 John Park. It is time for John Park's workshop. It's actually an hour after time for John Park's workshop. Sorry, due to circumstances, we had to push an hour today. I hope it is not too late for some of you. Maybe it's super early for others of you in weird parts of the world. I shouldn't call them weird in different parts of the world. Hello to our peoples in the chats. We've got Johnny Bergdahl, BlitzCityDIY, Paul Cutler. Hello, hello. David Dessa. Here's our Discord chat, by the way. If you're wondering where the chats are, that's a good one to check out if you're over on Facebook or LinkedIn or Twitch or, I don't know, Twitter. Do we still do that? And you're wondering why is no one here? It's because we're over in the Discord chat. That's kind of our unified chat. You can head over to adafru.it slash discord and look for that live broadcast chat channel that you see right there on the side. It's right there. Hello, Todd Bott. Hey, C Grover. Nice to see you all. So, yeah, the stuff I'm working on today, we've got, what do we've got? We've got a coupon code for you so you can buy some stuff in the store. That's what helped keep the lights on at unified Adafruit Industries all over, distributed. I've got a recap of the product pick of the week from the Tuesday show. I've got a Circuit Python parsec for you. I have a little, I'll do a little update on the PlayStation controller from last week. I'm working on the guide for that. I'm actually going to have to run and grab that to show you the thing I want to show you, I think. Lots of stuff going on for the new project that I'm going to be starting today, which is the joystick X arcade conversion. It is, in this case, the tank stick, but this will work for pretty much any arcade cabinet style or joystick style conversion that you want to do to use it in a modern system with USB. I've shown this one before when I got the device. You might see a little piece of it poking up over there, piece of a giant joystick. That thing right there. Oh, look at that. That's what we'll be working with. And that should cover it. So let's see. Let's start off with a coupon code. This is today's coupon code, appropriately enough, joystick. What are the odds? That will get you 10% off in the store. Just go buy your stuff and on the way out, look for the coupon code field, type in joystick. I have no idea if it's case sensitive, but I'd do it in all caps, just to be sure. And that will get you the discount today. If you want to take a look here, look, here is the Adafruit store right here. Under products, new products, view all. You can see some of the cool new stuff. These are not in the store yet, these cool cameras that are coming. But here's some flex cable for the NVMe base for the Raspberry Pi 5. If you want to use a fast hard drive with it, we've got this little cute ElecFreak Smart Cute Bot Pro. We have a bunch of new IR stuff. We've got breakout boards for analog switches. There's actually a new guide that Liz put out for these analog switches that you can go check out. Looking forward to using those and seeing what projects Liz comes up with for those. And more and more. So if you want to get some of that cool stuff and get yourself a little discount, joystick is the coupon code. And that's going to be good today until midnight tonight, east coast time. I think that's how that works. Next up, let's, I'm going to see if I can show you the recap of my product pick of the week and during that run to my little studio office and grab the PlayStation controller. So I'm going to disappear for a second, but this is what I'm talking about right here. I've got the product pick of the week show on Tuesdays on which we have one or two or more products. We had two new ones this week. I like to do a little demo with them and give you a big, deep discount just during the show. There's no coupon codes on that one. This week it was these cool programmers. So check it out. The UPDI programmer and the high voltage UPDI programmer, USB serial programmers, which you can use with your AT tiny chips, three pin JSTSH cable that it comes with, that is going into the power on my little AT tiny 1616. I've got ground and then I have the data pin going to the UPDI pin. Got a bunch of these little LED noodles, little nudes plugged into there as well. When I plug in the UPDI friend there, and now if you look in my Arduino session, when I hit upload using programmer, you're going to see it is going to very quickly make the connection, upload, send the code and boom. Now I have all of these four pins doing PWM stuff. Unplug the UPDI friend. Now I can battery power this. UPDI friend doesn't need to be plugged in anymore. UPDI friend and UPDI high voltage friend for programming your AT tiny chips. Yes indeed it is. And I even made it out in back with this thing. So we'll talk about that a little bit. Let me know if you if you put together any cool stuff on your AT tiny's using that. I think it's super slick, very cool. All right, we can start to settle down now. It looks like things are up and running. So next up, I'm just setting up a little demo here for our circuit Python parsec. And I'm also going to open up a little image I want to show of a pinout diagram. So let me let me try to not there we go. I'm going to try to not short out the project. Phew. All right, so let's grab these. But I'm also going to add an image file. Give me one second. Where are you? I think the question is, where did I put this? You know, I'll just go to