 Hi you guys, Lindsay here. Welcome back to my channel, Inside the Hymn. So we are going to learn today how to add a Henley Placket to absolutely any knit t-shirt pattern that you've got. I am starting with Simplicity 8016. I made version or I cut out version A, lengthen it to a dress, and I also reshaped the neckline. I will be posting this tutorial how to redraw a neckline in next Tuesday's Tuesday toot video. So if you want to know how to alter a neckline, be sure to check out that video. But for today, we're only going to be working on the Henley Placket, which is kind of like a center front button placket that only goes a few inches down from your neckline. So I've got the front of my pattern cut out with the fabric. I've got my neckband and I've got what will be the placket itself. And if you're wondering what I'm using to kind of do all of this, it is the Henley Placket instructions and the stretch ruler both from Stitch Buzz. She has this stretch ruler that you can purchase. The stretch ruler is actually intended to help you figure out the stretch of a fabric. I took this with me whenever I went to Joanne to find fabric for the sew along that I'm doing on Saturdays this month, because Joanne does not have stretch marked on their bolts. So you don't know how much stretch it is and you need to know if it's going to be enough stretch for your project. So I took this with me, took a little bit of video, and well, I had one of the employees help me film it. So it's not perfect, but it's definitely viewable. You can see what's going on. So that's what the stretch ruler is intended to do, but you can also use this guy to help you make this Henley, which is what we're going to be doing today. So I love a two for one. I love one product that has dual purposes. So outside of cutting out your pattern, including the neck band, you need to cut out a piece of fabric that is five and a half inches wide by however long you want your Henley to be plus half an inch. So I have decided on a four and a half inch Henley. And so this is five inches. So I've got a five and a half by five inch rectangle here. I also interfaced it. So it's got some interfacing on the back. The interfacing doesn't have to be knit. You don't need this to stretch when you're done with it. In fact, it might honestly be a little bit better if it had some stability because you know, it's going to be on the neckline and holding buttons and buttonholes and you really want it to be, you know, kind of sturdy. So once you have that now, the rest of this party is all about measuring and drawing in kind of all the stuff that you need. So I'm going to start by trimming some of this interfacing off just so I can make sure that I've got a clean slate that I'm working with. Okay, perfect. All right. And just like the diagram, I've got the five and a half inch section facing away from me and the length of the Henley facing the edges, the sides. So I'm going to turn this over and make all of these little marks that they are saying that we need. So the cool part about the stretch ruler is it has these little holes. And I'm not even totally sure if you can see them from here, but every half an inch, there's a hole. And then the holes are placed a quarter of an inch in on the ruler. Another fun fact is from this edge to the arrow is five eighths of an inch. And then from edge to edge, it's one and a half inches. So it's a fun little ruler to have if you need to do any seam allowance marking or, you know, any of those kind of basic measurements, this one guy you can reach for and it will help you with that as well. But I'm going to line this guy up and just start marking these dots all along both of the four, both of the five inch edges. Okay, so then take your ruler and connect all of these. Okay, perfect. And now we need to mark one inch intervals. And we're going to make one, two, three, four additional lines, all of them one inch apart. Okay, perfect. And then we also need to mark half an inch up from the bottom of this line. And if you remember, our little dots are exactly half an inch from the edge. So you can kind of draw one line there. Get the dots centered, draw another line there and then connect the two like so. And then we also need to split the difference along this middle one here and draw our little triangle that will end up being help us turn our placket right side out. And since I told you this is one and a half inches wide, so I can line this up with one of my one inch marks and it will mark, it'll tell me halfway between the other of the half inch marks. Does that make sense? I'm just using a little bit of fun basic math. And then you need to draw your triangle lines. I don't think that they are necessarily any, it doesn't matter how far this distance is, you just want to make sure that it's not too big. So we've got that one, that leg, and then our other leg. And again, I'm just following the instructions that come with the stretch ruler. I didn't come up with any of this myself. Okay, so now we've got everything drawn on. And we need to snip from this edge to our half inch line on each one of these guys. Okay, and now we need to put our steamer seam light. This is the lightweight steamer seam and it's gotten really dusty. I probably need to store it somewhere else. Anyways, to the outer edges on the right side of the fabric. So I'm going to turn this guy over and I'm going to place the steamer seam, which happens to be a quarter of an inch, just like our little marking on the wrong side, like so. And we are going to leave the backing on. So don't take off the little paper that's on the other, that's on the top now. Steamer seam is a product that you can get just about anywhere. I know they have it at Joanne, Amazon. I buy it in bulk like this because I use so much of it, but I'll have a link in the description box as to where you can get yours. All right, so place that on the right side. And we have cut our thing, I mean, drawn out our thing, cut our little bottoms. So now we are going to take our garment. This is the front of our shirt, dress, whatever it is that you're working on. And I placed my garment, the center of it, all along this red line here. So I have my own like printed on center front line. If you don't have one of those, just put a little snip where the center front is so you know where to place this guy. And you're going to place the placket to the wrong side of the garment. So turn this over. All right. And the right side of the placket, right side of the placket goes to the wrong side of the garment. And you're matching up this little line that you drew down the center, the one that has the triangle on the end. And you're matching that guy up to your garment. And