 So you can tell everybody what you're doing. Tax in the bottom, your tabletop. You don't have to put it in. So it doesn't stick to whatever it is that it's sitting on. Yeah. It'll drip off, and it'll really stick to whatever it is under it. And it's easier to pick up and tilt if you have a little look under it. I was gonna, should I put it down? The safety pins, push pins. Push pins. For sure. Or if you don't, it looks like this, and it's hard to get your hand under it without messing up your edges, and it will definitely bond with it. I really do, so I'm kinda nervous about it, and we're gonna see if it works out. We're gonna learn together, shall we? We shall. Pro tip, use double layer of gloves so you can take one off when you wanna pick up some of your plug-inables. That's not a word. That's not a word. Like our, this, our torch has been resined to its, it doesn't come on anymore. It's waste. It won't, I wonder if I just hit it to the ground. No, because it's just done, because it's resined together. So if you do all your things and you take your top layer of gloves off, and you have a fresh glove to use your torch or your heat gun or, what's that I think we use? Blow dryer. Blow dryer. So yeah. Or your phone, or your laptop, or your camera. All the things. Virotex Lite, they were out of the large boxes at our neighborhood, Hobby Lobby, so they're little mini boxes, just like this. Make sure there's no debris in your resin apparatus, because then it'll get on your piece, and then you get to pick it out. And it will probably most likely mess up whatever it is that you just did. And it'll always happen on the part that you like the most. We're using one of these that tells us how many parts we're pouring, it makes life easier. We use the push pins. Make sure that they go in between where the wood meets. Well, a lot easier to push in, take out, and it's away from the edge, so you can scrape the edges. Excess. Yep. Go ahead and push them all the way in. That way, you're sure that you have a level surface, because it's super important that it's level. It is not level, all your resin will rush to the lowest point, because it is liquid, and that's what liquid likes to do. So everything that you did will run off and adjust. Also, today we're doing a dip tick. If you don't know what that is, super simple. It's two canvases that are one painting that we have, this larger one, and nine by 12. I'm not really sure this is nine by. We're just gonna make this whole thing. What is that, 16 ounces? Gamershine. Mix it, two to three minutes. Everybody says three minutes, but it's just mix it. Scoop the sides, the bottom. It gives tiring, but some people use power tool, but they just have more bubbles to work out, which is fine, because a torch or heat gun will take care of all the little bubbles. The most important thing is make sure it's mixed fairly together, because if you don't, sticky spots, that will never, and it's super frustrating, because then you have to either throw the piece away, or you have to scrape that off. That leaves a weird spot, and re-pour it. Our Instagram account, because she wanted to know how much flow trawl to add into a resin piece, and I'm gonna let you know this horrible idea. We use flow trawl for our acrylic pours, but don't use it in your resin pours, because you're only gonna make a mess for yourself. It won't work. And also, they had another problem where I think they just added too much paint, because she ended up with a frothy, chunky pour. It's hard to explain, but I think the problem is, that she added too much acrylic paint. I don't know that you can add too much ink, I'm sure you can, but it's harder to do. But with acrylics, you have to be very careful, because they're thicker, and it'll change the scientific makeup of your resin. It's science on all levels, I'm sure. I don't know the science, but I know that if you add too much, it's gonna change how it sets, and you don't wanna go there. We are gonna use some fun colors today. Everything that we're using today is acrylic. As far as the colors. I think they're all medium body acrylics. But this one is by Art District. It's just a regular titanium. And we're also using, the rest of these are Amsterdam. This color is a mystery. Sky blue. There's so many names on here for this one. It's number 551. The one you just used? Number 557. The green is awesome. The green is very opaque. There he used to get it. I know. The purple is number 568. You can use this teal yet. It's number 522, which is a very vibrant color. And then the green is not by Amsterdam. It is by Mural Paint Marker Company, and the color is volatile organic compound. Number 2178. No, it's called Slime, which is way more appropriate than what I first said. It's this color, and the bottle looks like this. We got this at a local art shop called Aisle. Aisle, this is Aisle, right? I haven't seen anything like this at a Hobby Lobby or Michael's or Joanne's. You can probably order it online, but. It's good paint. If you want more information on these paints, just message us below. Message us below. Comment below or send us a message. I always put the resin in the cups first. That way I know how much pigment I need for the amount of resin I've chosen to use per color. Make sure you mix, especially with acrylics, your, look how fun that looks. By fun, I mean creepy. Mix your pigments in super well, because if you don't, you'll also have problems with the resin setting properly. You'll end up with chunks of paint in and amongst your resin. And that's not fun, because it will also set differently. And it may set matte instead of the super gloss that the resin is. How opaque do you want your white? You can still see through it. This is the first time you guys are going through this, but that's for the first time as well. So this is gonna be our first negative space. Negative pour and dirty cup negative. I guess it doesn't have to be super opaque because this is white. Should we use just a little cup? Yeah, because you can always mix in more color. You cannot take it out. So it just makes a little out of time until you get. Yeah, but what's gonna be interesting with this is, it doesn't mix like acrylic paint when you mix them together. The color is not the color in the resin. Let's get there closer, should we get them closer? What we're doing is just gonna put you all closer. From light to dark. I want this to be completely white on the outside. It's very crazy looking. So now we wanna do white? Yeah, what I'm trying to accomplish is to just all negative space here. We don't want any color out here. That's what the goal is. We'll see if that ends up happening that way. What normally happens is what resin wants to happen. That's how resin rolls, does what it wants. When you're working with this much white resin, you need to make sure that your gloves don't have any of the pigments from when you mix your colors in because obviously when you touch your white resin areas it's going to transfer some of the color. So that's why we're doing as far away from where we pour the color parts first. Did you put orange in there? Nope. Huh. We're just together without them. We're just gonna put them in there. I guess we can do the air gun or the hairdryer. I think we need to just pour some clear in that little gap in. Because the clear's gonna show as white anyways. Or we can just line it with some color. Yeah, and you have plenty of colors. So the heat gun's gonna do more than one thing. It's gonna pop the little bubbles that are in the resin that we mixed in from making sure the two parts are thoroughly mixed together. And it's also going to help us to make sure that the two parts of resin are overlaying on each other. And this is what gives us cells and lacing and things like that. You wanna blow it or you wanna just tilt it? I think we should blow it. Be cautious when you're using any kind of heat that you don't leave it in one spot for too long. Because then you'll scorch your resin in odd portion of your heat. Not really, that's not good. And the heat also, if it's starting to set after a couple of minutes, it also reactivates it. This time you can go through and see if there's any raw patches or air bubbles or if the blow dryer put anything into your piece that you don't want there. Smooth these. Where's it gonna go? It's set, so you can put the heat reactivated. It gets hot, so it'll sit in there, it'll set up. It's really easier to work with, time frame stuff. Try to do the gold spray paint thing. That's what I wanna do. So you're gonna dirty pour these or? I think we should just do it. Time ever trying this. It looks like gold leaf. It's wet, like this top part is the gold. Pumping out.