 CHAPTER X The Day is spent in obtaining the time and spreading our rations which we find are badly injured. The flour has been wet and dried so many times that it is all musty and full of hard lumps. We make a sieve of mosquito netting and run our flour through it, losing more than two hundred pounds by the process. Our losses, by the wrecking of the no-name, and by various mishaps since, together with the amount thrown away today, leave us little more than two months' supplies, and to make them last thus long we must be fortunate enough to lose no more. We drag our boats on shore and turn them over to re-cock and pitch them, and Sumner is engaged in repairing barometers. While we are here for day or two, resting, we propose to put everything in the best shape for a vigorous campaign. July 19. Bradley and I start this morning to climb the left wall below the junction. The way we have selected is up a gulch. Climbing for an hour over and among the rocks, we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, and our way cut off. We clamour around to the left for half an hour, until we find that we cannot go up in that direction. Then we try the rocks around to the right, and discover a narrow shelf nearly half a mile long. In some places this is so wide that we pass along with ease. In others it is so narrow and sloping that we are compelled to lie down and crawl. We can look over the edge of the shelf down eight hundred feet and see the river rolling and plunging among the rocks. Looking up five hundred feet to the brink of the cliff, it seems to blend with the sky. We continue along until we come to a point where the wall is again broken down. Up we climb. On the right there is a narrow, mural point of rocks, extending toward the river, two hundred or three hundred feet high, and six hundred or eight hundred feet long. We come back to where this sets in, and find it cut off from the main wall by a great crevice. Into this we pass, and now a long narrow rock is between us and the river. The rock itself is split longitudinally and transversely, and the rains on the surface above have run down through the crevices and gathered into channels below and then run off into the river. The crevices are usually narrow above and, by erosion of the streams, wider below, forming a network of caves, each cave having a narrow, winding skylight up through the rocks. We wander among these corridors for an hour or two, but find no place where the rocks are broken down so that we can climb up. At last we determine to attempt a passage by a crevice, and select one which we think is wide enough to admit of the passages of our bodies, and yet narrow enough to climb out by pressing our hands and feet against the walls. So we climb as men would out of a well. Bradley climbs first. I hand him the barometer, then climb over his head, and he hands me the barometer. So we pass each other alternately until we emerge from the fissure, out on the summit of the rock. And what a world of grandeur spread before us! Below is the canyon through which the Colorado runs. We can trace its course for miles, and at points catch climpses of the river. From the northwest comes the green and a narrow winding gorge. From the northeast comes the grand, through a canyon that seems bottomless from where we stand. Away to the west are lines of cliffs and ledges of rock. Not such ledges as the reader may have seen where the quarryman splits his blocks, but ledges from which the gods might quarry mountains that rolled out on the plain below would stand a lofty range, and not such cliffs as the reader may have seen where the swallow builds its nest, but cliffs where the soaring eagle is lost to view ere he reaches the summit. Between us and the distant cliffs are the strangely carved and pinnacled rocks of the two-pin, wuneer, two-weep. On the summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock-forms that we do not understand. Away to the east a group of eruptive mountains are seen, the Sierra La Salle, which we first saw two days ago through the canyon of the Grand. Their slopes are covered with pines, and deep gulches are flanked with great crags, and snow-fields are seen near the summits. So the mountains are in uniform, green, gray, and silver. Wherever we look there is but a wilderness of rocks. Deep gorges where the rivers are lost below cliffs and towers and pinnacles, and ten thousand strangely carved forms in every direction, and beyond them mountains blending with the clouds. Now we return to camp. While eating supper we very naturally speak of better fare, as musty bread and spoiled bacon are not palatable. Soon I see Hawkins down by the boat, taking up the sextant, rather estranged proceeding for him, and I question him concerning it. He replies that he is trying to find the latitude and longitude of the nearest pie. July 20. This morning Captain Powell and I go out to climb the west wall of the canyon, for the purposes of examining the strange rocks seen yesterday from the other side. Two hours bring us to the top, at a point between the green and Colorado overlooking the junction of the rivers. A long neck of rock extends towards the mouth of the Grand. Out on this we walk, crossing a great number of deep crevices. Usually the smooth rock slopes down to the fissure on either side. Sometimes it is an interesting question to us whether the slope is not so steep that we cannot stand on it. Sometimes starting down we are compelled to go on, and when we measure the crevice with our eye from above we are not always sure that it is not too wide for a jump. Probably the slopes would not be difficult if there was not a fissure at the lower end, nor would the fissures cause fear if they were but a few feet deep. It is curious how a little obstacle becomes a great obstruction when a misstep would land a man in the bottom of a deep chasm. Climbing the face of a cliff, a man will, without hesitancy, walk along a step or shelf but a few inches wide if the landing is but ten feet below. But if the foot of the cliff is a thousand feet down he will prefer to crawl along the shelf. At last our way is cut off by a fissure so deep and wide that we cannot pass it. Then we turn and walk back into the country over the smooth, naked sandstone, without vegetation, except that here and there dwarf cedars and pen and pines have found a footing in the huge cracks. There are great basins in the rock, holding water, some but a few gallons, others hundreds of barrels. The day is spent in walking about through these strange scenes. A narrow gulch is cut into the wall of the