the web page instead. Let's add a we'll add this Chrome capture on top. And data fruit. Let's go to feather RP 2040. And I'll go to the learn guide for it. And pinout page, pinout diagram, original, full size. There we go. Okay, so yeah, we'll start with it like this. Here we go. For the circuit Python parsec today, I want to talk about pinout diagrams and names of pins. So what I have here, you can see I've got a feather RP 2040 that's busily blinking away. Turn on a little light there. You can see it a little better. And off to the side here, you can see this is the pinout diagram from the learn guide for this board. I'll zoom in even a little bit more. And what you can see here is on the left side of the board here, we have pins like a zero, a one, a two, a three, and so on. So those are the board names and they are what silk screened onto the board. When we're using circuit Python, very often we will talk to the pins using those names. However, when you look at this pinout diagram, one of the really important things that you can also see next to these circuit Python names is the actual chip names. That's the column in yellow here, and it exists on both sides. So pins like a zero, a one, a two, a three are actually for the chip GPIO 26, 27, 28, 29. You can see sometimes these aren't in an order, sometimes they're mixed around, sometimes their names have nothing to do with the circuit Python name. You can, however, use either of those names in circuit Python. So if you look at my code here right now, I am going to go ahead and uncomment this section right here and save that. And I'm going to go ahead and also go to that board. Second. So what you can see here is that I am calling this variable LED pin by the name digital IO digital in out board a three. And then I have a little LED and a resistor plugged into ground and board a three. If I want to use the micro controller name instead, that is what we saw on this chart here a three uses GPIO 29. So I'm going to go ahead in my code and say led pin equals digital IO digital in out microcontroller dot pin dot GPIO 29. I'll hit save and the same thing is happening. So really circuit Python doesn't care it's using the same pin here just being called by two different names. Now one interesting thing you can do is if you go into the board itself in the REPL and import board, you can ask for the names of the pins on the board simply by saying dir board. And there you can see a zero one two three boot button D one D 10 all of these names that are familiar from the silkscreen. If I import microcontroller, I can now do a similar thing. We're going to say dir microcontroller dot pin. And now we're getting a list of the GPIO pin names that are the same as the chip names. Now one interesting thing about this is that these are very often the pin numbers that are used in Arduino. So if you're moving back and forth between Arduino and circuit Python, sometimes you might find it helps helpful or useful to know the name of the chip pin rather than worrying about the silkscreen pin because it's going to be very likely the same in Arduino as in circuit Python if you call it by this name. And so that is how you can use microcontroller pin names as well as board names in circuit Python. And that's your circuit Python parsec. Now as one other little bonus thing on here, I'll say if you're new to these pin diagrams, they can be a bit daunting because look at all this stuff on here. Really those pin numbers or names that are seen in gray are the ones you'll worry about the most in circuit Python, so you should call those pins. And then these yellow ones are those chip names, usually similar to what Arduino will have them defined as. The rest of these aren't really names that you're going to call directly in your code, they're a bit more informational. So for things like your SPI bus or your I square C bus or your UART bus or PWM pins, you'll have little channels or groups of these that sometimes you'll need to use in pairs or use in sections so that you don't have conflicts. So for example, you can call PWM A and PWM B pins and those are going to be listed here under the channel PWM 5A and B, 6A and B, 4A and B. When you want to call two of those, you'll call a pair and you will use the chip name or the GPIO or rather the silkscreen name, but this little information over here on the side just lets you know, hey, those share something, those are pins that you might need to use together so you don't run into other conflicts. So those two inner ones are the ones that you'll actually look at for calling the pins directly. But I thought that would be useful. You can also see things, here's an interesting case, back of the feather here we have a StemAQT port. Well, sometimes you want to sneakily use that instead of for I square C, which is sort of its intended use, just as yet another GPIO pin. Let's say you're running out of GPIO pins, it'll happen on some smaller boards sometimes and you just want to eke out one or two extras. Well, yeah, these are considered to be the I square C under StemAQT, but there are also chip pins, GPIO3 and GPIO2. So if you're in Arduino, you might call them that way, if you're in CircuitPython, you could still call them SCL-SDA, but you can get specific here and use GPIO2 and GPIO3 instead. So those are some interesting things, I think, from our little board diagrams that you'll find for all the all the boards. Okay, so moving on, I want to go to just this down shooter cam for a second, I'll