 Okay, so today we're working on a milk cooler here. This is a pressure differential type milk cooler made by Delfield It just keeps the milk cold works off the pressure temperature Relationship there not a thermostat anyhow got here because the milk was 67 degrees this morning. I get here check my filter It's a little bit lightly coated. I've worked on this a while back Just had to make some adjustments to the pressure switch. I get here They had it off which they're their maintenance guy and their friends and He's trained them to turn things off when it don't work. So I let it run Kicked it on you can hear the fan come on It's running there but my pressures didn't drop it sounds like we got a Start component that possibly is bad or we've got a compressor. It's seized up Let's see if we can get this thing out. It's not the greatest accessibility here But let's see if we can get it out of there and get something going It is filter media, which helps out when it hits the whole condenser coil not just some of it So we get some of these bolts out they they bolted it in there like it's gonna go through multiple hurricanes and everything else Probably got it on this other side to do that. Yeah, looks like it. Well, they really We're afraid it's gonna come out of there. So hopefully we can get this out of there get to those start components It's gonna get this thing I'm plugged so we don't get I'll let you're cuted Put that back on see if it's dead And it's not running. So I must have got it. Good Let's move all of our goodies here to the side See if we can Get this thing out Nope today I Cut in somewhere else. Yep one more screw way back over in that corner. God bless them Well, you would think it wasn't made in America because why in the world would you design this so that you only have enough Wire because you know why are so expensive that you can't pull it out Why even make it so you can remove it? Why don't you just make us have to undo the whole thing and pull the refrigerant charge So apparently they were in such a hurry they used this quick push together type connections They don't have a nut on it. So you're not even gonna screw that and take the nut out You're literally gonna have to unscrew unthread the Armor off of it, which doesn't really want to turn much to get it out of there unless there's a better way to get those Pins to release. We'll get it out of there. Just why why why? Bitchin yeah, bitchin because it's a shitty design I only got it out of there screwed the armor crap up a little bit, but at least I got those pop art freakin connectors Seems like we can get this thing out of there now. It's kind of Quite the contraption we got going on here. I don't know why they wouldn't have moved the electrical over to this side It would have made more sense Ignorance engineer Example of an engineer straight out of school doesn't have a clue But it made more sense to put that right there where you could have gotten to it a lot more sense Got our capacitor over here See if we can get into that. We'll check the Value on it see how it's doing. We have to do some real digging to get that off there We have 244 like our fair out on that and it's rated for 244 to 292 so it's good So that leaves us down to the start relay or just a start a stuck compressor This is where I'll pull any out and get on it and see what we got see if it works It's where it makes it really easy because I can just plug in over there at one of those other spots and Test it out and just isolate all this and then if it works great We could throw a three-in-one on there, but to wire three-in-one, you know when I don't need to to me It's just a lot more work. It's a dead compressor to wire it up. So let's go ahead and get over here See if we can get this panel off the compressor so we got them out of there You can see I'll tight that one blue wire is there Let's go ahead and make sure What we got here so we got Wow Comment at the top and start and run at the bottom start to run I Put that direction start to run All right, let's grab any you guys have seen this before Old technology, but all it is is a switch that Brings in your built-in capacitor to me. It's just easy. I can pick whatever capacitor I want This is the 200 something so I go in the center. I want to follow my meter there I got high and low leave that on high Bolt meter usually it's 120 volt It also has a step-up transformer in it so that if you wanted to test the potential relays You can test those and it had resistance on here. You got to remember when this was built They didn't have amp meter or meters that had all that crap built into it This was pretty cool state-of-the-art thing and this is one of the more deluxe models There's cheapies out there that had just the start part only and then you got to start cord Which I built and I don't ever use just because this is so much easier times worry about a capacitor getting shorted and everything else We got looked in down there Get our amp meter on high voltage shows you ever fall at the bottom one there 110 it's not the most accurate obviously not true RMS or anything like that We push down on our stir bun It's gonna put the start capacitor in the circuit and then when I flip it on I wait for a second I release takes it out of the circuit and then we just see what we've got for our amp for all We got our wires all hooked up on there. Everything looks good there. See what happens here. What's the amp meter? Here we go Started right up We're pulling It's five amps Your amps are on bottom micro farads are on top seal its compound gauge. So it's running You can come in here and see how accurate that is off of black 4.3 4.4 and it's reading This amount of five that's pretty pretty good for an old meter like this. This thing's got to be somewhere from the 80s Picked up on eBay Thing was a mint condition. The only thing I damaged on it was this I you got so many operations if you're not careful you can cause a back fee because these things are doing different different types of tests Because literally most of them cannot check capacitors start relays and all that other crap It it's got so many different things in there that it can do But we went ahead and done it Kind of discharge it all there which these have start pastors with relays on or with resistors on them to bleed them down That's a potentiometer there to vary your voltage. This literally will output a 400 and some almost 500 volts. It's got a step-up transformer in here to test out those potential relays I never use it, but you could literally Check it and see if it's open and closing where you're thinking it's supposed to if you have the specs on it Old technology, but it's really what's really changed over the years You got a capacitor. It's in a start