 Hi you guys welcome to another episode of First Impression Friday where I take a look at a whole bunch of patterns and kind of give you guys my impressions on them, my opinions on them, and also maybe some might say overanalyze them a little bit but you know what can I say I like taking a look a deep dive into sewing patterns and if you're into that too then I think you'll love this video. I am Lindsay I sew all my own clothes and I'm so happy you found me. I hope that you'll leave a comment in the comment section below introducing yourself so that I can give you a formal hello. All right we are going to jump right into this with this Mrs. Dress by Julio Cesar. This is I you know what if it didn't say Julio's name here I can't honestly say I would have known that this design belonged to him. It's very resort very resort they describe it as halter neck dress with narrow neck ties plunging the neck bodice with gathers under the bust love that empire waist seaming with contrast band flared skirt cut on the cross grain nice with high low hemline and ruffle finish with contrast hem facings and sightseeing pockets. Okay okay all right got it I just have to make sure that I'm like absorbing all that information that I just read but we've got this really stunning I mean come on this fits her like a dream this stunning halter top right look at this like modified like sweetheart situation conforming beautifully to the curves of her body I mean obviously I know that some of you fuller chested women are out there going I could never wear this um I didn't know did it say different bust cup sizes it didn't so I you know if you want to have a hot girl summer um and make something like this even though you're fuller busted I think you totally could with some easy easy modifications I mean technically it would be a full bust adjustment but really you're just creating more room on the sides and I think that the um the gathers here will make fitting a lot easier than you might think but I think this will be stunning on any woman of any size um bust but you have this band here which looks to mimic it looks like ribbon to me um I don't know if that is what it actually is or like if that's the intention of sewing on ribbon we'll look at the um the uh notions here in a second but then you have this skirt here this is what is cut on the cross grain meaning instead of it running up and down like this it runs like this so it doesn't really do much like it's not like bias cut where it's going to change like the drape or shape of the garment itself um but if you are using something like a striped fabric obviously that would impact it and then you have this like exposed ruffle detail and then obviously the high low is also exposed where you can see the the ribbon hem too it's really really pretty here's the back which I think is also super cool so you've got these really teeny tiny spaghetti straps I think they're pronounced roll roll low uh french people I am so sorry roll Leo that's definitely not it roll you roll you am I saying it like that I gotta remember to put on my french accent with it um and then this really wide elastic casing I love a wide elastic casing um this one appears to be one inch one and a half inches maybe and then the gathers of the skirt just fall to the floor deep hem here which I also really like a lot of really great details but yeah this is a show stopper show stopper I'm thinking obviously in the fabrication that they use light and breezy 100 for the summer I mean I know it kind of seems like a lot because she's got it with um the heels but I mean you could wear this to target right imagine it in like a floral something a little bit more casual um I think it could be really pretty for any occasion even if you start thinking toward the holidays it could also be really pretty for that if you live in a tropical climate where it's not too too cold you could definitely do like some kind of glitz and glamour with the band um and a lot of really like fun fabrics like imagine it in like a brocade or something like that it could be really cool but yeah really pretty really pretty okay we don't get a ton of photos on that but um there's a line around we just saw okay here's the garbage so they're recommending obviously this is a summer pattern collection so they're pretty much only going to recommend summer fabrics I do think that that's one of the downsides to having seasonal collections because if they release this same design in December and you know suggested fabrics for like holiday and stuff they all still work there's more than these fabrics that work but new sewage wouldn't know that um with just these options but I guess that's why you're here so that I can make recommendations outside of this but rayon blends poplin shally and lightweight crepe yeah all of those sort of lightweight drapey fabrics for the summer for sure um some interfacing and then three quarter yards of one and a half inch white elastic okay so it's actually not a ribbon I mean you could use ribbon I think but what they have done is actually made bias tape so it's just really wide bias tape which is why you need almost well a little more than a yard and a half of fabric to make as much bias tape as you need to go around that entire hem so maybe do some cost analysis um against ribbon trim and see if that might be a more affordable option for you I don't see why you couldn't use a ribbon trim and in fact it might even be easier to work with I don't know or even like purchased bias tape uh not my favorite thing to use but they do have that like blanket binding prepackaged that could be an option um but the sizing is extra small to 2xl for size the numerical sizing equates to 4 to 26 and what that means is nothing because we don't have any finished garment measurements width wise so yeah I mean they aren't even putting the body measurements on here anymore so who knows who knows it does come in two separate envelopes extra small to medium is in one large 2x is in the other one but remember to like if your pair like me buy based on this because this is all so voluminous that whatever pattern and design ease is in there already it's going to be plenty um you really want it to fit right here at this empire waist all right Julio kicking us off with a good what is happening a good um a good start all right now we've got another pattern from Tom and Linda Platt who are always known for like piecing like their stuff always has like interesting like shapes and you know it's never just like one