 A correctly assembled functioning cancealer is essential to having properly sealed products. Here's an assembled cancealer. In this module, we're using an Ive's Way cancealer for demonstration purposes. It's suggested that you have your cancealer handy and assemble it as we work through this module. Most cancealers are assembled in a similar manner, but you may want to refer to your cancealer instructions as you work. Before we begin assembly, it's important to examine each of the parts to make certain all are there and that they're in good working order. Now, let's identify the parts. Here is the head, the crank and screw, and the frame. Next we have the seaming roller washer and the two seaming rollers. For the next four items, only one is shown, but there are two of each. The seaming roller spring, the seaming roller screw, the three hole nut, and the thumb screw. The remaining parts here are the lever, the lever pivot, and the three inch pin. Although there is only one shown here, there are two sizes of chuck that come with the sealer. One for one pound cans, the other for half pound cans. Then there's the chuck screw, the turntable, the turntable spacers, the turntable spring, the turntable extension, and the two gauge wires. With the parts identified, we can begin assembling the cancealer. First, situate the frame by clamping it securely to a table. Use a cloth or a piece of cardboard to protect the table surface. Slip the three inch pin into the hole in the clamp screw and tighten until it is secure on the table. Next, slide the head on the upright pipe of the frame. Notice that there is a slot in both the head and the post of the frame. These two slots will be lined up in the next step. Align the slot in the head with the slot in the post of the frame. Insert the lever into the slot with the writing facing forward toward the body of the cancealer. The lever should slide into the slot until the holes in the lever and the head are aligned. Insert the lever pivot in the aligned holes from the back with the ridge side of the pivot out. Gently tap in the lever pivot with a hammer. The lever pivot should be flush with the head. Now, insert the gear end of the crank into the head, adjusting to allow the teeth of the cogs to mesh. Use your fingers to tighten the screw. Turn the crank handle until the zero shows in the window on the top of the head. Loosen the crank screw and reposition the crank handle so it hangs straight down. Use a quarter to tighten the crank screw. Do not use a screwdriver as a screwdriver may damage the screw. In preparation for assembling your cancealer, you'll need to determine the size of cans that are to be sealed. The can size determines the chuck size, position of the seaming rollers, number and size of spacers used with the turntable spring and turntable, and whether you'll need to use the turntable extension. A tall one pound 301 by 408 can needs a number 301 chuck, the number two hole in the three hole nut, two three sixteenths inch spacers and a turntable spring. The flat one half pound 307 by 200.25 cans need a number 307 chuck, the number two hole in the three hole nut, two three sixteenths inch spacers, one five sixteenths inch spacer, the turntable extension and a turntable spring. The size is printed on the corresponding chuck. Gather together the parts needed for the can size you've chosen. The right side will be assembled first. Insert the three hole nut into the channel labeled first on the right hand side of the head. Numbers should be visible on the top of the nut. The one on the nut should be toward the center of the head. The left side is assembled by inserting the three hole nut into the channel labeled second on the left side of the head. Again, numbers should be visible on top of the nut and the one should be toward the center of the head. Slide the three hole nuts back and forth in their tracks until they move freely. A new sealer may have casting marks that obstruct the free movement of the nuts within the tracks. File these off if necessary. There are two seaming rollers. The first seaming roller is on the right side of the sealer and is for curling the lid and can body edges together. This roller has a deeper, more rounded profile. The second seaming roller is on the left side of the sealer and is for flattening the seam once the lid and can body edges are curled together. This roller has a shallower, flatter profile. The first roller assembly is on the right side of the sealer head. Make the first roller assembly by putting the spring into the roller screw. Add the seaming roller and then the washer as shown. The largest part of the seaming roller is next to the washer. Attach the first roller assembly by loosely threading the entire assembly that we put together in the last step into the three hole nut from the bottom. Both the one pound and the half pound cans use the number two hole. Thread in the thumb screw loosely. Rotate the crank until one appears in the indicating window. Now we'll assemble the second seam roller on the left side of the head. Build the second seam roller assembly by putting the spring onto the roller screw, add the seaming roller and then the washer. Like the first seaming roller, the largest part of the seaming roller is next to the washer. Rotate the crank until a two appears in the window. Install the second seaming roller on the left side the same way we installed the first roller assembly. The assembly is threaded into the number two hole, which is the center one. After both seam rollers have been assembled, rotate the crank until the zero appears in the indicating window. Select the appropriate chuck for the can size used, number 301 for the tall cans and number 307 for the short can. The size is printed on the chuck. With the concave face of the chuck facing down, insert the chuck screw through the center of the chuck. Thread the screw into