main canyon. Follow this up and the climb is rapid, as if going up a mountainside, for the gulch heads but a few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall. But this gulch has its side gulches and as the summit is approached a group of radiating canyons is found. The spaces drained by these little canyons are terraced and are, to a greater or less extent, of the form of amphitheaters, though some are oblong and some rather irregular. Usually the spaces drained by any two of these little side canyons are separated by narrow wall, one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred feet high, and often but a few feet in thickness. Sometimes the wall is broken into a line of pyramids above and still remains a wall below. There are a number of these gulches which break the wall of the main canyon of the green, each one having its system of side canyons and amphitheaters, enclosed by walls or lines of pinnacles. The course of the green at this point is approximately at right angles to that of the Colorado, and on the brink of the latter canyon we find the same system of terraced and walled glens. The walls and pinnacles and towers are of sandstone, homogenous in structure but not in color, as they show broad bands of red, buff, and gray. This painting of the rocks, dividing them into sections, increases their apparent height. In some places these terraced and walled glens along the Colorado have coalesced with those along the green, that is, the intervening walls are broken down. It is very rarely that a loose rock is seen. The sand is washed off so that the walls, terraces, and slopes of the glens are all of smooth sandstone. In the walls themselves curious caves and channels have been carved. In some places there are little stairways up the walls. In others the walls present what are known as royal arches, and so we wander through glens and among pinnacles and climb the walls from early morn until late in the afternoon. We start this morning on the Colorado. The river is rough and bad rapids and close succession are found. Two very hard portages are made during the forenoon. After dinner, in running a rapid, the Emma Dean is swamped and we are thrown into the river. We cling to the boat, and in the first quiet water below she is rited and bailed out. But three oars are lost in this mishap. The larger boats land above the dangerous place, and we make a portage, which occupies all the afternoon. We camp at night on the rocks on the left bank, and can scarcely find room to lie down. July 22. This morning we continue our journey, though short of oars. There is no timber growing on the walls within our reach, and no driftwood along the banks, so we are compelled to go on until something suitable can be found. A mile and three-quarters below we find a huge pile of driftwood, among which are some cottonwood logs. From these we select one which we think the best, and the men are set at work sawing oars. Our boats are leaking again, from the strains received in the bad rapids yesterday, so after dinner they are turned over and some of the men cock them. Captain Powell and I go out to climb the wall to the east, for we can see dwarf pines above, and it is our purpose to collect the resin which oozes from them to use in pitching our boats. We take a barometer with us and find that the walls are becoming higher, for now they register an altitude above the river of nearly 1,500 feet. July 23. On starting we come at once to difficult rapids and falls, that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons through which we have passed, and we decide to name this Cataract Canyon. From morning until noon the course of the river is to the west. The scenery is grand, with rapids and falls below, and walls above, beset with crags and pinnacles. Just at noon we wheel again to the south and go into camp for dinner. While the cook is preparing it, Bradley, Captain Powell, and I go up into a side canyon that comes in at this point. We enter through a very narrow passage having to wait along the course of a little stream until a cascade interrupts our progress. Then we climb to the right for a hundred feet until we reach a little shelf along which we pass, walking with great care for it is narrow. Thus we pass around the fall. Here the gorge widens into a spacious sky-roofed chamber, and the farther end is a beautiful grove of cottonwoods, and between us and the cottonwoods the little stream widens out into three clear lakelets with bottoms of smooth rock. Beyond the cottonwoods the brook tumbles into a series of white, shining cascades, from heights that seem immeasurable. Turning around we can look through the cleft through which we came, and see the river with towering walls beyond. What a chamber for a resting place is this. Hewn from the solid rock, the heavens for a ceiling, cascade fountains within, a grove in the conservatory, clear lakelets for a refreshing bath, and an outlook through the doorway on a raging river with cliffs and mountains beyond. Our way after dinner is through a gorge, grand beyond description. The walls are nearly vertical, the river broad and swift, but free from rocks and falls. From the edge of the water to the brink of the cliffs it is one thousand six hundred to one thousand eight hundred feet. At this great depth the river rolls in solemn majesty. The cliffs are reflected from the more quiet water, and we seem to be in the depths of the earth, and yet we can look down into the waters that reflect a bottomless abyss. Early in the afternoon we arrive at the head of more rapids and falls, but, wearied with past work, we determine to rest, so go into camp, and the afternoon and evening are spent by the men in discussing the probabilities of successfully navigating the river below. The barometric records are examined to see what descent we have made since we left the mouth of the Grand, and what descent since we left the Pacific Bale Road, and what fall there yet must be to the river ere we reach the end of the Great Canyons. The conclusion at which the men arrive seems to be about this, that there are great descents yet to be made, but if they are distributed in rapids and short falls, as they have been here to fore, we shall be able to overcome them. But maybe we shall come to a fall in these Canyons which we cannot pass, where the walls rise from the water's edge, so that we cannot land, and where the water is so swift that we cannot return. Such places have been found, except that the falls were not so great, but that we could run them with safety. How will it be in the future? So they