 Welcome everyone and I will remind everyone that the Farming Basics phone app, the first version is out, it was released just before the pandemic, and it's available to you 24 seven, a new improved version should come out in less than a month. We are beta testing right now the second version and that will give you a lot of communication tools. For example, calling David or any of the regional extension agents will be really easy through the app. The app will also connect you easily to our Facebook pages or IPM newsletter that I have been posting links to in the chat. So all those resources will be available to you. And Andre has the, you know, he's now leading the vegetable commercial as well as the conventional vegetable production program in the team. So you all feel free to reach out to Andre. He's great to work with an easy to get hold of so just wanted to give you those updates. I have posted some links to the IPM resources in the chat box and also on Facebook. I am shuttling between screens so let me make sure that I have it correct. But my information is on your screen right now. And again, the main channel we have on Facebook is Alabama extension commercial horticulture. That's where we archive most of our events and Harley Wallace manages those videos on there. We also have on aces.edu. We also have a digital archive. So if you type in digital archive on the search bar on aces.edu you will be able to find the page. Where we also keep virtual farm tour recordings. And now this research and various demonstrations are funded by many of the funding agencies that are on your screen. And those include several of the Alabama Department of Agriculture, especially crops block grants I just wanted to mention the funding sources and I hope that my screen will advance. Hopefully this is going forward. Perfect. So again, these are our team resources. And I'm going to go a little bit slow because I noticed us a lag here. But these are our free online resources. The album IPM newsletter. We have the farming basics online course which is a great introductory. Very good introductory course. It takes about four hours to do it. And of course the farming basics mobile app is available. We also have the album virtual farm tours and commercial horticulture webinar series that go parallel along with these extra events, like the vegetable school so look out for these so a lot going on here. If you don't have these please get hold of me or one of the re is or come to an extension event near you and grab the physical copies but we have the new vegetable handbook. Don't use the old ones try to get the new ones. We also have the revised organic vegetable IPM slide chart that is also co authored by Andre. And then we have the urban farm or the home garden IPM toolkit, which is a circular one that's something you can take to say home depot or the co op if you are shopping for insecticides. So there are lots of good resources here to start out about insects just a little bit about the basics of entomology and then we'll move on to the control part. And, but over the last few years we have seen tremendous increase in in trips. And Andre mentioned some of the varieties that are resistant to the tumor spotted build virus, but the Western flower trips is the one that you see very common. It seems to be active throughout the season and and it transmits the virus very easily. And we have some tests that we do in the lab to confirm whether you have the virus but the first approach to manage this insect is to get varieties that are resistant to the virus, because you don't need very many of the trips to infect the plants so you have to get good varieties caterpillars. It seems like we have a never ending supply of caterpillars in Alabama. And so you see on the top of your screen, the most common army worm species, the army worm sisters as I call it and the one that you see most active. The first one is beat army worm. It's typically followed by fall army worms, but last year 2021 fall army worms took the central stage so they stole all the attention of the other army worms but these will will invest tomatoes. Unfortunately, you will see multiple species they are easier to identify when they're larger. The young ones are very difficult to identify. So the coloration is more evident when they're older so as you can see these are the older caterpillars and you can tell the difference. We also have the usual suspects which is a corn ear worm or tomato fruit worm, horn worm that everybody loves or not, cabbage loopers and the soybean loopers. So those are some of your older or late stage problems in tomatoes. But these caterpillars are tremendous issues and they continue to be major problems in our crops, and especially in South Alabama if you're in south of I 85 this heavy incidents of these caterpillars, especially with overlapping generations. And just as a reminder that these caterpillars come from their mothers that lay eggs, and you're looking at some pictures of eggs and I'm, I put this slide because I get a lot of text pictures with eggs, and I'm expected to answer them accurately which is very difficult as you can see. If I put one of the pictures it's just almost impossible to tell which of the army worms, these are, they all