the head by hand. Do not use a screwdriver as a screwdriver may damage the chuck screw. Make sure the thumb screw and the three hole nut are backed off or the chuck will not go on because it will hang up on the rollers. Tighten the chuck by inserting the three inch pin into one of the small holes in the chuck. Turn the crank clockwise until the three inch pin is pressed against the frame of the can sealer and the chuck is tight. Remove the pin. To remove the chuck, follow the same directions except turn the crank counterclockwise. In short, clockwise tightens the chuck and counterclockwise loosens the chuck. It is essential to check the seam rollers each time the can sealer is used to maintain the tightness necessary for a good seal. The first and second gauge wires are used to set the distance between the rollers and the chucks. The settings control the shape and tightness of the can seams. The tightness determines the quality of the seal. Since food must never be stored in cans that have incorrectly formed seams, an improperly adjusted seam may compromise the safety of the preserved food. There are two different gauges of wires. The thicker one is to be used in adjusting the first roller and the finer one in adjusting the second roller. If you do not have gauge wires to check the seam, obtain them from the manufacturer or from dealers that sell canned sealers. There is no other way to accurately check the seams without them. To adjust the first seam roller on the right side of the sealer head, unscrew the thumb screw and slide the first seaming roller and the three hole nut to the outside, hard against the frame. Turn the crank clockwise until the one appears in the indicating window. At this point, the crank handle should hang straight down. Finger tighten the first seaming roller screw. This removes slack yet allows the roller assembly to slide with the rotation of the thumb screw. Check the gauge of the first roller. Make sure that the one is showing in the window and insert the thicker gauge wire between the chuck and the groove in the first seaming roller. Tighten the thumb screw while lightly pulling the gauge wire until drag is felt. Leave the wire in place and tighten the thumb screw an additional quarter turn. Set the first roller by locking the seaming roller screw in place. Insert the three inch pin through the hole in the roller and tighten. Lightly pull again on the gauge wire. It must not move easily. If it moves, loosen the seaming roller screw slightly and tighten the thumb screw slightly. Repeat until the gauge wire cannot be moved easily. Remove the gauge wire by turning the crank counterclockwise. The second seam roller on the left side of the sealer head is adjusted in the same manner as the first seaming roller. Start by turning the crank clockwise until the two appears in the window. You will crank past the C before the two appears. Move the second seaming roller to the outside by sliding the three hole nut until it stops hard against the frame. Finger tighten the second seaming roller assembly just like the first seaming roller. This removes the slack and allows the roller assembly to slide with the rotation of the thumb screw. Insert the thin wire gauge between the chuck and the groove in the second seaming roller. Tighten the thumb screw while lightly pulling the gauge wire until drag is felt. Leave the wire in place and then turn the thumb screw an additional quarter turn. Set the second seaming roller by locking the screw in place. Tighten it by placing the three inch pin through the hole in the roller assembly. Again, lightly pull on the gauge wire to make sure it doesn't move easily. If it moves, loosen the seaming roller screw slightly and tighten the thumb screw slightly. Repeat these steps until the gauge wire cannot be moved easily. Remove the gauge wire by turning the crank counterclockwise. The next step is to situate the turntable. Select the required spacers and extension for your can size. For the tall can you'll need two three sixteenths inch turntable spacers and the turntable spring. For the flat can you'll need two three sixteenths inch turntable spacers, the five sixteenths inch turntable spacer, the turntable extension, and the turntable spring. Place the spacers, then the spring on the shaft of the turntable. If you're using the flat can, add the turntable extension. Situate the turntable by lifting the can sealer lever to the up position. Insert the turntable into the frame. Make a test seam before packing cans with product. Begin with the zero in the indicating window and the crank handle hanging straight down. Raise the lever to the full up locked position. Center a can on the turntable and then center a lid, gasket down, on top of the can. With the can and lid centered on the turntable, slowly lower the lever, moving the can as necessary to keep it centered. Press the lever down to the locked position. This will require some force as you compress the turntable spring. To form the seam, turn the crank clockwise through the entire cycle. You will start and end with the zero in the window. The window will display zero, one, C, two, and then back to zero as you complete the can seaming operation. The crank should turn hard toward the end of each operation as the seam is flattened against the can body. Crank slowly and steadily through the process. When the zero is displayed in the window, lift the lever and remove the sealed can. It may require a little bit of force to remove it from the chuck. This is normal. Seal at least one empty can before filling and sealing cans for processing in a pressure canner. Evaluate the sample can seam for visual seam defects, such as droop, V, sharp seam, or cut seam. For specific information on can seals, refer to the publication Visual Inspection of Can Seams available from your extension office or by download at www.uaf.edu forward slash c-e-s.