speculate over the serious probabilities ingesting mood. July 24th. We examine the rapids below. Large rocks have fallen from the walls, great angular blocks, which have rolled down the talus and are strewn along the channel. We are compelled to make three partages in succession, the distance being less than three-fourths of a mile, with a fall of 75 feet. Among these rocks, enshoots, whirlpools, and great waves with rushing breakers and foam, the water finds its way, still tumbling down. We stop for the night only three-fourths of a mile below the last camp. A very hard day's work has been done, and evening I sit on a rock by the edge of the river and look at the water and listen to its roar. Hours ago deep shadows settled into the canyon, as the sun passed behind the cliffs. Now doubtless the sun has gone down, for we can see no glint of light on the crags above. Darkness is coming on, but the waves are rolling with crests of foam so white they seem almost to give a light of their own. Nearby a shoot of water strikes the foot of a great block of limestone fifty feet high, and the waters pile up against it and roll back. Where there are sunken rocks the water heaps up in mounds, or even in cones. At a point where rocks come very near the surface the water forms a shoot above, strikes, and is shot up ten or fifteen feet, and piles back in gentle curves, as in a fountain, and on the river tumbles and rolls. July 25. Still more rapids and falls to-day. In one the Amadine is caught in a whirlpool and set spinning about, and it is with great difficulty we are able to get out of it with only the loss of an oar. At noon another is made, and on we go, running some of the rapids, letting down with lines past others, and making two short portages. We camp on the right bank, hungry and tired. July 26. We run a short distance this morning, and go into camp to make oars and repair boats and barometers. The walls of the canyon have been steadily increasing in altitude to this point, and now they are more than two thousand feet high. In many places they are vertical from the water's edge, and others there is a talus between the river and the foot of the cliff, and they are often broken down by side canyons. It is probable that the river is nearly as low now as it is ever found. High water mark can be observed forty, fifty, sixty, or a hundred feet above its present stage. Sometimes logs and driftwood are seen wedged into the crevices overhead, where floods have carried them. About ten o'clock Powell, Bradley, Howland, Hall, and I start up a side canyon to the east. We soon come to pools of water, then to a brook, which is lost in the sands below. And passing up the brook we see that the canyon narrows, the walls close in and are often overhanging, and at last we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, with a pool of deep, clear, cold water on the bottom. At first our way seems cut off, but we soon discover a little shelf along which we climb, and passing beyond the pool, walk a hundred yards or more, turn to the right, and find ourselves in another dome- shaped amphitheater. There is a winding cleft at the top, reaching out to the country above, nearly two thousand feet overhead. The rounded, basin-shaped bottom is filled with water to the foot of the walls. There is no shelf by which we can pass around the foot. If we swim across, we meet with a face of rock hundreds of feet high, over which a little rill glides, and it will be impossible to climb. So we can go no farther up this canyon. Then we turn back and examine the walls on either side carefully to discover if possible some way of climbing out. In this search every man takes his own course, and we are scattered. I almost abandon the idea of getting out, and am engaged in searching for fossils, when I discover, on the north, a broken place lip, which it may be possible to climb. The way for a distance is up a slide of rocks, then up an irregular amphitheater, on points that form steps and give hand-hold. And then I reach a little shelf along which I walk, and discover a vertical fissure parallel to the face of the wall, and reaching to a higher shelf. This fissure is narrow, and I try to climb up to the bench, which is about forty feet overhead. I have a barometer on my back, which rather impedes my climbing. The walls of the fissure are of smooth limestone, offering neither foot-hold nor hand-hold. So I support myself by pressing my back against one wall, and my knees against the other. And in this way lift my body in a shuffling manner, a few inches at a time, until I have made perhaps twenty-five feet of the distance, when the crevice widens a little, and I cannot press my knees against the rock in front with sufficient power to give me support in lifting my body. So I try to go back. This I cannot do without falling. So I struggle along side-wise farther into the crevice where it narrows. But by this time my muscles are exhausted, and I cannot climb longer. So I move still a little farther into the crevice, where it is so narrow and wedging that I can lie in it, and there I rest. Five or ten minutes of this relief, and up once more I go, and reach the bench above. On this I can walk for a quarter of a mile, till I come to a place where the wall is again broken down, so I can climb up still farther. And in an hour I reach the summit. I hang up my barometer to give it a few minutes time to settle, and occupy myself in collecting resin from the pin-and-pines, which are found in great abundance. One of the principal objects in making this climb was to get this resin for the purpose of smearing our boats. But I have with me no means of carrying it down. The day is very hot, and my coat was left in camp, so I have no linings to tear out. Then it occurs to me to cut off the sleeve of my shirt, and tie it up at one end, and in this little sack I collect about a gallon of pitch. After taking observations for altitude I wander back on the rock for an hour or two, when suddenly I notice that a storm is coming from the south. I seek a shelter in the rocks, but when the storm bursts it comes down as a flood from the heavens, not with gentle drops at first, slowly increasing in quantity, but as if suddenly poured out. I am thoroughly drenched and almost washed away. It lasts not more than half an hour when the clouds sweep by to the north, and I have sunshine again. In the meantime I've discovered a better way of getting down, and start for camp, making the greatest taste possible. On reaching the bottom of the side canyon I find a thousand streams rolling down the cliffs on