piece for the bodice this one appears to be like a full princess seam situation fitted and flared dress is close fitting through the bust and has a shaped yoke bias armhole binding princess seams with top stitching invisible back zipper hook and eye closure stitched handkerchief him with mitered points oh fancy okay so it has this is not like a facing this is a almost like a collar kind of it is I will say a little bit difficult to sew this um but I do love how the like neckband becomes the shoulder I think that's a really interesting detail and then like it said it has the princess seams with the top stitching so very kind of sportswear and then it is a midi length with this handkerchief him that's been turned under but has the really nice finish of the mitered corners here's the back so yeah it looks like your zipper comes up the back and then there's a little hook and eye up top here they didn't get a super fit super great fit on her through the back it's a little bit too big but pulling away from her body here and you can just see kind of some of the fullness that is unnecessary obviously we would be working on that on our own um she's probably just a fit model and they you know didn't make it custom to her there's also this interesting little fold hard to say if that's construction or if it's just a little bit too big for her in the back but cute I think white is a great application for this it's a little long for like yeah I think it would be really cute knee length which is not a difficult alteration to make it all if you wanted to make it more daytime but I mean it's also you know I'm trying to picture it like with a not with a heel like with a sandal when you look at the line drawings you can definitely get that like sportswear vibe from it I'm imagining that they are going to be recommending like mid weight yeah mid weight crepe linen blends and then rayon shally which is a little lightweight I think for all the top stitching plus shally and this collar more power to you if you're going to take that on the more stable your fabric the better I mean this is interface but when you go to put the lining of it on yeah it's going to be a little bit tricky but yeah I like anything maybe even like a sateen would be really great all right so fusible interfacing a zipper and then our sizes are six to 14 and then 14 to 22 I love when they do an overlap um if you're in between sizes it's really easy to kind of match these two up and then grade between three sizes even though it's two different envelopes um yeah quite a fabric hog here four and a half yards of fashion fabric and then the finished garment measurements on this one are 33 to 46 and a half finished and it is a fitted bodice so it's not going to be like no ease in the bust but maybe like two or three inches at most finish waistline is here also because again it's fitted through the waist um so again that two to three inches perfect classic simple love that okay here's another really fun one and this is going to be a good example of like a day to night I think which is what I've been trying to kind of maybe illustrate in the last two patterns like how to make it fancy but also how to maybe make it a little bit more casual so they've got two samples on this one um this is an in-house design maybe that's why fit in flare dress lined close fitting through bust has cut in shoulders which are beautiful deep the neckline love empire waist seeming wonderful with top stitching princess seams side seam pockets narrow straps center back zip stitched hem and link variations and there are separate cup sizes for this one what a cute little design right so we've got this really fun neckline um you can see the princess seam here I imagine it's mimicked over here the top stitched um empire seam and then princess seams through here so super super flattering on a lot of different body types like most I will say though this could just be the angle but this looks a little like side boob territory um you might need to see about filling this in or raising this up even it does also seem a little bit low let's look at the back oh here's the like more casual version that fabric is stunning yeah super low on the sides right you really only need two finger widths from like the depth of your armpit to where your underarms start so it should be closer to up here for sure but this is just a really an ankle length version on borderline maxi here's another good shot at the underarm just way way way too low and almost like cut in too far on the front oh here's where the pocket comes in that's fun here's the back gorgeous fit right I mean that fits her freaking perfectly um but that's a little strap that they mentioned uh center back uh what's it called it's not lapped I always get these two confused centered that is called centered zip and just like an amazing amazing fit I hope they let her keep this um it looks really good on her same here same here so um beautiful I think that the waist in the back is in the exact right point you can see how her body's coming in this is definitely the smallest part of her body so they got the length of that right on yeah that's a cute one cute one for sure there are our line drawings they're the same just one's longer um love it okay and then the back of the envelope jacquard satin and cara fabric and crate but I mean so these are a little bit more like dressy nighttime I'm imagining like you're on a cruise and you're going to the dinner kind of thing but this can also 100% make be made out of like a sportswear fabric and be worn to work to church to like you know anything I mean you could make this and wear it literally anywhere it would be super super flattering you would look like a million bucks 22 inch simper is the only notion um you do need quite a bit of interfacing that makes me think that a lot of this bodice is interfaced so that's really interesting just make sure that if you do like a lighter weight fabric just that you're lining that you're interfacing weight matches up to your fabric weight which is why I love the heat and bond product so much because they have so many wonderful options for different fabrics I have a whole video on interfacing I will link that let's just put it in the description box and so you guys can learn about all the different weights of interfacing that are available through them um what else you know what considering the fullness of that skirt two and a half yards for the short version is not that bad it does get up to five yards for the full length