 Hello everybody and welcome to another product review video. And today we are going to be talking about Green Stuff World's Pure Metal Pigment. So I got the full set here, or I've got these gold colors I should say. So we've got bronze, copper, and then antique gold and gold. Now what's important to understand about these is they are exactly what they say on the bottle. That is, they are a pure metal pigment. So they are actually ground metal pigments. They aren't actually ground bronze or gold, obviously. That would be a bit cost ineffective, but they are metallics, so it's not mica, and then that have been colorized accordingly. So if we open up the jar here, you don't see paint. Instead, you just see pigment. Initial impressions when I got it was it is very finely ground, which is really important. So what you need to understand about most metallic paints is that metallic paints often use mica to simulate metal. That's why they don't actually look like they have a metal shine because they are not metal. High quality metal paints like Vallejo Metal Color and some of the other enamel and things like that on the market use aluminum powder, which is very, very, very finely ground, which makes it okay for your brush or airbrush. The advantage to having the pure metal in pigment form is you can then mix it how you want. So when it comes out of the pot, it looks effectively like this. So here are our four pigments, gold over here, antique gold right here, copper, and then bronze. So you can see that is literally just a very finely ground pigment. So the first question is can you use it like traditional pigment, that is to say just getting it on a brush and pushing it around and getting a slight metallic sheen? And the answer is yes, you certainly can. Nothing stops you from simply grabbing it. We'll take a little bit of the gold here and you can see if I just take the edge of the space and push it around that I will give a slight metallic sheen to the area, but it's quite faint. So yes, you can still apply it like regular pigment, though I will openly admit I would have very little need often to put a metallic sheen on something in this method, but if you're looking for if you want metal dust or something like that it can be a way to go. What you actually are probably going to use it for is to make paint. So the question then becomes okay how do we turn this into paint? Well having an pigment form is again actually quite an advantage because you can mix it with anything you want. So in their tutorials they often use this green stuff world master medium, which is fine. This is effectively just acrylic medium. Nothing more. Paint consists of three elements, acrylic paint consists of three elements. Pigment, a bonding agent, and a solvent. Pigment is pigment. We've got it right here. The acrylic medium is our bonding agent, right? So that's what is making the thing stick, stick together, hold the pigment in place. It forms a chemical lattice work that holds pigments in place. And then solvent, which for our case is water. That's why acrylic paint is generally non-toxic because it's just using water as a solvent as opposed to something much more toxic like enamels or oil paints do. I tested with this. It's fine. It certainly does the job. However, I found that actually using something like gloss varnish gives a better result. You can put anything that is effectively going to activate the pigment into this to mix it. So chances are you have stuff in your house that's going to work just fine for this. If you have any kind of acrylic thinner or medium or thinner medium or varnish, you can do it with the metal. Now word of caution I would recommend against using AK interactive ultra matte varnish. I did see what would happen if you put those together. The answer is you do get a very matte metal. So if you're trying to have dull gold, I suppose it would work, but I usually like my gold shiny. By using gloss varnish combined with a very small pigment, you actually get a really nice, really, really high metal shine. However, you can also use things like alcohol. So isopropyl alcohol will also work. So here I have my little bottle of isopropyl alcohol that I've decanted out into a small bottle. You can use that as well to activate it. But my favorite thing I found to mix it. So I went and tested with a bunch of mediums and my favorite one I used is actually this right here. So this is still water based. This is the gloss varnish metal varnish that goes with the Vallejo metal color set. It's specifically meant to preserve the shine of the Vallejo metal color paints. And what impressed me about this is you really got a really high shine out of it. Everything was smooth. It went on well. Because you're using metal varnish, which is this is really tough stuff, as your medium effectively, the final product is really tough. I was able to put, you know, I put oil paint straight over it. No issues, didn't pick up any paint. I was able to put all sorts of, you know, washes. I played around with a bunch of different stuff. We're going to have a video talking about using these paints coming out separately. This is just a review of the product and its quality. So this will be a two-part video. We'll do a follow-up video on exactly how to use or exactly how all the different fun ways we can use them. So you see we just put a couple drops in there. Let's do that for every one of them. And you'll notice how it starts looking like metallic paint right away. I'm dropping it up from higher than I need to be, so just so I can kick pigment everywhere. Technically I should be doing this