every side, carrying with them red sand, and these all unite in the canyon below in one great stream of red mud. Travelling as fast as I can run I soon reached the foot of the stream, for the rain did not reach the lower end of the canyon, and the water is running down a dry bed of sand, and although at conies and waves several feet high, and fifteen or twenty feet in width, the sand soak it up, and it is lost. But wave follows wave, and rolls along, and it has swallowed up, and still the floods come on from above. I find that I can travel faster than the stream, so I hasten to camp and tell the men there is a river coming down the canyon. We carry our camp-equipage hastily from the bank to where we think it will be above the water. Then we stand by and see the river roll on to join the Colorado. Great quantities of gypsum are found at the bottom of the gorge, so we name it Gypsum Canyon. July 27. We have more rapids and falls until noon. Then we come to a narrow place in the canyon, with vertical walls for several hundred feet, above which are steep steps and sloping rocks back to the summits. The river is very narrow, and we make our way with great care and much anxiety hugging the wall on the left and carefully examining the way before us. Late in the afternoon we pass to the left around a sharp point, which is somewhat broken down near the foot, and discover a flock of mountain sheep on the rocks more than a hundred feet above us. We land quickly in a cove out of sight, and away go all the hunters with their guns, for the sheep have not discovered us. Soon we hear firing, and those of us who have remained in the boats climb up to see what success the hunters have had. One sheep has been killed, and two of the men are still pursuing them. In a few minutes we hear firing again, and the next moment down come the flock clattering over the rocks within twenty yards of us. One of the hunters seizes his gun and brings a second sheep down, and the next minute the remainder of the flock is lost behind the rocks. We all give chase, but it is impossible to follow their tracks over the naked rock, and we see them no more. Where they went out of this rock-walled canyon is a mystery, for we can see no way of escape. Doubtless if we could spare the time for the search, we should find a gulch up which they ran. We lash our prizes to the deck of one of the boats, and go on for a short distance. But fresh meat is too tempting for us, and we stop early to have a feast. At a feast it is. Too fine young sheep. We care not for bread, or beans, or dried apples tonight. Coffee and mutton are all, we ask. July 28. We make two portages this morning, one of them very long. During the afternoon we run a chute more than half a mile in length, narrow and rapid. This chute has a floor of marble. The rocks dip in the direction in which we are going, and the fall of the stream conforms to the inclination of the beds, so we float on water that is gliding down an inclined plane. At the foot of the chute the river turns sharply to the right, and the water rolls up against a rock, which from above seems to stand directly a thwart its course. As we approach it we pull with all our power to the right, but it seems impossible to avoid being carried headlong against the cliff. We are carried up high on the waves, but not against the rock, for the rebounding water strikes us and we are beaten back and pass on with safety, except that we get a good drenching. After this the walls suddenly close in, so that the canyon is narrower than we have ever known it. The water fills it from wall to wall, giving us no landing place at the foot of the cliff. The river is very swift and the canyon very tortuous, so that we can see but a few hundred yards ahead. The walls tower over us, often overhanging, so as almost to shut out the light. I stand on deck watching with intense anxiety, lest this may lead us into some danger. But we glide along with no obstruction, no falls, no rocks, and in a mile and a half emerge from the narrow gorge into a more open and broken portion of the canyon. Now that it is past it seems a very simple thing indeed to run through such a place, but the fear of what might be ahead made a deep impression on us. At three o'clock we arrive at the foot of Cataract Canyon. Here a long canyon valley comes down from the east, and the river turns sharply to the west in a continuation of the line of the lateral valley. In the bend on the right vast numbers of crags and pinnacles and tower-shaped rocks are seen. We call it Meadle Craig Bend. And now we wheel into another canyon, on swift water unobstructed by rocks. This new canyon is very narrow and very straight, with walls vertical below and terraced above. Where we enter it the brink of the cliff is 1,300 feet above the water, but the rocks dip to the west, and as the course of the canyon is in that direction the walls are seen slowly to decrease in altitude. Floating down this narrow channel and looking out through the canyon crevice away in the distance the river is seen to turn again to the left, and beyond this point away many miles a great mountain is seen. Still floating down we see other mountains now on the right, now on the left, until a great mountain range is unfolded to view. We name this Narrow Canyon, and it terminates at the bend of the river below. As we go down to this point we discover the mouth of a stream which enters from the right. Into this our little boat is turned. The water is exceedingly muddy and has an unpleasant odor. One of the men in the boat following, seeing what we have done, shouts to Dunn, and asks whether it is a trout stream. Dunn replies, much disgusted, that it is a dirty devil, and by this name the river is to be known hereafter. Some of us go out for a half a mile and climb a butte to the north. The course of the dirty devil river can be traced for many miles. It comes down through a very narrow canyon and beyond it to the southwest there is a long line of cliffs with a broad terrace or bench between it and the brink of the canyon, and beyond these cliffs is situated the range of mountains seen as we came down Narrow Canyon. Looking up the Colorado the chasm through which it runs can be seen, but we cannot see down to its waters. The whole country is a region of naked rock of many colors with cliffs and buttes about us and towering mountains in the distance. July 29. We enter a canyon today with low red walls. A short distance below its head we discover the ruins of an old building on the left wall. There is a narrow plain between the river and the wall just