version and it is fully lined you actually need more lining than you do fabric oh because the lining is supposedly more narrow um um yeah fully lined which I don't know that that's necessary either especially if you're going to make more of a casual version you know vogue is always going to be kind of like our elevated more fancy more you know polished brand of all of them so I get why they're doing fully lined but you could definitely cut some corners and and only line that bodice finish garment measurements for the different bust cups I'm just going to do the full range we have a range of 33 inches up to 52 and a half depending on how full your bust is within all of this and they didn't give us a waist measurement but hopefully it's on the pattern pieces themselves but you should yeah you should definitely be buying this based on your bust anyways I love this very pretty okay then we have this cute little number oh by claire shaper I can't say I don't know that we've seen a claire shaper number in quite a while so fun to see that she's back a lot of really interesting style lines on this one also bias cut which if you this is your first time tuning in I'll say it quickly but bias cut dresses flatter every single body type that's all I'm going to say about that they're just perfection clothes fitting through bust lining sewn by hand okay has front darts deep v back neckline with band detail back zipper sewn by hand with hook and eye closure lingerie guards so like bra carriers blind him with interfacing and him waits I mean you want a couture sewing experience this is your pattern if you want something that you can just like hyper focus on the details claire has got your back so I have thoughts on the fit so this neckline super beautiful the way that it's cut on shoulder excellent the dip of the arm side pretty much spot on maybe it could be a touch higher but this seems a little bit high to me or long maybe that's it maybe more long than high like it should stop out here somewhere right are y'all is that the are y'all seeing it the same way as me but if you were to get those right look how cool this is I mean certainly not the easiest thing to sew anything that comes to a point like this but super super cool right I mean talk about ladies who lunch ooh wow so this is like a little bit of a vintage nod right to have this almost kind of like a lapel situation happening I think they called it a band in the description but the center back zip stops mid-back I do think that if you were a bra it would show so that's something to keep in mind fancy yeah custom couture collection yeah even on the line drawing it looks really high could that possibly be the intent I don't know okay I'm sure we're gonna get some fancy fabric suggestions yep Mikado which is like a silk wool crepe silk dupeoni and you know what like yes you could absolutely make this out of like a sateen or something more casual but like are you really going to go through the trouble of hand sewing a lining for like a dress that you just throw on for every day no this is like a special thing I'm imagining it in white for some version of a wedding thing or even as a wedding guest bridesmaids like this is a fancy fancy dress the lining they're recommending charmous and china silk so I mean she's not like minting words here like this is a couture dress and that's what it's supposed to be into story the interfacing silk organza you know what I mean okay so we've got an 11 inch zipper because it only goes like halfway up your back hook and eye and then hem weights just two yards so if you are going to make this and you want to go all in on silk you know it's not going to be I mean you're not going to go bankrupt over it the lining a little less than two yards and you're interfacing a little over a yard which makes me think that this entire bodice is interfaced finished fuss measurements 33 and a half to 47 waistline is 27 and a half to 41 so not the most inclusive thing we've ever seen there will be some ease some design ease in the hip but really not that much I mean it's pretty close fitting throughout very slight like a line happening here okay next we have this cutie this seems to be an in-house design okay the in-house designs are going to give us a lot more options and intended more so for the masses than some of these designer based ones when they when they do the designer patterns they really have to stick with the designer's intention and if that designer is not inclusive or very very fancy that's just what you're going to get with them but the in-house can borderline you know can can kind of you know explore that gray area a little bit crisscross halter dress fully lined has front and back bodice pleats waistband flared skirt sightseeing pockets invisible back zipper hook and eye closure stitch gems and length variations pretty bodice something very different right I think some of the criticisms we gave big four through the pandemic was that things got way too simple it was like we can get this from an indie designer like we we come to big four because you guys have like the pattern drafting expertise the design expertise like you're supposed to like follow the trends and stay like ahead of things where I feel like during the pandemic it was just like let's just put some elastic waist pants up and call it a day um but look how beautiful this is I mean really really pretty so this halter that wraps around your neck all these beautiful pleats and folds you've got an actual waistband I can't tell you the last time we saw that center front seam on the skirt and then also a sightseeing pocket and it is just below the knee length here it is in black with a belt that is purchased I had hoped that that was part of the pattern but it is not but I mean look at it in black satin stunning cute I love that they made two versions you've got your little bit more of like a I don't know tea party brunch you know some version of a wedding guest and then you have the black version which is you know a little bit more date night evening all right so there are some issues with the bodice length here as you can tell this is pulling away from her there's just really no I mean for no pun intended but wiggle room here because the bodice is it goes into this neck band so whatever the length between your neck and your waist is like if there's too much fabric there like your body's just going to push that fabric away especially with a zipper that's like kind of stiff so checking that waist measurement is going to be