get this out of the way, and I'll actually pull that power from the feather. And I talked about this last night on the show and tell, I actually can't remember if I actually plugged the thing in. I talked about using this little USB-C connector just to get power and ground to my battery charger that's on the PlayStation controller. So let me refocus here a little bit. You can see this is, if I press my start button here and open this up, you can see I'm connected to Bluetooth on my itsy bitsy. There is a charger under the battery, this is running under battery power right now, and that charger, since this is not an accessible port, I had to add a USB port up at the top here. This one here is really nice and small. I just have it essentially CA glued to the PCB. I also put some capton tape on there to keep it from shorting to the back of this in any weird case where this gets moved. And when that, I'll leave this open for a second, when that is plugged in, you'll see the charging board, that's the little Pro Trinket backpack charger there, you'll see that light up. And I actually have a tiny hole I drilled in this side of the controller, so when this is closed you can see that little red light in there, you're actually seeing it through the scene there, it's a little hard to get on camera. But that light will let you know that we're charging, and then I believe it goes either yellow or off, I think it just goes off when the battery is full, but if there is an LED you'd see it. And then I do have a second hole drilled there so that we can see when this is connected to Bluetooth, which it just went to sleep. It's one of the features of this is that it goes to sleep after, I think I have it at 30 seconds right now, but when that little Bluetooth connection is made then we'll see that through this little hole there as well. So I thought this was a good solution for this type of adding a little port, it is as small as it gets, you can have it protrude a bit so we don't bump into any of the case material with the USB-C cable you're using for charging. And the one test I need to do, and Lamar mentioned this last night, is I'm not sure if it uses, if it has the proper settings to get a power delivery charger to send five volts, 500 milliamps, that is I think the default that a lot of those will do in the absence of any resistors that tell it what to do. So this one is just dead simple, I don't believe there's any resistors on there to tell it anything, it's just letting five volts through and should be half an amp. So that'll be good for charging up your little battery in there. And that code is now up and committed into the learn guide repo. In fact, let me head on over there real quick, show you that. So if you, I don't have the guide up yet, I'm working on the guide, but if we go to, I'm not logged in, but that's okay, Adafruit. I'll just click here, should be a recent one, Learn System Guides. Recently PR'd, and if you search in here for PlayStation, PlayStation BLE, and I just updated this to add a timeout for checking for Wi-Fi. So one of the things you'll do with this code, if you want to be able to upload code to it without pulling it apart and plugging a USB cable in, you can use the over-the-air Wi-Fi feature that's possible on that ESP32. It will show up as ESP32.local if it's on your Wi-Fi network, and then you can upload code to it, which is really cool. Right here, you'll update your SSID and password for your local Wi-Fi. I had been doing this, and then at one point I realized I was not getting the controller connected, because my software, my code there, Arduino Sketch, was hanging when I was not near that Wi-Fi. I had forgotten to add any sort of, it was just sitting waiting, so it was waiting forever for Wi-Fi to connect. So I added a little timeout. I think it just takes three seconds now. It'll check for that Wi-Fi connection. If it makes it great, if it doesn't, it moves on, and you might need to go in and ticker with this or get closer to your access point. So anyway, that now is available. If you want to go check that out or get a head start on it, and I'll be working on the guide over the next couple days, so that you can make your own PlayStation controller that will connect up to your computer for some emulated games, or whatever, real games, not emulated. Okay, so next up, this is the new project. Was there something else I was going to show? I think that was it. So let's get on to the new project. The new project, I teased this a while ago when I first got this nutty controller in. You can see, if I come over here, this thing is as big as it looks. It's ginormous. And this is a X-Arcade tank stick. Oh, I just told Street Fighter to start again. I was hearing that music. I was like, what's going on? Let me get that to pause. Hey, there we go. So if you look over here, this is an old product. I got it for free from someone who's given it away. You may still be able to buy one somewhere for 200 bucks. But if you check out eBay, seems like they're running closer to 100 or less. You've got to count shipping in there. And really, what I'm showing here would work pretty much for any type of arcade style joystick. So if you want to build a fight stick that has one joystick and maybe six, eight buttons, if you want to gut something and make your own, if you want to take something like one of these, this is the original Nintendo joystick. It's actually a pretty nice little joystick, has a heavy metal plate, has some good