look the same, but one thing you'll notice here is the army worms lay eggs in bunches in masses. And that's very critical and those, oftentimes those egg masses are covered with the body hair or the abdominal bristles from the female. So they look fluffy. So those are the classic army worm eggs and then horn worms, fruit worms and loopers, they lay single eggs. And you'll see I see the horn worm eggs very easily on leaf surfaces in my home garden. And these are very common. But again, these army worms are, you know, most of these pests are have a wide host range and that's the issue. They keep moving between crops. Army worm infestations often start out with feeding on the leaves. So that's the big picture on this on the right hand of your screen. With those leaves eaten out. If you don't manage those army worms on the leaves, they will move on to the fruits and they make these perfect round holes towards the top of the fruit. Those are the army worms. So they need to be controlled when they're on the leaves. And, and then avoid a late season outbreak, especially if you have crops in high tunnels. These army worms can spread fast through the high tunnels or, or any escapes in the greenhouses. The smaller insects that you may see are the aphid species. There are several aphid species that will feed on the on tomatoes and very common one is the potato aphid, which has multiple forms. Again, these aphids come in different colors. And a very good way would be to take good pictures with your phone and text it to David. And the way this works is all the tough questions go to David and the easy ones come to me. Now I'm kidding. You can text the pictures to multiple people and we'll try to get you an answer. But the important thing to remember is, if you look at the picture on the top right. We don't want to see that happen where the aphids have increased so bad that the leaves are curling. And that's pretty late and if you are organic producer home gardener. It's very difficult to control aphids at that late stage at the outbreak stage with the home garden or organic products. I'm still struggling to make a good organic recommendations. I have some recommendations to slow them down but they are difficult to control with just organic type products. So, and then also I have picture of the aphid mummies, which is the beneficial parasite. So if you see them. That's a good thing. So don't try to kill beneficials along with the pests. So just be careful with that. Now aphids and white flies, white flies are also these small flying insects they look like dust clouds. If you have a real bad outbreak, they look like dust clouds if you have seen it. It's very common to see it in ornamental plants, but it also in fast vegetables. And not only do these insects do direct damage the feeding, but they also produce honeydew which leads to sooty mold or blackening of the leaves. And if you are seeing a lot of this blackened leaves. That's pretty late stage because there's no, no way to reverse that blackened leaf. Sometimes the plant gets sicker. If you have the leaves turning black like that. It's very common to see this happen fast in greenhouses, where you can have infested transplants with aphids and then very quickly plants are turning black. So just watch out for these symptoms. And remember insects can damage directly or indirectly. And also we talked about viruses so all these insects can also transmit viruses that's an indirect injury or damage. And of course nobody loves these insects I'm sure which are the sting bugs and leaf footed bugs. And most almost 70-80% of our sting bug species are now the leaf footed bug which is marked with that orange star on your screen. So that leaf footed bugs and the brown sting bug are the two dominant species that we have. And there are several reasons why they're so bad and I have those listed on your slide. I'm not going to read all of them but these insects move between crops very effectively. They are fast flyers. They are also very good at avoiding treated areas and coming back later. And again natural enemies there are fewer of them or they are slow to control them. So taken together it's a perfect storm and that's why these leaf footed bugs have just exploded. And there's a pictures on the top from row crops to vegetable crops. They infest a variety of crops and also fruits. So these are just major pests and they are very difficult to control organically. I will tell you about one method here real quickly to kind of reduce their population. Spider mites, if it gets hot and dry or if you use too much pesticide, two ways you can get spider mites. If they're induced by pesticides you have a very nice crop of spider mites all across your field. If you, if this is induced by drought or some other environmental causes, they're usually clumps or areas of high spider mite activity. So you can almost tell difference how they were induced. There are lots of spider mite species. The dominant one is the two-spotted spider mite. These you cannot identify or they're sometimes very difficult to identify with naked eyes. You need a good hand lens or magnifying glass and then identify because there are several predatory mites that look like them. We don't want to kill those beneficial mites. So