imperative it didn't look bad on the front but this is way too long for her by about I mean an inch maybe more than that you could pinch out of maybe two inches actually but if we're imagining this nice and flat against her body it's you know would be really beautiful again with the pleating detail kind of coming down this hitting at her waist which is really more up here would be really nice the skirt looks great hers looks exceptional she's just obviously I mean you can tell like she's got a long torso she's much taller than the other model so you can see kind of the difference between a well-fitting bodice and not um super pretty yeah I mean look at them side by side like average torso length she's like very tall which good for her yeah okay um line drawings yep there we have it yeah I really love all the details on this one I really do okay now envelope crepe satin rayon shally broadcloth yeah a lot of really good options through here um because it's really a bunch of pleats and no I don't think I saw any darts at all it's all made up of pleats you could really get away with drapeier fabrics that I mean I don't know that I would go so far as like all silky types of fabric a little bit more weight I think will help you just in terms of execution especially like with this waistband um and just like pressing these to get them so perfect I think would be better in something a little bit more weightier um even if you did like a rayon wall or I mean rayon is still good because that is going to give you the drape but something a little bit heavier weight you know what I mean would be nice not heavy weight but in this category of light to medium weight fabrics okay so you have lining you also have interfacing you have a zipper two hooks and eye for the like the back neck like collar thing two size ranges six to 14 and then 14 to 22 so clearly they have not you remember uh Mimi Jean made that post earlier this year about extending the size ranges that is clearly not gotten over to the both side yet fully embraced in simplicity and in mccalls for sure butteric I can't say for sure I can't remember what their spring sizing looked like but for for vogue we're still just stuck at the 22 inch as the size 22 as the as the largest um and no finished garment measurements on this one either so um just a little less than a yard of interfacing probably for the waistband and the neckband I think or maybe even that whole bodice I don't know if you do the whole bodice in three quarters of your maybe but definitely the waistband for sure and maybe some portion of that neckband or the neck detail um three and throughout three yards of fabric for a the whole thing is lined which again you don't have to line the skirt especially if you're doing the heavier weight opaque non sheer fabrics um and then dress B which is the longer one the black one four and a half yards cute all right now we have look at this stunner a another in-house design lined dress so again fully lined close fitting through bust and waist has wide square neckline flared skirt with diagonal gathers under the waist line diagonal gathers maybe we'll be able to see what that means side seam pockets low cut back with invisible zipper stitched him with horse hair braid and contrast variation separate pattern pieces for your bodices okay a lot going on here so square neckline sort of a wide ish strap princess seam into I don't know what diagonal gathers mean oh wait it's this we'll be able to see it better on the line drawing so it's gathered into the waist seam and then something else is gathered here that creates the pocket that's kind of cute yeah yeah yeah you can totally see it here to give more fullness to the sides um and then this is the horse hair braid well underneath you have to just kind of imagine it but that's what gives it this like ribbony kind of vibe this is totally like right off the last year's spring runway um it might be a little long-waisted and there's a lot of ease in the bodice for both women um it's not like it's not as fitted as I would probably like it's just sitting away from the body like a little bit more they did try to make this version a little bit more casual but I think you could probably even go I don't know I'm trying to like chambray but maybe not maybe you just need to embrace it as like a fun party girl dress there's the low back it's really really cute that means not going to fit in for everybody's lifestyle but it is really cute you can see how big the bodice is here right maybe it is just too big after all that maybe it is just too big but looks great through the waist yeah I want to have somewhere to wear this but I don't think I do but maybe get it now and make it in red for the holidays or for your next you know whatever big event you might have to go to we will get back there guys like we will eventually have parties again okay so yeah you can really see the diagonal gathers that they're speaking of here so cute I wonder if I wonder how cute it would be to make this with a just like not with the bodice but like with a waistband of some kind and then like casual casual up with like a you know rib body suit or something I yeah I just want to make this skirt I think so they're recommending micado poplin lightweight twill satin so I mean lightweight twill is a little sports wary poplin is kind of cash lining fabric interfacing 12 inch zipper five and a half yards of two inch wide horse hair braid horse hair trim now you don't have to use the horse hair if you don't your skirt will just fall closer to your body especially if you use like a lighter weight fabric the horse hair is really just gives the volume to the hem but you could definitely leave it off if you feel like that makes it too fancy but it really does help with all these gathers to give them something to kind of like sit in you know I mean like all of this gap all this fabric that's gathered into this thing kind of expands out into here and if you don't have the horse hair braid it might just fall flat you know it will literally it will fall flat but I also mean like in terms of like impressiveness and like just the appearance of it all will just seem a little bit meh so try it you can always take it out if you don't like it right um 6 to 14 14 to 22 again on the sizing you need a lot of interfacing I'm guessing yeah they're really into the interfacing these days I can't imagine that whole bodice maybe the straps for sure I don't know what else would be um fully lined like it said uh then your dress is about