weight to it, a little four-way joystick, a few buttons on there. The GP2040 firmware, which is something I've used before in a couple of projects, Robert Dale Smith has written a number of learn guides on Adafruit for making gamepad, controller, joystick type of projects using a Pico RP2040 or a KB2040. Pretty much any of the RP2040 based boards have a build for them. And what it allows you to do is take all of the many, many arcade button connectors, and we'll open this up and take a look at it, hook them up to your Pico or your other RP2040, and then use this excellent firmware that's super low latency. People actually play fight game tournaments with this thing. It's not going to slow you down at all, especially me. I'm not that fast or great a fight game player, but it is a really great firmware and ecosystem for configuration. You can also do things like add NeoPixels to it if you want to have colored buttons lighting up. You can add a little OLED screen. There's other extensions or add-ons like that. So what I wanted to do first is just show you it in action a little bit, and then we'll pull it apart and show you how I'm wiring this thing up, and then we can take a look at the software. So let's go over here, and I want to show you what, let's see, let's do, yeah, I'm going to switch cameras actually, get my camera switcher up and running, and you can see, since I don't get too bad a glare on there, I've got external monitors plugged in my laptop, and I'm running an open EMU emulator with Street Fighter Turbo, Street Fighter Turbo, I think it is on here, and I can't look at that screen because it's kind of broken, so let's let's try it. Okay, so the real test is doing things like spinning kicks and Hadokens, so those are, you know you've got, there we go, nope, I'm backwards, oh, I got killed. So to be able to pull that off with little thumb button things is really difficult, so any of your fight games these are great for, also stuff like Pac-Man, let me, in fact, let me see, do I have, let me see if I have, I think I have a Miss Pac-Man on here, yes, no, I don't think I have, what about an arcade, what's over there, Miss Pac-Man, let's see if that runs, and so in this emulator I'll have to do a controller setup, so the nice thing is we have sort of a couple of layers of pin setup, you can choose from different arcade joystick or controller standards like X input, oh it doesn't want to run that one, sorry, it'll show up as a Xbox 360 controller, which is a pretty common one for things to have drivers for, you can do, I think PS3, PS4, Switch, and a couple other more obscure ones, direct input which is an older standard that will tend to work when others won't, and yeah okay I won't, I won't impress you, but with my Pac-Man skills, but I'll tell you I tried playing some Miss Pac-Man with the, the PlayStation controller is terrible, you just, you can't, you always get hung up on what, this a real four-way joystick, works great, you can actually play stuff like Pac-Man, so I'll put this stuff away, and let's pull this guy apart, so I'm gonna first of all unplug it from USB, so what this originally had, this thing is old enough that it had a PS2, and not PlayStation 2, I mean like mouse keyboard PS2 jack, and a DB9 parallel port looking joystick port for your sound card kind of thing, these were plugged into the controller board that's on here, so I'm basically ditching the controller card on here, I've pulled this out so I just have a spot to put my own USB, and if you look here, let's switch cameras up, you can see there's actually some extra buttons on the back, there is a cable for pretty much just this trackpad, and I haven't tried this in a while, I think it shows up as a mouse, this trackball rather, so I'm not sure if you really be able to use that with this setup, I don't think that the GP2040 has a provision for trackballs, maybe that can be faked with one of the other encoder type of choices it has, but on the back here there was a little hole in a sort of grommet for this discarded connector here, I've just put a little micro USB extender there so I can plug a micro USB B, and there I might switch that to USB C, we'll see, this is unused by me, but it's a four-way selector switch, so that could be pretty easily set up to have your system switch over to switch mode versus direct input versus X input versus PlayStation, I think you might be able to use that for that, and then this thing is just covered in buttons, so what I'm going to do is let's flip it around like this and I do have a couple of wooden boxes here I can set it on so that I can rest it on the bench here because the joysticks get in the way otherwise, and I can move this over to the side, I may have to noodle with the camera a bit so that I'm not in the way of the stuff you want to see, oh there it goes now it's resting on the joystick so that's not what I want, okay so I've got there originally this was when I got it it was in its original box and the styrofoam had started to disintegrate and weld itself to this contact paper so I may just strip this contact paper off it's just MDF underneath and cut some new vinyl or contact paper for that I did add there were rubber feet connected to these that have disintegrated so I added four little temporary sticky bump bonds there and I don't want to lose these I'm going to stick these screws onto a magnet and so what I'm using for the microcontroller in this case is the Pico RP2040 and one of the reasons I was ready to