I know this looks really strange to have the right side on the wrong side, but that is what it's supposed to look like. Next, you are going to go to your sewing machine and stitch all along this long line here, cut across this bottom line here, not the triangle, but you're going to box it in and then come back up and sew all along here. Okay. And just like that, I've got it sewn on. I did it with a contrasting thread so that you guys could see it better. Here's what it looks like from the right side. You just got your little box. Isn't that beautiful? Okay. So now you need to go to your ironing board and you're going to press this, press the lines into this. And I like to do this after I've got the box sewn on, because the box serves as kind of like an easy way, like an easy pressing line. But basically what you're going to do is turn all of these toward the center. So this side is going to come this way. And this side is going to come this way. You're going to press along this line, as well as this line, like so. Same over here. Press that guy in. And you're also going to press your steam-assim line in as well. So you're going to have one, you're going to have two, and then you're going to have three. And this is starting to give you an idea of how we're going to make a placket out of this. So head to your ironing board and press all of these toward the center. I'll show you what it looks like. Okay. So now you can kind of see the bit of the, it's not really an accordion, but all these folds that we made, this quarter inch one's being folded in. And then along every inch mark, there is a pressed in little fold, same for this side, like so. And now we need to do the very scary brave task of cutting through the fabric, all the layers, your main fabric, your dress fabric, and this little placket fabric. And we're cutting through this line here, as well as into the triangles. It's one of those just Hail Mary moments. I promise you it's going to work. Your garment is not going to be ruined, but every time it's, I don't know, my heart starts to like tense up. I just get so nervous that it's wrong, but it's not wrong. It is definitely right. So cut on through, and you're cutting to the tip of that triangle, and then come down and cut to the stitching, but not through it. And you can get some, I mean, these scissors are super sharp to the edge, but you can also use like embroidery scissors would be really good, like these itty bitty ones like this are also great for tasks like this. Again, cutting through all the layers into that little corner that you made with your stitching. Okay. Oh, it's done. All right. So next step is to sew the shoulder seams of your garment together because we're going to make this into a placket. And then we're going to be adding our binding and you need to have one full circle to apply the neckline binding. So I'm going to go stitch the shoulders together and I will be right back. All right. Shoulder seams are stitched. You can see them here did on my serger. All right. And now you've got this little number on the front of your garment. And this gets a little finicky. You'll be using your fingers a lot. But the idea is to pull one side out to the right side, fold along all your folds as well as the little bottom pieces. And I like to fold, I like you can trim this seam allowance down if you'd like. But I like to keep it the width that it is because it gives all of this a little bit of something to just hold on to in a way. But basically you're taking your triangle and all of the little half inch tabber doodles, you're pressing them all up and you're going to obviously do this with an iron. But I'm just doing it with my fingers so I can show you guys on camera, then I'll go do it at my iron and bring it back to you guys to show you the finished look. But you get all of that tucked up under there. And you get this so that it's just past that stitching line that you made, you're going to remove your steamer seam at this point, press it all back into place. And then when you press the steamer seam, it's going to hold all of this down like something like this. Like I said, it's a little finicky me trying to do it here. But you have something that looks like a tall placket like this with all of the folded edges along the bottom and then a folded edge along here. You're going to press it and the steamer seam will hold it into place. And then your next step is going to be to stitch all along this edge. And then you're going to make a box at the bottom with an X in the middle. And when you're done, it's going to look like this. Can you see how they're stitching along one side and then a box of the X in the bottom? That's what we're aiming for. Also, the left side is what's going to be on top. So keep that in mind. This is what this side is going to look like roughly. Hold on. Let me see if I can just sort of get all this into place. This goes in just a bunch of tucking and folding, tucking and folding. Okay, perfect. All right. And so now the left goes on top of the right. Anyways, you guys get the idea. The left's going to go on top of the right. And when you're done, you're going to have a placket that stands like this. Your button holes are going to go on the left side, this side, and your buttons are going to go on this side here. So let me take this over to the iron, get it all pressed, get the steam machine removed, and I'll even top stitch and do the little top stitching boxes. And I'll show you the set in place placket. And then we'll talk about buttons, how many were to put them and all that. All right, here she is. This is my finished placket. Isn't that gorgeous? I am honestly really proud of it. This is probably only, I don't know, maybe a handful. I've only ever done a handful of plackets before, whether it's on a sleeve or in a top or dress like this. So I am pretty, pretty pleased. So some tips for getting it done. One is for your interfacing for your fabric. Be sure to choose a very thin lightweight fabric and also a very thin, lightweight interfacing. If you choose something too stiff, it's just going to be very bulky down here. Speaking of bulky, in order to get this super, super flat, I use my Taylor's ham, no, my clapper, my Taylor's clapper. So you press this down with lots and lots of steam and then you hold the clapper on like the bulky part and the natural wood absorbs the moisture and the wood locks in the heat. So you're able to kind of really shmush it all down. Is that the second time I've used shmush? And get this little doodad to be as flat as possible. And then when you get to your sewing machine, you will want to grab your hump jumper. I got this whenever I was making jeans. I think it's also called