here, and on the brink of a rock two hundred feet high stands this old house. Its walls are of stone laid in mortar with much regularity. It was probably built three stories high. The lower story is yet almost intact. The second is much broken down, and scarcely anything is left of the third. Great quantities of flint chips are found on the rocks nearby, and many arrowheads, some perfect, others broken, and fragments of pottery are strewn about in great perfusion. On the face of the cliff under the building and along down the river for two hundred to three hundred yards there are many etchings. Two hours are given to the examination of these interesting ruins. Then we run down fifteen miles farther and discover another group. The principal building was situated on the summit of the hill. A part of the walls are standing to the height of eight or ten feet, and the mortar yet remains in some places. The house was in the shape of an L with five rooms on the ground floor, one in the angle and two in each extension. In the space in the angle there is a deep excavation. From what we know of the people in the province of Tusayan, who are doubtless of the same race as the former inhabitants of these ruins, we conclude that this was a kiva or underground chamber in which their religious ceremonies were performed. We leave these ruins and run down two or three miles and go into camp about mid- afternoon, and now I climb the wall and go out into the back country for a walk. The sandstone through which the canyon is cut is red and homogenous, being the same as that through which labyrinth canyon runs. The smooth naked rock stretches out on either side of the river for many miles, but curiously carved mounds and cones are scattered everywhere and deep holes are worn out. Many of these pockets are filled with water. In one of these holes or wells, twenty feet deep, I find a tree growing. The excavation is so narrow that I can step from its brink to a limb on the tree and descend to the bottom of the well down a growing ladder. Many of these pockets are potholes being found in the courses of little rills or brooks that run during the rains, which occasionally fall in this region. And often a few harder rocks which evidently assisted in their excavation can be found in their bottoms. Others which are shallower are not so easily explained. Perhaps where they are found softer spots existed in the sandstone, places that yielded more readily to atmospheric degradation, the loose sands being carried away by the winds. Just before sundown I attempt to climb a rounded eminence from which I hope to obtain a good outlook on the surrounding country. It is formed of smooth mounds piled one above another. Up these I climb winding here and there to find a practical way, until near the summit they become too steep for me to proceed. I search about a few minutes for an easier way when I am surprised at finding a stairway evidently cut in the rock by hands. At one place where there is a vertical wall of ten or twelve feet I find an old rickety ladder. It may be that this was a watchtower of that ancient people whose homes we have found in ruins. On many of the tributaries of the Colorado I have here too fore examined their deserted dwellings. Those that show evidences of being built during the latter part of their occupation of the country are usually placed on the most inaccessible cliffs. Sometimes the mouths of caves have been walled across, and there are many other evidences to show their anxiety to secure defensible positions. Probably the nomadic tribes were sweeping down upon them and they resorted to these cliffs and canyons for safety. It is not unreasonable to suppose that this orange mound was used as a watch tower. Here I stand where these now lost people stood centuries ago and look over this strange country gazing off to great mountains in the northwest which are slowly disappearing under cover of the night. And then I return to camp. It is no easy task to find my way down the wall in the darkness and I clamor about until it is nearly midnight when camp is reached. July 30. We make good progress today as the water, though smooth, is swift. Sometimes the canyon walls are vertical to the top. Sometimes they are vertical below and have a mound covered slope above. In other places the slope with its mounds comes down to the water's edge. Still proceeding on our way, we find that the orange sandstone is cut into by a group of firm calcareous strata and the lower bed is underlaid by soft gypsiferous shales. Sometimes the upper homogenous bed is a smooth vertical wall, but usually it is carved with mounds, with gently meandering valley lines. The lower bed yielding to gravity as the softer shales below work out into the river breaks into angular surfaces, often having a columnar appearance. One could almost imagine that the walls had been carved with a purpose to represent giant architectural forms. In the deep recesses of the walls we find springs with mosses and ferns on the moisten sandstone. July 31. We have a cool pleasant ride today through this part of the canyon. The walls are steadily increasing in altitude, the curves are gentle, and often the river sweeps by an arc of vertical wall, smooth and unbroken, and then by a curve that is variegated by royal arches, mossy elcoves, deep beautiful glens, and painted grottos. Soon after dinner we discover the mouth of the San Juan, where we camp. The remainder of the afternoon is given to hunting some way by which we can climb out of the canyon, but it ends in failure. August 1. We drop down two miles this morning and go into camp again. There is a low willow covered strip of land along the walls on the east. Across this we walk to explore an alcove which we see from the river. On entering we find a little grove of box elder and cottonwood trees, and turning to the right we find ourselves in a vast chamber carved out of the rock. At the upper end there is a clear deep pool of water, bordered with verdure. Standing by the side of this we can see the grove at the entrance. The chamber is more than two hundred feet high, five hundred feet long, and two hundred feet wide. Through the ceiling and on through the rocks for a thousand feet above there is a narrow winding skylight, and this is all carved out by a little stream which runs only during the few showers that fall now and then in this arid country. The waters from the bare rocks back of the canyon, gathering rapidly into a small channel, have eroded a deep side canyon through which they run until they fall into the farther end of this chamber. The