you have to be able to identify them. The other major identification feature is webbing. If you see a lot of webbing, which is pretty late, that means the outbreak has already happened, those are your pest species. But spider mites are induced by weather and pesticides. So remember that and they can again spread fast throughout a high tunnel if you have a high tunnel crop. And also these will jump between house plants. So again, same problem as of the other caterpillars and other species. So what is IPM? I always tell audience that you can forget my name, but don't forget IPM, Integrated Pest Management, which is mainly a decision management system. So you make decisions based on your observations and your experiences. And if your experiences could be different from mine and that's fine. But making a good judgment is important, whether you need to control the insects or not. And these are some of the steps to IPM. So insect detection and monitoring is the first. Insect identification, like I say, do not kill the beneficials. Population pressure, know when the insect is coming, know the life cycle of the insect. Economic threshold means when you should act. For example, if you have one aphid, you don't need to go out and wipe out the entire insect population. You can probably wait and see how the aphid, if the aphid even survives or it leaves the area. So knowing and recording is very important. Natural enemy activity, make sure you are protecting those natural enemies and pollinators. And then finally, making a treatment decision, and it's okay if you don't need to treat us. So not doing anything is also okay. But this, of course, doing good IPM takes practice and good record keeping. That's very important, even as a gardener. Now, just kind of showing you because we're talking about monitoring insect detection monitoring, we do insect monitoring programs statewide. And I know there's a lot of numbers on this slide. It's a very busy slide. But what I wanted to show you is, if you look at that column of 2021. Well, first off, you will see on the top of the screen, the various years and notice how we have cycled between wet to drought and wet. So see how this is all progressing. And we have data going back almost 10 years. Last year was extremely wet year. I had a hard time scouting my own crops in the field. And it was a perfect storm for the army worms. And I've marked those army worm populations. If you run your finger on the screen or and or just look at the numbers across. You'll see why army worms were so bad. The numbers are incredibly high last year, and that was an early warning system for us. And I sent almost five best alerts through the IPM newsletter, which I have linked to in the chat, alerting farmers and gardeners. So this is what's happening. This explains why we saw tremendous pressures. And of course squash wine borers. We typically see an early outbreak or early activity of wine borders, typically around March, February or March, late February or March. As it warms up, you may start seeing squash wine borers, but they were also incredibly high. So again, this just gives you a snapshot and the benefit of monitoring insects in the long term. And if you're interested, you can also buy these sticky traps for aphids and trips. And these work really well. If you have a greenhouse or a high tunnel in open field, sometimes dust becomes a problem. But these colors attract different insects. For example, aphids are very attracted to the yellows and trips are very attracted to the dark colors, like the blues. And then you can also trap flies on some of the deep colors. But there are some methods. If you're interested, you can call me and we can talk about more methods. But nothing replaces direct scouting. That's important. You have to look in the canopy. So again, just a reminder to stop, look and identify. Do not kill off the beneficial insects. So here are two string bug species. They look very similar. But once you put them under the microscope or if you have a magnifying lens, you can see that the beneficial insect, which has the letter A on your screen, that has a very thick stout beak or mouth. It's very, very thick. And what it does, it pinches the body of caterpillars and sucks the juice out. So it's a beneficial. Whereas the pest version is B and there the mouth part is very long and thin. And that's because that mouth is like a straw. It goes into the plants and they can suck the juice. So that makes them the pest. So learn to identify these and take good pictures if you can from top as well as a site profile that helps me to tell what these insects are. But just wanted to kind of mention that. Also, if you see these, now these are pictures from gardeners that come to me a lot. Use them. But if you see these horn worms infested with these cocoons of the wasp, leave them alone that caterpillar is going to die soon. And those parasites will go off and infest other caterpillars, including army worms. So these are beneficials that we need to protect. You can move them to different parts of the garden, even if you have a large garden and help them kind of disseminate on their own support them. Also, if you're using biological insects, insecticides or like BT, or if you if we see a lot