revisit this project I had sort of done a little prototype a while ago but the reason I was ready to revisit it is that we now have a Lamor made a pie cowbell that has little screw terminal blocks on it for every GPIO pin for every pin on the thing which is perfect for this sort of thing because we have some wiring harnesses that we want to be able to connect to whichever pins we want you probably want to do some experimentation with that and not just solder them down but having them just kind of poking out of pin headers would probably lead to heartache pretty quickly and so get a slightly bigger screwdriver that's not a easy way to pick this out this is screwed down and then it's got such a tight fit with this probably cncd MDF that there's nowhere to get your fingers in it okay so it's just a little MDF there that I'm gonna like I said probably replace this or I might try I have some good 3m spray adhesive I might try to put that out in the sun so it's soft spray it flatten it iron it put a weight on it see if we can get it back in shape so here's what we have I think I'm gonna move my camera uh other view just so that the stuff I want you to see you can see so DJ Devon 3 says a nice mod would be maybe to put a molded uh lap shape for your thighs so you can set this on your lap that would be great yeah this thing is not lap super lap comfortable um okay so I'm gonna zoom in a bit here and what you can see this is the controller board that it comes with and there are more modern ones I think you could buy one of the things that they have on their site I think you can buy maybe for like a hundred dollars or something like that a um replacement for this original board that I believe would give it um a USB out um and that you could be done with this move on if you don't want to tinker and build it yourself but I did so uh rather than get their board since every you can see this is really hello hello uh those were the batteries I failed to check before the show sorry about that thank you for the warning um it was the receiver had lost battery I think this one's still just still got three bars of battery that's good that's full uh sorry about that okay so let's go back to that view over there okay so um the what I was saying is on the uh I don't know how far back it went but this this is the controller board that this comes with you can get a replacement that's more modern um I think they're like a hundred or hundred and thirty dollars or something like that but we're going to use the pico and the little um screw terminal breakout instead and what I was saying is all of this is really nicely put together all of the buttons uh joystick buttons etc all the ground runs they all terminate in these five pin jst uh xh which we just happened to have in the Adafruit store a jst xh kit and so rather than me trying to mess around with uh this type of arcade wire which we have these are great it'll plug right into each switch a little spade terminal connector and then we could trim these ends strip them and put them into the terminal but uh I wasn't really looking forward to that much wiring and instead I realized hey since they've already got for example this is joystick one and I just figured this out by tracing it this joystick one jst xh cable has ground up down left right and that's that exists on another one here for the other joystick clumps of four buttons are arranged that way uh they all have ground that's why they're five they have ground and then four buttons so uh what I was able to do is take our little kit here and I can zoom in for a second so you can get a little closer uh take our kit here that is the wiring harness from the arcade stick this is in our kit a five pin xh of the other gender there uh meant to solder down onto a board but what you can do is take our little uh multi-color jumper wire kits that we have here uh I put heat shrink tubing on so they wouldn't touch each other but you can basically plug these in and it makes a nice solid connection in there click click click if you're feeling more permanent about it you could also hit that with some solder but what I've made are these little uh adapters here that you can see my heat shrink on there that we can just plug their neat little bundles into and then go ahead and screw those into the pico breakout and in some of these cases this follows the sort of default wiring for example this one here is uh I think that one right though I did switch two of them I think I got that wrong actually um but ground up down left right are pretty much in a row in what's being expected inside of the GP 2040 software uh and then you can update that in software after the fact or like I was saying before whatever emulator you're playing with or software you're playing with will usually have a config where you can say hey I'm just going to show you what my up down my left and my right are my button a b x y and so on so that gives us this nice pretty modular solution to wiring here we get this all nice and wired up I've got four buttons joystick and then start select and two of the shoulder buttons connected up right now uh here is my little zoom out a bit so you can see this here is my little uh usb breakout runs right there so I plug this in and then I'll be able to set this down over here I might screw it into where I might remove their board and just screw it in there they have a little block of mdf that they've just screwed it directly to so that works for me um there's even I think one or two