circuit and it's removed whether it's by current or whether it's by voltage Not rocket science here. Anyhow the cap the compressor works We need a new start relay. It looks like does the capacitor test it out fine And the system ran at this point We need to get new start components for it Whether or not I get them now or come back with them is going to be the question Or I can put a 3-in-1 on there if I wire up a 3-in-1 You got to get power to the compressor Then you got to get power to the fan separately and then you're wiring all these things kind of a hassle With the way they've got this is such a pain in the butt I did a video on this you guys. I'll put a link at the top or down below Along with links to everything else But all the instructions how to test it and there's all the wiring for it All right, so we've got our new start components here Hopefully the capacitor will fit in there Looks like it's about the exact same size as the other one That's only downside of getting an aftermarket for that Otherwise we went ahead and got the protector and the current relay Let's go get this done Finally got all that back in there One of the things they always say is if you can shake this and you can hear it rattling. It's probably fine Cannot hear it at all that was the problem We found that out without shaking it but you can't always go by that 100% Inside there's just a piece of metal that gets pulled up Pulls it out of the circuit and opens the circuit so the capacitor won't blow up This one here is a little shorter But at least the top matches it So I'm gonna see if I can't squeeze this down a little bit make it fit If not, I'll have to put a wire tie on it to hold it in place We were able to get that to hold in there and it's firm So the trick to these is use your rotate that thing so it'll Screw right on there Now we can get some of these wires to plug back into their little spot and we should be able to kick it back on We got it all bolted back in there at least one anyhow. I'm not gonna put 50 of them in there like they did And let's see if we can't make this fit right so it actually covers the whole coil That actually fits better that way and I've washed it out even though it's really not washable But we got it. So let's poke that thing through there We got our pin there and it covers the whole coil That thing that'll keep it in place Get that back up there and let's go ahead and kick it on first to see if it runs Helps if you plug it in Oh, look at that Sweet Now as it doesn't go into a deep pump down, we should be fairly okay Let's give this a few minutes to kind of stabilize. This is a Cold rail style system. So there's no fan movement and so the pressures are a little different than normal But it will start to frost up the side walls there and stuff This might be why it took out the start components. It's gonna wrap its cycle Could be low on refrigerant Could be just because it's not A box temp but you would figure if it was not a box temperature It would keep on running So it would not surprise me if it's a little low Like to scan it and if there's nothing in the condenser leaking It's probably in the rails and there's gonna be a whole lot we can do with it Yep, they're just kicked on again. So there's probably what's really going on It's a 134a system and holds 16 ounces. It's probably just slightly low Let's go ahead and pull the refrigerant out weigh it in and see where we're at We just scanned the whole thing over and we got nothing down in here But once I ripped that open right there, it went berserco Now that it's aired out It's not going off even when it's up there in that area where I think it's leaking at in the rail side So it's a very small concentration that just accumulated Nothing in there pride apart the The armor flex there on the txv and all through here, and I'm getting nothing at all But she she went kind of crazy up here in the spot here Everything in the walls is stainless steel and kind of expand a foamed inside there So you're not going to be able to do anything with it in the past the factories told us to cap off one of them And then go ahead and pressurize it and see if it loses pressure If it does then obviously it's leaking and kind of go from there But the cost of these freeze coolers they're they're not going to replace it when they can just add You know 20 dollars 30 dollars with the refrigerant plus a service call and it may last a year or two It's just not going to happen So anyhow, let's go ahead and get this thing recovered and weigh it back in We've got 16 ounces in there running right at about 35 pound suction It's staying on hasn't cycled off yet I'm going to get a hold of their maintenance guy and let him know what's going on I believe this was low once before I don't know how many how long ago it was if it was a year or two ago or what I had worked on it And adjusted the pressure switches and stuff on it And after that we were good to go have a feeling that it's probably about every two years maybe possibly Maybe a little bit more That it goes low. So they're going to have to decide whether they want to Verify for sure that this is going to need chopped apart and do the pressure test or just plan on buying a new one Unfortunately, they're generally any more nowadays everything to throw away society as you'll notice here in a little bit The sides will start to freeze up, which I think we see one right there. Yeah Yep, you can see it right there And you can see it starting to happen over there and you can see it happening over there So it's starting to freeze down just like it's supposed to Nothing in just pure cold wall Let that run over the weekend today's friday. So it won't uh Won't be used We're running right in about 33 now So 33 let's convert that over and see what that is for her 134a Well, actually usually 34a real close to the pressure. It's about 33 degrees Pretty much right in there what you'd normally want. It just helps to know what originally were that was a little something how to look up So here's that start relay as you can see it's nothing but a coil of wires the power to the compressors right in line with it so it comes in here it goes out there as the amperage increases it pulls the Switch mechanism here gets sucked up and that opens it up and then opens the circuit takes the capacitor out of it and as we look at it here You can see it. It's all burnt there's the Contact points right there And that's how it comes in and out of the circuit right there Yep goes in and out That's the way the cook crumble That's going to wrap this video up guys. Hopefully you enjoyed it If you haven't already please consider subscribing check us out on instagram and facebook and until next time We'll catch you guys on the next one later