down here, but I didn't want to block you in the camera, which has created these nice splatter effects. Put it lower and you won't have that problem. Okay, and we're going to get ourselves a nice big brush. I found you want to minimize the amount of water. So, you know, have your brush a little moist, and then other than that, you know, make sure it's wiped off. Water will, the solvent will actually break it down somewhat quickly. I mean, you want a little water, but not much. And then you just mix it around and make sure all that pigment's absorbed. Now, your mixing ratio. I don't have any little tiny measuring instruments. I ordered some, but they're not here yet, because that's the way the world works now. And so what I use is a little scoop, and then I just do a couple drops at a time until I have it right. What I found is my tiny little scoop, like the little amount you saw in there, about four or five drops of pigment will generally get it going and turn it into metal. If you still see you have large amounts of pigment sitting on the side of the your mixing area, then you need to add more medium, more varnish, more whatever you're using. Do make sure you mix them thoroughly. And if you get your ratio too thin, which you'll know when you put it on something, because if it doesn't cover with perfect opacity, then you know you haven't mixed enough pigment in, and you can always just add another little dollop of pigment. No big deal. Okay? All right, so you can see how easy it is to just get these mixed up and going. We just pull down from the side, get everything nice and in there, and we're good to go. The other thing I will say about mixing is it takes less than you think. As the pigment integrates with the varnish or the medium or the alcohol, it will soak up more than you think it will when you initially put it in, because it'll look like when you put in the initial drops that it's really not doing much. And so you want to make sure that you're, you know, use less to start and then just add another drop here or there. That's the way that I've found is the best. Like I, rather than trying to go the other way around, like I think I might have put a few too many drops in these, you can see how the gold is sort of breaking up a little. That tells me I have too much varnish and not enough pigment. So if that happens, no big deal. Easy fix. You can see how rich red, look how lustry that copper is and that bronze. They're really, really lustrous, shiny, beautiful paints. And because you're mixing them directly with the medium, they stay, they stay so shiny when they're put on the model. So let's mix a little more gold in there. Word of warning, on playing with these pigments, they are just pigment and they will be messy if you let them. Like you can see this like gold stain on my desk over here where I had accidentally let some of the pigment fall down. So you know, just be wary. Don't sneeze or cough around your pigments. Boy, are you going to have a heck of a mess then. So get out the little bit you need and then immediately put the cap back on, seal it. You don't want metal pigment all over your work desk. It is going to look like a glitter bomb went off on your desk if you do. Okay, so that's mixing them, getting them going. So now let's do some painting with them, shall we? So we're going to start out. I'm just going to show you how they look on a white piece of paper, just so you get kind of a baseline. So here's your antique gold. Really nice, rich, lustrous color. Okay. I really like the color of the antique gold. Let's look at some normal gold. I still didn't put any pigment in there. So you can see how well that shines. Let's try our bronze. Nice brown tone. And then finally our copper. All right, so that's on paper just so you get an idea of the four tones. Now we're going to pause. I'm going to reset a little bit and we're going to show it on a model. All right, so we're back. We've got our old friend Larry the Ogre here and he's going to help us display how this works. So let's start out with a little bit of the copper. Let's give him a little copper gut plate. You can see that I went ahead and mixed up a little more just so I had plenty to work with. Probably too much. It's easy to make too much of this, I will say, but it's fine because you're working with pure pigment. My god, do you get a lot out of one of those pots? Value-wise, they're great. So you can see it just goes right on nice and smooth and we get that beautiful copper shine. Like that has such a luster to it and it will that's more or less how it's going to dry. Again, part of that is because we've mixed it with that metal varnish. So the gloss varnish is helping really keep everything together and reflecting light. Normally metallic pigments are so large that oftentimes the relative matte or shine of the layer underneath will affect the shininess of the level on top. However, in this case, because we've our binder medium here is also gloss varnish and is quite thick and the pigments are ground small enough, it's much less of a challenge. So we tend to have a high opacity and the shine that you have at the beginning tends to be the shine that remains. There you can see that nice difference of the that's the regular gold versus the copper. So real nice color there. Let's go ahead and give him some shiny pants. All right, actually we'll give him some shiny boots. So here we've got the antique gold, which is actually I think my favorite color from this line. So with our, you can see how nice that applies there. Nice. We'll give him the whole boot. We'll just do the whole boot