leds on here that we could connect to and then probably uh to use this as like a two player setup I'll just build two of these so if I'm playing on a computer we're just going to have two usb plugged in just like there's two controllers or if you're doing it on a switch or something like that uh rather than trying to get all this wiring into a single pico and do some sort of split two player thing I think it might make more sense to do the two of them side by side so that's the that's the thinking behind that and that's the easy solution for getting this thing wired up nice and nice and easy last thing I think that remains is to figure out if there's something to do with this guy right here so this is I think an entirely self-contained um ps2 and usb track ball based on it having its own little wiring bundle here that has a y adapter built into this single wire that goes out to ps2 keyboard mouse or mouse and uh usb I think that just shows up as usb mouse so that one not sure yet I don't actually have a lot of track ball games I'm dying to play all those centipede might be fun or some I don't know is tempest no that's a knob who knows but anyway everything else here is pretty much just switches uh one other thing I noted is that they in their wiring in many if not all cases their wires have um little taps to add on other switches or to run the thing off to something else so potentially that could be another way to to wire it but I think this one works well just because we have easy access to these jst xh connectors they're all five pin they're all pretty much the same thing even the led here is just using a pair of them for for that I'm not sure what the other one goes to I haven't traced it out yet and I've left things they've zip tied everything together nice and neat and I've left it like that just so I don't end up with a new mess but I may clip those if I need to search something down that's that's hard to find so that's that that is up and running right now we can pop this bottom back on here I probably don't even really need to screw that down and you can see there's more of this this contact paper coming off in a couple places in some places it looks pretty good uh the top looks good still I think that was a different sort of vinyl or plastic application there uh I believe there are also modifications you can do for um your joysticks if you want to turn them into like a gated four way I think they're set up as eight way right now so you can press both buttons down when you're in the side I think there's a modification you can do on these that'll turn them into a a four way for some games where that matters that's the that's the guy right there so I'm not saying you need to run out and get one of these you may have weird old joysticks around this will pretty much apply to any type of big arcade control panel could work if you have an arcade cabinet and you want to get the buttons running up and running in some sort of a a main emulation situation this little pico and the GP2040 software may be the answer for you uh and then what I'll do is if I can find the there was a spare pico here somewhere did I put it over there and they put it over there I was going to plug in rather than lug this thing over there although do have a long cable for it uh I'll see where I put that where'd you go there's a chance that I brought that into my other office all right well we'll just run this extension then I've got a really long usb cable on here as it is um yeah just checking the uh discord over there yeah we have sound thank you everyone who let me know about that um yeah racing games with the trackball that'd be wild and uh yeah c grover that's c grover says it's a pretty nice uh a pretty non-destructive and reversible mod and yeah that's one of the nice things about this is being able to you know you could really just plug those eight cable um jst plugs right back in uh put the old connector there and it's like no one was ever there right um so that's nice I didn't want to have to go cutting stuff and making this a pain to get back to uh to stock okay so I'm going to plug the I can get my hub to agree I'm going to plug in that pico into this computer and let's take a look at how this is set up okay so that's up and running now um if we go back to my browser uh what I'll do first actually is go to controller tester gamepad tester here um let's see if it's awake I've got to actually plug it into the back of the joystick there okay so now whoops now that should show up uh as a gamepad so joystick up down left right uh you can see that is showing up as axis nine uh the other buttons I have should be these abxy which are usually somewhere in the button zero one two three vicinity um that's my start button that's one of my shoulder buttons there shoulder button shoulder button so um that gives me an idea of what's uh what's working right now now we have a couple of ways to get into uh configuration on this so let me jump back here for a second this is gp2040 ce that's what i'm running on here and um if you go to downloads you can see these are all the boards you can put this on uh I used I think a kb2040 for my switch project uh I don't think I did it on a pico but maybe I did but here we have it on a pico um there are a few other boards that are kind of purpose built for this for people who are making gaming joysticks but these are all we've got a spark fun board on here a wave share a kb2040 and then a couple of picos I'm actually not sure what