of wet weather with lots of rain, you will see diseased insects like this horn worm that has pretty much dehydrated and died on the leaves. And that's induced by one of the bacteria is also fun fungi or I don't know how to pronounce it but fungi that also infest or infect insects. So those are also important. So we need to protect them. Now remember drought. If we get into a drought situation that really stresses the plant. And not only the plants but it also increases the life or increases the generations number of generations for insects and together drought can have a really serious effect on our crops. So just kind of a reminder that weather can affect your IPM plan. And that's an important aspect of good record keeping and using that information to develop your own plan. So just a few things that I mentioned the other thing that I have on the screen is when it's too hot and dry, you may see reduced effect of beneficial insects. So that's another issue and and the pest species take advantage of all this. So it's a perfect storm and droughts are really bad especially flash droughts are very bad for our crops, especially crops. When I talk about pest management. So shifting gears to management part. Are there any quick questions or is my voice coming through okay. Just a quick check David. Good. Okay. And yeah make sure I'm not able to monitor the chat at this point David but I'll let you make the list of questions I'm sure. But I just wanted to mention, I do have the new IPM slide charts. I think there are some with David and other ideas that you can get and that slide chart is your kind of your your beginning organic recommendation so that's not everything but that gives you some direction and if you're interested get one from David or email me and I can mail this out to you or grab them at an event, a future event, but there is the new version of the slide chart which is blue in color. But this is a kind of an overview of sustainable IPM practices. So there are three levels. So the first one is called systems based practices and that's pretty much what Andre covered he talked about variety selection. Sanitation and weed control make sure you are cleaning your field or garden between production seasons and then putting in your fresh crop otherwise insects can build up in the soil or in the environment. Weed control is very important. Of course, irrigation and water management that Andre mentioned any stress on the plant is going to make it worse and insects will find those weak plants so irrigation water management. Water management also is important. For example, if you are spraying, if you are used to spraying over the top with insecticides, don't sprinkle water over the top after spraying insecticide because it's going to wash away. So again you have to think about your irrigation system in my garden and in our farms, all our experiments we always have drip tape. I'm a big proponent of drip tape or any kind of metering device or delivery system you can use even soaker hoses just to avoid watering over the plants over the leaves. And then trap cropping that's something I'm going to mention trap cropping is very similar to companion planting that you may have read in magazines, but in companion planting, you are harvesting both crops the main crop and the companion plant. Whereas in trap crop the trap crop is actually a sacrificial crop and I'll show you example. And then level two IPM is best exclusion or mechanical removal and I actually have videos on the farming basics phone app that you can watch. There are several videos on the temporary and permanent exclusion systems. And I think the temporary system is very good for home gardeners, small farmers, urban farms. So that's a very, I think best exclusion has great promise, but you have to learn to do it correctly. Otherwise these systems can backfire on you. And then IPM level three are insecticides, for example conventional or bi-rational, whatever you choose. So the main idea is to prevent insecticide resistance so you have to rotate insecticides and then prevent pests like sparamites to become bad and that's best resurgence. While we are doing all this we have to protect natural enemies and pollinators so this is kind of a broad walkthrough of IPM. And you can think of any crop and this is how you can plan your IPM. So when I'm thinking about insect management, these are the three levels of best management. And you may not have answers to all of this for every insect. That's okay but think logically using this framework. So again, based on who you are, I have kind of organized my thoughts and how I teach IPM to make it bite size is if you are an open field producer and you're trying to be sustainable or organic, then you have plenty of space then you can use trap crops and bio insecticides as your major IPM plan. If you're a high tunnel producer, you can use something like a permanent exclusion system and you can see a picture on your screen. That's basically a high tunnel with a shade cloth around and this is part of an ongoing research that Andhra is helping me with. But physically blocks insects, these large insects. It does not block all insects or beneficials but it does bring down the moths and some of the large string bugs. And that's