video, this thing came in a box. The guy tore the engine apart, something was locked up in the bottom, something with a connecting rod to the piston, I believe. I did have another bottom and laying around, so I cleaned that up. I also went through and I took my honing stones and I honed the cylinder. The cylinder was actually in decent shape, it's usable, so I'm going to use that. And I also resurfaced the head, the head was pretty clean. So one thing I do when I take an engine apart is I will take this off and inspect that. You will always have a little groove in there from the decompression ball on the cam. I'll also grab this, turn this around, check the cam lobes. Those are pretty good within spec. If they were bad, normally the exhaust lobe wears off on these. But this one looks pretty decent, so I'm going to go ahead and use it. This actually came off a 425, and the 425 and the 500 heads are identical, and the cams are identical. The head that came with it, the guy had dissembled the valves. The cam was shot, so I'm not even going to use that. I'm going to just use this, because I've got one that's in good shape. Another little trick I wanted to show you guys, and one of my subscribers suggested this. If your engine is all caked up, full of grease and oil, use a little easy off. Spray it on there. I left it on for about maybe 15 minutes, cleaned it off right away. The only downfall is it leaves oxidation on the block. So after I get this all assembled, I'm going to take a brass wire brush and kind of clean off all the oxidation, clean everything up. So my next step is, I'm going to get the jug put on, but I want to go over something, as you can see here. I do have the piston in already. I didn't want to go through that. I did post a video a while ago on it. When you buy a piston, I like the number of pistons. Their average price, they hold up. I've had them in a lot of ATVs and they last a while. But before you put the rings on the piston, what you want to do is check your ring gap. So you take the ring, put it inside the jug, and then make sure, with a feeler gauge, that I think it's like .006 gap in between the rings. If you don't have that, you're going to burn up your rings or something's going to jam up right away. So what I like to do is, after I get my gasket surfaces all cleaned up, the choice of zero is whatever you want to use. I use a little lacquer thinner and I clean this all up. And then it actually makes any gasket material stuck on there yet pop up. And then I'll maybe take a razor blade or a fine piece of sanding paper and sand that down. Clean it up real nice. Go over it again so that way I have clean surfaces before I put the gaskets on. So I've gone through this about a hundred times. So I'm not going to show you how I put the cylinder on the piston because it can be time consuming. And usually my arms are in the way when I do it. But I'll use a piston ring compressor, squeeze it on, and I'll squeeze the piston rings and I'll slide that on. Another thing I like to do is throw a little oil in here on both sides. So that way when I slide this on, it's pre-lubed and it'll slide on a little nicer. So I'm going to clean off my surfaces, get my base gasket on, get that jug slid on, and then we'll go from there. All right, so I got the jug on. It took me a couple tries with this, but I got it to work. So I always got people asking me, the teeny man, what is the torque specs for the jug bolts? So these are 12.12 millimeter. And I just drop them in there, throw a little oil on them. And they are 49 foot pounds. So I'll give each one up just a crisscross pattern. Also you put your two little bolts in here. I got those in already. Now before you assemble the head, remember to put some slides in. Let's go in a little notch right here and in here. That's for your chain. All right. So the next thing I like to do is, oh, I've inserted the jug. I want to check the action, move the piston up and down, make sure the rings are incorrectly, make sure I don't hear any grinding noise, so this is good. You guys can see that. Everything moves nice and free. It's already pre-lubed, so it'll be good to go. I'm going to leave that there, top dead center. And I'm going to take some lacquer thinner, clean the surface off. Now let's double check, make sure there's no gasket material left. Maybe we see a little bit on there. Like I said, the lacquer thinner does make it stick out, which is nice. I'm going to just clean a little bit of that off. Let's use a razor blade to just kind of drag it back. Try not to scratch the surface too bad. If you do get some deep scratches from a razor blade, just take a little 320, actually 600 grit wet dry sandpaper, sand it down. This is actually 1500 grit that'll work. Clean this up a little bit. You see one or two little specks of gasket material on there, so I'm going to do a little scratch here, so I'm going to clean that up. All right. Wipe it down again. The head gasket, you really can't mess up because there's two bigger holes and two smaller holes, and then you got this here like so. Now I wanted to show you this. Every time I install the head, I just put a level over it and a flashlight. Just make sure there is no gaps in there anywhere. And I already inspected that, and that's good to go. So I'm just going to clean that surface off. Put this bad boy on. You want to watch out because there's notch here. Notch right down here. If this will get hung up on, so move that over. And you want to make sure this is latched into the right position that it didn't move or fall out. So you don't use any Loctite or anything. As you can see, I'm using a little bit of oil. That is factory recommended. Some guys will be like, oh yeah, you can't do that. You're not supposed to do that. I used to work in an engine plant, and we did the same exact thing. I normally don't like the name drop, but it was called our engine plant. And what we were told was with the Torx spec or the Torx sequence, is you tighten it, and you loosen it, and you tighten again. The bolt stretch. So you want a little oil on there. It kind of acts like a cutting agent and also helps with the bolts. That is a 14mm, I believe. I'm just going to snug them up. And because of the Torx sequence, I usually wait until I put the engine in the ATV and torque it down only because then you've got everything mounted down. Engines held in place. Otherwise you'll be hanging out of this thing, trying to torque on it like I was trying to do with a jug. So that's what I do. Don't forget your two bolts here. And then I'll go ahead and install the timing chain. So I'm going to install my timing chain