rock at the ceiling is hard, the rock below very soft and friable, and having cut through the upper and harder portion down into the lower and softer the stream has washed out these friable sandstones, and thus the chamber has been excavated. Here we bring our camp. When old Shady sings us a song at night we are pleased to find that this hollow in the rock is filled with sweet sounds. It was doubtless made for an academy of music by its storm-born architecture, so we name it Music Temple. August 2. We still keep our camp in Music Temple today. I wish to obtain a view of the adjacent country if possible. So early in the morning the men take me across the river, and I pass along by the foot of the cliff half a mile upstream, and then climb, first up broken ledges, then two hundred or three hundred yards up a smooth sloping rock, and then pass out on a narrow ridge. Still I find I have not attained an altitude from which I can overlook the region outside of the canyon, and so I descend into a little gulch and climb again to a higher ridge, all the way along Naked Sandstone, and at last I reach a point of commanding view. I can look several miles up the San Juan and a long distance up the Colorado, and away to the northwest I can see the Henry Mountains, to the northeast the Sierra La Salle, to the southeast Unknown Mountains, and to the southwest the meandering of the canyon. Then I return to the bank of the river. We sleep again in Music Temple. August 3. Start early this morning. The features of this canyon are greatly diversified, still vertical walls at times. These are usually found to stand above great curves. The river sweeping around these bends undermines the cliffs in places. Sometimes the rocks are overhanging. In other curves curious narrow glens are found. Through these we climb by a rough stairway, perhaps several hundred feet, to where a spring bursts out from under an overhanging cliff, and where cottonwoods and willows stand, while along the curves of the brooklet oaks grow, and other rich vegetation is seen in marked contrast to the general appearance of Naked Rock. We call these Oak Glens. Other wonderful features are the many side canyons or gorges that we pass. Sometimes we stop to explore these for a short distance. In some places their walls are much nearer each other above than below, so they look somewhat like caves or chambers in the rocks. Usually in going up such a gorge we find beautiful vegetation, but our way is often cut off by deep basins or potholes, as they are called. On the walls and back many miles into the country, numbers of monument-shaped buttes are observed, so we have a curious ensemble of wonderful features, carved walls, royal arches, glens, alcove, gulches, mounds, and monuments. From which of these features shall we select a name? We decide to call it Glenn Canyon. Past these towering monuments, past these mounted billows of orange sandstone, past these oak-set glens, past these fern-decked alcoves, past these mural curves, we glide hour after hour, stopping now and then, as our attention is arrested by some new wonder, until we reach a point which is historic. In the year 1776 Father Escalante, a Spanish priest, made an expedition from Santa Fe to the northwest, crossing the Grand and Green, and then passing down along the Wasache Mountains and the Southern Plateaus until he reached the Rio Virgin. His intention was to cross to the mission of Monterey, but from information received from the Indians, he decided that the route was impracticable. Not wishing to return to Santa Fe over the Securitist route by which he had just travelled, he attempted to go by one more direct, which led him across the Colorado at a point known as Elvado de las Padres. From the description which we have read we are enabled to determine the place. A little stream comes down through a very narrow side canyon from the west. It was down this that he came, and our boats are lying at the point where the ford crosses. A well-beaten Indian trail is seen here yet. Between the cliff and the river there is a little meadow. The ashes of many campfires are seen, and the bones of numbers of cattle are bleaching on the grass. For several years the Navajos have raided on the Mormons that dwell in the valleys to the west, and they doubtless cross frequently at this ford with their stolen cattle. August 4 Today the walls grow higher and the canyon much narrower. Monuments are still seen on either side. Beautiful glens and alcoves and gorges and side canyons are yet found. After dinner we find the river making a sudden turn to the northwest, and the whole character of the canyon changed. The walls are many hundreds of feet higher, and the rocks are chiefly variegated shales of beautiful colors, creamy orange above, then bright vermilion, and below purple and chocolate beds with green and yellow sands. We run four miles through this in a direction a little to the west of north, wheel again to the west, and pass into a portion of the canyon where the characteristics are more like those above the bend. At night we stop at the mouth of a creek coming in from the right, and suppose it to be the pariah, which was described to me last year by a Mormon missionary. Here the canyon terminates abruptly in a line of cliffs, which stretches from either side across the river. August 5. With some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this morning. We have learned to observe closely the texture of the rock. In softer strata we have a quiet river. In harder we find rapids and falls. Below us are the limestones and hard sandstones which we found in Cataract Canyon. This bodes toil and danger. Besides the texture of the rocks there is another condition which affects the character of the channel, as we have found by experience. Where the strata are horizontal the river is often quiet, and even though it may be very swift in places no great obstacles are found. Where the rocks incline in the direction traveled the river usually sweeps with great velocity, but still has few rapids and falls. But where the rocks dip upstream and the river cuts obliquely across the upturned formations, harder strata above and softer below, we have rapids and falls. Into hard rocks and into rocks dipping upstream we pass this morning, and start on a long rocky mad rapid. On the left there is a vertical rock, and down by this cliff and around to the left we glide, tossed just enough by the waves to appreciate the rate at which we are traveling. The canyon is narrow with vertical walls which gradually grow higher. More rapids and falls are