called a permanent system and then using bio insecticides. And if you're a market gardener home gardener small farmer with few rows of vegetables, then the temporary pest exclusion system which is the right of on your screen and integrating that with bio insecticides or biological control can work very well. Within the temporary system. There are the two other levels like the fixed frame system or the movable system and I do an entire talk on just exclusion system and you can see some of the videos I have done that give you kind of a quick overview of these but there is a lot to learn here. So today I'm going to focus on the trap crop and insecticides. So let's talk about trap cropping and essentially there are several publications that I have online. They're also in multiple languages. But there is one that I refer to quite often is the shared publication, which is one of our funding agency. But basically how we came across this trap cropping is, you know, if you give, so you're looking at a lab, no choice test in the lab, and you are seeing these leaf fruit bugs and most of the time they are mating. And they aggregate in large numbers and totally destroy the quality of the fruit. But if you give them tomato, they will just jump to it, as you know, and they also love beans. There are they also love fruit crops, you name it, they're on it so this is a no choice test where obviously they had nothing else but tomatoes so they love the tomatoes. But as soon as you give it something like the NK 300 sorghum, which is a very unique variety that we we developed or not, we didn't develop it's a old solid sorghum. But that NK 300 through student research we found that this variety who has incredible properties of attracting leaf fruit bugs. And in this picture when we offer a choice, the leaf fruit bugs prefer to stay on that sorghum. And that's the sorghum head which is very attractive to them. And there's like one poor guy over there in the corner of the screen on the tomato. So, really amazing to see that and that we took this kind of studies and develop our field demonstrations as as we have done plenty of student research on this. To show you some practical applications. If you have the space, this can be done and this is a, you're looking at the sunflower and sorghum system of perimeter trap crop. So they are called perimeter because you have these rows of sorghum and sunflower on the outside, these trap crops are planted, typically two to three weeks ahead of the main crop, and that's important. Because you want your trap crop to be attractive to these insects. So the sunflower is a 50 day crop sorghum is a 100 day crop, and we plant them two weeks ahead on the same day on the outside rows. And the sunflowers on the outside because it blooms early, and it attracts those leaf fruit bugs in big numbers. But because we have pollinators, we do not spray them, we do not kill or take any action, we let those sunflowers to kind of wither and die. And those leaf fruit bugs move on to the sorghum. It's really remarkable to see this system work in the field, and we do it very religiously in our, in our research plots. All our research plots are mostly trap crop. But when they move into the sorghum, that's where you can kill them. And that's a attract and kill strategy. So it's really remarkable to see this in, in action. Here's another view of this plot. So now you can see the sorghum, I can see how close it is to the tomatoes. And it draws out the leaf fruit bugs. In a, if it's not too high, the pressure is not too terrible, then it does a really good job of drawing out the leaf fruit bugs, and also brown sting bugs. We also have found it effective against brown marmorated sting bug, which is a, which is the invasive insect. It's really amazing to see this, this push-pull system in effect. So, and you're looking at a pretty sizable tomato planting here. Lots of benefits of trap crops. For example, attracting pollinators, which you all will love. And I'm a big proponent of having these pollinators, we need to save them. And our trap crop actually helps to bring some ecosystem diversity. We also have additional food for these pollinators, beneficial insects. So sunflower trap crop is a really great, and this is the pereodobic type sunflowers. It has a big head. And also a number of natural enemies. In fact, I have done classes of natural enemy identification in my trap crops. They are these natural enemies are, are all over in the trap crops. For example, the spiders, which I have marked with the orange arrow on the top left. The green link spiders really remarkable. They will feed and they will catch these adult leaflet bugs and feed on them. Syrphid flies are also very attracted to the sorghum leaves. And they feed on small caterpillars, aphids. We also have a tachinid fly, which is a picture on the right with the red arrow. That tachinid fly will lay eggs on the head of the leaflet bugs, and eventually the parasite will kill that leaflet bug. Almost 50, 60% of leaflet bugs in trap crop are infested with it. And then you can see predators like the assassin bug and the praying mantises. So again, it's a really remarkable to see the effect of trap crop. And plus we are spraying reduced or spraying. So that directly