and my timing gear. Let me show you guys a quick little trick. So right here, there's a mark on the crank gear and there's a mark on the case. Line those two up, you're at top dead center. This will go face up. It's basically you want this all on a straight line and then you know you're at top dead center. Also, your chains are discolored. So these two are lighter. And this one at the bottom is light. So you hook this one with that mark and these two with the little indentations on the cam gear. When I install that, let's do that on the camera. Two little indentations, one here, one here. That'll all get lined up. Now if you notice I've got the engine laying on its side, it's a lot easier to install the timing chain that way. A little kind of slide down. Let me turn it sideways, wrap it around. Got that lined up. I'll put my bolts on and you will be at top dead center. This is the perfect way to know you're a top dead center. I do put a little Loctite on these because I haven't seen some that do tend to back out. Here you have it. Perfectly timed engine. Now, a little sloppy but easy to adjust. Same here, you put a little oil on them. You can put Loctite on these if you want. Let's check the valve lashes to be .006. I love this one. It's got a nice little handle. I believe we got it from Snap-on. Tape there, tape there. Yep, we're tightening all of them. 10mm wrench and a screwdriver. And we'll get her set. I'm going to go ahead and just loosen them all right away. Lock nuts. So I know all of them need to be reset. You want just a little bit of drag on there. You want it too tight like that. Set that right there. Check this one out too. I'll do the other side. If you don't do this, when you go to start it, your intake valves could open before your exhaust valves do. You always want to make sure these are set. And every couple of years, you'll have to reset these. I thought you guys don't know that. They think there's an issue with their carb. They're like, well, why doesn't it run right? I think there's something wrong with the carb. Usually the first thing I ask is, did you check the valve lash? Let's remove a little bit. They're still good. Usually you can tell like the wiggle and you've just got a little bit of plague or good to go. I'll put the cover on and this rebelle will be done. All right. I always forget to show this in every rebelle video, but also have your chain tensioner. Unbolt that. That's a 12 millimeter bolt. Take the spring out. This little clip, press that in. You want to go ahead and install that. You don't want to install a tension on it because it'll need to readjust itself after the rebuild. I think it's six foot pounds, but I trust that gun. That gun's usually set about that. So now you can hear it clicked, pushed out. Now it's done. I just put my cover on after I install the engine. So I'm going to install the engine, go through the torque sequence for the head bolts and put the cover on. Get everything else put back together and then get her fired up. Next I got the engine installed right now. A lot of things sucked up and I'm going to go through the torque sequence. The first set of the sequence is going to 22 foot pounds, which I'm pretty close to that gun. I'm just going to double check everything. And then I believe the next step is 51 pounds. 52. Oh, 52 pounds. 52 foot pounds is the next step. Turn my torque wrench up here. Go across, cross ways with the bolt pattern. So then you're loosening each one a half turn or 180 degrees. And then another half turn. 11 foot pounds. What I do is I grab a marker, draw a straight line of each bolt and you turn each one quarter turn. I like to draw a line of bolts so I can physically see where my quarter turns are. I do have a video on this, if you guys are wanting to actually see what I'm doing. Quarter turn, all four. And then the next step I like to do is after the cover's on, I'll tilt the ATV on its side. So it's like leaning at an angle. And I'll grab a funnel and I'll put it in one of these ports and I'll put like a, like maybe one quarter of oil just so that there's oil in the case when I started it up. It's already pre-loomed. You don't have to do any of the funky stuff because your oil reservoir's on the other side so if you're filling that up, there's no oil in the engine. So I'm going to do that next. Put the stator on, the rocker cover on. You got to pick up an oil filter and this thing should be ready to ride. Okay, so I got the engine in, I got everything hooked up except the exhaust. And I just wanted to try to prime everything, make sure I got spark. So I plugged in the spark plug there. I don't have the spark plug in the block. I'm just seeing if I got spark. I did, but I had to hot wire the starter solenoid right here because when I hook juice up to it, it doesn't even click. I've got power to my red wire right here. So I know there's power going up to the switch. I just don't have anything going right there. So I do have another starter solenoid by chance. Not sure if it works. I'm going to find out. I'm going to hook that up and see if I can get this bad boy fired up. Like I said, with these old polarises, sometimes you got to go through the wiring. It's bad grounds. If for some reason this doesn't work, I'm going to have to go up to the run stop kill switch. This seems pretty crusty. Move that, which I'm not liking. I might have to replace that. So that could be my issue too. So I'll see what I find once I get that replaced. Alright, so I put a new starter solenoid in. It turned out that wasn't the problem. So on these old polarises with the circuit board, these get pretty crusty and corroded. So what I end up doing was I unplug the white wire with the red line on it and that goes to the starter solenoid to the start switch. And then I also checked the key switch. And it turned out I got a funky key switch. So I'm going to have to replace that. Yeah, I got her all together. Just brought it in from pressure washing it because it was pretty dirty. I'm going to fire this bad boy up or as you can see what it does. I did hot wire the fan. The issue I have now if I shut it off. Oh, now it shuts off. Before I would have to push up on the key, something wonky going on with this. Or I could just hit the kill switch. So here you have folks, my latest project. I'm going to get the plastics back on. Double check this circuit board, make sure I clean up everything. And I'll add another ground to it because a lot of times the ground is going to these boards. Fail. And then you run into a bunch of other electrical problems. If you like the video, hit the thumbs up. Like always till next time.