 Hola woodworkers, Paul Croson here, small workshop guy. Today's video is about building this cross-cut sled. It is designed to use the match fit dovetail clamp tune. If you haven't subscribed to my channel, I'd appreciate it if you do so and I'd love it if you leave some comments and some likes and maybe even share this puppy with some of your woodworking friends. My goal in this sled was to have a fairly large one, but yet a very light one. So the first thing I did was measure or weigh the components so that I would know what I was starting with. So I took three-quarter inch birch plywood and started laminating together the front and back fences and then using my saw stallions, I started cutting out some of the unneeded parts of the sled which were the corners. They're really not needed to support any work. You got the middle of the sled to do that. I started by off-camera putting in two dovetail slots at an angle and what I'm demonstrating here as these match fit clamps, you can take off a little holding piece on the top and turn the clamp around and then you can have the hold down piece be further than your slot. I have some more slots to put in there so I'm putting on these bench saddles from Lee Valley hardware and that allows me to put a temporary sacrificial fence up on top of my work bench so I can do some cutting and stuff without damaging my samurai carpenter workbench. And this is one of my track guides that I built using the match fit dovetail clamp system and so I'm using that to do some more slots. So here you can see I'm already using the match fit clamps in the grooves to hold down my track and then using my router to cut some more dovetail. I'm on the table saw doing an initial cut on the back and front fences to cut them down to two and a half inches tall in order to remove excess wood and lighten up the total load. So we'll see a 10 glue first in order to put down the far fence and then when that's all set turn it over do some countersink holes and drill some screws in there to hold that securely. The alignment of that fence is not important at all. So now we're going to use the William Ng five-cut method unfortunately we're going to use it several times in order to get the critical fence aligned. That's the one that we want to be 90 degrees to the saw blade and the table saw fence. We're going to start by anchoring one corner of the fence to the sled. We need to use countersink drill bits so that the screws do not protrude from the bottom. We temporarily align the back fence using a t-square and then we put in a screw. We clamped it first so it wouldn't move. Once that's imposition we cut all the way through the sled. Now it's time for the William Ng five-cut method to measure how precisely the fence has been set. I write on one side of the board one and five and then I write two three and four on the other sides and then I cut them in that order. When I do the fifth cut I make it a little bit larger so that I can measure things. I make a note of what was the top and what was the bottom. I use the calipers and I do a precise measurement. I compare those measurements, subtract the difference, divide that by four, divide that by the length of the fifth cut and then multiply that times the distance from the one end of the fence to the other. Did you follow all that? We'll put a link to the William Ng video so that you can see exactly how this is all done. I clamp a piece of wood that has a point on it to the existing fence and then I use a feeler gauge to adjust the fence in this case back toward the garage door by the distance I think I need and then I secure it with a new screw and then I do another five-cut method. Did the same measuring, it still wasn't there so calculated how much I needed to move it again, put that pointed stick there, move my fence back by that amount, re-screwed it and now doing my final cut. I know that a little quick but again watch the William Ng famous video. So here's my hopefully final cut so I didn't show you all the cuts but I did the five cuts, did my measuring here, I got my fingers crossed hoping things are going to work out and let me take you through the math a little bit more slowly that's involved when I get to that section, admiring my result. So here's again a summary of how it works. I take that cut off board that I had marked the top and the bottom and I put the measurement for the top down there, I put the measurements for the bottom there, I subtract the difference and then I divide that by four which because I did four sides and get a measurement then I divide that by the length of this piece of wood to get my basically my error rate per inch and I got a result of .00025 and so if I multiply that times 10 inches that would be an error of two thousandths over a 10 inch and that's good enough for the kind of work that I do so happy with the way that it is. Now I'm going to just secure it with some screws obviously countersink so that they don't scrape on your table top. The scrap wood that I grabbed in order to make this sled I already had a couple holes in it, in fact it's had about six. I got rid of most of them when I cut off the the wings here in order to make this light. I cut these down to make it as light as possible and I decided to drill all those holes because I already have some holes in it to see if that would also lighten it up. I measured it, I weighed it before the holes and after the holes and they made almost zero difference so I decided not to continue with that process because I didn't want to weaken the integrity of the plywood. So anyway that's what they are originally for. They are now just something to make it unique as compared to anybody else's. When you do your woodworking you want to do things that are a little bit unique not just a total copy of somebody else. Small Workshop Guy, signing off.