three yards for the short version and a little bit more for the longer one and then your bust cup sizes are 34 to 50 and a half but I mean if they are making their standard size for fit models like I assume I don't know how this works for real maybe somebody can tell me but I assume that they say okay we're making a size four and all their garments they make a size four and then for their fit models when they do like a casting they say we're looking for models that fit XYZ measurements and then when we see it here and it looks too big on them that's because the size four was actually graded too big is that that's how I imagine it happens so if that's the case then even your 34 even your 34 here like let's say this was your size might be too big for you to so it's important that's why I like the fast fit worksheet because it really does analyze the size against not just pattern ease not just wearing ease but also the design ease as well so all right next oh vintage okay my vintage girlies just sat up in their seats a little bit because Jackie oh showed up to the inauguration she's here evening or mid knee length full strapless dress I don't know what a partial strapless dress is is gathered into full underdress with foundation maybe these are like vintage terms that I just don't understand if a full strapless is something than a non full strapless let me know also what is full underdress with foundation what does that even mean self bias tube bow or ribbon bow is under bustline okay got it two and a quarter inch him allowed on dress narrow him for sheer fabrics okay this is why I used to not even review vintage patterns because I just don't understand the construction of them at all but from what I can tell we've got this like this like almost like a cummerbund effect turned sideways turned up and down instead of the little thing these going this way they're going this way into this little ribbon thing which you can either make with self fabric or use a ribbon and it gets attached into this little side scene and then all of this is like extra here it is in a sheer with a sheer overlay you can see that ribbon stopping there I'm imagining this is like a velvet and then you've got like satin underneath and then this sheer on top but so all of this is like super super full whereas in the front all of that fullness is kind of pulled into this little bow it is a really really really sweet design 1966 yeah I mean it's really really something it doesn't look like much in the line drawings but those little illustrations are adorable okay dress and under dress oh under dress full under dress okay so the under dress is the is the is the this part the dark part underneath here that's like close fitting so am I to assume that under this is a close fitting dress as well wow so you're basically making two freaking dresses so you have your brocade crepe satin and silk for the under dress and then for this outer layer sheer fabric such as chiffon and wool and then the foundation dress foundation is oh gosh look and then underlining how many layers are on this dress oh my goodness yeah I could not make heads or tails of this without looking at like I guess the instructions and then there's a hem interfacing where you use cotton flannel wow four very small covered snaps hooks and eye feather boning grosgrain ribbon ribbon elastic twill tape zigzag wire stays what is that I am overwhelmed my head is spinning okay but they did make the sizing one size larger six to 14 and then 16 to 24 when they add this larger size you lose the overlaid uh size I do not for the life of me understand why we can't maintain like why is there a limit to five sizes per pattern I don't get it like indie posts are like putting like 30 sizes in one I don't understand um so five yards of fabric for the long version then your under dress then your additional under dress yeah you guys can just take a look at all that that you will need and then your bust line measurements for the foundation are 33 to 48 and a half your hip line for the under dress which I don't even know why that is that separate than the foundation oh my gosh okay well there you go those are your sizes we have another little vintage pattern to look at but this one's more like it's a calf dance I'm imagining it's a little simpler please tell me there aren't like 45 dresses underneath this one dress very loose fitting pull over evening length calf tan look how long this description is for a calf tan has front oval and back scooped neckline side front side back seams no side seams okay side panels with square arm hole okay slightly above elbow length shaped cape sleeves extending to hemline wow okay and narrow hem yes front buttonhole openings at waistline are for purchased cording holding and front fullness okay top stitching shading will occur with nap fabrics I think that that last the little bit about the nap fabrics means that not everything is cut on the straight grain maybe and that or maybe because some of it is cut on the bias you will it'll just look like your fabric is different colors even when it's not it's not a bad thing necessarily okay so high neckline here are your not side seams what do they call them like side front seams that goes into this sleeve that does have a seam on the top and then all of that kind of just comes down cascade cascade cascade all about this narrow hem that you can see at certain portions then you have this little belt that comes through little buttonholes and I imagine it's stitched into this only through the front so on the back you're not going to have one at all yeah low scoop back why does she look like she's on stilts like nobody is this like where is her butt here no but no she looks like I get that you can be long-waisted I get that you can have long legs she has bowed but I guess that was like the style of the the fashion illustrations back then in 1979 design very share share vibes super simple to sew okay and then yardage crepe de sheen crepe by T. Shelly yeah you really want those lightweight drapey fabrics two yards of cording all of your sizes are in one extra small to 2x which equates to a 4 to a 26 that's about as inclusive as vogue is ever going to get and then of course your finished measurements are very full because this is just a very oversized dress five and a half yards of fabric good grief okay now we have this little guy okay just taking it in give me a second loose fitting pull over top has low v neckline yeah I mean that neckline goes to here almost to her belly