 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools, quality tools, essential support. Alright guys, so we have a new cooling cold. Don't really have good particulars of what's going on here. They weren't able to give me a whole lot of good information. Neither did the people that are here. I kind of wanted them to get a hold of the guy that actually called it in. They must not understand what I was saying. So this one's running. Just kind of go on hand touch method. It's not very cold. It just shut off, which means either just totally gave up the ghost or it's satisfied, which I find hard to believe. Oh, that's not good. And then this one here is not running, but like I said, it got upstairs and a downstairs unit on this big building. And unfortunately, had a horrible description on what's wrong. And so we're going to go ahead and check this thing over and see if we can figure it out. It's kind of like a mystery. You try to figure out if there's actually a problem, then you got to figure out which one it is. So it's everybody's favorite piece of equipment. New York. Not sure what my tech list is supposed to have going on, but that's pretty creative right there. Just the installation or something. That's working out really well. Yeah, that's not very cold. That's warm. Poor thing just keeps kicking on and off. Doesn't sound very good. Let's say let's go ahead and shut this thing down. Not promising when you see the other panel falling off of that one. I'm going to go ahead and put the gauge on it. It sounds to me just from what I hear and from what I'm seeing. Makes me think it's low on refrigerant. The furnaces are on the other side of this wall, but it just looks like a rat's nest of crud. At least we're 410A there. It's a little cheaper compared to gold. These have got to be probably the worst gauge and hookups that I've ever seen. You can't get your wrench on those to even get them unscrewed, not with a regular crescent of any sort. You have to use a dedicated wrench. And then you can't hardly get your fingers on there to screw them on. I mean, it's very, very limited on what room you got to... Yeah, you better have quick disconnects because you're going to freeze your fingers off. See if I can get this death trap plugged back in. So we're running a super low suction. We're running 7 degrees below. Yep. That could be a problem. Oh, there you go. No delay circuitry. Just let it cycle back and forth. I'll sell you a new unit. If it worked recently, who knows? Let's feel our filter dryer here to see if we got... Nope. Don't feel like no restrictions. Like I said, it's not coming back cold. You can kind of see that. Some binten on that thing or something. Let's go ahead and kill that. Let's go inside here and look at this furnace thing. So you've got two furnaces here. Got that one there. You got this one here. It appears this line here comes in, comes across, up, over, and down to here. That's assuming that this is the right one. Oh, that's nice. Look at that. The water just drains right there on the floor. That can be a problem. So it is at least running. Let's go ahead and turn that off. Let's open this thing up. Let's see what kind of metering device it's got and see if we got a leak in the evaporator. See this right here? This dark stuff. I have a feeling since I'm hearing what I'm hearing. This right here is a fancy water system for people that have sulfur water. Remember, I've mentioned that before in the past that sulfur water eats into coils? Notice how all everything's ran in plastic? See this little line right there that has a hose? That is injecting usually hydrogen peroxide, just what you've got here in this thing right there. So it's injecting hydrogen peroxide in there. Sometimes we'll use a big old tank like that one right there to try to bubble the water to get the gas out of it. So chances are we're going to have a massive leak in that coil right there. And I believe they've got another unit that we've already diagnosed that's having a leaking coil for a mini-split. It must be pretty bad in the air. Even though it's out here, you're pulling all the air from inside the building across the coil. So let's get this thing opened up and take a peek inside and see what we've got. Yeah, I'm not a fan of that flimsy stuff. Before we get that far, let's go ahead and take a look in here. Make sure this filter, although it looks horrid. Oh, yeah, that's, you kind of can see one or two drops of light through it. That ain't good, huh? Well, it looks like we don't have ATXV in there. That's really no surprise. And it looks like it's just orifice. Coil looks terrific. I've already scanned this whole coil over and I've got nothing. So let's go outside. I've kind of probed around a little bit on some of these. Most of these are bins. Some of them are fittings. The big line is mainly fittings. Well, what I ended up doing was scanning all over the coil. I didn't scan every square inch, but I scanned all the solder joints and things like that all inside there, here to there and things like that. And I'm not really picking anything up. You know, I checked down there on that nasty corrosion spot. I checked around the caps, which one of them is loose here. Nothing coming on, but what I did notice here is the other unit behind me here, it hasn't came on once. So unless that's the upstairs unit, then may not even be working on the right one, which like I said, I said, well, why don't we get a hold of the guy that called it in? So we're going to probably go back in there and see if we can