it can do with the pico w if that's a bluetooth thing or a wi-fi thing I'll have to look into that one uh and then web configurator is super cool so when you put this on it's just a uf2 file so you just put bootloader mode drag it onto the drive that shows up just as if you were putting circuit python on and the things up and running then you need to configure it so one thing is plug in some some wires for your switches the other thing is you can start the board if you see here it says there's a built-in web base configure application you can start by holding s2 that's that start button is what I have that as uh while you're plugging it in so I'm going to come over here unplug it from usb hold that start button while I plug it in and release uh and now I can go to this web configurator here oh that didn't go anywhere did it let's try it again oh I think that's not the button hold on I think it's this one here it's selected not start all right no I had this working so not you I think it's you nothing I'll give it a moment but I may have the wrong I also want to check that that button is working in the uh gamepad tester or is it this one could be that one okay let's try that one done done I don't know if I yeah I think I've brought that other one elsewhere do I have a spare pico all right why won't this work I can't think of a good reason let's try all the buttons again you're plugged into there okay you know what I'm gonna flip it open again and just make sure that I have something connected to that pin so it's um the gp2040 pin naming is calling it pin s2 my uh connection I think is to the gp17 this is the little chart here that's on their site for grabbing the gp2040 pin name and how it correlates to whichever microcontroller you're using so they have one of those pinouts for all the different boards okay so here french pin still connected oh I didn't bend that up too much the only other thing I'm gonna maybe suspect is the um does it not like having this enormous run of usb cable when it's trying to do this I can try it on the little laptop that's sitting there too all right let's try it over there I'll switch the camera up I'm gonna plug this in with the shorter this is a usb extender I've got here okay so turn this so we can both see it oh I went to the .info site that is just documentation let's go web configurator no I have broken the web configurator okay sorry I won't be able to show you that today I don't know what I did um it worked right before the show but I have clearly done something bad and yeah I really think that's the button that should be okay so let's try one last thing which is I'm gonna pull my rp2040 out of here again since it's on the screw terminal pico bell it's pretty easy to grab that and I'll try plugging it in over here so let's go to this view all right uh so first of all I'll just plug it in here and see if we get it to show up in gamepad tester and I'll need a jumper wire just to convince it so let's see it go from ground to one of these okay so there it's showing up and now I will power it down I'm gonna connect to gp17 while I power it back up no absolutely won't work all right I've broken something sorry about that I put a new version of um gp2040 on this right before the show might not have been a good idea I don't know if it has some known issue that I'm running into here um but live and learn uh configuration in general is um if you look at the documentation here it's all this stuff of picking your keyboard mapping telling it if you're using leds for neopixels adding macros and so on and that's uh that's what we can do in there to get it ready for whatever output we want for the game system we're using all right well I think I'll cut my losses there sorry about that I will be playing with this more and setting that up as a usable joystick which as a reminder is our coupon code for today so if you want to get 10 off in the store maybe go pick up a uh one of these one of these pie cowbells and uh we've got I think the um the one with pre soldered sockets here is not in stock right now uh you can hit notify me if you want to know but if you click actually on that one go to without header uh this one you can either solder your own header uh onto or you can solder the um rp2040 directly to that which is also fine um that one will they'll work it's just a regular pico if you want to go completely solderless wait for that uh socket headard version to come in and then get a pico h or pico wh um and those will uh just plug and play and then I showed here this is the jst xh now actually I will say I'm using this kit here which you can kind of roll your own cables like I showed you however I'm going to get I don't have any of these but I'm going to get some of these five pin cable pairs uh just to see those should work pretty well and that would be again a even simpler solution is just to plug into that second half there you'll have a bunch of extra halves but if you're just setting up one joystick you might just need three of these and be done with it so that'll be a nice easy way to get those set up and then play some arcade games all right that is going to do it for today thanks everyone for stopping by freighter for your industries I'm john park this has been john park's workshop one hour later edition uh and I think we have uh deep dive with scott coming up tomorrow and then we'll be back next week with more shows so please tune in and go to the discord to find out more uh thanks everyone see you next time