and shiny gold. It's very much reminds me the look of the antique gold. Very much reminds me of painting with or using gold flake if you've ever used gold flake, but it has that level of just like, I mean you can look at that. It looks so reflective, like look how that catches the light. It's so lustrous. It's fantastic. That's what has absolutely blown me away about these. I'm loving just the shine. You know, like you put that next to my ring, right? Look at how close that is. That's fantastic. Okay and then finally bronze and as by the way you can see that black, that boot was black and we covered over it no problem. Like look at that opacity on a single layer of paint. It's fantastic. Finally let's do some bronze. Very little visible pigment either because again the gloss varnish helps to cover that over but also it's just very finely ground so it's really kind of the best of both worlds. We'll turn his other boot here antique or sorry bronze. This is my only complaint in the set right here which is the bronze. It's a really good color. It's a really nice color. I like it a lot okay but it's not bronze so there's your there's your bronze. You can see kind of all four colors together there. My challenge with the bronze is it's really just like a slightly more brown gold. It doesn't really have a full bronze tint to it. Like even looking at it in the pot you can see it doesn't really have that deep brown I would normally expect out of bronze. It's a little more gold. It's the only one in the set I feel is kind of a miss on replicating its actual color. Like the copper to me feels nice. It's got a nice red shine. The basic gold is cold but you know pretty much cold gold. The antique gold is really nice, really rich, really lustrous. Like this a custodian's army or something in this would be just fire right but the bronze is just kind of it's nice. It's a slightly more brown gold. Like you can see that's now dried completely and look it's still got that same shine right that wasn't just wet paint that all this is reflecting. And you notice I just painted over everything. I didn't under paint anything first. Not all these colors necessarily worked for this. It's just really really effective stuff because it's mixed with the varnish because you've got such a rich pigment load in there because we're not doing any water or other suspensions to try to get this to work. It's just the opacity is off the charts. So there you go. That's the green stuff world pure pigments. I absolutely overall give them an A. The only reason they don't get an A plus is because it is kind of tricky to mix your ratios. You're gonna have some challenges and also because I now have gold pigment on my hands. It's very easy for this product to get very messy. So do use it on like cutting mat or something and then you'll have to wipe down your space afterward. When it's very lightweight hyperground pigment like that it's just easy for it to get everywhere. You don't want it getting on your other models or in areas where it doesn't belong. So apply it carefully and then wipe down your space. That way you're not transferring pigment from like you can see on my hand there you know over to Larry. So you wouldn't want him to accidentally have some gold shine or something. There you go. You can see that how I'm in wiping my hand across and I gave him a little shine. Although honestly you know what Larry? You are gold. You deserve it buddy. You've been here for so long. All right so there you go. Green stuff world pure pigment absolute A. You can get the I ordered mine from Michigan Toy Soldier here in the United States. Great store that got them to me. You can also get them obviously directly from Green Stuff World as well as many other retailers. So that's where you order them from. The actual amount is 30 mils of pigment in the container. I don't even want to rationalize how much paint you'd actually make out of that. A lifetime of paint is the short answer. So even though their price is slightly higher depending on where you are in the world they're worth it because you're going to have you buy one of those things you could do 70 armies of custodias just because of how much you can make. I mean this was made out of you know one scoop of this. That's quite a lot and there are many of those tiny scoops in there. So there you go. That's Green Stuff World pure pigment. Oh one final note yes they do work but for both brush and airbrush you do need to thin them a little more through the airbrush. I do use my standard thinner flow-improver ratio through the airbrush but you can you want to pre-mix do not put the pigment into the cup pre-mix it into something else put in your thinner and then thin and mix you know in there and then put that whole mess into the cup. This is the only time I don't mix in the cup directly because you do not want these pigment chunks unmixed getting into the airbrush cup. That is a nightmare but yes it will work on both brush and airbrush. It will take washes and stuff normally. Come back for another video when we do a hobby cheating video on these and I show you other interesting ways to use these, mix these, glaze over these. We really get into them and have a good time with it. So there you go. Hope that product review was helpful. I think they're definitely worth a pickup if you are obsessed with true metallics like I am. If you liked this give it a like subscribe for more hobby cheating in the future sorry for more product reviews and hobby cheating and everything in the future. But as always I very much appreciate you watching this one and we'll see you next time.