get a hold of the guy that called it in. So I make sure I'm working on the right one because at this point I'm where I'm ready to add some refrigerant to it and we'll just decide how much we end up having to add to it to decide how extensive we need to look for this week. And then also be nice to know the history. Has it just happened to gotten low here in the last couple days or has it been a problem every year? So I'm doing a little more investigating here, even though this unit over here makes no sense as to why we went way up there for return air, especially means I just now kind of noticed this is a counter flow, which means this is either going to go down through the concrete, which would mean most likely the first floor. And I still don't understand why they're pulling return air way up there. It just makes no sense. So I'm going to go back in here and double check with them. So it sounds like the upstairs units low on charge. First story probably doesn't even run. So we go ahead and just pop that thing open and look inside there and see what's going on with it. Why is it not running? So disconnect looks like it might be a little bit out. That's as far as it can go. Yep. All right, let's open this thing up. Somebody's already pretty much got all the screws out of it. The capacitor's not looking real good. Another piece of insulation that ain't worth a squat. Not looking really the cleanest or the greatest. No LED lights makes me think. Okay, we got some there. That's good. So we do have some power to it. I'm going to shove the power back in. Took the little cover off the contactor there. Pressor pumps where it appears to be pumping. Let's go back inside and see what's going on here at the thermostat. All right, they're worried about the downstairs more. But we're going to focus on that one first. Yesterday, I guess it froze up all the way back to the unit. See how bad this one is. It sounds like it's probably low too. But you know that it's at least about 20 years old or better. Yeah, they've already got the filter out of that. Hopefully it's just recently been taken out and the coil's not packed full of crud. Well, the blower's not running. He said something about the blower was just replaced potentially. Oh, look at that. That sure looks like a black spot behind here. I think we might have blown a terminal out on a control board. Looks like a newer control board though. See if we can have the wattage on this thing. I think about it. Just turn it off and pull that board off. Make sure that's not the existing board that's blown up. Well, it looks like that was an old marking because I don't see anything. Damage on that. Go ahead and probe and see if we got some wattage on G. Let me see if that's why the blower's not coming on here. Let's turn this full back on. I heard a click. Heard the outside unit come on. Still no fan. So we come down here and we go to G to common. We got 24 smackers. Go from common to Y1. Also have 24. And then Y2. Now it's up 25. Wonderful. So down here is your heat and cool speeds. Just going from low cool to chassis ground. Nothing. And going to high cool. Nothing. So we've got an issue here. Now, like I said in mobile times before, I'm big into listening and smelling and doing all these things as far as my diagnostics. So let's go ahead and turn the power back off. What in the world? Things just have shaken. So we're going to go ahead and take our pick here. Let's find us a constant right there on that board says continuous. Let's go ahead and hit our go-go speed there to there and see if the fan comes on. Look at that. There goes the fan. It's kind of weird. So now it's running with nothing attached. Which one's calling blue or the red? I heard a double click there when I did that. Just go ahead and kill that. So we know the blower is good. Well now we're going to run. Do we have a control board that might have battery lay? Look at that. Perm marked out in there. Got warm, that's for sure. Either way, we've got some issues with this blower. Where I'm leaning towards is we've got a control board bad because we checked for voltage there and we had nothing. We can go back and do it again. Low cool, nothing. High cool, nothing. But pull this thing off. I didn't really know it's not high heat. Obviously must be low heat. Yep, low heat. So why do we have low heat running? When we have a call for cooling. Come back down here to G. Still got that G call. Still have the Y, no we don't have a Y. No Y, so why choose off also. So for whatever reason, I think just G only is bringing on the fan for low speed. Do this control board logic and the other ones obviously got issues. If we was to jump it back to Y1 or Y2, it's going to jump to one of those two speeds there. And it's not going to happen. It's going to drop off that. So what we need to do is wire this blower to continuously run and order them a new control board. What we, when we do this, we want to make sure that we isolate all the other blower speeds because we don't want to know back EMF. What's back EMF? Back EMF is when you have an unused speed here like this. And so we've got our probe there in that yellow one and we have our black going to ground. We have 103 volts because we're on the low speed. If we was to do that and hook it up now to the high speed, shake and let's come to yellow. Now we're on yellow, go to ground. Got 173 volts. How do we get 173 with 120 going in or so? It's called back EMF. You're generating voltage on the other side of the motor. Once the thermostat kicks out of its five minute