found. We come to one with the drop of 16 feet around which we make a portage, and then stop for dinner. Then a run of two miles, and another portage, long and difficult, then we camp for the night on a bank of sand. August 6. Canyon walls still higher and higher as we go down through strata. There is a steep talus at the foot of the cliff, and in some places the upper parts of the walls are terraced. About ten o'clock we come to a place where the river occupies the entire channel, and the walls are vertical from the water's edge. We see a fall below and row up against the cliff. There is a little shelf, or rather a horizontal crevice, a few feet over our heads. One man stands on the deck of the boat, another climbs on his shoulders, and then into the crevice. Then we pass him a line, and two or three others with myself follow. Then we pass along the crevice until it becomes a shelf, as the upper part, or roof, is broken off. On this we walk for a short distance, slowly climbing all the way, until we reach a point where the shelf is broken off, and we can pass no farther. So we go back to the boat, cross the stream, and get some logs that have lodged in the rocks. Bring them to our side, pass them along the crevice and shelf, and bridge over the broken place. Then we go on to a point over the falls, but do not obtain a satisfactory view. So we climb out to the top of the wall and walk along to find a point below the fall from which it can be seen. From this point it seems possible to let down our boats with lines to the head of the rapids, and then make a portage. So we return, row down by the side of the cliff as far as we dare, and fasten one of the boats to a rock. Then we let down another boat to the end of its line beyond the first, and the third boat to the end of its line below the second, which brings it to the head of the fall and under an overhanging rock. Then the upper boat, in obedience to a signal, lets go. We pull in the line and catch the nearest boat as it comes, and then the last. The portage follows. We go into camp early this afternoon at a place where it seems possible to climb out, and the evening is spent in making observations for time. August 7. The Almanac tells us that we are to have an eclipse of the sun today. So Captain Powell and myself start early, taking our instruments with us for the purpose of making observations on the eclipse to determine our longitude. Arriving at the summit, after four hours hard climbing to attain 2,300 feet in height, we hurriedly build a platform of rocks on which to place our instruments, and quietly wait for the eclipse. But clouds come on and rain falls, and sun and moon are obscured. Much disappointed we start on our return to camp, but it is late and the clouds make the night very dark. We feel our way down among the rocks with great care for two or three hours, making slow progress indeed. At last we lose our way, and dare proceed no farther. The rain comes down in torrents, and we can find no shelter. We can neither climb up nor go down, and in the darkness dare not move about. So we sit and weather out the night. August 8. Daylight comes after a long oh how long a night, and we soon reach camp. After breakfast we start again and make two portages during the forenoon. The limestone of this canyon is often polished, and makes a beautiful marble. Sometimes the rocks are of many colors, white, gray, pink, and purple, with saffron tints. It is with very great labour that we make progress, meeting with many obstructions, running rapids, letting down our boats with lines from rock to rock, and sometimes carrying boats and cargoes around bad places. We camp at night, just after a hard portage, under an overhanging wall, glad to find shelter from the rain. We have to search for some time to find a few sticks of driftwood, just sufficient to boil a cup of coffee. The water sweeps rapidly in this elbow of river, and has cut its way under the rock, excavating a vast half circular chamber, which, if utilized for a theatre, would give sitting to fifty thousand people. Objection might be raised against it, however, for at high water the floor is covered with a raging flood. August 9. And now the scenery is on a grand scale. The walls of the canyon, two thousand five hundred feet high, are of marble, of many beautiful colors, often polished below by the waves, and sometimes far up the sides, where showers have washed the sands over the cliffs. At one place I have a walk for more than a mile on a marble pavement, all polished and fretted with strange devices and embossed in a thousand fantastic patterns. Through a cleft in the wall the sun shines on this pavement, and it gleams an iridescent beauty. I pass up into the cleft. It is very narrow, with a succession of pools, standing at higher levels as I go back. The water in these pools is clear and cool, coming down from springs. Then I return to the pavement, which is but a terrace or bench, over which the river runs at its flood, but left bare at present. Along the pavement in many places are basins of clear water, in strange contrast to the red mud of the river. At length I come to the end of this marble terrace and take again to the boat. Riding down a short distance, a beautiful view is presented. The river turns sharply to the east and seems enclosed by a wall set with a million brilliant gems. What can it mean? Every eye is engaged. Everyone wonders. On coming nearer we find fountains bursting from the rock high overhead, and the spray in the sunshine forms the gems which bedeck the wall. The rocks below the fountain are covered with mosses and ferns, and many beautiful flowering plants. We name it Vassie's Paradise, in honour of the botanist who travelled with us last year. We pass many side canyons today that are dark, gloomy passages back into the heart of the rocks that form the plateau through which this canyon is cut. It rains again this afternoon. Scarcely do the first drops fall when little rills run down the walls. As the storm comes on the little rills increase in size until great streams are formed. Although the walls of the canyon are chiefly limestone, the adjacent country is of red sandstone, and now the waters, loaded with these sands, come down in rivers of bright red mud, leaping over the walls in innumerable cascades. It is plain now how these walls are polished in many places. At last the storm ceases and we go on. We have cut through the sandstones and limestones met in the upper part of the canyon, and through one great bed of marble a thousand feet in thickness. In this great numbers of caves