benefits natural enemy populations. So it's a big learning curve as an entomologist, even for me. And we're doing it very religiously now. Just to show some quick numbers. I know this is kind of an overwhelming slide. But what is going on here is, if you look at the red and the blue line on your screen. These are the trap crops. So you have the first flush of leaflet bugs on the sunflower, which is the red line. And then the next one is the flush of leaflet bugs on sorghum. The point is, as long as you have good trap crop, you have very low number of leaflet bugs on the main crop, which is tomato. The thing is, you have to plant the trap crop within a distance. You cannot expect miracles and plant your tomato half a mile away, or plant your trap crops so far away that there's essentially no effect. So there are limitations to trap cropping, but it is a very feasible and it works to bring the threshold down so that you can manage and live with the other insects and kind of manage the rest. So it's really something that we have learned over the years doing it. We have also found out that you can stagger those trap crops. So you can plant multiple rows of trap crops, especially like in drought. So essentially, these are like feeding the insects and keeping them busy. And you can plant extra rows of the trap crop and move them away and move the insect away from the main crop. So you're looking at the multiple layers of trap cropping here. Now again, the drawback is this will take up space, but it is really remarkable if you have the space, this is well worth the effort. And this is just to show you again, when you stagger plant the trap crops, as long as you have good trap crop standing, you have far fewer numbers of leaflet bugs on your tomato. So it's not foolproof, but it reduces your fight. So, and just to show you pictures, here you're looking at the picture of tomato if you don't do anything in Alabama. So obviously, if you don't use trap crop, you don't spray your chemicals or organic, you have a really bad crop. So, and you're looking at live caterpillars with those arrows in the picture. So it's really infested and really terrible looking with lots of stink bug leaflet bug feeding. But if you do things right and practice IPM, this is what your crop could look like. So now you're looking at the tomatoes with trap crop plus BT, which is one of the biologicals on the left. And then trap crop or chemical and using a chemical, you can see you have almost similar effect when you do it right. So again, the point is, you have to plan for these things cannot happen unplanned. So you have to have the products at hand, you have to plan the trap crop. So there is more steps involved. And that's where it takes more time to plan this. So, but you can get in a good environment in a good planned environment, you can get good results. And farmers are using trap crops very creatively. Here's a producer in North Alabama that actually use trap crops. So, trap crop or sunflower as an attraction to attract bypassers down the road, and they would buy the stock, the sunflower stock and take it, not knowing that it's actually a functioning sunflower was the actual trap crop. So, there are some really creative ways farmers have done these different ways. So, we are all still learning how to best utilize it. David is my connection still okay because I just got a warning here that says that I have a low bandwidth. Everything's good on my end. Okay. All right, I'll try to finish here quickly. Ancient closer here. So again, this is a pretty dense slide. I really covered most of these things in my discussion that you know you have to try to develop site specific IPM plan, you know, ideally, don't go more than 10 to 15% in trap crop. If you do more in trap crop you'll be spending a lot more time and will cut to your, your, your actual production area trap pressure be planted on good ground, and make sure you have a good stand. Otherwise, what's the point. Let me just use some other methods. But in real world, we have actually worked out some of the differences it makes in terms of cost. And one of the products we used to spray which was a very expensive pesticide, we have stopped it, it was about $50 per acre pesticide. We have completely stopped using it because we have a trap crop standing, and I can kill liver bugs in the trap for if I want to, with a much lower cost pesticide on the sorghum, not the sunflower on the sorghum and really cut back on the use of insecticide. I'm not spraying the tomatoes as often. You can watch the videos that are online, you'll find them on our YouTube channel, Alabama beginning farmer channel and take a look. Quickly about insecticides. I don't think there's very many people on this call that have or use conventional insecticides. But if you do, please give me a call separately. We have about 28 different classes of insecticides. So it's a really complicated world out there with chemicals, but they essentially group into these four or five major categories. And majority of our conventional insecticides are insect nerve and muscle, have insect nerve or muscle action. And the good thing about these insecticides is these are conventionals is they're becoming more and more selective. So if you look