time delay, it's going to kill power to that and it's going to switch back to regular pulling speeds. So that's the reason why we're going to have to wire it a pot. I really love this nice shake we got going on, but that would be why it froze up. One of my more favorite connectors here are these right here. We'll just put that on there with the same terminal that we have for the transformer. And we'll go from there with it until we get the board. What we're going to do, we got the power off obviously. Got that little jumper on there, that one's going to the transformer. Going to go ahead and slide that back on there. That gives the power to the transformer and to that fan speed. These ones here, we're just going to tape them off. That way they don't short against nothing because they are live ones running. That way there's no potential for a double voltage. So if it would switch back to just G only, then you might possibly damage the burn off the motor. So we're going to keep these isolated and we're only going to use one fan speed. That's why you got relays in there. So you only use one fan speed at a time. Not a good idea to run both. I've got all those wires just all taped up with little tails so I can just unravel it when I get back. It's not going to shorten anything. Now we can take it back on and we can check the operation. When I come back and change the board, I'm going to try to pull that blower out and wash the blower wheel. We probably can take a quick look at it, see if it's actually dirty. If it's not dirty, then why I just order my new blower wheel while we're at it. I always love the way they design these because now you have to yank out all this crap to get into it. So let's see if we can get in there. All right, we looked at the blower wheel on both sides here, which there's not a whole lot of room in there. And it's clean. I'm going to tell them that it has a hellacious vibration, which means it's probably going to take out the motor next. The whole furnace should just be replaced. But I'm going to note that on the paperwork that the blower wheel should probably be replaced or the furnace, whichever. Let them make the decision. That way, if something goes wide, whether it be the control board from shaking nonstop or whatever. It almost acted like a bad solder joint on there. But that way we're covered in case something else goes wrong after the fact. I'm going with the blue speed here. That way we've got a little less speed, not much, but that's about the second in the realm of speeds. Got the information so we can order the parts if they want to order them. But like I said, you really can't see it in the camera as well. Here on that of me, it's shaking. It is running and it's pumping out heat. We'll get this nice piece of insulation here back inside the unit. There we go. Good job, York. That's a really nice sound deadening piece you got there. I got that cover on the contactor again, sitting with these high end covers on here. There, now we got it back on there. It's a little bit better. Still doesn't want to fit in this area right here very well. It's kind of boat-eckard. Might be able to knock it down in there. But the coil looks like it's clean, but I'm kind of feeling a lot of heat pumping out of this turd. I'm thinking it's probably dirty, but the suction line is coming back nice and cold. You can either hit it and get it and get out of here thing, which I think what I'm going to do is probably start focusing on that one there. And then we can come back and check the charge, but you can feel that liquid line. It is hot. It is definitely hot. So there's obviously a coil here that's dirty. This is going to need washed out. And since we got water on the other side of the wall, we're going to run a hose over here and get this thing cleaned out. I went ahead and popped off these sides. Two screws on each corner here. It pops off. This mesh stuff looks like something Duquesne was using back in the day. All it does is matte full of cred, and you'll never get it perfectly clean with that on there. I'm taking it off. It's as old as it is. It's not protecting it now. And you've already got those shields for hail and damage and stuff like that. That'll allow us to clean it a little bit better and actually get it cleaned up and actually get a little bit better airflow when it's all said and done. Now, as much as I hate having to use the water that I've just complained, it's really bad for the coil. It's not going to hurt so much outside because it's a gas. We can get in here and get this thing cleaned up. It's got some palatious pressure though. Alright, cue the music. The most satisfying thing to see is the coil being cleaned. What I'll do is I get through and I knock all the crud off first. Then I'll drive it either out or in or whichever. Leaving it run. It's a little more vacuum on the unit kind of pulling the water through. I believe this is a single loop coil, but it may be more than that. If it is, we may have to split it. We'll just kind of keep getting all that nasty crud out of there and then we'll get it through the coil after that. If we have to, we'll use cleaner, but I don't know if we're going to need to or not. Sometimes I use it. A lot of times I don't. If I don't have to, I won't. That's your idea. Cleaning the coil is just spraying it off like that and then moving on to the next section. It's still dirty on the inside. We'll come back to that later. Anybody, you would think anybody could wash the coil, but obviously a lot of people can't. So let's go ahead