button ruched bodice bias neck armhole facings dropped shoulder front ties elastic waist length variation dropped shoulder yes dropped waist was that is that the intent so you've got this deep v bias bound drop shoulder which it said armhole facings but they must be like baby facings pretty much like bias tape then you've got all these gathers into more bias appearing something like that's not just a scene there's like an actual like something there same here with this scoopy one and then there's an elastic there's elastic in here I don't see why it's not holding anything in just to give it structure but then why not execute it the same way that this was executed what is the point of the elastic I do like this I do like this I do like this the dress oh gosh I don't know if I'm far away I think it's this that's throwing me off let's see the line drawings I mean the line drawings make it look like that's supposed to be your waistline and this is supposed to be your under bust and this is your over bust and so I yeah this is just way too long like this whole thing needs to be way up here and then this all needs to be like in here somewhere and I think that's what's throwing me off about it is it's just way too long for both of them this fits her a little bit better up here but even still this needs to be like an inch or two higher so I can't as I'm having a hard time even visualizing well no I can visualize that but I can't tell if that is the difference enough so that I would want to make it and it would be cute I think it's different enough unique enough of a design not like something we see anywhere else it looks very ready to wear that I'd be willing to try it I know this style would be very flattering on me you know because you it'll give that appearance of an hourglass and us pairs are usually like straighter down and then out so when you have something that makes you look wider that's a bad way to say it at the top it gives that hourglass illusion plus you have all this like pulling in and gathering and ruching that's just super flattering anyways like it's going to float away from the body pretty much everywhere except for where these little things are I think I like it I think when you raise the hem it's going to look a lot more just a lot better this the proportions on this are all wrong so keep that in mind if you are going to be grabbing this guy because that is the waistline right that's not a dropped waist I think it would have said dropped waist somewhere in here don't you yeah it could be really cute I love the idea that you can make this out of like swiss dot gauze lightweight cotton like the inexpensive fabrics so it wouldn't be a huge investment they recommend poplin gauze shali broadcloth any of those like cotton types any kind of lightweight linen blend rayon linen any of that would be great and then you need elastic three eighths inch elastic that's it for notions it's a pullover top a pullover top and dress 6 to 14 14 to 22 a little less than two and a half yards for the top a little less than three and a quarter yards for the dress and that's just because so much of this is being cinched in to create all of this ruching no garment measurements okay now we've got oh lord mrs top shorts and skirt why they chose this as the cover photo and not this is beyond me I don't get it I don't get it um anyways we're not going to dive too deep into that but this is the description close fitting lined bra top so I think what's been missing from sort of the crop tops that simplicity released the um you know all the like uh shoot what corset tops that mccalls did is the sort of finish of them all are not super polished this is this looks like a corseted crop top that is going to have the structure that you need to wear it on its own um it has cup-seaning contrast edge stitching and top stitching separating zipper on the back high rise cinny fitted shorts have front pockets with reverse construction bands reverse construction bands I'm assuming that has something to do with how these are constructed button trim back dart stitched him's top stitching skirt has plates and high low hem wrong side shows shorts and skirt have side hook and eye and invisible zipper closing I love a side zip on bottoms heavy duty top stitch thread recommended complete the look with these gold buttons okay um I love that they're like you know trying to cross promote it's really funny um okay so here is the bra top like I said beautifully constructed the style lines all of it is perfect it does not come with multiple cup sizes though like I don't understand that either like clearly of all the times when we need multiple cup sizes it's this so sorry big chest girly's and and little chest girly's like or all of you that don't just fit into like the average in the north I'm sorry because this is really cute all right and then the shorts um a little long in the rise that I can forgive um also some things happening here I think it'll be more evident when we see the back if they show us the back um the dark contrast oh I can see the reverse construction this is like almost like a patch pocket would be sort of you know this is like um if you were to run your hand over this it would not be smooth it's like turned under here I hope I'm explaining that well um anyways the the the top stitching is fine here I don't know why I don't like it as much on the shorts I can't tell that's because the weight of the fabric on the shorts maybe but I mean here is I mean just everyone's dream summer vacation outfit right I mean yeah I don't know if it's suitable for target but I still want one um and you can see the wrong side of the fabric like they said so they picked one where the front and the back look very similar thank you it's probably just some kind of cotton situation yeah the shorts look better on this pose hands and pockets actually the back looks okay I was expecting a nightmare in the back there's just a lot of fullness through the inseam which is causing um this little fold and the one that was in the front but honestly this curve looks okay still a little bit on the long side uh rise wise rise wise um and then this man so you know I just made that top for the sew along that has the separating zipper that top comes down to here and I do not have any trouble zipping it at all um this being higher I mean I guess it's like clasping a bathing suit you know where you have that like almost like a really long hook that goes into the little casing thing I guess if you're but ambidext if you're