at the handbook, it's on page 160 I believe on the 2022 version of the handbook. There's a long list of pesticides and the ones that are at the bottom are much more selective insecticides, which means that they will do least harm to beneficial insects. They will do least harm to the applicator. So these are much selective insecticide and they're much safer to use. So again remember no product is absolutely safe. And don't be careful, no matter whether you use organic or chemical insecticides, they can both be very harmful to environment if they're used recklessly. But this is just to kind of show you quickly what are some of the conventional ones. I think you'll like the next slide, which is this one. This is the organic insecticide list that I have developed over the years and I keep working on it. And in fact I spend a lot of time today to work on this again. But there are about four different types of organic insecticides, whether you're a home gardener or whoever. There are the physical poisons, which is on the top, you'll recognize kaolin clay or DE, diatomaceous earth. These are very popular products, you can buy them at your local co-op. Most of your organic insecticides for home gardeners or small farmers if you're going to the co-op, those belong to the contact action, which is the second column or second row there, which includes your horticultural oils, neem, a lot of people like neem, make sure you're buying neem with azate rectin, which is the active ingredient. The organic or pyrithrin is very popular, insect cell soap. And remember this insect cell soap that I've listed, this is not your dawn detergent. Dawn detergent can burn your plant, not this insect cell soaps. Just be careful. We also have a lot of the microbial products listed and these are mostly contact poisons. We have Bt, which is dipel or xantari, the other one that you will see, very common at home depot is called thuricide. These are all Bt's bacteria, it's a bacteria, and that's very popular among gardeners and small farmers. It works great, but you have to apply it before an outbreak. Most of these insecticide you see on the screen, you have to apply it before an outbreak. Many products are very difficult, really they really struggle if you already have an outbreak of insects. And there's some volatile products that I don't do much testing on. I have tested the peppermint soap, which is on the bottom of the screen. One of the things with soaps and oils is if you have a drought situation and the temperature is very high, you can burn your plants. Be very careful, look at the weather, read the label, and then spray. And then you have some insecticide baits, for example, for slugs and ants, and I get those questions all the time so I put this slide together so you get your answer in one shot. So again, this will be recorded so you can always come back and watch the recording on our website or Facebook. So this one, let's go to this one. People ask me where do you get these insecticides, okay. So I have mentioned some of the places where you can pick up these insecticides. I think making friends with the farmers cooperatives is very good. If you have local nurseries, if you have a local nursery, you can get products and you can also buy some good sprayers. Make sure you check your sprayers, repair the nozzles or change the nozzles every year. If you're using some of these organic products, they are very abrasive. They can really destroy your nozzle very quickly. So and make sure you're calibrating your sprayers. We have a brand new calibration video on our is on our YouTube page that you can use. And it's very informative video. You can also buy organic products, home garden products online. But I have some reminders that always check the expiry of these products. If you're buying them online and check the product label, make sure the label is not torn store the products in original bottle. Don't try to put your insecticide in shampoo containers for easy use. Keep them in the original container and always keep these pesticides away from direct sunlight and use these products immediately after you mix them. Don't store them. Don't mix them today and spray tomorrow because these products get activated, especially the microbial, they get activated by once you mix them. So use them immediately. This is my last slide. And again, I just want to thank you for this for your patience. Thank you to David for organizing this. I hope some something good comes out of this. But just some general reminders that, you know, you have to scout and look in the crop. There's no shortcut to scouting and take good pictures, send them to us. We'll try to identify as fast as we can. Pest prevention is better than cure. For example, trap crop and exclusion system. Those are your best prevention strategies. And those should be tried before you use insecticides. Manage insects when the numbers are small or low, they're low numbers or the caterpillars are small. Don't let the caterpillars be big because then these organic products, even the conventional products, they struggle. Protect natural enemies. That's always the case. And try to integrate these multiple methods into one IPM tactic or strategy and keep good records. I think that's very important.