a Gina Majig or something like that. But I'll have links for these two products in the description box for you guys. But basically the way the hump jumper works is you put it behind your presser foot and it keeps your presser foot level so that when you're starting to sew, it's not having to get over any hums. It's already nice and flat and just starts to stitch nice even stitches. So I felt like both of these things really, really helped get this done as nicely as possible. All right, so now let's talk buttons. I think that traditional Henleys are, the buttons are going to be pretty basic buttons. And you also want something relatively small. So this placket is one inch wide. So I wouldn't go any bigger than half an inch to be honest, unless you're really trying to make a statement with your buttons. I found these very basic plastic little like button down shirt buttons. I think you can get like six of them for a dollar or something. These are technically navy, but they do have kind of a gray tone to them, which is why I chose them. You are going to be five eighths of an inch below this because of your neck band. So just imagine that where the ruler is ending is where our finished neck band will be. So you really only have, you know, a couple of inches to work with depending on how long your Henleys is as well. So I chose three. I think that that's a good nice even amount. All right, so next up would be our neck band. I have mine here and you have either cut this out from your pattern pieces. If your top, if the neckline of your top was how you wanted it, then you have this cut out from a pattern piece from your pattern. If you have adjusted the neckline like I did, then you have measured and you have made your own pattern piece, which is what I did. Again, that'll be included in next week's Tuesday to where I show you how to redraft, reshape a neckline for a knit garment. So this will be included in that as well. But so I've gone ahead and pressed it wrong sides together. And then we are going to turn it just on the edges, right sides together. And then you can barely faintly see where I've traced in the littlest, slightest little curve. And I used the buttonfly guide also from Stitch Buzz, telling you guys she has lots of really great products that you just find yourself reaching for, for all kinds of different little tasks. So this is the most beautiful little round curve for your collar or your neckband that is going to go into the Henley. So you don't have it squared off. It'll be nicely rounded. So you just want to trace that on both sides, go to your sewing machine, sew you know, this little edge and flip it right side out. Okay, our neckband is rounded and pressed. Probably could do a slightly better job of that. I'll go back over there after I'm done. But you while you're over there pressing your rounded corners, go ahead and press your center back seam. It would be helpful to put a little pin there as well. So you know where the back is. And then my shoulder seams are marked. So I have that as well. If your neckline is relatively symmetrical, then you are just going to cut this into not cut, but you're going to divide this into quarters. And these will be closer to the front. But because my front neckline is so scooped, my front is a little bit longer than my back. So that's why I have shoulder seams. And it's not just an equal amount around everything. But here we go. Here's our garment with our neckline. And you're just simply going to take one edge and pin it. The seam allowance for the neckband is going to be one quarter of an inch, not five eighths like I originally thought. And then take where the pin is for the shoulder seam. Take that and put that at your shoulder seam like so. And then take your back side. This is the center back of the band. This is the center back of the garment. Match those two together. Same thing with the other shoulder seam. See we're just going around adding this band to our neckline. I'm just going to zip mine through the serger, makes really quick work of stuff like this. You could also do a zig-zag stitch on your regular sewing machine. And then you're going to come back around and attach the center front again. But because we have an open front, we're not sewing this in the round. You know what I mean? It's not one big circle band. It's actually opened. So when we lay this all back out, we should see that the band is smaller than the neckline, not by much, only by a little bit. That way it will pull the garment close to the body. You want the band to be a little bit smaller so it kind of pulls the garment closer to the body and you don't have that band that kind of flies away from you. So I'm going to head to the sewing machine, zip that on and then I'll show you what that looks like and that's going to be it for today's tutorial. And there we go. This is our, well obviously I have some threads to snip. This is our finished little Henley. I do feel like I need to add another button but there is no way I'm getting my button hole foot for my sewing machine over the hump of this surged seam here. There's just way, way, way too much bulk. So maybe I'll go in and put like a little snap there or something like that just to hold that closed. Also for what it's worth, like Henley's, you know, can be worn open, you know, that's like a really cute look. So I'll have to futz around with it as I get it all, that is on my nerves. As I get it all finished sewing, obviously I've got sleeves to add side seams to him and all of that. But I just wanted to show you how easy it was to make a Henley in a knit garment in a t-shirt and you know whatever knit pattern you've got using the Stitch Buzz Stretch Ruler as kind of like a guide and template. Also alongside the instructions that Claire at Stitch Buzz, so wonderfully put together for all of us, made it super, super simple. So I really hope you liked this tutorial. Let me know if you guys grab the Stretch Ruler. I do have a discount code for Stitch Buzz. So be sure to check the description box, get a link to her site, use the coupon code. It's good for all of her products. So if you wanted any of these things, you could get the, you could use the coupon code on any of them, which is really, really great and super generous. So go check out her site. Like I've been saying, I will be back next week with a tutorial on how to alter a neckline. So I went from this neckline here to this beautifully like scooped one here. And I'm going to show you exactly how to do that using the curvy ruler and the seam allowance ruler. Again, all from Stitch Buzz. She's got a lot of really great products there. So that's going to do it for me today. I will see you all very, very soon. Bye.