but dexter if your dexterity is good enough to do that then you could probably do this but good on them for getting this little stitching line absolutely perfect straight across love that for them but it is a centered zipper so that you know does help it it's a little bit easier I love the top here's the back of the skirt again because you have that side zip it just creates such a beautiful just everything about the way this lays is really pretty and I love that they're using like a metal like fashiony zipper that's cute yeah the shorts are take it or leave it the skirt has even like I've got those you know this I would be buying this solely for this bra top yeah it's a nice it's a good design here all right yardage can't be much right twill linen Ankara satin oh maybe that's what she's wearing in the skirt is Ankara the same right to wrong it might be yeah it definitely is lining fabric lightweight fusible interfacing heavy duty top stitch thread separating zipper buttons for the shorts and then invisible zipper hook and eye for the skirt I'll say about the heavy duty top stitch thread I do think that that adds an element of structure to something like the bra top but it does not do anything structurally for the shorts so maybe that's why I'm feeling like it's a little bit weird on the short but 6 to 14 14 to 22 the top is a almost a half yard wonder which don't exist and then fully lined interfacing no that can't be right oh because it's 20 inches wide yeah uh and then your shorts one and a half ish skirt one and a half so yeah about two yards all in all not bad and that's if you made them matchy matchy okay I'm feeling this oh it's just the skirt I was like I like that knit top okay flared skirts have contoured waistband which I have thoughts on already with button closure fly zipper side front pockets and front and back unpressed pleats narrow hem and length variations so this is a pleated skirt with belt carriers wide waistband now contoured waistbands now that I'm looking at it I do believe does that say juicy like as in juicy couture um where was I waistband yes curt contoured waistband so contoured waistbands mean that the waistband is not just a straight strip of fabric that is sewn or you know onto the skirt it actually has like a u shape to it not as dramatic as a u maybe more like a c um and normally when skirts sit high up on the waist like this one does you don't need that because your body isn't super curvy there but because this one is longer you can actually see how it needs a little bit of contouring to get around you know this what is beginning the beginnings of her kind of hip curve here is just a shorter one oh it actually has a fly closure did it say that I must have just like powered through and wasn't paying attention unpressed pleats pockets yeah very very sportswear like I don't know that they really executed this pattern to the best of what it can be maybe the styling is what is off because it's I mean we get to the line drawings you're going to see like it's not a revolutionary design but I don't know something about it isn't like grabbing me maybe I would have liked it better yeah I think this ah the styling is all I can think it's cute enough right yeah I don't know something about it's just like yeah not grabbing me it's really the only way I know how to explain it um linen royal 12 never seen that before broadcloth shali yeah maybe that's what it is it's the fabric choice being too lightweight like where is I don't know what royal twill is is that the same as twill twill um like yeah more like the sportswear type of stuff is maybe how I'd see it but like I said cute enough though you know like if you need a pleated skirt that's kind of like an everyday pleated skirt um lining fabric and fusible interfacing seven inch zipper and one button 6 to 14 and then 16 to 24 so we do have that larger size here just like five eighths of a yard of interfacing two and a half yards for the short skirt almost four for the long skirt and then half a yard of lining because it's just probably for the waistband um so waistline measurement 25 inches up to 41 and again that is about as inclusive as you're going to get from vogue the only one they're missing here is the size four and really the only thing that you have to fit here is the waistband I would have I would have half a mind to just muslin the waistband and if you get that to fit and then you fit your pleats into the waistband the rest of it the fit is going to be fine okay this is some kind of cover up mrs jacket and pants by sandra bitzina okay so sandra is known for her like she has her own way of fitting I think it's by like letters um and always very like interesting structurally like you can see there's lantern sleeves and you know this interesting cuff here um so always really unique fun designs from her loose fitting unlined topper with asymmetrical hem raglan sleeves with wide cuffs side panel and hood you a has separating front and zipper side seam pockets purchase bias armhole facings hmm uh flat belt seams and contrast hood lining and cups whoo bb has front button and thread loop closure or contrast sleeves french seams and purchase biased hem binding pull on pants have draped inside leg okay wait wait wait I have to go back what did that say contrast sleeves french seams and purchase bias hem binding okay now I need to see the differences okay so this is a right these little teardrop pockets that are top stitched down asymmetrical hem zipper front but it's open from here down raglan sleeves contrast cuff contrast hood lining I think that was everything and in this other one same pattern pieces I see this has a thread and button closure so not a zipper and then because I guess it's intended for shears you finish this seam with bias binding I guess I think that that is super freaking cool I get that they're using it as like a cover up because I'm thinking she has a bathing suit underneath depending showing the skin here through the eyelet but imagine if this eyelet was a solid fabric and maybe you'd want to make it a little bit longer through the front I think that'd be a really cute dress there it is opened in the front really big hood interesting pick for summer I guess that's why they made it out of the sheer fabrics to show you like but am I wearing a hooded garment to the beach or pool maybe and then they barely showed the pants but maybe the pants are knit if that's the case I'm buying this pattern for the pants alone because tell me that wouldn't be like the most