and get this finished up and then we'll check the charge and things like that. And we'll get that other unit running after this one. Unfortunately, we got another slowdown here because these are two coils. As you can see, there's two of them there and they attach over there. So we're going to try to separate it here and wash that out. That could not drive that through. What you're going to see is the inside is matted full of crap. And it would not surprise me when it's all said and done. Now it's going to show up as low on charge because we had artificial head pressure being built up. We had to snip two wire ties on there so you could separate it. This is what they mean by splitting the coil. Comes over to here and attaches at the back. So now you can wash right through it. You'll have to do one at a time. See how much it's coming through now. I mean, that's just crazy. And then, same thing as this one. This one's not going to be too bad because it's never gotten through it through the first one. You can do either or side. But it's not, I don't know, probably go ahead and run some cleaner on it. Just helps speed this up a little bit. Okay, this portion here is going to be brought to you by Viper. This is the concentrated stuff. My bad for not getting it tight enough and it was laying upside down so it leaked a little bit. I don't like using this foaming action thing here. It'll naturally foam in the copper and aluminum hit with the, that's not even an acid, but usually has a chemical reaction. When you use this, what I don't like about it is it doesn't drive it into the coil. I usually will either use the duck bill here, what I like to call it and shoot it in that way or I'll just shoot it with nothing at all. Look at that guys, you learn something when you read the instructions. Fill the container with water, add the desired amount of pure concentrate, then use it like normal. I did that wrong last time I used it. So we're just going to use eight or nine ounces. The container actually feels good. I mean, that's squeezing it and nothing's coming out. So I must not have had it on very tight or like I said, I hadn't used it for quite a while. So it must have been set in there and eventually vibrated open, but worked into that coil there. And then come back and blast it through the rest of the way. It makes more sense to still like that. That way you're blasting it into the center of it. And you're not just on the outside coating it, which I've already went over it with thin piece. I'm kind of just dousing it, making sure we got it in there pretty deep. Then we're going to work this thing on through like traditional. Get all that nasty crap out of there. I always like to watch the backside to see where I'm at. That way you know you're actually getting it clean. All right, now see the water come through. Nice and clear. Ice and light bubbles. Got them wire tied back together. Go ahead and pop it back into the track and get this top on. Now as always, you got to watch yourself on these stupid thins because it will slice you open like that. Yum, yum. So I just got talking to one of the employees and they said this thing has had multiple control boards and blowers and stuff like that with another company. They're leaving here in about 45 minutes or less. So I'm going to go ahead and let this continue to run. We went ahead and washed this out the dirty dozen way. Believe it or not, this one is actually coming through pretty clean. You can see mainly white suds now. I had chocolate milk earlier. I went ahead and finished off the bottle of cleaner on it. I've been washing them on both sides, working my way back and forth. Mainly blew it outward first and blew it down and back out again. So we're going to run this thing, get it juiced up and get this thing hopefully going and get out of here. Now when I get done with my coil gun, I'll fill it up with water after rinsing it out. Then let that be siphon through the sprayer. I've got I think 12 years or better out of my last one, even though it wasn't that same label on it, but it was the same company I think that originally filled it. So I told them about what we did as far as taking off the plastic screen. It's there if they want to use it. So yeah, that's not trapped. You can hear it. That's nice. I mean, grand would be hard to put a trap on it, but still. When you get this thing up here, we're just going to have to slide that back on, which looks like they don't know how the heck they did that. That's kind of a mess. I don't know how they had that hooked up. Oh, that's what it is, the other units. Draining out the side. Nice. Spectacular. All right, so we actually got a floor drain right underneath there. You can see it throws all the slime. So we just took the hose, slapped it, the crap out of it, and it looks a lot better. So that's why that thing looked like it was disconnected, because they're just literally drain it straight down into there, and that one there is coming over that way. Went ahead and flushed the drain lines, too, to make sure it was all clean and clear. All right, so we've got the upstairs one running. Downstairs has been running fine. We've already got everything cleaned out here. We've got our probes in there. The trick I've been using is on the serial numbers. I've been just finding the lowest one and then putting that in a certain position, whether it be return or supply. So it's easy to remember, because I don't have all memorized. We also got our... I suppose we may not need the 915i, but that's what I got. I was sent