are hollowed out, and carvings are seen which suggest architectural forms, though on a scale so grand that architectural terms belittle them. As this great bed forms a distinctive feature of the canyon, we call it marble canyon. It is a peculiar feature of these walls that many projections are set out into the river as if the wall was buttressed for support. The walls themselves are half a mile high, and these buttresses are on a corresponding scale jutting into the river scores a feat. In the recesses between these projections there are quiet bays except at the foot of a rapid when there are dancing eddies or whirlpools. Sometimes these alcoves have caves at the back giving them the appearance of great depth. Then other caves are seen above forming vast dome-shaped chambers. The walls and buttresses and chambers are all of marble. The river is now quiet, the canyon wider. Above, when the river is at its flood, the waters gorge up so that the difference between high and low water mark is often 50 or even 70 feet, but here high water mark is not more than 20 feet above the present stage of the river. Sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the water and the wall. Here we first discover mesquite shrubs, small trees with finely divided leaves and pods somewhat like the locust. August 10. Walls still higher. Water swift again. We pass several broad-regged canyons on our right and up through these we catch glimpses of a forest-clad plateau miles away to the west. At two o'clock we reach the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito. This stream enters through a canyon on a scale quite as grand as that of the Colorado itself. It is a very small river and exceedingly muddy and saline. I walk up the stream three or four miles this afternoon crossing and recrossing where I can't easily wait it. Then I climb several hundred feet at one place and can see for several miles up the chasm through which the river runs. On my way back I kill two rattlesnakes and find on my arrival that another has been killed just at camp. August 11. We remain at this point today for the purpose of determining the latitude and longitude, measuring the height of the walls, drying our rations, and repairing our boats. Captain Powell early in the morning takes a barometer and goes out to climb a point between the two rivers. I walk down the gorge to the left at the foot of the cliff, climb to a bench, and discover a trail deeply worn in the rock. Where it crosses the side gulches in some places steps have been cut. I can see no evidence of it having been traveled for a long time. It was doubtless a path used by the people who inhabited this country and interior to the present Indian races, the people who built the communal houses of which mention has been made. I return to camp about three o'clock and find that some of the men have discovered ruins and many fragments of pottery, also etchings and hieroglyphics on the rocks. We find tonight on comparing the readings of the barometers that the walls are about three thousand feet high, more than half a mile, and altitude difficult to appreciate from a mere statement of feet. The slope by which the ascent is made is not such a slope as is usually found in climbing a mountain, but one much more abrupt, often vertical for many hundreds of feet, so that the impression is given that we are at great depths and we look up to see but a little patch of sky. Between the two streams above the Colorado Chiquito, in some places the rocks are broken and shelving for six hundred or seven hundred feet. Then there is a sloping terrace which can be climbed only by finding some way up a gulch, then another terrace, and back still another cliff. The summit of the cliff is three thousand feet above the river as a barometer's attest. Our camp is below the Colorado Chiquito and on the eastern side of the canyon. August 12. The rocks above camp are rust-colored sandstones and conglomerates. Some are very hard, others quite soft. They all lie nearly horizontal and the beds of softer material have been washed out, leaving the harder forming a series of shelves. Long lines of these are seen of varying thickness, from one or two to twenty or thirty feet, and the spaces between have the same variability. This morning I spend two or three hours in climbing among these shelves, and then I pass above them and go up a long slope to the foot of the cliff and try to discover some way by which I can reach the top of the wall. But I find my progress cut off by an amphitheater. Then I wander away round to the left, up a little gulch and along benches, climbing from time to time, until I reach an altitude of nearly two thousand feet and can get no higher. From this point I can look off to the west, upside canyons of the Colorado, and see the edge of a great plateau from which streams run down into the Colorado, and deep gulches in the escarpment, which faces us, continued by canyons, ragged and flaring, and set with cliffs and towering crags down to the river. I can see far up marble canyon to long lines of chocolate-colored cliffs, and above these the vermilion cliffs. I can see also up the Colorado Chiquito, through a very ragged and broken canyon with sharp salience set out from the walls on either side, their points overlapping, so that a huge tooth of marble on one side seems to be set between two teeth on the opposite. And I can also get glimpses of walls standing away back from the river, while over my head are mural escarpments not possible to be scaled. Cataract Canyon is 41 miles long. The walls are 1,300 feet high at its head, and they gradually increase in altitude to a point about halfway down, where they are 2,700 feet, and then decrease to 1,300 feet at the foot. Narrow canyon is nine and a half miles long, with walls 1,300 feet in height at the head, and coming down to the water at the foot. There is very little vegetation in this canyon, or in the adjacent country. Just at the junction of the Grand and Green there are a number of Hackberry trees, and along the entire length of Cataract Canyon the high water line is marked by scattered trees of the same species. A few nutpines and cedars are found, and occasionally a redbud or Judas tree. But the general aspect of the canyons and of the adjacent country is that of naked rock. The distance through Glen Canyon is 149 miles. Its walls vary in height from 200 or 300 to 1,600 feet. Marble Canyon is 65 and a half miles long. At its head it is 200 feet deep, and it steadily increases in depth to its foot, where its walls are 3,500 feet high. End of chapter 10