comfortable thing you've ever worn here are the line drawings for the jackets yardage is for the two jackets lot linen eyelets silk crate also stretch mesh if you want to do the contrast sleeve I think you could do a lot of different fabrics through here I wouldn't just relegate it to these three for sure even like like a waterproof type fabric or like a like a windbreaker type of fabric yeah I mean a lot of different fabrics would be suitable for that and then yes the pants are knit incredible want those on my body right now 50 stretch on the cross grain so one-way stretch 50 percent which is pretty significant I'd go the cotton swing next route if it were me but interfacing for the jacket is organza and then one 24 inch separating zipper a big button bias tape and then this all the sizes come in one a through j i'm entirely sure what a through j means but it's well the jacket's very loose fitting but 37 and a half up to 60 and a half and then your fabric requirements through here no waist measurement on those pants okay or hip okay next up we're going into some swimwear menswear both of which I don't I nervous to speak on so how about we just like look at them I just don't understand the construction of either so that's why I don't like to do I don't like to review something that I don't fully understand hope you can understand that but this says line swimsuits have contrast narrow binding bruising front cutouts leg openings finished with elastic view a is halter style and ties in back view b has narrow straps I mean it is cute okay oh that one's fun too uh-huh I like this is this if this is ruching I like that a lot but the back is really pretty comes down to that pretty v okay yeah looks great on these girls yeah and it is ruching I do like that a little ruching through here too perfect looks good to me I'm sure if you've ever done lingerie or something you're looking at this and going oh my god this thing isn't fitting right but to the naked eye looks good I think that this one would also be an equally cute like bodysuit if you made it out of like rib knit or something I don't know maybe not um swimwear fabrics with four-way stretch 75% stretch to be exact uh swimwear lining uh swimwear and elastic didn't even know they made that three yards for a blah blah okay and then 8 to 16 and 18 to 26 excuse me literally I don't think I've ever seen this size combination from vogue ever and 8 to 16 I mean that obviously eliminates the petite girls so they're all sitting here going wait what but it adds in a whole bunch more full size women so where's the model oh so frustrating okay that's your fabric requirements really not a lot I guess maybe that's a lot for a swimsuit I don't know and then we're not going to get any finished measurements to tell us what a size 26 even means all right well then we have these guys swimsuits and tank tops honestly I have no idea what's going on here but I love a man in short shorts and if you're watching this at work you might want to just go ahead and call it now because I see Speedos which I just at a periodicity need to know what and why I the short looks great I if Dan were wearing that I'd be like yes babe you look wonderful this okay okay it's a lot but he seems pleased he seems very happy so there's that all right guys literally gentlemen here you go this is your hot girl summer are guys wearing Speedos really maybe in Italy you know but like here like if I go out to Myrtle Beach I'm going to see somebody in a Speedo I just want to leave you with that next we have this little men's outfit super cute shortened pants and then his little linen pants and shirt also super cute I love the representation here right I love that there are three men's patterns that might be a record I think we're usually seeing like one maybe two and maybe one of those is unisex so it sort of is like cheating so I'm happy to see these for all of our you know mainly men's wares out there if you don't know him he has a great account so I love that for them I do that they look great I mean the fit on this I mean the dance showed up like this to anything I would be like yes looks great we should have like this I'd be like uh-huh you know I wouldn't be upset with that at all so yay all right with all that though that is our Vogue summer and honestly you guys we I think we're in redemption period here there's a lot there is a lot I feel like everybody's kind of like back got their heads in the game again you know what I'm saying um for vogue you know what I'm saying because they're always going to be a little bit high design um a little bit I love that that's that full screen and then it just didn't um they're always going to be high design right they're always going to be like the closest to like couture finishes that we can possibly get um but even with that we have some designs that can be read as day night fancy event casual event um so I like that for vogue because I like vogue construction but I don't always have a fancy event to go to so I like whenever they can combine good construction with something I'd wear to target overall I mean of course there are some exceptions as with anything everything seems to be fitting really well designed really well um yeah so there's a lot of really great qualities about this collection for sure as with any sewing pattern though you know you have to make adjustments unique to you and then my only last thought is I hope by the end of this year we can see some larger size ranges from vogue I mean I get that it's slow to make big changes in a company like that but hopefully we can get there by get everybody on board everybody at whatever I don't even know the name of the company anymore like whoever owns all these patterns companies the big four five six that we have now um I hope we can get everybody on board with the plus sizing and petite sizing you know like the range should be the four to 28 or whatever it is for all of them even if that means there's three envelopes even if that means god forbid you put more than five sizes in one pattern anyways I want to know what you guys think of the collection leave a comment in the comment section below yeah I guess I gotta start saving my coin because yeah there's definitely someone that I want to get but I want to know which ones you love which ones you're going to be buying which ones you love um any just any thoughts you have about the collection at all leave them in the comment section below but that's gonna do it for me y'all I will see you all very soon bye