that with it. The Testo Gages literally will calculate your superheat subcooling, all that for you. Superheat's the big thing, because it's going to calculate it off of the ductwork, just like the field piece probes do. But the cool thing it's got that the others don't is this cool solenoid. So if you really wanted to set the gauges up and then go away and let it charge the system, it can. It can charge it by superheat or subcooling. I'm not going to screw with this right now, because I haven't used it enough to be proficient to explain it, because I'm still figuring it out. I haven't read the book and I really ain't one for reading. But we'll go ahead and get that turned on and we'll get this all connected. We'll start to add some refrigerant to this system. So we're going to go in there and we've already got stuff before today. We're going to do our menu. We're going to go down in that further, go down to charging. Boom. We're going to go manual charging. The scale should pop up here in a second and then we'll zero it. There it is. 11 pounds. Hit zero. Do you want to do weight or pressure? Yes. Want to do weight. Takes it to zero. Let's go ahead and start adding some refrigerant to this thing. Let's go into return wet bulb temperatures. Go down there. It's obviously found that already. Smart probe. We're going to hit the enter button. The 605. 58 degrees. Yeah. That's the supply. So that's the wrong one. So we're going to go into that probe, scroll down to the correct one, which I put it on the smaller circle number one. Now click down to there. Now, outdoor dry bulb. That's completely the wrong one. So let's go on up here to, there we got return wet bulb at 65. That sounds about right. And let's go into the smart probe here. It's not wanting to find it. I guess in reality, they're wanting you to use the other ones. So whatever. I'm pretty sure this one got turned on possibly after the fact. So we'll go grab the other probe and bring it out here. I don't know. I've used field piece for so long, I must not be familiar with the way things work for Tesla because this just seems like common sense that you should be able to select whatever probe you want. And it's probably my fault for not creating the manual. But like several other people have said, shouldn't have to read the manual. It should be user friendly. So let's see what we got here. We got the probe out here, which they do have a nice protector here that the field piece doesn't have. So that helps protect the sensor, which is kind of nice. It's got a magnet on the backside and a magnet there that's removable, which is kind of cool. We'll just leave that over here in the nice cool area. So outdoor dry bulb. That sounds about right. Well, obviously the smartest thing to do with this thing is to use the manual Bluetooth from what I'm seeing. So I turned that on. Now I've got one, two, three, four. Four different probes. All right. So I just gave up on it and just did it old fashioned way. So we did our weight skill here. I already added one pound. So granted, we've added 4.4 pounds. We've got 15 degrees super heat, 8 degrees sub cooling, 321 and 150 on 410A. This one's good to go. Haven't checked temp drop on it. This one here, I haven't checked pressures yet on it to see where we're at on it. But everything indicates so far that it's probably working just fine. But we'll go ahead and check that real fast. And then we're going to wrap this thing up. These are awesome gauges. I've been really happy with them. But I still got to figure out the probe thing. I'm sure they work great with just the app and stuff. These are the 557s. The writing on there wipes off pretty easy. Luckily, all the rest of this stuff is inlaid and a pretty heavy duty sticker. So they got to get a better ink job going on for that part. But otherwise, they've been awesome. I've been really happy with them. I don't know if they're designed to do as much as what I'm hoping for them to do. But right now, they're not. Just having the weight skill in there is really kind of cool. I don't know if I'm going to use the solenoid a bunch, but it's just more things to hassle with. I want to be able to boom, boom, boom, boom, go, go, go. Now, I showed another video recharging the unit. I knew exactly by weight what I needed. I wanted to walk away from it, start carrying things back to the truck. That works out really good. There's signs like that that's going to work out well. Sometimes they're a little hard to see in the direct sun. Sometimes you've got to use the backlight quite a bit. But I've been pretty happy with them otherwise. They hold pressure in zero down a lot better than my old 550s did. And I don't know, overall, these things have been really cool. TrueTech Tools, where all this stuff come from. So, as always, guys, use the discount code survival to save 8% off your total order. You've got links down in the bottom below as usual. We're going to go ahead and wrap this thing up there. It wasn't to leave, and I'm so am I. This one was low. We checked for leaks. Obviously, it's got a leak somewhere. As far as, you know, how long has it been since it was properly cleaned and all that? Who's to say? They just started using us for their equipment. So another company's been doing the control board replacements on this unit here. They both have had blower boards and blowers and blower wheels and things like that. We just started doing more work here. And so there's no history for the most part other than some just recent stuff. But they got cooling. Things are working good.